UPDATED LIST AS OF 02-08-2009:

NOTE: parts available are now listed by the SECTIONS outlined below. Note that some items will appear in more than one section, due to the overlap in applications. Hopefully this will make the search for items much easier!

Each section is a separate ad posting, and the section is listed in BOLD RED TYPE at the top of each ad.

As usual, if you have any questions, please write to us via a PM (Private Message) through this website, e-mail us via the "email" button on the bottom of this post, or e-mail us directly at:

info @ xj4ever.com

PLEASE NOTE!: our e-mail address does NOT have spaces before or after the "@" symbol........the posting system on this website automatically adds blank spaces before and after that symbol as an anti-spam feature! Make sure you eliminate those blank spaces when sending us an e-mail! Our e-mail address does NOT have any blank spaces in it!!

PLEASE!: on each and every correspondence with us, please tell us what YEAR and MODEL bike you have (example: 1982 XJ650 Maxim) and what your NAME (first name, at least!) is......that information really makes life a bit easier for us, and insures a more timely and ACCURATE response from us back to you!


SECTION A:

INTRODUCTION:

located on Page 1 (this page) of the Catalog

--Yamaha History:

--Model ID/VIN's:

--The Real Costs of Maintenance:




SECTION B:

LITERATURE:

located on Page 1 (this page) of the Catalog

--Service Manuals:

--Owner's Manuals:

--Other Literature:




SECTION C:

FUEL SYSTEM ITEMS:

located on Page 1 (this page) of the Catalog

--Hitachi Parts:

--Mikuni Parts:

--General Fuel System Tools & Parts:

--Airboxes, Air Filters, Rubber Boots & Parts:

--Intake Manifolds and Related:

--Fuel Tanks, Caps, Filters, Fuel Line and Vacuum Lines:

--Petcocks & Parts:




SECTION D:

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:

located on Page 2 of the Catalog

--Electrical System Tools:

--Electrical System Wiring: Fuseboxes, Wiring harness components, and related.

--Charging System: AC Alternator/Generator, Regulator/Rectifier, and related.

--Ignition System: Ignition Switch, Keys, Pickup Coil, Ignition Coils, TCI-Igniter, Spark Plugs, Plug Caps, Diodes, and related hardware, etc.

--Starting System: Battery, Battery Cables, Solenoid, Starter Motor, Starter Switch, Relay, and related hardware, etc.

--Chassis Electrical System: Control Switches, Headlight, Relays, Horns, and related hardware, etc.

--Chassis Electrical System: Turn Signals, Tail Lights, Brake Lights, License Plate Lights, Lenses, Bulbs, Flashers, and related hardware, etc.

--Chassis Electrical System: Gauges and related hardware, etc.




SECTION E:

ENGINE PARTS:

located on Pages 2 and 3 of the Catalog

--Engine Gaskets:

--Oil System Parts:

--Valvetrain Parts: Valve Gaskets, Valvecovers, Valvecover Hardware, Valve Shims, Shim Tools.

--Valvetrain Parts: Valves, Valve Guides, Valve Springs, Keepers, and Hardware.

--Valvetrain Parts: Camshafts, Cam Chains, Guides, Tensioners, Tools and Hardware.

--Engine Mounts:

--Main and Rod Bearings:

--Pistons, Piston Rings, and Related:

--Connecting Rods and Hardware:

--Cylinders, Cylinder Heads, and Hardware:

--Oil Pump Engine Cover, Gaskets, and Hardware:

--Generator Cover, Shifter Cover, Clutch Cover, Gaskets, and Hardware:




SECTION F:

EXHAUST:

located on Page 3 of the Catalog

--Pipes: Headpipes, collectors, mufflers.

--Gaskets:

--Hardware and Tools:




SECTION G:

COOLING SYSTEM PARTS:

located on Page 3 of the Catalog

--for all you water-heads out there!




SECTION H:

CLUTCH/TRANSMISSION/DRIVETRAIN:

located on Page 3 of the Catalog

--Shifter Pedal, Pads, Clutch System Parts

--Drive Chain & Sprockets:

--Shaft Drive Parts:




SECTION J:

BRAKES:

located on Pages 3 and 4 of the Catalog

--Master Cylinders:

--Disc Brake Calipers and Parts:

--Disc Brake Pads and Parts:

--Disc Brake Rotors and Hardware:

--Rear Drum Brake Shoes and Parts:

--Brake Lines Introduction:

--Rubber Brake Lines:

--Braided Stainless Steel Brake Lines:

--Brake Line Hardware:

--Brake System Tools:




SECTION K:

STEERING/SUSPENSION:

located on Page 4 of the Catalog

--Steering: Handlebars, crowns, head bearings, etc.

--Front Suspension: Front suspension Overview.

--Front Suspension: XJ550 - XJ750 Forks, seals, springs, hardware, etc.

--Front Suspension: XJ900 - XJ1100 Forks, seals, springs, hardware, etc.

--Front Suspension: Fork Oil and Tools.

--Rear Suspension: Swingarm parts.

--Rear Suspension: Shock Absorbers, hardware, etc.




SECTION L:

WHEELS, AXLES, AND TIRES:

located on Page 5 of the Catalog

--Front Wheel Bearings, axles, speedometer drive, and related:

--Rear Wheel Bearings, axles, and related:

--Bearing Tools:

--Wheels & Tires:




SECTION M:

CONTROL CABLES & HAND LEVERS:

located on Page 5 of the Catalog

--Control Cables:

--Brake and Clutch Hand Levers:




SECTION N:

BODY & FRAME:

located on Page 5 of the Catalog

--Frame:

--Front Fairings and Windscreens:

--Fenders:

--Side Covers, Side Cowling, Rear Cowling:

--Seats, Seat Locks, Helmet Locks:

--Grab Bars, Grab Rails, Standing Handles, and Hardware:

--Mirrors:

--Footpegs:

--Kickstand, Centerstand, and Hardware:




SECTION O:

EMBLEMS, STRIPES, DECALS, AND PAINT:

located on Page 6 of the Catalog

--Emblems/Nameplates:

--Stripes and Decals:

--Paint:




SECTION P:

THE TOOLBOX:

located on Page 6 of the Catalog

--Chemicals, supplies, and general purpose tools.

--Specialty tools for specific areas of the bike.

--More specialty tools for specific areas of the bike.


*********************************************
FREE STANDARD SHIPPING {OR JUST $5.00 FOR PRIORITY MAIL} SHIPPING IN THE USA FOR ALL ORDERS OVER $100 !!!!

$7.50 STANDARD SHIPPING TO CANADA FOR ALL ORDERS OVER $100 !!!!

Paypal accepted. Worldwide shipping available. Shipping prices and insurance costs are NOT included in the prices of items unless specifically listed. Please write with your list of parts needs and I will be glad to quote your shipping costs to you.

You can either PM (Private Message) me through this website, e-mail us via the "email" button on the bottom of this post, or e-mail us directly at:

info @ xj4ever.com

PLEASE NOTE!: our e-mail address does NOT have spaces before or after the "@" symbol........the posting system on this website automatically adds blank spaces before and after that symbol as an anti-spam feature! Make sure you eliminate those blank spaces when sending us an e-mail! Our e-mail address does NOT have any blank spaces in it!!

PLEASE!: on each and every correspondence with us, please tell us what YEAR and MODEL bike you have (example: 1982 XJ650 Maxim) and what your NAME (first name, at least!) is......that information really makes life a bit easier for us, and insures a more timely and ACCURATE response from us back to you!

*********************************************

SECTION A:

INTRODUCTION:

--Yamaha History



The History of Yamaha

INTRODUCTION:

We all knew there had to be a reason.......


IN THE BEGINNING:

Yamaha is the world's second largest producer of motorcycles, but before making any motorcycles, Yamaha had become the world's largest piano maker, which explains their trademark "tuning forks" logo. So here's their story, which is also the story of your bike, and how it came about to be.

MR. YAMAHA HIMSELF:

Yamaha founder Torakusu Yamaha was raised in what is now the Wakayama Prefecture and received an unusual education from his samurai father, a surveyor with broad interests in astronomy and mechanics and a remarkable library. The Meiji Restoration, a government-subsidized effort to hasten the technological growth and development of Japanese society and industry during the late 19th century, put educated people such as Yamaha in a position to capitalize on the new growth.

At age 20 Yamaha studied watch repair in Nagasaki under a British engineer. He formed his own watchmaking company, but he was unable to stay in business because of a lack of money. He then took a job repairing medical equipment in Osaka after completing an apprenticeship at Japan's first school of Western medicine in Nagasaki.


As part of his job, Yamaha repaired surgical equipment in Hamamatsu, a small Pacific coastal fishing town. Because of their area's isolation, a township school there asked him in 1887 to repair their prized U.S.-made Mason & Hamlin reed organ. Seeing the instrument's commercial potential in Japan, Yamaha produced his own functional version of the organ within a year and then set up a new business in Hamamatsu to manufacture organs for Japanese primary schools.

In 1889 he established the Yamaha Organ Manufacturing Company, Japan's first maker of Western musical instruments. At the same time, the government granted Hamamatsu township status, which provided it with rail service and made it a regional commerce center.


Yamaha Organ used modern mass-production methods, and by 1889 it employed 100 people and produced 250 organs annually.


During the 1890's the more inexpensive upright piano surpassed the reed organ in popularity in U.S. homes. Yamaha saw the potential of this market. In 1897 he renamed his company Nippon Gakki Co., Ltd., which literally means "Japan musical instruments".

So the company that we today know as "Yamaha" began life in the music business, first producing organs in 1889. Within ten short years, it had become highly successful in this field and was renamed Nippon Gakki Limited and manufactured a wide range of reed organs and pianos.

Although building string instruments may seem, at first thought, to be mostly a skill of woodmakers and the like, in a large, integrated manufacturer such as this company became, there are also the machines that form the wood, saw the wood, make the brackets, as well as all of the extensive research into the strong, lightweight metal alloys needed for acoustic pianos.......and all of these metal working, engineering, and other such manufacturing skills were eventually applied directly to the creation of metal motorcycle parts.........but that's a story we're not quite ready to tell.



FAST FORWARD, 1941:

Japanese war efforts required the commandeering of all available manufacturing output for the production of wartime materials, most importantly aviation-related products. Nippon Gakki turned its technical, engineering, and associated manufacturing skills towards the successful production of propellers and fuel tanks for aircraft.

After the war, and the resultant economic hardships in the Japanese economy, there arose a large demand for inexpensive and reliable forms of transportation. Searching around for new markets in which to put their tremendous capabilities and skills to use, in 1953 company president Genichi Kawakami ushered in a new era by speaking these few words: "I want to carry out the trial manufacture of motorcycle engines."

He had explored and considered using Nippon Gakki's manufacturing resources to produce a range of different products, including sewing machines, auto parts, scooters, three-wheeled utility vehicles, and…..motorcycles.

At a later date, when asked about this critical decision, he stated, "I had my research division chief and other managers visit leading motorcycle factories around the country. They came back and told me there was still plenty of opportunity, even if we were entering the market late. As I didn't want to be completely unprepared in this unfamiliar business, we toured German factories before setting out to build our first 125cc bike. I joined in this tour around Europe during which my chief engineers learned how to build motorbikes. We did as much research as possible to insure that we could build a bike as good as any out there. Once we had that confidence, we started going."


A VISIONARY AT THE HELM:

"If you are going to make anything, make it the very best there is."

With this thought as their motto, the development team poured all their energies into building the first prototype, and ten months later, in August of 1954, the first model was complete. It was the Yamaha YA-1, powered by an air-cooled, 2-stroke, single-cylinder 125cc engine---basically a copy of the German DKW RT125 model. This bike, also known as the Akatombo (or "Red Dragonfly") of which only 125 units were built, was named in honor of the founder.

Once finished, it was put through an unprecedented 10,000 km endurance test to ensure that its quality was top-class, as well as winning two of Japan's premier road races of that era, the Mount Fuji Ascent Race and the Asama Volcano Highlands Event.

Due to the outstanding success of this first-ever model, in January 1955 the Hamakita Factory of the Nippon Gakki Company was built and full production of the YA-1 model began. With confidence in the new direction that Genichi was taking, Yamaha Motor Co., Ltd. was founded on July 1, 1955. Staffed by 274 enthusiastic employees, the new motorcycle manufacturer built about 200 units per month.

By 1956, a second model was ready for production. This was the YC-1, a 175cc single cylinder two-stroke. In 1957 Yamaha began production of its first 250cc, two-stroke twin cylinder model, the YD-1.

Based on Genichi's firm belief that a product isn't a product until it can hold it's own around the world, in 1958 Yamaha became the first Japanese maker to venture into the international race arena. The result was an impressive 6th place finish at the Catalina Grand Prix race in the USA.

Yamaha took quick action to build upon their momentum gained in the USA, and began marketing their motorcycles through an independent distributor in California. In 1958, Cooper Motors began selling the YD-1 250cc and the MF-1 (a 50cc, two-stroke, single cylinder, step-through street bike). Then in 1960, Yamaha International Corporation began selling motorcycles in the USA through its own network of dealers.

The modern Yamaha Motor Company had begun.


AN ENGINEERING COMPANY ON 2-STROKE FIRE:

In 1960, Genichi then turned his attention to the marine industry and began the production of the first Yamaha boats and outboard motors. This was the beginning of an aggressive expansion into these new fields utilizing new engines and FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic) technologies. The first watercraft model was the CAT-21, followed by the RUN-13 and the P-7 123cc outboard motor.

In 1963, Yamaha demonstrated its focus on cutting-edge, technological innovations by developing the Autolube System---the separate oil injection system for two-stroke models, eliminating the inconvenience of pre-mixing fuel and oil. Further engineering developments such as torque induction, multi-ported engines, reed valves and power valves kept Yamaha at the forefront of two-stroke engine technology.

At the same time, Yamaha pioneered the idea of the "over-the-counter" racer bike, which became a reality with the introduction of the TD-1, the first in a long line of 2-stroke race bikes that were the standard for private race teams everywhere. Eventually, rules and competitive pressures changed, but the stage had been set for the introduction of mass-produced racers based on the same technology as the road bikes, and vice-versa.

Another example of the Genichi's belief in company efforts being focused on the needs of the customer was the Yamaha DT-1. The world's first true off-road motorcycle debuted in 1968 to create an entirely new genre we know today as "trail bikes". The DT-1 made a huge impact on motorcycling in the USA because it was truly dirt worthy. Yamaha definitely "read the flow" of consumer desires when it produced this 250cc, single cylinder, 2-stroke Enduro that put Yamaha On/Off-Road motorcycles on the map in the USA. The DT-1 exemplified the power of original ideas, forward vision, and quick action coupled with keeping in mind the customers' desires.

And once again, in 1975, Yamaha introduced the very first single-shock, production motocross bikes. This was the beginning of the YZ Monocross machines that changed motocross forever.



SO FOUR STROKES MUST BE TWICE THE FUN:

1970: Yamaha’s first 4-stroke motorcycle model, the XS-1 (650cc vertical twin) was introduced. A new era begins......

The XS-1 model was soon re-fashioned into the popular XS650 model, and quickly followed by the XS750 3-cylinder model in 1976. This was Yamaha's first large-displacement 4-stroke engine, and was also note-worthy as the first widely accepted shaft-drive motorcycle from Yamaha. Prior to its introduction, shaft drive motorcycles were associated only with higher-end, solid, dependable machines of limited performance appeal, such as the BMW and Honda Gold Wing designs.

