I have a few oil leaks and my bike is in a huge need of an oil change. I wont know what parts on the filter system I will need to replace until I remove the filter, unfortunately parts will take as long as priority mail will get them across the country (3-4 days) is it bad that the bike sit w/o oil for this long? Obviously I won't be running it.

as far as oil leaks... I know 2 leaks...the cam cover and the Tach (the housing parts closest to the engine) The cam cover is likely due to a cracked gasket, which I will replace, but I don't know what to do with the tachometer to fix the leak.

one last Q: the clear oil level indicator, on the crankcase is cloudy, i have no idea how much oil is in there now. This isn't a big problem since it will all be drained, but what about in the future? possible solutions for this? other ways to check oil level?

The Cam Cover leak will go-away after you replace the Gasket and get the new Gasket to seat.
Provided ... that ...
The Rubber Donuts on the Hold-down fasteners aren't worn-out.

The Tack leak is all too common.
Everybody with a mechanical tach services the Head-end sooner or later.

The whole Cable Drive comes out of the Head and there's an O-ring to deal with.
The O-ring is a Metric sized O-ring.
Hardware stores with well stocked Plumbing supplies will have drawers full of them.
Not a Dime-a-dozen.
More like a Dime or 15-Cents each.

Oil level.
Drain the old stuff.
Fill with new stuff ... slowly ... when the level gets toward the Top of the Window.
Leave a little bubble. Not much. And you got a Visual reference.

Here's how I do the Gasket:
Since the Cam Cover Gasket fits with such nice precision and needs to be treated such that you can remove the Cam Cover and not damage the Gasket when doing adjustments and inspections, ... take your time getting the New one on just-right and it will last you for years.

Get the Cover meticulously clean where the Gasket will fit.
Make sure the Gasket "Lip Locating Channel" is thoroughly cleaned.

Clean the Channel and where the Gasket goes surgically clean.
Get your Mom's Elmers Glue.
Cut a Carb Cleaner Tube's end at a 45-Degree angle.

Smear >> Lightly Coat >> Lightly apply.

Smear some Elmers in the Channel using your Handy-Dandy Carb Tube which fits the channel Like a glove.
Don't waste time.
Get the Gasket Mounted in there and Position it before the Elmers dries.
SEAT the Gasket.
Wipe-off any Elmers the oozes out on to a moist Paper towel you have tucked into the band of your pants.
Position the Gasket PERFECTLY!
Let dry.
Good show.
Now, get an artist Paint Brush.
Paint the Gasket with a nice thin coat of Oil.
Paint the Engine Surface where the Gasket will touch with a thin coat of Oil.
Put the Cover on and POSITION IT.
Tighten down ....>>>> Slowly! Letting the Gasket SPREAD-OUT as you Tighten.
Torque to spex
It will NOT leak.

tach/ cam: check, check. Think I should be ok moving forward on those leaks.

Oil level: i must be really low on oil, because i put in almost a whole qt today and didn't see a difference. hopefully when completely drained I can watch it fill up.

so my last question then: is it bad for the bike to sit w/o oil for 3-4 days? obviously it won't be running.

Sure.
No Problem.

Make a "NO Oil -- DO NOT START" note and Tape it OVER the Ignition Switch.

You could forget.

I'll also suggest that while you are at replacing the tach o-ring, that you replace the gear shaft seal located inside the assembly at the same time. I've done this repair twice now and still have issues with weeping. If you are in town (LA is 45min away) I would be willing to drop by on a weekend and assist.

+1. Procedure here: xjbikes.com/Forums/vie...19538.html

And yes they do still weep if you have the audacity to actually ride your bike.

They also seem to fail almost immediately after returning an XJ to service, no matter what the mileage. I think their environment is a tad too hostile for their design; they get baked to death, and dry out as soon as the bike sits for any period of time.

You do know that the oil filter for our bikes is commonly available, Fram CH6003 and it comes with the o-rings? A lot of major auto parts chains carry them.

Once you change your oil and ride the bike, the clean, hot oil will flush the sight glass clean, or should. You can also clean it with a q-tip when you have the clutch cover off.

Oil level has to be checked with the bike on the CENTERstand, or held vertical. If the bike is on the sidestand, you won't see any oil in the window. Correct level is ABOVE the marks on the case, with just a bubble showing at the top. That represents about a 200cc overfill, which is fine.
(Official oil capacity is that little number cast into the clutch cover by the filler.)

On the Cam Cover, I bought the rubber replacements for the bolts, but cannot get the old ones off. any tricks?

cut the old rubbers off with a craft knife.

Next time you need oil filters go to your local auto parts store, they usually have them or can get one in a day or so. You won't have to wait to long and no shipping charges.

wizard wrote:

cut the old rubbers off with a craft knife.

I CHOMP 'em with a large pair of diagonal cutters, cutting through the metal washer too.

OnTheStorm wrote:

On the Cam Cover, I bought the rubber replacements for the bolts, but cannot get the old ones off. any tricks?

now that they're off, how do i get the new ones on, it feels like there is a trick i do not know

Regarding your cloudy sight glass, when I had my clutch cover off for a clutch change I cleaned it out with a q-tip, and now I can see the level perfectly.

I can't say if you feel it's worth removing the clutch cover or attempting to reach down somehow to clean it, but I can assure you it can be done.

Also, I would like to know how to change the rubbers too...it's on my short list of motorcycle tasks.

Its been tough to find time to work on the bike, but i replaced the tech o-rings and got the thing screwed on right

I also replaced the valve cover seal. FYI Heat is the best friend for those god damn grommets.

Now my problem is the bolts. I got about 3 of them that refuse to tighten. The will go in to the point where they start to give a bit of resistance (just where the head is flush with the cover), then just "circle." not going down any farther.

I know the threads are ok because I removed the valve cover and was able to screw the bolts down with out the cover. I have tried with different bolts and eliminated that problem. Solutions?