I picked up a 1982 Maxim 750 a couple of weeks ago for $200. It's in really rough shape but I enjoy working on motorcycles and am in no rush to get it done - although it would be nice to get in a little riding time before winter (I'm in Minnesota).

I thought I'd start a thread detailing the work I'm doing and welcome any suggestions you may have.

Put in a new solenoid as it only wanted to turn over intermittently - works good now. Was able to get it started with starting fluid but wouldn't continue running - didn't figure it would but had to try.

I rebuilt the carbs using the advice from this forum - put in new v-seals on the throttle shafts, new o-rings on the fuel tubes between the carbs, new o-rings and washers under the mixture screw. I had to use easy outs to get the drain screws out of the bowls and replaced with stainless allen head screws from Chacal. I still have to see if the float levels are set correctly. I decided I better set the valves before I try the carbs out.

The bike has about 25000 miles on it. I checked the compression and the readings were 125, 115, 120 and 117.

I took the valve cover off this evening and will be checking the valve clearances after work tomorrow.

sounds like you're well on track!!

Remember before you ride it:

-Check age of tires, anything over 5 years old replace.
-Check rear brake pads for delamination
-Check age of front brake lines, and replace if older than 4 years.

Enjoy!

mtnbikecrazy55 wrote:

sounds like you're well on track!! Remember before you ride it: -Check age of tires, anything over 5 years old replace. -Check rear brake pads for delamination -Check age of front brake lines, and replace if older than 4 years. Enjoy!

Thanks for the advice. I'm sure the tires will need to be replaced they look really good but are definitely over 5 years old. - I'll definitely check the rear brakes and plan to put in stainless steel brake lines on the front.

For now I'm just hoping I can get it running well - then take it out for a quick mile or 2 ride to make sure it shifts through all the gears as it should and then get back to working on the rest of it.

We're on similar tracks, I just bought an '82 XJ750 cheap too....non-runner, runs good now.

But this thing has been out of commission so long, every single aspect is proving to be a problem.

Carbs were totally stuck, but fortunately had all new parts. Tank full of scale, rust and old fuel...a gallon of vinegar, 3 feet of dog chain and a handful of nuts and bolts, and three days later it's clean as new.

Petcock needs rebuilt. Front brakes stuck. Had a Vetter fairing, trying to piece it back together with OE parts, the originals were lost.

But I'm in no hurry. If I was, I wouldn't have bought it. Like you, I'd like to ride it a little this summer just to see what else it needs before I really go through it this winter.

Good luck!

jeffcoslacker wrote:

We're on similar tracks, I just bought an '82 XJ750 cheap too....non-runner, runs good now. But this thing has been out of commission so long, every single aspect is proving to be a problem. Carbs were totally stuck, but fortunately had all new parts. Tank full of scale, rust and old fuel...a gallon of vinegar, 3 feet of dog chain and a handful of nuts and bolts, and three days later it's clean as new. Petcock needs rebuilt. Front brakes stuck. Had a Vetter fairing, trying to piece it back together with OE parts, the originals were lost. But I'm in no hurry. If I was, I wouldn't have bought it. Like you, I'd like to ride it a little this summer just to see what else it needs before I really go through it this winter. Good luck!

It really does sound like we are on the same track. Mine had the vetter fairing as well. Petcock seems ok but the front brakes are stuck as well. The inside of my gas tank looks ok but a lot of rust everywhere else - I may have to replace the front forks, but we'll see.

I checked the valve clearances and this is what I got:

Intake:
1 = .064 mm
2 = .127 mm
3 = .127 mm
4 = .102 mm

Exhaust:
1 = .178 mm
2 = .152 mm
3 = .127 mm
4 = .178 mm

I need to order the tool from Chacal to get the shims out and see what's in there so I know what new shims I need to order.

Welcome in up the road in St Paul. Good luck and post some pics of your project.

MN

I'll get some pics this evening and get them posted. Glad to know there is someone close by - I'm sure I'll be picking your brain from time to time as I work on this thing.

A few of us had a mini-meetup at a local viking MC riding chapter.

If there's enough interest perhaps we can plan another one.

kudoskun wrote:

A few of us had a mini-meetup at a local viking MC riding chapter. If there's enough interest perhaps we can plan another one.

vikings, eh? who are they?

kudoskun wrote:

A few of us had a mini-meetup at a local viking MC riding chapter. If there's enough interest perhaps we can plan another one.

Sounds like fun. Let me know if you decide to put something together.

Hey Dan - Another one close by here... I had a guy in Elgin get my bike going when I first got it and then had a forum member here that is down in Leroy get her running real good.

Did you have the Vetter fairing or the Yamaha fairing?

Riley/MN wrote:

Hey Dan - Another one close by here... I had a guy in Elgin get my bike going when I first got it and then had a forum member here that is down in Leroy get her running real good. Did you have the Vetter fairing or the Yamaha fairing?

Glad to hear there's another XJ guy close by. I'm sure I'll need some help before I'm done.

I do have the vetter fairing - but not going to use it.

WileyDan wrote:

I checked the valve clearances and this is what I got: Intake: 1 = .064 mm 2 = .127 mm 3 = .127 mm 4 = .102 mm Exhaust: 1 = .178 mm 2 = .152 mm 3 = .127 mm 4 = .178 mm I need to order the tool from Chacal to get the shims out and see what's in there so I know what new shims I need to order.

Got the tool this evening and removed the shims from the valves out of spec. intake 1 had a Y295 shim, Intake 4 had a y295 shim, Exhaust 2 had a Y270 Shim and Exhaust 3 had a Y270 shim.

So it looks like I need (2) 265 shims and (2) 290 shims. Let me know if I understand this correctly.

Thanks guys

Just to clarify you did just take the shims out to see what size they were and put them back in so you are not turning the cams on the buckets without any shims in place?

MN