As always, Yamaha was learning and refining their technologies and skills in order to better serve the developing needs of the marketplace and their customers.

As gas prices quenched the horsepower battle of the 1970's, the marketplace demanded more refined, mid-level machines that still performed well. Yamaha answered that challenge with the all new XJ series of bikes, which not only incorporated the now-refined shaft-drive technology (on all but the XJ550 models), but also introduced a newly developed and astonishingly narrow in-line four cylinder engine (achieved by moving the alternator from its usual location---at the end of the crankshaft---to above and behind the cylinders and driving it via a secondary, chain-driven shaft). This engine design proved so successful that it remained in production for over twenty years, while other major refinements were introduced in the area of suspension technology (air assistance and anti-dive valving on the front forks) as well as one of the first uses of computer-assisted operations on a motorcycle (although it was mainly a fancy gadget at that time, it was at the start of what obviously became the standard for the future), transistorized electronic ignition, and the recently developed YICS (Yamaha Induction Control System) performance enhancement for their cylinder heads.

Almost all XJ models incorporated many other desirable performance and safety-related features, such as:

- Self-canceling turn signals.
- Air adjustable front forks and rear shock absorber (on some models).
- Five position rear shocks, with adjustable damping.
- Lockable forks for security.
- A security chain (called a Powerlock) which is used to lock the bike to a pole.
- Trip odometer.
- A seat and helmet lock.
- YICS (Yamaha Induction Control System), a performance and fuel-saving engine system.
- Ignition cut-off safety system that does not allow the engine to be operated under certain conditions (if the kick stand is down, for example).
- One of the first uses of computerized systems monitoring systems, as introduced on the 1982 XJ750RH Seca models.
- Four-into-two exhaust design that provides for exceptional performance and acceptable sound levels.


The XJ-series were perhaps most unique in their consolidation of not only the technical refinements as described above, but also the integration of design and styling aesthtic elements that appealed to a wide population of buyers.....elements that still have strong appeal even today, 25+ years later. Let's take a quick detour and examine why.


A BRIEF HISTORY OF THAT TIME:

Most bikes (especially during the 1970's) were produced as street bikes, off-road, or dual-purpose bikes. Euro-style "café racers", touring bikes, low riders (choppers and semi chops) and the like were mostly custom modified versions of street bikes. During the early 70's most of the Japanese bikes (except Hondas) were powered by 2 stroke engines. By the mid-70's, the larger two stroke engines were being replaced with four stroke engines. Suzuki even introduced a bike that was powered by rotary engine! But by the end of the 1970's virtually all the street bikes being produced were 4-stroke, with Yamaha being no exception.

So by the end of the decade, the entire motorcycle industry was experimenting with giving a particular "style" to some of their newer models. By re-arranging the elements of what would basically be a standard road bike, the manufacturers produced an appearance similar to that of a customized motorcycle.....bringing to the mass marketplace what only the specialized customizers and choppers had been doing for some time.

Once again, it was this appreciation, understanding, and focus on the wants and need of the customers that fed-back into the entire organization---marketing, engineering, and production operations---that led to the development of these newer (and timeless in their appeal) XJ bikes.

So, starting with the XJ650H Maxim model (1980), these bikes featured a sloped down, almost "teardrop" syle fuel tank, a semi "king-and-queen" styled seat, and thus have a basic shape giving it the appearance similar to that of a cruiser. But this bike was no low rider...the seat is actually as high as what the earlier street bikes had. The handlebars of the Maxim are high enough and wide enough to provide both comfortable riding and exceptional control.

The Seca models took on more of a sport bike appearance, with flatter handlebars, more scalloped gas tank sides to allow for a more "forward leaning" riding position, and generally a sportier styling and appearance (even though the engine choices, power ratings, and performance were identical to their like-sized Maxim models).

Model choices soon proliferated around this basic design; the following list briefly summarizes the North American model availability:

- XJ550 Maxim and Seca models (1981 - 1983). The XJ550 and later FJ600 models are based on a different 4 cylinder, air-cooled inline DOHC powerplant than the larger 650cc-up models, and were never equipped with a shaft-drive system, only with a 6 speed chain drive transmission.

- XJ650 Maxim (1980-83) and Midnight Maxim (1981) models. Note that all of the Yamaha XJ650, XJ700 non-X, XJ750, and XJ900 models share the same basic air-cooled, inline DOHC four-cylinder shaft drive 5 speed powerplant and driveline.

- XJ650RJ Seca and XJ650RJC Seca (1982) models. The XJ650RJ Seca model was unique in that the USA versions were equipped with a non-YICS engine and no oil cooler....and were painted silver with blue graphics. The XJ650RJC Canadian versions were painted red, with red graphics, and had the YICS engine as well as a factory oil cooler. Some reports indicate that the red "RJC" model may have been available in the USA in limited quantities, and that it was equipped with the 750cc engine.

- XJ650 Turbo models (1982 and 1983). One of the very first factory-direct turbocharged models, these plastic-wrapped, full-fairing bikes still look modern today, and preceded the sportbike craze by almost a dozen years or so. While there are very few differences between the 1982 and 1983 models, the 1983 model does have a larger fuel tank, as well as a "power-up" kit that allowed for more boost pressure and subsequent higher horsepower ratings. The vacuum control module that was the main feature of the "power-up" kit was available a a retrofit to all 1982 models by Yamaha. 1983 XJ650LK Turbo models are very rare bikes.

- XJ700 models (1985 and 1986), both in a standard (air-cooled or "airhead") model and an "X" (water-cooled or "waterhead") version, further described below. The XJ700 models were produced as a response to US import tariffs set up to protect domestic (meaning Harley-Davidson) manufacturers from foreign (meaning Japanese) motorcycle sales sucess during the mid-80's, but those tariffs were soon dropped. Since Canada was obviously not subject to such restrictions, they got both the XJ700-X and XJ750-X models, while the USA dealers only got the 700cc versions, thus limiting the demand for such models. Therefore, XJ700 owners---of both the standard and "X" versions---and XJ750-X owners own a very rare machine and a testament to a part of USA legal history. An incredibly interesting review of the history of this situation can be seen at:

www.maxim-x.com/itc_70...tails.html

The XJ700-X and XJ750-X models have a water-cooled engine with the five-valves-per-cylinder Genisis engine based on the 1984 FZ750 model, but use the same bottom end and drive shaft unit as the other XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900 models. The Maxim X was perhaps the fastest of the XJ series, as fast or faster than many sport-bikes of its day. And the XJ750-X models are indeed very rare bikes.

- XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim (1982-83) models.

- XJ750 Seca (1981-84) models, although please note that the 1984 XJ750RL Seca is a Canadian- and Australian-only model, which is similar (possibly identical) to the XJ750-F in Europe. It's based on the XJ900, with a slightly different 750 motor than the Seca/Maxim 750 (it uses larger carbs, the airbox from the 900, and the same electronic ignition as the 900). It's so close to the XJ900 that the factory service manual is an XJ900 manual with a short (about 100 pages) addendum for the XJ750RL.

- XJ900RK Seca model (only available in 1983 in the USA).

- XJ1100 model (1982-83). The XJ1100 model was really a re-framed and re-named version of the already-popular XS1100 model, and did not use the XJ-series engine. The XJ1100 engine was based on the earlier XS1100 series, also a 4 cylinder, air-cooled inline DOHC shaft drive, and while the engine families are similar, there are some major design differences internally from the 650/700/750/900-based machines.


Besides the North American models, the rest of the world was also treated to XJ-Fever:

- the XJ550 model (no Maxim or Seca designation), from 1981 to 1983, which resembles the North American XJ550 Seca models (sans the front fairing). These models came with dual front disc brakes, unlike their USA and Canadian cousins. However, in 1984 only, there appears to have been a North-American style XJ550 that was offered in the European and U.K. markets, and it is based on the North American XJ550 Maxim model----meaning, it has only a single front disc brake on the left side, a Maxim style gas tank, and no fuel or volts gauge.

It should be noted that beginning in 1984, the XJ550 models became known as FJ600 models in the rest of the world, except for the above-referenced European/U.K. models.

- the XJ650 model (again, no Maxim or Seca designation), from 1980 to 1984, which also resembled the North American XJ650RJ Seca model. These models also came with dual front disc brakes and oil coolers, unlike the USA-Canadian versions.

- the XJ750 model, (guess what: no Maxim or Seca designation) from 1981 to 1984. As with the XJ650 models above, these bikes came stock with an oil cooler, unlike the North American models.

- the XJ900 model, which began production in 1983 and remained in production, off and on, in the rest of the world for almost a dozen years, where it was eventually known as the Diversion. As a special note, Yamaha changed the handlebar-mounted fairing to a frame-mounted style in 1984 (and apparantly refitted almost 1200 of the 1983 models----free of charge!---because of high-speed handling problems associated with the handlebar-mounted fairings). Also, the engine size was originally 853cc in 1983-84, and then increased to a "truer" 891cc's for the rest of its production life.


And finally, to throw a little bit of confusion into the mix, we have this:

- Yamaha also produced a couple of twin-cylinder XS400 bikes using the same Seca and Maxim designations for the North American markets. These bikes are the "younger cousins" of the XJ-series bikes, and are from the related-but-different "XS" series of models. Besides sharing the Maxim and Seca names, they use the XJ-series style engine (DOHC, alternator behind the crankshaft, YICS system). They were chain-driven (5-speed on the Maxim, 6-speed on the Seca models), and featured a unique mono-shock rear suspension system. They were available from 1982-83 in the USA, and lasted until until 1984 in Canada.

But, just to throw the usual Yamaha "twist" into the plot, there was also a 1982 XS400SJ "Special" model that was related to the older XS-series bikes, having the SOHC motor and a more typical dual-shock rear suspension...........

- Europe and Japan actually got a "real" XJ400 model --- a 4-cylinder Seca based on the XJ550. Similarly, the XJ600---also based originally on the XJ550 model---was produced in 1984-85, but was known as the FJ600 for the North American market. In later years, a new XJ600, with all-new frame and a mono-shock rear suspension system, was marketed as the Seca II in North America and the Diversion elsewhere.

- Somewhere along the line, Yamaha also introduced the XJR1200 (a chain-driven bike based on the FJ1100 and FJ1200 models) that never made it to North America either. In 2001 that was replaced by the XJR1300 and the FJR1300. Oddly enough, the XJR1300 is the chain drive, and the FJR1300 is the shaft drive, a reversal of the convention used originally in North America.

- Yamaha produced a few limited variations of their standard models over the years. There were Police versions of the XJ650 Seca, XJ750 Seca and the XJ900 Seca. The Japanese market had a fuel-injected XJ750-D model, while an XJ750-A model used the XJ650 Seca frame with the 750cc engine installed.

There---study and learn the above and you, too, can claim to be a certifiable XJ expert, nutcase, or both!



AND THEN SUDDENLY, THE MUSIC STOPPED:

However, not all things were quite as meets the eye, and it is an ironic twist of fate that what actually led to the development and introduction of the XJ-series of bikes also led to their demise.

The 1980's were actually a very difficult decade for the company.

In the late 70's/early 80's Yamaha made a conscious marketing and strategic business decision to try and overtake Honda as the largest builder of motorcycles, and that's what actually led to the amazing proliferation in both the number of models and production quantities.

Kawasaki and Suzuki quickly followed the herd, and soon the the world (especially North America, the biggest market) was awash in un-sold motorcycles, and the standard price wars that always follows over-production quickly started.

It has been noted that by the early 1980's that Yamaha alone had over 1 million unsold bikes in their dealer and factory inventory, and to try and move them out, huge price discounts started appearing......and that started eating into Harley-Davidson sales and profits.

This is when H-D went to the US Government and got an import tariff and restriction on 700+cc sized bikes. Which wasn't really necessary, since Yamaha had given up on their grand plan by then, and they and others simply slowly bled off the excess inventory via the discontinuance of most models (XJ's included) and no new production in most of 1983 and 1984.

In fact, soon after the 1985-86 models hit the showroom, H-D had gone back to the US Government and told them that the import restirctions were no longer needed! (and the restriction and tariff was lifted in 1987). Of course, for the USA, it was too late for those dealers to get the larger XJ750-X models........and by then, the consumer rush to the newer style model "sport" bikes and huge cruisers had started, and that was the end of the XJ-series of street-sport-cruiser style bikes.

So by this era---the mid-to-late 1980's---all manufacturers were styling most of their North American street bikes to fit into one of three basic categories:

Touring: Large, heavy bikes, with storage trunks, fairings, sound systems, and all sorts of comfort and convenience features----two wheeled "rolling couches".

Sport: Light, nimble, jack-be-quick race styled bikes, with lots of body shrouding ("plastic"), usually with high-revving, smaller displacement engines.

Cruisers: Smooth styling, low ride, mellow tuned.


All the major manufacturers produced some really great touring, sport, and cruising bikes; however, many motorcycle enthusiasts really did not see any of them falling into the category of what was really still desired.......and that being a capable, dependable, good-all-around "road bike".

The original XJ Seca and Maxim models seem to be some of the last of these "all around" road bikes that were available in the marketplace; that is, they don't really fit into one of the three basic categories above, but these bikes did have there own particular styling that suggested they were on the edge of both the cruising or sport styled categories. Sadly, models such as the XJ Maxim and the Seca did not continue in production anywhere, as the evolving Seca II type style (sport bike) seemed to become the market preference.

In years directly preceding and following these brilliant XJ-series of bikes, Yamaha continued to grow (and continues to this day). Product-line diversity increased with the addition of products including snowmobiles, race kart engines, generators, scooters, ATVs, personal watercraft and more.

Genichi Kawakami set the stage for Yamaha Motor Company's success with his vision and philosophies of total honesty towards the customer, making products that hold their own, and which provide an improved lifestyle to people through exceptional quality, high performance products. His history and influence with Yamaha was long and rich. He saw the new corporate headquarters in Cypress, California inaugurated in 1980, and the 25th Anniversary of Yamaha Motor Company become a reality in 1980. He also watched the 20-millionith bike roll off the assembly line in 1982. Genichi passed away on May 25, 2002 yet his vision lives on through the people and products of Yamaha, throughout the world.



XJ's FOREVER:

Today, it's no wonder there are riders and collectors that still prefer these classic bikes to anything they have seen produced since. While it is certainly true that these bikes have their share of flaws and faults----electrical system upgrades are a must on these older bikes, as they were barely adequate to begin with----but with some small changes such as upgraded technology and material usage in the brake system, they are one of the finest and most durable examples of the classic sport-cruiser models ever made, and thus retain their desirability, collectibility, and value even 25+ years after they were first introduced.

One owner sums up the XJ Experience with this insight:

"I just can't believe how much smoother the motor runs compared to my VMX. This old XJ motor is a real jewel. My brother rides a Yamaha FZR and he is very impressed with the smoothness of the XJ. He revs it up a bit at idle and remarks how much smoother it is than his FZR. With the stock pipes, the XJ750 sounds so sweet! It does this throaty 'woom-wooom' sound, and will rev to the moon and back, and it sounds just like music to my ears."

And so it should be, and perhaps was ordained to be. Yamaha started off almost a hundred years earlier making beautiful music---organs, pianos, and the like---and has never stopped.

SECTION A:

INTRODUCTION:

--Model ID/VIN's



FRAME AND MODEL AND VIN NUMBERS, OH MY!!!


Okay, gather 'round friends and prepare yourself, 'cause we're about to go down the rabbit hole......

It goes without saying that the proper and correct identification of your bike is important for a number of purposes----first and foremost, so that you can order the correct parts for it! But equally important is making sure that your title is correctly identifying your bike for registration, title, and licensing purposes, as well as for insurance registration purposes, etc.

Our STRONGEST advice is to not rely on the information on your title, bill of sale, insurance documents, state registration certificates or any other PIECE OF PAPER-----always go "right to horse's mouth"----or in this case, your bike's frame, and absolutely verify 100% what bike you actually have! You'd would be quite surprised how many people we come across who are ordering parts, for example, for a 1981 model XJ-whatever because that's what it was sold to them as (or titled as), when in reality they have a 1982 model! YOUR FRAME AND ENGINE CASE ID NUMBERS ALWAYS SPEAKS THE REAL TRUTH! Some typed-up piece of paper from a government or insurance company clerk does not always fall into that same category of certainty!


ALSO: verify that the engine in your bike is the original engine! Since many of the XJ-series engines are physically interchangable with each other, you never know what's been done over the years as far as engine-swapping is concerned! Rings and pistons from a 650 model engine are NOT going to fit a 750 engine, even if the 750 engine is installed in an XJ650 frame!!! So please---spend the 90 seconds or so necessary to determine whether the engine is original to the bike, and if not, what year/make/model bike that the engine came from. The procedure for doing this is described completely further below.

And finally, if you take a little bit of study time all of the information below, then soon you, too, can start "code talking" about having a "1982 5N8 model" or a "750MK" and really impress the other guys at the shop with your intimate and devil-is-in-the-details knowledge about all things Yamaha......



Okay, as is proper with any good training video, we're going to start with the big picture and then work down to the nitty-gritty details.

So, buckle up, or hunker down, or whatever your favorite metaphor is------because there's going to be a pretty smooth take-off, but then expect some bumps in the road ahead.


NUMBERS, NUMBERS-----EVERYWHERE:

In order to provide a simple basis of communication both internally (between the engineering, sales, production, marketing, and other departments within a company) and also externally (retail dealers, customers, governmental and other outside parties), vehicle manufacturers of all kinds choose to (and are now required to) provide unique "shorthand" codes for each particular unit that they offer for sale. The most commonly used code is what is commonly known as a VIN or Vehicle Identification Number----a sort of "DNA fingerprint" for an individual product. Besides containing a unique serial number for an individual bike, the VIN number also identifies unique characteristics of a bike, such as the manufacturer, the model or "platform" identification, certain optional characteristics, the year of manufacture, etc.

Before we get down to deciphering a VIN number, let's take a brief step back in time, and recognize that prior to 1981, there was no real set standard for how VIN numbers had to be assigned.....in other words, the VIN Numbers used (by any vehicle manufacturer) prior to 1981 was more-or-less an internal-use number, and could be conjured up in whatever way struck a manufacturer's fancy and served their internal needs.

Starting in the late 1970's, with the proliferation of manufacturers, vehicle production volumes, and international sales, a solution to the "VIN dilemma" was suggested by the International Standards Organization (outlined in ISO Standard #3779, for the ultra-curious), and this standard was adopted and required to be used by all manufacturers that sold vehicles into the USA by the National Highway Traffic Saftey Administration (NHTSA) as of 1981. This is when the familiar, still-used-today 17-position VIN number came into use, and similar structured VIN formats were also adopted by Canada, the European countries, and many other countries around the world.

Prior to 1981, manufacturers could use a VIN number length of their choice, and Yamaha was no exception in this regard. In fact, because of the difficulty encountered with implementing this required 1981 changeover, Yamaha (and some other manufacturers) were granted a 9-month "stay of execution" for their 1981 model-year offerings, where they could still use their older (shorter) version VIN numbers to identify their products.

Thus 1980, 1981, and perhaps even some very early production 1982 model-year bikes use a shorter VIN number that appears on the frame of the bike (more about this later), and may also include a printed paper decal that lists a different (longer) VIN number that is the "extended", 17-posiiton version of the original, shorter VIN number.

Although for the purposes of absolutely, positively identifying your bike for exactly what it "is", the differences between the shorty VIN and the longer VIN are minor---although since the full 17-position VIN number contains more information, it makes the deciphering process a bit less time-consuming, but rest assured that----armed with the proper information---even a "shorty VIN" can be just as accurately and fully de-coded.



WHAT'S YOUR NAME, LITTLE XJ, BABY WHAT'S YOUR NAME?:

Okay, here is how Yamaha VIN's breakdown. We're going to start with the full 17-position VIN, and only later go backwards and look at the shorty VIN's and see how they inter-relate to each other.

As an example, we're going to play motorcycle manufacturer and we're going to build ourselves a 1981 XJ650 Maxim VIN.

Here is a standardized 17-position string of letters and characters that we'll use as an example:

1234567890abcdefg

Now, we're going to break up that 17-character string into it's component bits and pieces, like this:

123 -45678- -9- -0- -a- -bcdefg

It's broken up this way because each sub-group of positions (as shown above) has a specific meaning, and here they are:

The first 3-position field ("123") is known as the WMI, or World Manufacturer Identifier code. For Yamaha, their WMI is "JYA", and thus all Yamaha motorcycle VIN numbers from this era begin with JYA:

JYA -45678- -9- -0- -a- -bcdefg

For the curious, the WMI code actually has a specific meaning for each position: the first position identifies the country in which the vehicle was manufactured (J = Japan), the second position identifies the unique manufacturer (Y = Yamaha), and the third position identifies the vehicle type or manufacturing division (A = motorcycle).

The next 5-position field ("45678") identifies the vehicle characteristics, such a body style, engine type, model, "platform", series, etc. Since Yamaha only identified these bikes by their general MODEL ID CODE, this field is always populated by the 3-position model ID code (5N8, 5G2, 4H7, etc.) followed by two zeros (thus 5N800, 5G200, 4H700, etc.). Although Yamaha could have coded engine size, or paint color, or whatever else they wanted to into those extra two positions, they chose not to, and thus they are always filled with zeros:

JYA4H700 -9- -0- -a- -bcdefg

By the way, the "4H7" model ID code is for a USA-destined 1980-81 XJ650 Maxim model, just so you can follow along more easily.

The next 1-position field---position "9" above---is always a mathematically calculated "check digit" that looks at all other positions of the full VIN number, performs a mathematical formula (multiplying, adding, and then dividing according to a pre-determined routine), and uses the remainder as the check digit. This process insures that transcribing errors and forgery efforts can be identified more easily.

For our example, we're going to use the number 6 as the check digit:

JYA4H7006 -0- -a- -bcdefg

Okay, the next position---the tenth position in the VIN number (designated by the number -0- above) identifies the year of your bike. NOTE: the "year" actually refers to the MODEL YEAR of your bike, and not the year in which it was produced. Since "next year's" models normally are available in dealer showrooms sometime around September of the previous calender year, the model year of the bike and the calender year of a bike's production can differ.

In fact, on the VIN decal on your bike, besides the 17-position VIN number, you will also find the date of the bike production in the format MM/YY, such as 10/80 (meaning October, 1980). A 10/80-built bike would be a 1981 MODEL YEAR vehicle.

The model YEAR code in the tenth position of the VIN are as follows:

A = 1980
B = 1981
C = 1982
D = 1983
E = 1984
F = 1985
G = 1986
and so on......

Since we've agreed that we're putting together a 1981 model, then of course the tenth position is---from the chart above---the letter "B":

NOTE: we're going to confuse you now----and it won't be the last time. The year-designation letter codes listed above ONLY PERTAIN TO THE MODEL YEAR CODE USED IN THE VIN.

There is an alternative way of identifying the year of your bike by the Yamaha marketing "model name" of your bike, and it also uses a letter code for such year-model identification purposes, BUT SUCH MODEL DESIGNATION "NAMES" USE A DIFFERENT LETTER CODE THAN WHAT IS THE VIN "YEAR" IDENTIFIER CODE!

Okay, deep breath now, keep going, and forget about that last paragraph for now----but, do keep it in mind for later.........

JYA4H7006B -a- -bcdefg

The 11th position of a VIN number (-a-) is the location of the ASSEMBLY PLANT where the bike was made. All bikes in this era were produced in Japan, probably at their Iwata City production facility, which was the "A" location. Thus the 11th position of all XJ model bikes will be the letter "A":

JYA4H7006BA -bcdefg

And now we're down to the last 6 positions of the full VIN, and this is the unique, sequential "serial number" of each individual bike. Your own bike has a serial number that is different than every other one ever produced for your model and year bike.

For various reasons, Yamaha assigned a range of serial numbers for each bike year and model, and these numbers did not normally start with the number "000001". The starting point for each serial number differs by year and model. For the 1981 XJ650 Maxim used in this example, the serial number range starts with serial number "100101". Each subsequent 1981 XJ650 Maxim model 4H7 destined for the US marketplace got the next higher serial number, thus the second bike off the assembly line was #100102, etc.

Let's pretend that this was the 1,356th 1981 XJ650 Maxim destined for the US marketplace. So starting with the 100101 number, we add 1,356 to it, and get: 101457 ( = 1,356 + 100,101).

So our final VIN for this particular bike is:

JYA4H7006BA101457

which, breaking it down into its component, meaningful parts again, is this:

JYA -4H700- -6- -B- -A- -101457

Now, with all of the above in mind, we can see from the above 17-position VIN that most of the information that is USEFUL is really just the MODEL ID part (4H700), the year (B), and the unique serial number portion (101457).

In fact, in the model ID part, since positions 4 and 5 were not used by Yamaha to designate anything at all, and thus are always "00", then really only the model ID part (4H7) contain any useful infromation:

4H7---the model identification portion, in this case meaning a 1980 or 1981 XJ650 Maxim.

B---the model year, in this case 1981.

101457---the unique production number ("serial number") of this particular bike.



And Here's Where We Go Backwards:

From the example above, we see that although a full 17-position VIN number was required of Yamaha (and everyone else) beginning in 1981, all of the useful information contained in the 17-position VIN can just as easily be captured by a "shorty" version of the VIN, just as Yamaha used prior to 1981:

4H7-101457

That smaller string of numbers, above, is what was considered a "VIN" number for 1981 and prior years.

BUT WAIT!, I hear you cry.........where is that useful piece of information called the "YEAR"? (in the full "long VIN", recall that the 10th position uses a letter code to designate the model YEAR, and in our example it's the letter "B", since B = 1981).

Good question. And here's the good answer:

Recall this statement from above:

"For various reasons, Yamaha assigned a range of serial numbers for each bike year and model, and these numbers did not start with the number 000001."

Well, one of those reasons is that by assigning a defined RANGE of unique serial numbers to each year and model of bike, that unique serial number not only identifies the individual unit of production (thus completely serving the "serial number, DNA-fingerprint" purpose of that number), but also serves as a way of identifying the year of production, too!

Here, as an example, for the 1980 and 1981 XJ650 Maxim (4H7) models, we have:

1980: starting serial number of 000101
1981: starting serial number of 100101

Thus, if you come across this shorty VIN:

4H7-021338

then you know that since the "serial number" is less than the number 100,101 (which is the starting serial number for 1981 models), then it's a 1980 XJ650 Maxim.

But when you see this shorty VIN, as from our "Build-A-Bike" example above:

4H7-101457

then since that serial number is greater than the "100101" starting point for 1981 model year bikes, then you automatically know that it's a 1981 (and not a 1980) "4H7" bike (an XJ650 Maxim).



And In Confusion, Whoops, I Meant "Conclusion":

Because the rules changed in 1981, and forced vehicle builders to use a structured, standardized 17-position format for the VIN, the 1980 and 1981 model bikes can have both the long or the short (or both) VIN numbers on the bike. With a little bit of additional information (the serial number range), you can fully "translate" the shorty VIN into the longer 17-position VIN. The longer VIN is standardized, and I suppose that's good; and it also explicitly codes the model year (in the 10th position), which is really the ONLY feature that the shorty VIN does not clearly encode.

Now, onto the burning questions:


Where on my bike is this long, or short, or any other VIN's?:

I don't have the slightest idea.........

Just kidding. The number(s) are in at least two places, and on most bikes, three locations:

1) On the right side of the steering "neck" or tube (or "head pipe" as it is sometimes called), you'll find stamped the shorty VIN (1980 and early-1982 models) or the full 17-positions VIN (late-1981 and later years) is stamped, vertically, into the frame tube.

2) On the left side of the steering "neck" or tube, there will be a white printed decal that will have the full 17-position VIN, along with typical boilerplate "conforms with regulations blah-blah-blah" wording. NOTE: it is on this decal, and only on this decal, that the date of your bike's manufacture is also printed, in a MM/YY format (i.e. 10/81 = October 1981 = a 1982 model year bike).

Note that for late-1981 year bikes and on, that the full 17-position VIN number appears on both the left-side decal and right-side stamping of the frame's steering neck tube.

On some later model bikes----primarily late-model XJ900 models----this ID "decal" became a metal plate that was rivited to the right side frame down-tube.

3) On the engine case, just behind or beside the clutch cover on the right side of the engine, on a small, flat machined pad that faces up (towards the sky). On XJ550 models, this pad is oriented left-to-right on the engine case, while on all other models it is oriented front-to-back.

What will you find on this pad?

The "shorty" VIN, as described previously. In our 1981 XJ650 Maxim, example, this flat pad would have this number stamped into it (as long as the engine is the original engine that came with the bike):

4H7-101457

Note that it does not matter what year your bike is; even after 1981, the number stamped onto this engine case pad is ALWAYS the "shorty VIN" number, and never the 17-position VIN.

From our discussion above, it is clear that if the engine in the bike is the original engine, then this number on the engine case will match, exactly, the shorty VIN on the right side of frame neck tube (1980 to early-1981 models), or, working backwards, to the model ID (4H7) and unique serial number (101457) of the longer VIN on 1982-later models.

Also, in situations where the engine has been replaced, you can actually figure out not only what engine it is (from the shorty VIN stamped onto the engine case), but you can actually work out the actual VIN number of the bike that such engine came from! All you need to know is the model ID codes (listed below), the serial number ranges (also listed below), and from that you can figure out the YEAR of the engine (and thus the bike).......giving you that "missing" bit of information that the full 17-position VIN does explicitly code for.....and then, using the "check digit" computation routine, you can actually calculate the full, complete VIN for the bike that an engine came from!

Now that's some kinda special party trick, you gotta admit!



Some Other Semi-Useful Tidbits Of Information About VIN's:

* In order to avoid visual confusion errors, the letters I, O, and Q are not allowed in any position of a 1981-later VIN.

* In order to avoid visual confusion errors, the characters U, Z, and 0 (zero) are not used for the model-year designation (the 10th position); however, the letters U and Z and the number 0 can be used in any other positions of the VIN.

* Although you didn't ask, here is how you calculate the "check digit" that is in position #9 in the VIN:

A) All letters and characters in the long VIN are assigned a numerical value. Numbers, of course, keep their like-value (i.e. 1 = 1, 5 = 5, etc.) Letters are assigned the numerical values as follows:

1 = A or J
2 = B, K, or S
3 = C, L, or T
4 = D, M, or U
5 = E, N, or V
6 = F or W
7 = G, P, or X
8 = H or Y
9 = R or Z


B) A multiplication factor is assigned to each VIN character position:

1st position: x8
2nd position: x7
3rd position: x6
4th position: x5
5th position: x4
6th position: x3
7th position: x2
8th position: x10
9th position: unknown, this is what you're trying to figure out!
10th position: x9
11th position: x8
12th position: x7
13th position: x6
14th position: x5
15th position: x4
16th position: x3
17th position: x2


C) Okay, now convert the 17-position VIN to the numerical value as outlined in "A" above:

JYA4H700?BA101457 (the ? is the check digit we're trying to calculate)

becomes, from the coding routine in "A" above:

18148700?21101457

and multiply each position value by the multiplication factor in "B" above:

1st position: 1 x8 = 8
2nd position: 8 x7 = 56
3rd position: 1 x6 = 6
4th position: 4 x5 = 20
5th position: 8 x4 = 32
6th position: 7 x3 = 21
7th position: 0 x2 = 0
8th position: 0 x10 = 0
9th position: unknown, this is what you're trying to figure out!
10th position: 2 x9 = 18
11th position: 1 x8 = 8
12th position: 1 x7 = 7
13th position: 0 x6 = 0
14th position: 1 x5 = 5
15th position: 4 x4 = 16
16th position: 5 x3 = 15
17th position: 7 x2 = 14


D) Now, add up all those sums from above:

8 + 56 + 6 + 20 + 32 + 21 + 0 + 0 + 18 + 8 + 7 + 0 + 5 + 16 + 15 + 14 = 226

Divide the sum (226) by 11 and note what the "remainder" is:

226 divided by 11 = 20 with a "remainder" of 6.........here, I'd forgotten basic math, too, so here's what a "remainder" is!:

226 divided by 11 is 20.5455, but the ".5455" part is not important. What IS important is that 11 x 20 = 220, and the "remainder" is 6 (because 220 + 6 is = 226). The "remainder" is the amount "left over" when you are using just whole numbers, no decimal places or fractions allowed.........

So the check digit for this VIN is 6:

JYA4H7006BA101457

By the way, if the calculations for a particular VIN leaves a "remainder" of 10 or more, then the check digit becomes the letter "X".




NOW MY BRAIN HURTS.........PLEASE STOP!:

No, you're doing really good!

And now we're going to get to the devil-details. NOW you're gonna' become a full-fledged XJ Fanatic!

Here's a review of the YEAR CODES in the 10th position of the full 17-position VIN's:

A = 1980
B = 1981
C = 1982
D = 1983
E = 1984
F = 1985
G = 1986
and so on......

Well, in the time before 1981---when there was no 17-position VIN's, and thus no "year codes" as defined above---Yamaha did have a way to "code" the year model of their bikes. Truth Be Told, they actually had two different ways.

The first method, we've already reviewed: the "serial number range" method. For the people who had access to, or just flat-out memorized serial number ranges by bike model, this method works fine. Remember this?:

"For various reasons, Yamaha assigned a range of serial numbers for each bike year and model, and these numbers did not start with the number 000001.

1980: starting serial number of 000101
1981: starting serial number of 100101"

Sure you do.

Now, since most people weren't about to memorize serial number ranges, a second method was devised by Yamaha to code the year model into an easy-to-understand code.

In naming their bikes, Yamaha would refer to bikes by their MODEL NAME (i.e. XJ550, XJ650, etc.) and then add a---you guessed it---a LETTER CODE to the end of the model name, as such:

XJ550H
XJ750J
XJ900RK

Unfortunately, the letter codes used in this manner bear no relation to the letter codes used in the 17-position VIN schemes.

Here's the Yamaha letter codes:

A = 1974
B = 1975
C = 1976
D = 1977
E = 1978
F = 1979
G = 1980
H = 1981
J = 1982
K = 1983
L = 1984
N = 1985
S = 1986

A couple of things to note here:

a) Prior to 1974, no code was used to designate the model year.

b) The letter I is skipped from the 1981-1982 sequence.

c) The letter M is skipped from the 1984-1985 sequence.

d) The letter O, P, Q, and R are skipped from the 1985-1986 sequence.


So the Yamaha coding system for identifying a particular bike was the use of the MODEL NAME (XJ550, XJ750, etc.) and then adding a year "suffix" at the end:

XJ550H is a 1981 XJ550 Maxim (the letter "H" = 1981)
XJ750J is a 1982 XJ750 Maxim (the letter "J" = 1982)
XJ900RK is a 1983 XJ900 Seca (the letter "K" = 1983)

Uh-oh........that last one is a bit confusing (there's two suffixes....R and K).

Well, to distinguish between a regular Maxim model and a Seca (or other) model, Yamaha also used other suffixes:

nothing = a regular base model (Maxim is the base model in the USA and Canada)
R = Seca
C = could mean Canadian, or could mean California. Nice, huh?
M = Midnight version of a Maxim, if it's an XJ750, but "L" if it's an XJ650 model, unless, of course, it's a 1982 or 1983 XJ650 model, in which case "L" refers to the Turbo Seca model, and..........
L = any one of a number of different things....

I think the best thing we can say is that "perhaps it's better than nothing".

Perhaps.........

The key point to remember is the letter codes above refer to the years. Here's the complete list of North-American MODEL NAMES:

550's:

XJ550H = 1981 XJ550 Maxim
XJ550RH = 1981 XJ550 Seca

XJ550J = 1982 XJ550 Maxim
XJ550RJ = 1982 XJ550 Seca

XJ550K = 1983 XJ550 Maxim
XJ550RK = 1983 XJ550 Seca


650's:

XJ650G = 1980 XJ650 Maxim

XJ650H = 1981 XJ650 Maxim
XJ650LH = 1981 XJ650 Midnight Maxim

XJ650J = 1982 XJ650 Maxim
XJ650RJ = 1982 XJ650 Seca, USA
XJ650RJC = 1982 XJ650 Seca, Canada
XJ650LJ = 1982 XJ650 Seca Turbo

XJ650K = 1983 XJ650 Maxim
XJ650LK = 1983 XJ650 Seca Turbo

XJ650L = 1984 XJ650 Maxim


700's:

XJ700N = 1985 XJ700 Maxim, 49-state version
XJ700NC = 1985 XJ700 Maxim, California models
XJ700XN = 1985 XJ700 Maxim X, 49-state version
XJ700XNC = 1985 XJ700 Maxim X, California models


XJ700S = 1986 XJ700 Maxim, 49-state version
XJ700SC = 1986 XJ700 Maxim, California models
XJ700XS = 1986 XJ700 Maxim X, 49-state version
XJ700XSC = 1986 XJ700 Maxim X, California models

As an aside, I've always secretly admired these 1986 "X" model codes, as the model - year designation (XS and XSC) phonetically sound out the word "excess"......and I'd congratulate Yamaha on such a clever marketing tactic, but alas, it just seems like it was a "luck of the draw" sorta thing.........


750's:

XJ750RH = 1981 XJ750 Seca

XJ750J = 1982 XJ750 Maxim
XJ750RJ = 1982 XJ750 Seca

XJ750K = 1983 XJ750 Maxim
XJ750MK = 1983 XJ750 Midnight Maxim
XJ750RK = 1983 XJ750 Seca

XJ750RL = 1984 XJ750 Seca, Canada and Australia only

XJ750XN = 1985 XJ750 Maxim X, Canada only

XJ750XS = 1986 XJ750 Maxim X, Canada only


900's:

XJ900RK = 1983 XJ900 Seca


1100's:

XJ1100J = 1982 XJ1100 Maxim



BUT WAIT! IF YOU ORDER RIGHT NOW, WE'LL THROW IN A FREE MODEL ID CODES BOOKLET........

Okay, from the above you can see what the Yamaha coding of the model and year was in their "marketing" descriptions of their bikes.

But there's another way, too.....the MODEL ID CODE. You've actually already been exposed to it within the VIN section previously; now, let's get serious about these codes!

The Model ID Codes are just another way of using a short code to substitute for a longer description. In our original example, "4H7" is a shorthand way or expressing 1980 or 1981 XJ650 Maxim model.

Here's the list of 3-position MODEL ID CODES for North American models. Later, we'll provide a complete list of all the worldwide codes:


550's:

1981-83 XJ550 Maxim USA: 5K5
1981-83 XJ550 Maxim Canada: 5K6

1981-83 XJ550 Seca USA: 4U8
1981-83 XJ550 Seca Canada: 4U9



650's:

1980-81 XJ650 Maxim USA: 4H7
1980-81 XJ650 Maxim Canada: 4H8

1981 XJ650 Midnight Maxim USA: 4W5
1981 XJ650 Midnight Maxim Canada: 4W6

1982-83 XJ650 Maxim USA: 5N8
1982-83 XJ650 Maxim Canada: 5N9

1982 XJ650 Seca USA : 5V2
1982 XJ650 Seca Canada: 5V3

1982-83 XJ650 Seca Turbo USA : 16G
1982-83 XJ650 Seca Turbo Canada: 16H



700's:

1985 XJ700 Maxim USA: 1FG (49-state version)
1985 XJ700 Maxim USA: 1JJ (California version)
1985 XJ700 Maxim Canada: 1FH

1985 XJ700 Maxim X USA : 1AA (49-state version)
1985 XJ700 Maxim X USA: 1FJ (California version)


1986 XJ700 Maxim USA: 1NH (49-state version)
1986 XJ700 Maxim USA: 1NK (California version)
1986 XJ700 Maxim Canada: 1NJ

1986 XJ700 Maxim X USA: 1NW (49-state version)
1986 XJ700 Maxim X USA: 1LT (California version)



750's:

1982 XJ750 Maxim USA: 15R
1982 XJ750 Maxim Canada: 15T

1983 XJ750 Maxim USA: 22R
1983 XJ750 Maxim Canada: 22T

1983 XJ750 Midnight Maxim USA: 33N
1983 XJ750 Midnight Maxim Canada: 33U

1981-83 XJ750 Seca USA: 5G2
1981-83 XJ750 Seca Canada: 5H2

1985 XJ750 Maxim X Canada: 1FL
1986 XJ750 Maxim X Canada: 1MY



900's:

1983 XJ900 Seca USA: 35H
1983 XJ900 Seca Canada: 31E



1100's:

1982 XJ1100 Maxim USA: 10M
1982 XJ1100 Midnight Maxim Canada: 11G

1983 XJ1100 Maxim Canada: 11G

1984 XJ1100 Midnight Maxim Canada: 11G




Let's see, we can now identify your bike in at least four different ways! Using our original "Build-A-Bike" example from above, we have:

1) by the shorty VIN: 4H7-101457

From the chart above, we know that the "4H7" MODEL ID designation is a 1980 or 1981 XJ650 Maxim, and from the serial number (101457), we previously learned that this serial number falls into the 1981 model year range of serial numbers.


2) By the full VIN: JYA4H7006BA101457

This identifies it as a XJ650 Maxim (the "4H7" part), and a 1981 model (the letter "B" in the 10th position).


3) We can call it by the Yamaha MODEL NAME: XJ650H

Recalling from before, the "H" suffix means it's a 1981 XJ650 model.


4) By the "STREET-NAME" common usage method:

"I've got a 1981 XJ650 Maxim".


Note how all of the following ways of expressing this one bike ARE ALL IDENTICAL:

1981 XJ650 Maxim
XJ650H
4H7-101457
JYA4H7006BA101457


Suppose we wanted to tell someone that the Atlanta Braves beat the Denver Rockies by a score of 3-2. We could say:

"The Braves beat the Rockies 3-2."
"Atlanta defeats Denver by 3-2."
"The final score is: The Braves 3, the Rockies 2."
"The Braves outscored the Rockies by 3-to-2."

and it all means the same thing.

The same thought applies to VINs, both long and short versions, and Model Names and Model ID Codes. They all mean the same thing. They all tell the same story. The all communicate the same essential information about your bike: make, model, and year.



OPERATORS ARE STANDING BY.........:

There's one other thing you need to know, but don't really want to know (I'm already ducking for cover as I write this......). It muddies the waters, it puts a fly in the ointment, and a monkey-wrench in the works, etc.

It's sad, but it's true, so here goes:

Remember way back when, we were talking about the long 17-position VIN, and we referred to positions 4-8 as the vehicle's "characteristics" field:

"The next 5-position field ("45678") identifies the vehicle characteristics, such a body style, engine type, MODEL, "platform", series, etc. Since Yamaha only identified these era bikes by their general MODEL TYPE, this field is always populated by the 3-position model (5N8, 5G2, 4H7, etc.) followed by two zeros (thus 5N800, 5G200, 4H700, etc.). Although Yamaha could have coded engine size, or paint color, or whatever else they wanted to into those extra two positions, they chose not to, and thus they are always filled with zeros."

Note that pesky word "platform". It has now come back to haunt us.

For a car, a "platform" refers to the basic standardized frame or unibody, and as you probably realize, many cars in the same "family" from a manufacturer all share the same basic frame, but with different body features (sheetmetal, trim, interiors, etc.) tacked on to create a different model.

Well, the same thought kinda-sorta applies to motorcycles, too......and in the two-wheeled word, the "platform" is the basic motorcycle frame.

The same frame can be used to create any number of different models. For example, think of a Midnight Maxim: it's the same as the standard Maxim model that it's based upon, but with a special paint scheme and other minor feature differences. HOWEVER, from a marketing point of view, it's a different "model", and thus carries a different MODEL NAME and a different MODEL ID code.

But it's the same frame underneath.

As an example for all those "curiosity kills the cat" type of fellas out there: the XJ750 Midnight Maxim DID (logically) share the same frame with a 1983 XJ750 Maxim but---obviously---not the same model ID:

1983 XJ750 Maxim = 22R MODEL ID
1983 XJ750 Midnight Maxim = 33N MODEL ID
But both bikes share the same FRAME ID = 22R

This is unlike the differences between, let's say, a 1982 XJ650 Maxim and a 1982 XJ650RJ Seca----although you might think that it's just minor cosmetic and feature differences (different seat, different gauge cluster, slightly different side covers and fuel tank and handlebars and other "bolt-on" items, etc.), in reality, their basic frame and structural components are different. Similar, perhaps, but quite unique: the steering head angle is different, as are the footpeg, sidestand, and engine mount locations and features (super-quick XJ-Factoid detour here: except for the XJ550 Seca models, all other Seca and the XJ650 Turbo model bikes do not use rubber insulators to mount the engine to the frame---as the Maxim models used---thus using the engine as an additional "stressed frame member" for additional frame rigidity.....and, also, as a sometimes added "buzz" and vibration-producing component!). Those two bikes are not only different marketing "models" (and thus use different MODEL NAMES and different MODEL ID Codes), but also use different "platforms" as well......meaning different FRAME ID Codes.

And the truth be known, the number that is stamped into the steering neck tube is really the FRAME ID CODE, and not the MODEL ID CODE.

For most bikes.....meaning 99% of them on the NORTH AMERICAN XJ models.....the Frame ID Code and the Model ID Code are one and the same. It's why this is such a mis-understood and rarely-discussed issue.

But this distinction occurs very frequently in the "rest-of-the-world" (non-North American) models, and when you review the list of full bike codes below, you'll see these differences quite a bit on those models.

And now you know why.........



And one last issue that creeps in, to help make a mess of things, applies mainly to later model bikes (primarily 1988-later, which means it only applies to the XJ900 series of bikes in our beloved XJ-series), although this same issue manifests itself in the entire Yamaha line, and even continues to this day.......and that is, Yamaha apparently felt that they were going to run out of unique 3-position MODEL ID CODES, so they switched to 4-position Model ID Codes (such as the 4BB1, 4BB2, etc. codes that are seen on the 1990-later XJ900 models). HOWEVER, the FRAME ID's continued to be expressed as the same 3-position field as had always been used (example: 1989 XJ900 Model ID Code is a 3NG1, but the Frame ID Code is 58L).

Many of these type of variations seem to predominate in bikes made for the smaller markets, where some type of non-standardized modifications had to be made to the "standard" version of the bike to meet local laws, primarily for the European markets (since at that time, the EU began trying to standardize the often-varying laws that could be found in differing European countries, some of which still remain to this day.......for example, British headlights must be aimed left-of-center, French bikes are limited in their maximum horsepower ratings, etc.). Thus new Model ID Codes started proliferating to meet such challenges.

Just another tiny tidbit of information to keep in mind.......!




THE FULL MONTY:

Okay, what follows is the whole, fine kettle of fish, with all of the Model ID Codes, Frame ID Codes, frame serial number ranges, and Model Names all rolled into one chart. With this information at hand, you can properly identify your bike (or any other XJ-series bike) that you come across with absolute certainty. PLEASE BE AWARE THAT IN ORDER TO PROPERLY ORDER PARTS FOR YOUR BIKE, IT IS NECESSARY TO KNOW WHICH MODEL YOU ACTUALLY HAVE, AS THERE CAN BE SUBTLE OR MAJOR DIFFERENCES BETWEEN VARIOUS MODELS OF OTHERWISE SIMILAR BIKES!

Also, please note that certain models, such as the XJ250, XJ400, and XJ500 models, while being very similar to their larger North American "brothers", were never offered in the USA or Canadian marketplace, and therefore are not covered in much (if any) detail in our product listings (and unfortunately we do not have the product interchange information available for those models).

FINALLY: although many other Yamaha series of bikes from this era, such as the XS-series, XV-series, and others may have used some parts that are interchangable with the XJ-series models, we generally do NOT have such information available. In many instances, parts that may seem to be "the same" between various model lines may indeed be the same parts, but most times there are small variations in design, fit, or specifications that make such components not suitable for interchange between different series of bikes.



XJ250 Models

1984 XJ250 MODELS:

COUNTRY: GUAM

MODEL NAME: XJ250L
STREET NAME: 1984 XJ250
MODEL ID CODE: 49W
FRAME ID: 5K5
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 200101



XJ400 Models

NOTE: XJ400 models were styled and equipped almost exactly like the North American XJ550 Seca model, but used the small 400cc YICS engine (and no front fairing).

1981 XJ400 MODELS:

COUNTRY: EUROPE

MODEL NAME: XJ400
STREET NAME: 1981 XJ400
MODEL ID CODE: 4V7
FRAME ID: 4V7
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101

MODEL NAME: XJ400
STREET NAME: 1981 XJ400
MODEL ID CODE: 5F8
FRAME ID: 4V7
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 100101


COUNTRY: JAPAN

MODEL NAME: XJ400
STREET NAME: 1981 XJ400
MODEL ID CODE: 4G0
FRAME ID: 4G0
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101

MODEL NAME: XJ400
STREET NAME: 1981 XJ400
MODEL ID CODE: 5M8
FRAME ID: 4G0
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 060101

MODEL NAME: XJ400H
STREET NAME: 1981 XJ400
MODEL ID CODE: 5M9
FRAME ID: 4G0
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 070101

MODEL NAME: XJ400
STREET NAME: 1981 XJ400 Special
MODEL ID CODE: 5L8
FRAME ID: 4G0
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 050101



1982 XJ400 MODELS:

COUNTRY: JAPAN

MODEL NAME: XJ400
STREET NAME: 1982 XJ400
MODEL ID CODE: 5M8
FRAME ID: 4G0
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 200101

MODEL NAME: XJ400
STREET NAME: 1982 XJ400
MODEL ID CODE: 5M9
FRAME ID: 4G0
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 100101



1983 XJ400 MODELS:

COUNTRY: EUROPE

MODEL NAME: XJ400
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ400
MODEL ID CODE: 28F
FRAME ID: 4V7
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 210101



COUNTRY: JAPAN

MODEL NAME: XJ400K
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ400
MODEL ID CODE: 39N
FRAME ID: 4G0
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 300101

MODEL NAME: XJ400Z
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ400
MODEL ID CODE: 33M
FRAME ID: 33M
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101

MODEL NAME: XJ400ZE
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ400
MODEL ID CODE: 53U
FRAME ID: 33M
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 080101

MODEL NAME: XJ400ZS
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ400
MODEL ID CODE: 35J
FRAME ID: 33M
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 025101


COUNTRY: OTHER

MODEL NAME: XJ400P
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ400
MODEL ID CODE: 24H
FRAME ID: 24H
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101



1992 XJ400 MODELS:

COUNTRY: JAPAN

MODEL NAME: XJ400S
STREET NAME: 1992 XJ400
MODEL ID CODE: 4BP1
FRAME ID: 4BP
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101


1993 XJ400 MODELS:

COUNTRY: JAPAN

MODEL NAME: XJ400S
STREET NAME: 1993 XJ400
MODEL ID CODE: 4BP2
FRAME ID: 4BP
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 025101



XJ500 Models

1981 XJ500 MODELS:

COUNTRY: EUROPE

MODEL NAME: XJ500
STREET NAME: 1981 XJ500
MODEL ID CODE: 5N4
FRAME ID: 5N4
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101


1983 XJ500 MODELS:

COUNTRY: EUROPE

MODEL NAME: XJ500
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ500
MODEL ID CODE: 27E
FRAME ID: 5N4
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 005101



XJ550 Models

NOTE: Although the North American market was treated to two different versions of the XJ550 model (Maxim and Seca versions), the rest of the world generally had only one version available, and that version is most similar to what is known as the XJ550 Seca model in North America. In addition, these "overseas" versions came equipped with dual front disc brakes, which unfortunately was never offered on the USA or Canadian versions.

Although not generally referred to in the overseas markets as "Seca" models (since there was only one model available, there was no need to give it a "name" needed to differentiate it between a base Maxim model), these overseas versions came equipped with the "scalloped" design fuel tank, fuel gauge package, and other special components which are normally found in the North American XJ550 Seca models.

Also, although the XJ550 "evolved" over time into both the FJ600 and XJ600 bikes in various markets, these bikes---although sharing some features and components with the earlier XJ550 models----are different enough in most components and design to have very limited product or service interchange, and as such, are not listed nor covered by us.



1981 XJ550 MODELS:

COUNTRY: USA

MODEL NAME: XJ550H Maxim
STREET NAME: 1981 XJ550 Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: 5K5
FRAME ID: 5K5
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101

MODEL NAME: XJ550RH Seca
STREET NAME: 1981 XJ550 Seca
MODEL ID CODE: 4U8
FRAME ID: 4U8
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101


COUNTRY: CANADA

MODEL NAME: XJ550H Maxim
STREET NAME: 1981 XJ550 Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: 5K6
FRAME ID: 5K6
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
USA MSRP PRICE: $ 2,299.00

MODEL NAME: XJ550RH Seca
STREET NAME: 1981 XJ550 Seca
MODEL ID CODE: 4U9
FRAME ID: 4U9
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
USA MSRP PRICE: $ 2,529.00


COUNTRY: EUROPE

MODEL NAME: XJ550
STREET NAME: 1981 XJ550
MODEL ID CODE: 4V8
FRAME ID: 4V8
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
NOTES: styling and features the same as North American XJ550 Seca model, has dual front disc brakes, no fairing, and an oil cooler.


COUNTRY: GERMANY

MODEL NAME: XJ550
STREET NAME: 1981 XJ550
MODEL ID CODE: 4V9
FRAME ID: 4V9
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
NOTES: styling and features the same as North American XJ550 Seca model, has dual front disc brakes, no fairing, and an oil cooler.


COUNTRY: OCEANIA

MODEL NAME: XJ550RH
STREET NAME: 1981 XJ550
MODEL ID CODE: 5F9
FRAME ID: 5F9
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
NOTES: styling and features the same as North American XJ550 Seca model, has dual front disc brakes, no fairing, and an oil cooler.



1982 XJ550 MODELS:

COUNTRY: USA

MODEL NAME: XJ550J
STREET NAME: 1982 XJ550 Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: 5K5
FRAME ID: 5K5
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 020101
USA MSRP PRICE: $ 1,999.00

MODEL NAME: XJ550RJ
STREET NAME: 1982 XJ550 Seca
MODEL ID CODE: 4U8
FRAME ID: 4U8
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 020101
USA MSRP PRICE: $ 2,599.00


COUNTRY: CANADA

MODEL NAME: XJ550J
STREET NAME: 1982 XJ550 Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: 5K6
FRAME ID: 5K6
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 020101

MODEL NAME: XJ550RJ
STREET NAME: 1982 XJ550 Seca
MODEL ID CODE: 4U9
FRAME ID: 4U9
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 020101


COUNTRY: EUROPE

MODEL NAME: XJ550
STREET NAME: 1982 XJ550
MODEL ID CODE: 26Y
FRAME ID: 4V8
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 200101
NOTES: styling and features the same as North American XJ550 Seca model, has dual front disc brakes, no fairing, and an oil cooler.


COUNTRY: OCEANIA

MODEL NAME: XJ550RJ
STREET NAME: 1982 XJ550
MODEL ID CODE: 5F9
FRAME ID: 5F9
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 020101
NOTES: styling and features the same as North American XJ550 Seca model, has dual front disc brakes, no fairing, and an oil cooler.




1983 XJ550 MODELS:

COUNTRY: USA

MODEL NAME: XJ550K
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ550 Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: 5K5
FRAME ID: 5K5
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 100101
USA MSRP PRICE: $ 2,599.00

MODEL NAME: XJ550RK
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ550 Seca
MODEL ID CODE: 4U8
FRAME ID: 4U8
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 100101
USA MSRP PRICE: $ 2,699.00


COUNTRY: CANADA

MODEL NAME: XJ550K
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ550 Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: 5K6
FRAME ID: 5K6
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 200101

MODEL NAME: XJ550RK
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ550 Seca
MODEL ID CODE: 4U9
FRAME ID: 4U9
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 200101


COUNTRY: EUROPE

MODEL NAME: XJ550
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ550
MODEL ID CODE: 27A
FRAME ID: 4V8
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 300101
NOTES: styling and features the same as North American XJ550 Seca model, has dual front disc brakes, no fairing, and an oil cooler.


COUNTRY: OCEANIA

MODEL NAME: XJ550RK
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ550
MODEL ID CODE: 31V
FRAME ID: 31V
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 001000


COUNTRY: OTHER

MODEL NAME: XJ550P
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ550
MODEL ID CODE: 24J
FRAME ID: 24J
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 100000



1984 XJ550 MODELS:

COUNTRY: EUROPE

MODEL NAME: XJ550L
STREET NAME: 1984 XJ550
MODEL ID CODE: 5K6
FRAME ID: 5K6
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 200101
NOTES: styling the same as North American XJ550 Maxim model.




XJ650 Models

NOTE: Although the North American market was treated to two major versions of the XJ650 model (Maxim and Seca versions), the rest of the world generally had only one version available, and that version is most similar to what is known as the XJ650RJ Seca model in North America.

Although not generally referred to in the overseas markets as "Seca" models (since there was only one model available, there was no need to give it a "name" needed to differentiate it between a base Maxim model), these overseas versions came equipped with the dual front disc brakes, "scalloped" design fuel tank, and other special components which are normally found in the North American XJ650RJ and XJ650RJC Seca models.

NOTE: it has been suggested (but not fully verified) that some late-production 1982 XJ650RJ and RJC Seca model bikes came equipped from the factory with 750 engines (rather than 650 engines). All 750 engines are YICS engines, of course; so if your XJ650RJ/RJC bike has a YICS engine in it, it would be wise to check and make sure that it is indeed a 650 engine rather than a 750 engine......this can be easily determined by looking on the forward side of the cylinder "jugs" casting. Along the centerline of the cylinders, towards the top edge (at the mating surface between top of jugs and bottom of head) will be the engine cc displacement cast into the metal.


1980 XJ650 MODELS:

COUNTRY: USA

MODEL NAME: XJ650G Maxim
STREET NAME: 1980 XJ650 Maxim-I
MODEL ID CODE: 4H7
FRAME ID: 4H7
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
USA MSRP PRICE: $ 2,749.00


COUNTRY: CANADA

MODEL NAME: XJ650G Maxim
STREET NAME: 1980 XJ650 Maxim-I
MODEL ID CODE: 4H8
FRAME ID: 4H8
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101


COUNTRY: EUROPE

MODEL NAME: XJ650
STREET NAME: 1980 XJ650
MODEL ID CODE: 4K0
FRAME ID: 4K0
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
NOTES: styling and features the same as North American XJ650RJ Seca model, has dual front disc brakes, an oil cooler, and uses the non-YICS 653cc engine.


COUNTRY: JAPAN

MODEL NAME: XJ650 Special
STREET NAME: 1980 XJ650 Special
MODEL ID CODE: 4L6
FRAME ID: 4L6
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
NOTES: styling the same as North American XJ650 Maxim model.





1981 XJ650 MODELS:

COUNTRY: USA

MODEL NAME: XJ650H
STREET NAME: 1981 XJ650 Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: 4H7
FRAME ID: 4H7
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 100101
USA MSRP PRICE: $ 2,899.00

MODEL NAME: XJ650LH
STREET NAME: 1981 XJ650 Midnight Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: 4W5
FRAME ID: 4W5
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000001
USA MSRP PRICE: $ 3,099.00


COUNTRY: CANADA

MODEL NAME: XJ650H
STREET NAME: 1981 XJ650 Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: 4H8
FRAME ID: 4H8
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 100101

MODEL NAME: XJ650LH
STREET NAME: 1981 XJ650 Midnight Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: 4W6
FRAME ID: 4W6
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000001


COUNTRY: JAPAN

MODEL NAME: XJ650 Special
STREET NAME: 1981 XJ650 Special
MODEL ID CODE: 10H
FRAME ID: 4L6
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 050101
NOTES: styling the same as North American XJ650 Maxim model.


COUNTRY: OCEANIA

MODEL NAME: XJ650H
STREET NAME: 1981 XJ650
MODEL ID CODE: 4K1
FRAME ID: 4K1
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
NOTES: styling and features the same as North American XJ650RJ Seca model, has dual front disc brakes, an oil cooler, and uses the non-YICS 653cc engine.


COUNTRY: OTHER

MODEL NAME: XJ650
STREET NAME: 1981 XJ650
MODEL ID CODE: 5K3
FRAME ID: 5K3
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
NOTES: styling and features the same as North American XJ650RJ Seca model, has dual front disc brakes and an oil cooler.



1982 XJ650 MODELS:

COUNTRY: USA

MODEL NAME: XJ650J
STREET NAME: 1982 XJ650 Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: 5N8
FRAME ID: 5N8
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
USA MSRP PRICE: $ 2,498.00

MODEL NAME: XJ650RJ
STREET NAME: 1982 XJ650 Seca
MODEL ID CODE: 5V2
FRAME ID: 5V2
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
USA MSRP PRICE: $ 2,899.00
NOTE: these bikes were painted silver, and did not use a YICS-equipped engine, but instead used the 1980-81 style non-YICS 653cc engine.

MODEL NAME: XJ650LJ
STREET NAME: 1982 XJ650 Seca Turbo
MODEL ID CODE: 16G
FRAME ID: 16G
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
USA MSRP PRICE: $ 4,399.00


COUNTRY: CANADA

MODEL NAME: XJ650J
STREET NAME: 1982 XJ650 Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: 5N9
FRAME ID: 5N9
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101

MODEL NAME: XJ650RJ
STREET NAME: 1982 XJ650 Seca
MODEL ID CODE: 5V3
FRAME ID: 5V3
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
NOTE: these bikes were painted silver, and did not use a YICS-equipped engine, but instead used the 1980-81 style non-YICS 653cc engine.

MODEL NAME: XJ650RJC
STREET NAME: 1982 XJ650 Seca Canadian
MODEL ID CODE: 15U
FRAME ID: 15U
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
NOTE: these bikes were painted red, had a YICS-equipped 653cc engine, and were probably not released until very late in the 1982 model year. Some of these bikes may have come with a factory-installed oil cooler.

MODEL NAME: XJ650LJ
STREET NAME: 1982 XJ650 Seca Turbo
MODEL ID CODE: 16H
FRAME ID: 16H
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101


COUNTRY: EUROPE

MODEL NAME: XJ650
STREET NAME: 1982 XJ650
MODEL ID CODE: 11N
FRAME ID: 4K0
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 055101
NOTES: styling and features the same as North American XJ650RJ Seca model, has dual front disc brakes and an oil cooler. UK model.

MODEL NAME: XJ650
STREET NAME: 1982 XJ650
MODEL ID CODE: 11T
FRAME ID: 11T
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
NOTES: styling and features the same as North American XJ650RJ Seca model, has dual front disc brakes and an oil cooler.


COUNTRY: GERMANY

MODEL NAME: XJ650
STREET NAME: 1982 XJ650
MODEL ID CODE: 11R
FRAME ID: 4K0
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 050101
NOTES: styling and features the same as North American XJ650RJ Seca model, has dual front disc brakes and an oil cooler.


COUNTRY: JAPAN

MODEL NAME: XJ650
STREET NAME: 1982 XJ650
MODEL ID CODE: 16F
FRAME ID: 4L6
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 060101

MODEL NAME: XJ650LJ
STREET NAME: 1982 XJ650 Seca Turbo
MODEL ID CODE: 17Y
FRAME ID: 17Y
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101


COUNTRY: OCEANIA

MODEL NAME: XJ650RJ
STREET NAME: 1982 XJ650
MODEL ID CODE: 14R
FRAME ID: 14R
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
NOTES: styling and features the same as North American XJ650RJ Seca model, has dual front disc brakes, an oil cooler, and uses a YICS-equipped engine

MODEL NAME: XJ650LJ
STREET NAME: 1982 XJ650 Seca Turbo
MODEL ID CODE: 17Y
FRAME ID: 17Y
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101



1983 XJ650 MODELS:

COUNTRY: USA

MODEL NAME: XJ650K
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ650 Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: 5N8
FRAME ID: 5N8
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 050101
USA MSRP PRICE: $ 2,999.00

MODEL NAME: XJ650LK
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ650 Seca Turbo
MODEL ID CODE: 16G
FRAME ID: 16G
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 050101
USA MSRP PRICE: $ 4,999.00


COUNTRY: CANADA

MODEL NAME: XJ650K
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ650 Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: 5N9
FRAME ID: 5N9
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 050101

MODEL NAME: XJ650RK
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ650 Seca
MODEL ID CODE: 20F
FRAME ID: 20F
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101

MODEL NAME: XJ650LK
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ650 Seca Turbo
MODEL ID CODE: 16H
FRAME ID: 16H
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 050101


COUNTRY: EUROPE

MODEL NAME: XJ650
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ650
MODEL ID CODE: 27F
FRAME ID: 4K0
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 070101
NOTES: styling and features the same as North American XJ650RJ Seca model, has dual front disc brakes and an oil cooler.

MODEL NAME: XJ650
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ650
MODEL ID CODE: 27G
FRAME ID: 4K0
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 200101
NOTES: styling and features the same as North American XJ650RJ Seca model, has dual front disc brakes and an oil cooler.

MODEL NAME: XJ650
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ650
MODEL ID CODE: 30K
FRAME ID: 4K0
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 300101
NOTES: styling and features the same as North American XJ650RJ Seca model, has dual front disc brakes and an oil cooler. Sold in Switzerland only.


COUNTRY: OTHER

MODEL NAME: XJ650K
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ650
MODEL ID CODE: 30U
FRAME ID: 30U
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
NOTES: styling and features the same as North American XJ650RJ Seca model, has dual front disc brakes and an oil cooler.




1984 XJ650 MODELS:

COUNTRY: CANADA

MODEL NAME: XJ650L
STREET NAME: 1984 XJ650 Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: 5N9
FRAME ID: 5N9
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 100101



1985 XJ650 MODELS:

COUNTRY: EUROPE

MODEL NAME: XJ650POLICE
STREET NAME: 1985 XJ650 Police Special
MODEL ID CODE: 1FF
FRAME ID: 37G
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 002101
NOTE: for the Spanish market.



1988 XJ650 MODELS:

COUNTRY: OTHER

MODEL NAME: XJ650P88
STREET NAME: 1988 XJ650 Police Special
MODEL ID CODE: 37G
FRAME ID: 37G
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101




XJ700 Models

NOTE: The North American market was treated to two different versions of the "XJ700" model (and, these bikes were never available overseas), the USA only received the smaller 700cc version of these bikes, which the Canadian market received both the 700cc and 750cc-engined versions. In addition, these bikes were produced in both a standard air-cooled version, and in a high-performance "Maxim-X" series that featured the 5-valves per cylinder "Genesis" engine, and these "X" models also featured a water-cooled engine block system.

Besides the engine-size and type differences, both the USA or Canadian versions are basically identical in design and features. The 750-engine versions of this bike (Canadian-only) are listed further below int he "XJ750 Models" section. ALL of the water-cooled, 750-engined versions of this "XJ700" style bike were the water-cooled versions and were "Maxim-X" models.


1985 XJ700 MODELS:

COUNTRY: USA

MODEL NAME: XJ700N
STREET NAME: 1985 XJ700 Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: 1FG
FRAME ID: 1FG
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
USA MSRP PRICE: $ 2,899.00

MODEL NAME: XJ700NC
STREET NAME: 1985 XJ700 Maxim California
MODEL ID CODE: 1JJ
FRAME ID: 1JJ
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
USA MSRP PRICE: $ 2,999.00

MODEL NAME: XJ700XN
STREET NAME: 1985 XJ700 Maxim-X
MODEL ID CODE: 1AA
FRAME ID: 1AA
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
USA MSRP PRICE: $ 3,499.00

MODEL NAME: XJ700XNC
STREET NAME: 1985 XJ700 Maxim-X, California
MODEL ID CODE: 1FJ
FRAME ID: 1FJ
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
USA MSRP PRICE: $ 3,699.00


COUNTRY: CANADA

MODEL NAME: XJ700N Maxim
STREET NAME: 1985 XJ700 Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: 1FH
FRAME ID: 1FH
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101



1986 XJ700 MODELS:

COUNTRY: USA

MODEL NAME: XJ700S
STREET NAME: 1986 XJ700 Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: 1NH
FRAME ID: 1NH
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
USA MSRP PRICE: $ 3,059.00

MODEL NAME: XJ700SC
STREET NAME: 1986 XJ700 Maxim-X, California
MODEL ID CODE: 1NK
FRAME ID: 1NKJ
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
USA MSRP PRICE: $ 3,099.00

MODEL NAME: XJ700XS
STREET NAME: 1986 XJ700 Maxim-X
MODEL ID CODE: 1NW
FRAME ID: 1NW
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
USA MSRP PRICE: $ 3,799.00

MODEL NAME: XJ700XSC
STREET NAME: 1985 XJ700 Maxim-X, California
MODEL ID CODE: 1LT
FRAME ID: 1LT
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
USA MSRP PRICE: $ 3,899.00


COUNTRY: CANADA

MODEL NAME: XJ700S Maxim
STREET NAME: 1986 XJ700 Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: 1NJ
FRAME ID: 1NJ
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101



CONTINUED IN NEXT POST.............

SECTION A:

INTRODUCTION: Model Identification Continued.

--Model ID/VIN's




XJ750 Models

NOTE: Although the North American market was treated to three different versions of the XJ750 model (Maxim/Midnight Maxim, Seca, and the previously mentioned XJ750 Maxim-X versions), the rest of the world generally had only one version available, and that version is most similar to what is known as the XJ750 Seca model in North America.

Although not generally referred to in the overseas markets as a "Seca" model (since there was only one model available, there was no need to give it a "name" needed to differentiate it between a base Maxim model), these overseas versions came equipped with the "scalloped" design fuel tank, gauge package, and other special components which are normally found in the North American XJ750 Seca models.


1981 XJ750 MODELS:

COUNTRY: USA

MODEL NAME: XJ750RH
STREET NAME: 1981 XJ750 Seca
MODEL ID CODE: 5G2
FRAME ID: 5G2
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
USA MSRP PRICE: $ 3,150.00


COUNTRY: CANADA

MODEL NAME: XJ750RH
STREET NAME: 1981 XJ750 Seca
MODEL ID CODE: 5H2
FRAME ID: 5H2
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101


COUNTRY: UNITED KINGDOM

MODEL NAME: XJ750
STREET NAME: 1981 XJ750
MODEL ID CODE: 5N1
FRAME ID: 5N1
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
NOTES: styling and features the same as North American XJ750 Seca model, has dual front disc brakes and an oil cooler.


COUNTRY: JAPAN

MODEL NAME: XJ750A
STREET NAME: 1981 XJ750
MODEL ID CODE: 5G8
FRAME ID: 5G8
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
NOTES: uses the XJ650RJ Seca frame, but has the 750 engine.



1982 XJ750 MODELS:

COUNTRY: USA

MODEL NAME: XJ750J
STREET NAME: 1982 XJ750 Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: 15R
FRAME ID: 15R
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
USA MSRP PRICE: $ 2,999.00

MODEL NAME: XJ750RJ
STREET NAME: 1982 XJ750 Seca
MODEL ID CODE: 5G2
FRAME ID: 5G2
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 100101
USA MSRP PRICE: $ 2,899.00


COUNTRY: CANADA

MODEL NAME: XJ750J
STREET NAME: 1982 XJ750 Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: 15T
FRAME ID: 15T
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101

MODEL NAME: XJ750RJ
STREET NAME: 1982 XJ750 Seca
MODEL ID CODE: 5H2
FRAME ID: 5H2
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 100101


COUNTRY: EUROPE

MODEL NAME: XJ750
STREET NAME: 1982 XJ750
MODEL ID CODE: 11M
FRAME ID: 11M
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
NOTES: styling and features the same as North American XJ750 Seca model, has dual front disc brakes and an oil cooler.


COUNTRY: OE

MODEL NAME: XJ750
STREET NAME: 1982 XJ750
MODEL ID CODE: 5N1
FRAME ID: 5N1
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 003101




1983 XJ750 MODELS:

COUNTRY: USA

MODEL NAME: XJ750K
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ750 Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: 22R
FRAME ID: 22R
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
USA MSRP PRICE: $ 3,299.00

MODEL NAME: XJ750MK
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ750 Midnight Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: 33N
FRAME ID: 22R
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 100101
USA MSRP PRICE: $ 3,599.00

MODEL NAME: XJ750RK
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ750 Seca
MODEL ID CODE: 5G2
FRAME ID: 5G2
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 150101
USA MSRP PRICE: $ 4,099.00


COUNTRY: CANADA

MODEL NAME: XJ750K
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ750 Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: ???
FRAME ID: ???
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101

MODEL NAME: XJ750MK
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ750 Midnight Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: 33U
FRAME ID: 22T
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 100101

MODEL NAME: XJ750MK
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ750 Midnight Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: 22T
FRAME ID: 22T
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101

MODEL NAME: XJ750RK
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ750 Seca
MODEL ID CODE: 5H2
FRAME ID: 5H2
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 110101


COUNTRY: EUROPE

MODEL NAME: XJ750
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ750
MODEL ID CODE: 28J
FRAME ID: 11M
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 050101
NOTES: styling and features the same as North American XJ750 Seca model, has dual front disc brakes and an oil cooler.

MODEL NAME: XJ750
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ750
MODEL ID CODE: 28M
FRAME ID: 11M
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 060101
NOTES: styling and features the same as North American XJ750 Seca model, has dual front disc brakes and an oil cooler.


COUNTRY: JAPAN

MODEL NAME: XJ750E-II
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ750
MODEL ID CODE: 29R
FRAME ID: 29R
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
NOTE: this model had a 750 engine in the XJ900 frame.

MODEL NAME: XJ750D
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ750
MODEL ID CODE: 5G8
FRAME ID: 5G8
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 020101
NOTE: this model features fuel injection.

MODEL NAME: XJ750
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ750 Police Special
MODEL ID CODE: 33V
FRAME ID: 33V
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 103001
NOTE: this model is a Police Special.

MODEL NAME: XJ750P
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ750 Police Special
MODEL ID CODE: 39Y
FRAME ID: 33V
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 110101
NOTE: this model is a Police Special, New Zealand model.


COUNTRY: OE

MODEL NAME: XJ750
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ750
MODEL ID CODE: 5N1
FRAME ID: 5N1
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 100101
NOTES: styling and features the same as North American XJ750 Seca model, has dual front disc brakes and an oil cooler.

MODEL NAME: XJ750P
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ750 Police Special
MODEL ID CODE: 37H
FRAME ID: 37H
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
NOTE: this model is a Police Special. White painted frame, swingarm, and steering crowns, may have used 900 cams.


COUNTRY: OTHER

MODEL NAME: XJ750P
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ750 Police Special
MODEL ID CODE: 24L
FRAME ID: 24L
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
NOTE: this model is a Police Special.



1984 XJ750 MODELS:

COUNTRY: CANADA

MODEL NAME: XJ750ML
STREET NAME: 1984 XJ750 Midnight Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: 22T
FRAME ID: 22T
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 110101

MODEL NAME: XJ750RL
STREET NAME: 1984 XJ750 Seca
MODEL ID CODE: 44X
FRAME ID: 44X
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
NOTE: 750 engine in an XJ900 frame. Approximately only 600 made.


COUNTRY: EUROPE

MODEL NAME: XJ750
STREET NAME: 1984 XJ750
MODEL ID CODE: 41Y
FRAME ID: 41Y
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
NOTES: styling and features the same as North American XJ750 Seca model, has dual front disc brakes and an oil cooler.


COUNTRY: AUSTRALIA

MODEL NAME: XJ750RL
STREET NAME: 1984 XJ750 Seca
MODEL ID CODE: 45T
FRAME ID: 45T
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
NOTE: 750 engine in an XJ900 frame. Approximately only 200 made.




1985 XJ750 MODELS:

COUNTRY: CANADA

MODEL NAME: XJ750XN Maxim
STREET NAME: 1985 XJ750 Maxim-X
MODEL ID CODE: 1FL
FRAME ID: 1FL
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101




1986 XJ750 MODELS:

COUNTRY: CANADA

MODEL NAME: XJ750XS
STREET NAME: 1986 XJ750 Maxim-X
MODEL ID CODE: 1MY
FRAME ID: 1MY
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101




900 Models

NOTE: Although available in the North American market for only one year (1983), the XJ900 models were actually the longest-running production version of any XJ-series bike of this era, and since so many of the sales of these bikes occurred in the "overseas" markets, it is hard to gather and portray information on many of those models (since we here in the USA generally do not have access to those sources of information). However, here are some general guidelines on these bikes that may perhaps prove interesting, if not valuable:

Most 1983-84 XJ900 models had an 853cc engine, which was later increased in size to an 891cc engine in late 1984-on. The North American XJ900RK model used the 853cc engine.

All of the 1983 and some early 1984 XJ900RK and XJ900RL models had an anti-dive front suspension system and DeCarbon remote-cannister rear shock absorbers, both of which were eliminated on the later models.

The 1983 XJ900RK models had a fork-mounted front fairing, which was prone to cause high-speed stability problems. The 1984-later models had a new, larger frame-mounted fairing, and some models were also fitted with a front "belly pan" surrounding the lower front exhaust header pipes and engine case area.


1983 XJ900 MODELS:

COUNTRY: USA

MODEL NAME: XJ900RK
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ900 Seca
MODEL ID CODE: 35H
FRAME ID: 35H
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
USA MSRP PRICE: $ 3,699.00
Note: 853cc engine, handlebar-mounted fairing.


COUNTRY: CANADA

MODEL NAME: XJ900RK
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ900 Seca
MODEL ID CODE: 31E
FRAME ID: 31E
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
Note: 853cc engine, handlebar-mounted fairing.


COUNTRY: EUROPE

MODEL NAME: XJ900F
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ900
MODEL ID CODE: 31A
FRAME ID: 31A
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
Note: 853cc engine, handlebar-mounted fairing, belly pan.

MODEL NAME: XJ900F
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ900
MODEL ID CODE: 32F
FRAME ID: 31A
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 030101
NOTE: Switzerland. 853cc engine, handlebar-mounted fairing, belly pan.


COUNTRY: OCEANIA

MODEL NAME: XJ900U
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ900
MODEL ID CODE: 33F
FRAME ID: 33F
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
NOTE: 853cc engine, handlebar-mounted fairing.




1984 XJ900 MODELS:

COUNTRY: EUROPE

MODEL NAME: XJ900
STREET NAME: 1984 XJ900
MODEL ID CODE: 42R
FRAME ID: 31A
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 032101
NOTE: Switzerland. 853cc engine, frame-mounted fairing.

MODEL NAME: XJ900
STREET NAME: 1984 XJ900
MODEL ID CODE: 42N
FRAME ID: 31A
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 034101
NOTE: 853cc engine, frame-mounted fairing.


COUNTRY: OTHER

MODEL NAME: XJ900
STREET NAME: 1984 XJ900
MODEL ID CODE: 48G
FRAME ID: 31A
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 003101
NOTE: Switzerland. 853cc engine, frame-mounted fairing.


COUNTRY: OCEANIA

MODEL NAME: XJ900RL
STREET NAME: 1984 XJ900 Seca
MODEL ID CODE: 47L
FRAME ID: 33F
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 001101
Note: 853cc engine, frame-mounted fairing, belly pan.



1985 XJ900 MODELS:

COUNTRY: EUROPE

MODEL NAME: XJ900
STREET NAME: 1985 XJ900
MODEL ID CODE: 58L
FRAME ID: 58L
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
NOTE: Finland, Germany, Sweden, and England. 891cc engine, frame-mounted fairing.

MODEL NAME: XJ900
STREET NAME: 1985 XJ900
MODEL ID CODE: 1FW
FRAME ID: 58L
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 010101
NOTE: France. 891cc engine, frame-mounted fairing.

MODEL NAME: XJ900
STREET NAME: 1985 XJ900
MODEL ID CODE: 1FW
FRAME ID: ???
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 013101
NOTE: Denmark, Germany, Norway, Sweden. 891cc engine, frame-mounted fairing.

MODEL NAME: XJ900
STREET NAME: 1985 XJ900
MODEL ID CODE: 58N
FRAME ID: 31A
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 050101
NOTE: Switzerland. 891cc engine, frame-mounted fairing.


COUNTRY: OCEANIA

MODEL NAME: XJ900N
STREET NAME: 1985 XJ900
MODEL ID CODE: 1FX
FRAME ID: 1FX
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
NOTE: 891cc engine, no fairing.

MODEL NAME: XJ900FN
STREET NAME: 1985 XJ900
MODEL ID CODE: 58M
FRAME ID: 58M
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
NOTE: 891cc engine, 891cc engine, frame-mounted fairing, non-air adjustable forks, non anti-dive system, belly pan.

MODEL NAME: XJ900Police
STREET NAME: 1985 XJ900 Police Special
MODEL ID CODE: 53M
FRAME ID: 33F
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 005101
NOTE: 891cc engine, frame-mounted fairing.



1986 XJ900 MODELS:

COUNTRY: EUROPE

MODEL NAME: XJ900
STREET NAME: 1986 XJ900
MODEL ID CODE: 1FW
FRAME ID: 58L
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 013101
NOTE: France. 891cc engine, frame-mounted fairing.



1987 XJ900 MODELS:

COUNTRY: EUROPE

MODEL NAME: XJ900F
STREET NAME: 1987 XJ900
MODEL ID CODE: 2HL
FRAME ID: 58L
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 020101
NOTE: Greece. 891cc engine, frame-mounted fairing, non-air adjustable forks, non anti-dive system, belly pan.

MODEL NAME: XJ900F
STREET NAME: 1987 XJ900
MODEL ID CODE: 58N
FRAME ID: 31A
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 051101
NOTE: Switzerland. 891cc engine, frame-mounted fairing, non-air adjustable forks, non anti-dive system, belly pan.


COUNTRY: OTHER

MODEL NAME: XJ900
STREET NAME: 1987 XJ900
MODEL ID CODE: 2UR
FRAME ID: 2UR
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
NOTE: 891cc engine, frame-mounted fairing.


COUNTRY: OCEANIA

MODEL NAME: XJ900T
STREET NAME: 1987 XJ900
MODEL ID CODE: 2HM
FRAME ID: 1FX
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 003101
NOTE: 891cc engine, frame-mounted fairing.



1989 XJ900 MODELS:

COUNTRY: EUROPE

MODEL NAME: XJ900
STREET NAME: 1989 XJ900
MODEL ID CODE: 3NG1
FRAME ID: 58L
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 029101
NOTE: 891cc engine, frame-mounted fairing.



1990 XJ900 MODELS:

COUNTRY: EUROPE

MODEL NAME: XJ900
STREET NAME: 1990 XJ900
MODEL ID CODE: 3NG2
FRAME ID: 58L
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 037101
NOTE: 891cc engine, frame-mounted fairing.



1991 XJ900 MODELS:

COUNTRY: EUROPE

MODEL NAME: XJ900F
STREET NAME: 1991 XJ900
MODEL ID CODE: 4BB1
FRAME ID: 4BB
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
NOTE: 891cc engine, frame-mounted fairing.



1992 XJ900 MODELS:

COUNTRY: EUROPE

MODEL NAME: XJ900F
STREET NAME: 1992 XJ900
MODEL ID CODE: 4BB2
FRAME ID: 4BB
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 008101
NOTE: 891cc engine, frame-mounted fairing.


NOTE: XJ900 models were sold off-and-on in other parts of the world up until 1994, and in some countries was marketed under the name of the XJ900S Diversion series of bikes.




1100 Models

1982 XJ1100 MODELS:

COUNTRY: USA

MODEL NAME: XJ1100J
STREET NAME: 1982 XJ1100 Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: 10M
FRAME ID: 10M
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101
USA MSRP PRICE: $ 4,099.00


COUNTRY: CANADA

MODEL NAME: XJ110MJ
STREET NAME: 1982 XJ1100 Midnight Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: 11G
FRAME ID: 11G
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 000101



1983 XJ1100 MODELS:

COUNTRY: CANADA

MODEL NAME: XJ1100K
STREET NAME: 1983 XJ1100 Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: 11G
FRAME ID: 11G
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 010101



1984 XJ1100 MODELS:

COUNTRY: CANADA

MODEL NAME: XJ110ML
STREET NAME: 1984 XJ1100 Midnight Maxim
MODEL ID CODE: 11G
FRAME ID: 11G
SERIAL NUMBER STARTS AT: 100101



THE TEST:

Here are a couple of real XJ bike VIN's (mostly culled from bikes listed for sale from eBay). Go ahead and identify them for what they really are.

16G004078

JYA1FH009FA000241

JYA10M006CA004270

5G2-107546

JYA4U8004BA004890


For extra credit, determine the missing VIN "check digit" in the following VIN's:

JYA4H700?AA00638

JYA5K500?CA027661

JYA5V300?CA000432


Anyone who got all the answers correct should stay after class and clean the erasers.



CONCLUSIONS:

If you're not confused yet, then you haven't studied carefully enough.

SECTION A:

INTRODUCTION:

--The Real Costs of Maintenance


Hint!: they arise (and rise!) from not doing things correctly in the first place!



An Insight:

"One of the reasons I kept this bike, even though I keep spending more and more time and money on it, is the simple fact that I will never have to take it to a mechanic. If something breaks I'll know how to fix it........if I am on a trip----I won't be at the mercy of a local repair shop (and I'd rather spend a couple hundred+ for new tools while on a trip if needed to do it myself then get ripped off).

In my opinion, this is what makes a 'biker' and a "guy who rides motorcycles" different."


An Observation:

It is a common myth that people believe that because these classic bikes are inexpensive to PURCHASE, that they are also inexpensive to MAINTAIN or REPAIR. That is the wrong, wrong, wrong way to think about it; a VERY BAD idea. Thinking like that will inevitably (almost 100% guaranteed) lead to frustration and added expense.

Among the many nice traits of these bikes is that they actually are simple enough for the average person to work on and to do repairs on SUCESSFULLY by themselves, as they were a pretty well-engineered design (except for the fusebox!) and very durable, easy to work on.

But "easy" doesn't mean "cheap" and if you are willing to skip steps in order to save a dollar or two, or a minute or two, then in many cases you're going to be doing that old Fram oil filter commercial thing: "you can pay me now, or you can pay me later". And that "future payment" is going to involve a lack of performance and more time and effort on your part until you eventually just give up, or buckle down and do things right.

The rule of thumb in the boating or aviation world is this: whatever you paid for the vehicle, expect to spend 10-20% PER YEAR of that purchase price in maintenance costs. Just because you could "afford" to buy the vehicle doesn't mean that you can "afford" the yearly preventative and service maintanence costs; and if not, well, then eventually you learn quickly why people say that a boat is just "a hole in the water that you throw money into". That's not really true, but that's what people who don't understand that on-going PROPER maintenance and repair costs need to be factored in when determining the real "price" of a bike, especially an older one which is going to require not just the normal on-going maintenance costs, but most probably also additional costs to make up for the previous owner(s) lack of proper maintenance.

The issue that arises with older vehicles is that the purchase price is quite low. That's a blessing, in some ways; but in other ways, that's bad because it lulls people into the belief that the maintenance "costs" (time AND money) will be cheap too. A MUCH BETTER WAY to understand it, I believe, is like this: IF your 1982 XJ650 Seca could be purchased BRAND NEW, today, the price would be $X (let's say, $8,000 ?). THEREFORE YOU SHOULD RELAISTICALLY EXPECT THE AVERAGE ANNUAL MAINTENANCE COSTS WILL BE $ 800 - $ 1,500 PER YEAR.

And never mind that maybe you get "free oil changes and service/maintenance" as part of a new-vehicle "warranty"---you PAID for those "free" maintenance costs in the purchase price of the bike, rather than in smaller chunks on down the road. In fact, "free" service warranties are really just a way of allowing a new vehicle purchaser of FINANCING those service and maintenance costs into the purchase price, rather than paying cash every 6 months for those maintenance and service fees.

And many (most?) OEM vehicle sellers make more money off their customers from those financing charges (assuming a purchaser finances through the OEM financing program, which most people do) than they make off building the vehicles! THAT'S why they offer the "free" service to you, so they can build up that purchase price, and thus financing fees, by "hiding" the 10-20% additional yearly costs into the purchase price. This gives people the completely wrong ideas and understanding about what the true, REAL costs of vehicle ownership are.

On used vehicles with no "free" warranty, those service and maintenance costs become very real, very quickly.

I understand and appreciate that some people are going to wildy disagree with me on the above statements, and that's cool. And since I offer parts for sale (for these bikes), many will say that I'm just trying to push people into spending needless amounts of money. Well, that's one possibility.

The other one is that the OEM engineers and manufacturers and experienced (honest) mechanics will also tell you pretty much exactly what I'm portraying here: doing things right actually saves you time and money in the long run, and that all complex mechanical objects (from your lawnmower on up) requires periodic, proper maintenance if you expect it to perform to the level it was designed to perform to, and have the life expectancy that it was designed for. These things aren't magic. They aren't due to luck. Having a bike perform properly is not akin to winning the lottery, i.e. some people get lucky and others don't and that's just life. If you dig deep, if you could stand over the shoulder of those who are successful and those who aren't, the ways in which success is determined are pretty clear-cut and straight-forward, as outlined above.

As are, unfortunately, the ways in which a lack of success are achieved.


A Great Question:

"Let me ask for your unbiased opinion.

Based on my calculations, I am looking at sinking $1000+ in this bike to get it in great shape. since you are very familiar with these bikes do you think it is worthwhile? I am torn, I am looking for a nice starter bike and this bike seems to fit that bill. I don't think I could get a nice bike for that price. If I did I would probably be looking at doing some of the same things that I need on this bike. Carb tune etc. My concern is that I spend 1000 now and then some thing else goes and then I am sinking another grand later.

Let me know what you think."


A Serious Answer:

Like you noted, you'll have to spend a bit of $$ now to both make up for previous owner's neglect, and also to acquire a lot of the tools needed to perform some of the tasks. The tool expenses will, of course, not repeat, but parts costs on older machines can and will be a factor. So you're looking at spending a significant amount of money up front, and with hopefully reduced amounts going forward into the future.

Of course, they are very nice starter bikes in the sense that they are relatively easy to ride and to work on, something that later model bikes can't always lay claim to. Plus you're going to learn A LOT about working on bikes with one of these! There's no real economic "value" to that besides satisfaction and knowledge and the ability to maintain/tune/etc. your bike in the future, which again goes further towards reducing the maintenance costs of the bike in the future.

Is it worth it? From a "can I sell it at a profit stand-point in a few months?" persepctive, the answer is: probably not. Although the prices of the bikes continue to escalate, parts and labor costs to put one of these into tip-top shape almost never get re-couped upon resale.

Hope these insights help with your decision making. They are great little bikes.


From Our Experience:

Since the carburetors are THE most troublesome (and thus most expensive) aspect of these bikes, let me offer a few dozen words and insights about them, their service, and expense:

These carbs are quite simple, mechanically speaking.

The process of making DARNED SURE that you get them unbelievably, positively zestfully clean is a matter of stick-to-it-ness and resisting all attempts to take "shortcuts" or to brush off the tedious aspects of it. Many of the passages in these carbs are tiny, and it's that "tiny-ness" that bites most people, as they don't want to or don't realize the amount of effort that has to be undertaken to deal with such small passages.

If you read through these forums, you'll see many tales of woe of people who are now "cleaning" their carbs for the 2nd, 3rd, or 4th time BEFORE they get it right. The problem is, they never really "cleaned" them correctly the first, 2nd, and 3rd time. After all of the frustration and hassle involved, by the time they get around to the 4th go-around, then they understand that when people who have SUCCESSFULLY rebuilt carbs say things like "you'd better make SURE that you get clear flow through each and every passage, and you'd better polish that piston diaphram bore", etc. aren't just saying that to be over-the-top retentive about their own habits and style of working on these carbs, what they're really doing is issuing an experienced WARNING: do it right, or keep doing it again, and again, and again. And although they're kind of fun little critters to play with, taking them all apart and putting Humpty Carby all back together again, well, it's time better spent on other things.

One last note: "cleaning" the carbs (internally, not just making them look pretty on the outside) is just one of the small subsets of tasks necessary to the proper REBUILDING of the carbs. I cannot stress this point enough. The use of the term "cleaning" is used as if it were the end goal of the process; in reality, the proper way to think about it would be this:

"A complete and exceptiional level of carb CLEANING is a vital and necessary part of the process of properly REBUILDING the carbs."

And what are the other componets of the rebuilding puzzle?

a) replacing the worn, missing, or necessary "wear parts" on the carb.

These would be the idle mixture o-rings, washers, and maybe even the springs.

The carb bowl gaskets.

The carb throttle shaft seals.

The float valve needles and seats.

Any incorrectly sized or damaged jets.

Inspection of the piston rubber disphram for any holes, thin spots, etc.


b) Proper "service" work to the carb bodies, especially:

- polishing the piston bore for silky smoothness.

- repair or clean up of any stripped threads in the carb bodies.

- replacement of any damaged or worn parts. In fact, the ability the recognize what is damaged and worn (besides the parts above which are designed to wear out) is the most difficult part of the entire task, since it requires a level of experience: are my needle tips worn? What, exactly, does a worn needle tip look like? How "smooth" is smooth enough? Etc. This is where the advice and experience of the members of this forum are invaluable.


c) Proper "settings" of the various components during re-assembly:

- the float heights

- the "basic or bench synch" of the throttle valves


d) On-bike "settings":

- first and foremost, the measurement and setting to specifications of the valve train (shim) clearancs. Failure to do this "wastes" 90% of your efforts involved with the carbs.

- final synch (using some type of mamometer and the YICS tool if your engine is YICS-equipped)

- idle mixture screw setting, preferrably using a Colortune plug.



One last thought about these carbs, since they are THE most troublesome aspects of these bikes, and something to consider:

- the four carbs concept is really neat looking, and certainly performance oriented to the extreme.

- for many of us who had lots of experience with automotive carbs, just beware that while these Hitachi and Mikuni carbs are a bit different in operation (and thus parts), a carb is a carb, and they're pretty basic little devices. The main difference is that the fuel circuit passages on these carbs can get bizarrely tiny, especially if you're used to working on automotive carbs (which have canyon-sized fuel passages compared to these carbs).

- like I've said, the cleanliness part is really just tedious work, with a couple of "tricks" thrown into the mix, given the small sizes you're having to deal with. The "rebuild" part is basic mechanical knowldege and skills, knowing which way to turn a screwdriver to loosen vs. tighten, when and how much force to use or not, being organized, stuff like that.

- but the "tuning" part will require some special tools, but no type of any rocket-science knowledge or skills----once you master the rebuild and tuning process with these bikes, you are pretty much a Carb Tuning God, as these carbs are about as "complicated" as it gets with carburators. I mean, VERY few vehicles have multi-carbs, not until you get to the really high-performance machines level in the automotive world.

- well, as "complicated as it gets" until you start adding pods, etc.----which if you do, I sure hope you've got every last one of the basics listed above down to a science, and you can do it all, properly, and blindfolded, too!

- finally, if you do not have a service manual(s) for your particular bike(s), and you're going to wrench on it and want to do things right, then the only thing I can surmise from such a course of action is:

a) you're already an expert, or.....

b) you aren't really serious about doing things right, and that's okay, too---just don't expect good, quick, or cheap results!

SECTION B:

LITERATURE: Owner's Manuals, Service Manuals, and other literature items.

--Service Manuals

--Owner's Manuals

NOTE!: All aftermarket service, workshop, and owner's manuals will feature varying levels of quality (especially picture or image quality) that can be far INFERIOR to that of an original printing manual.....they are "copies of a copy" and as such, image quality can degrade significantly.

Also, there will be quite a few errors (in specs, diagrams, parts ID, wiring diagrams, etc.) that occurred in original manuals, and are thus copied over to the aftermarket and reproduction manuals. This is unfortunate, but it is pretty much a "fact of life" in the vehicle service manual business!


SERVICE MANUALS:

Although it's fun to be adventurous, creative, and daring at times, wrenching on the bike is not one of those times......

Some people seem to think that working on a bike is "simple", and therefore they don't need a service manual. While we agree that for some operations and procedures this may be correct, for many of the routine maintenance tasks you're going to need a service manual in order to figure out what may seem, at first glance, to be a "simple" task (actually, those things that you think are really simple can be the most mind-bending in complexity, until you've done them a time or two.....).

So, our advice is don't be penny-wise and pound-foolish----if it helps at all, just think of a service manual as a very useful tool for your toolbox, just like the proper sized socket or screwdriver, and one that is necessary to do a job properly.


Aftermarket Service-Repair-Workshop Manuals:

lm1) The ever-popular Haynes or Clymer WORKSHOP MANUALS line of "enhanced" factory service manuals cover all major service, repair, rebuild, and maintenance procedures (sometimes in excruciating detail, and usually with many more pictures and illustrations than the factory service manual does), and also includes wiring diagrams and other useful specifications.


HCP1094 Clymer SERVICE-REPAIR-WORKSHOP MANUAL for all 1981-83 XJ550 models, as well as 1984-92 XJ600 and FJ600 models. Softcover, almost 300 pages, a must-have manual if you own one of these machines. Each:
$ 32.00


HCP1093 Haynes SERVICE-REPAIR-WORKSHOP MANUAL for all 1980-84 XJ650 (except Turbo) and XJ750 models, softcover, over 275 action-packed pages, a must-have manual if you own one of these machines. Each:
$ 29.00

NOTE: the 1984 XJ750RL Seca models (Canada and Australia only) models used the XJ900 frame and chassis with a 750 engine. In order to service this model correctly, you would need to purchase BOTH the Haynes HCP1093 and the HCP1092 manuals to fully cover all aspects of engine and chassis service.


HCP1092 Haynes SERVICE-REPAIR-WORKSHOP MANUAL for all 1983-94 XJ900 models, hardcover, over 210 pages, even has a nice color-coded wiring schematic, bless you guys at Haynes! Each:
$ 33.00



lm2) Original reprinted FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS are also available. These full-size manuals covers all aspects of diagnosis, repair, and assembly for specific model bikes. These brand new, official Yamaha manuals are one of those "must-have" tools if you're going to be wrenching on your own bike. Plenty of photographs, diagrams, flowcharts, wiring charts (some of them even being correct!), torque values, etc. NOTE: cover design, color, and appearance may differ from originals.

NOTE: originally, Yamaha would not release a new service manual for each year's production, unless there had been significant changes in design, service procedures, features, etc......and even in those cases, even if there HAD been significant changes, they would not release an entirely new service manual, but merely a "supplement" to the past service manual for that model, and that supplement would highlight only the changes to procedures, etc. that would need to be followed.

For example: the 1980 XJ650 Maxim---being the first model in the XJ650 series---was issued a service manual by Yamaha. The 1981 XJ650 model, having no significant differences from the 1980 model, used the same 1980 XJ650 service manual. However, the 1982 XJ650 Maxim models had a number of meaningful difference in service procedures (first and foremost, the introduction of the YICS cylinder head design and system, which required a different synchronization procedure, a variation to the engine teardown and re-build procedures, etc.).

Rather than publish a brand new service manual for the 1982 XJ650 Maxim models, Yamaha merely published a service manual Supplement and instructed dealers to use the 1980 XJ650 Base Service Manual along with the 1982 XJ650 Supplementary Service Manual to properly service those bikes.....after all, 90% of the procedures in the 1980 XJ650 "base" Service Manual still applied and were valid for the 1982 XJ650 Maxim models, so why publish an entire new manual, when just a "supplement" would work?

This same process applies to many of the original models and their service manuals. The 1982 XJ750 Maxim models, for instance, used that same 1980 XJ650 Maxim Service Manual as the "base manual", and had a 75-page XJ750J Supplementary Service Manual that was to be used in conjunction with the base (1980 XJ650) manual.

That was then.

This is now: all of the Supplementary Service Manuals are rolled into the front of the "base manuals" for the individual manuals listed as reprints below. So for instance, the 1982-3 XJ650 Maxim Service Manual has both the 1980 XJ650 "Base" Service Manual AND the 1982-3 XJ650 Supplementary Service Manual bound together into one book.....no need to acquire two different books to have all of the correct procedures for working on your 1983 XJ650 Maxim. Same thought applies to the XJ750 Maxim Service Manuals.....they have the "base" 1980 XJ650 Maxim Service Manual, and also the XJ750 Maxim Supplementary Manual all bound together into one book.

Some manuals, such as the XJ550 Maxim and Seca Service Manual, will be labeled (on the cover) as a 1981 XJ550 Maxim/Seca Service Manual, when in fact it covers all three model years.

So when you purchase one of the manuals listed below, rest assured that it will have ALL of the correct procedures and information that will apply to the specific models for which it is listed as covering.


Reprinted Original Service Manuals:

HCP1128 Reprinted factory SERVICE MANUAL covers all XJ550 Maxim and XJ550 Seca models 1981-83.
$ 84.95


HCP1134 Reprinted factory SERVICE MANUAL covers all XJ650 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models 1980-83.
$ 84.95


HCP1139 Reprinted factory SERVICE MANUAL covers all XJ650 Turbo models 1982-83. NOTE: the factory Yamaha manual for the XJ650 Turbo models is composed of the original 1980 XJ650G service manual, and an additional bound-in Turbo Supplement section of about 125 pages, and this manual was produced for the 1982 models.

Although there may have originally been a 1983 supplemental version also, we have never been able to locate one. Given that the meaningful differences between 1982 and 1983 XJ650 Turbo models are few, the 1982 version of the manual is the only thing available for 1983 owners .
$ 84.95


HCP1138 Reprinted factory SERVICE MANUAL covers all XJ650RJ Seca models 1982.
$ 84.95


HCP1143 Reprinted factory SERVICE MANUAL covers all XJ700 non-X models 1985-86.
$ 84.95


HCP1145 Reprinted factory SERVICE MANUAL covers all XJ700 "X" models 1985-86.
$ 84.95


HCP1151 Reprinted factory SERVICE MANUAL covers all XJ750 Seca models 1981-83. NOTE: the wiring diagram that is printed in this manual is not correct (at all) for these models. The correct wiring diagram can be found in the HCP1093 Haynes manual listed above.
$ 84.95

NOTE: the 1984 XJ750RL (Canada and Australia only) models used the XJ900 frame and chassis with a 750 engine. In order to service this model correctly, you would need to purchase BOTH an XJ900RK service manual and the XJ750 Seca 1981-83 service manual (or the HCP1093 Haynes manual) to fully cover all aspects of engine and chassis service.


HCP1152 Reprinted factory SERVICE MANUAL covers all XJ750 Maxim models 1982.
$ 84.95


HCP1154 Reprinted factory SERVICE MANUAL covers all XJ750 Maxim & Midnight Maxim models 1983.
$ 84.95


HCP1157 Reprinted factory SERVICE MANUAL covers all XJ900RK Seca models 1983.
$ 84.95


HCP1158 Reprinted factory SERVICE MANUAL covers all XJ1100 Maxim models 1982.
$ 84.95



NOTE: The question naturally arises: should you order the aftermarket Clymer or Haynes manual or the reprinted Yamaha Factory Service Manual (for those models that have both types available?). At the risk of sounding like a pushy salesman, I'd honestly have to answer this question with the advice: "Order both".

Although the aftermarket service manuals are adapted from the factory manuals---and thus there are some areas where there is quite a bit of similarity in content between the two manuals---there are enough areas where there are meaningful differences in the photographs, illustrations, and especially in the descriptive and instructive content that most people (meaning "non-professional mechanics") will appreciate having two different "versions" of the same procedure to refer to.



lm3) Original reprinted FACTORY OWNER'S MANUALS are now available. These small booklet-sized manuals covers all of the basic aspects of proper operation, controls, riding tips, basic preventative maintenance and repair, and assembly for specific model bikes. These brand new, official Yamaha manuals are one of those "must-have" tools if you're going to be wrenching on your own bike. NOTE: cover design, color, and appearance will differ from originals.


HCP1096 Reprinted factory OWNER'S MANUAL for XJ550 Maxim 1982. This manual can be successfully used for all 1981-83 XJ550 Maxim models, even though it will say "1982" on the cover.
$ 19.95


HCP1101 Reprinted factory OWNER'S MANUAL for XJ550 Seca 1983. This manual can be successfully used for all 1981-83 XJ550 Seca models, even though it will say "1983" on the cover.
$ 19.95


HCP1105 Reprinted factory OWNER'S MANUAL for XJ650 Maxim 1982. This manual can be successfully used for all 1980-83 XJ650 Maxim models, even though it will say "1982" on the cover.
$ 19.95


HCP1108 Reprinted factory OWNER'S MANUAL for XJ650 Maxim 1983. This manual can be successfully used for all 1980-83 XJ650 Maxim models, even though it will say "1983" on the cover.
$ 19.95


HCP1104 Reprinted factory OWNER'S MANUAL for XJ650 Midnight Maxim 1981.
$ 19.95


HCP1112 Reprinted factory OWNER'S MANUAL for XJ700 N/NC Maxim 1985.
$ 19.95


HCP1116 Reprinted factory OWNER'S MANUAL for XJ700 S/SC Maxim 1986.
$ 19.95


HCP1122 Reprinted factory OWNER'S MANUAL for XJ750 Seca 1982. This manual can be successfully used for all 1981-83 XJ750 Seca models, even though it will say "1982" on the cover.
$ 19.95


HCP1121 Reprinted factory OWNER'S MANUAL for XJ750 Maxim 1982. This manual can be successfully used for all 1982-83 XJ750 Maxim models, even though it will say "1982" on the cover. The section on the gauges and headlight/auxiliary light information will pertain only to the 1982 models, though.
$ 19.95


HCP1124 Reprinted factory OWNER'S MANUAL for XJ750 Midnight Maxim 1983.
$ 19.95


HCP1126 Reprinted factory OWNER'S MANUAL for XJ900RK Seca model 1983.
$ 19.95

************

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Paypal accepted. Worldwide shipping available. Shipping prices and insurance costs are NOT included in the prices of items unless specifically listed. Please write with your list of parts needs and I will be glad to quote your shipping costs to you.

You can either PM (Private Message) me through this website, e-mail us via the "email" button on the bottom of this post, or e-mail us directly at:

info @ xj4ever.com

PLEASE NOTE!: our e-mail address does NOT have spaces before or after the "@" symbol........the posting system on this website automatically adds blank spaces before and after that symbol as an anti-spam feature! Make sure you eliminate those blank spaces when sending us an e-mail! Our e-mail address does NOT have any blank spaces in it!!

PLEASE!: on each and every correspondence with us, please tell us what YEAR and MODEL bike you have (example: 1982 XJ650 Maxim) and what your NAME (first name, at least!) is......that information really makes life a bit easier for us, and insures a more timely and ACCURATE response from us back to you!

MORE XJ PARTS IN THE FOLLOWING POST!!

SECTION C:

FUEL SYSTEM ITEMS: Including Airboxes, Carbs, Intakes, Fuel Tanks, Petcocks, Gas Caps, Tank Mounts, Etc.

--Hitachi Parts


HITACHI CARB REBUILD PARTS:


NOTE: Hitachi carbs were originally used on all Yamaha XJ650 models (except Turbo models), all XJ750 models, and all XJ700 (non-"X") models. All other XJ models from this era (XJ550, XJ650 Turbo models, XJ700 "X" models, XJ900, and XJ1100 models) used Mikuni carbs.

NOTE: "OEM" refers to an original Yamaha factory part, whereas "Replacement" or "Aftermarket" refers to a part not made by Yamaha or one of their original suppliers. NOTE THAT AN "OEM" PART may be made by Yamaha's original supplier, even though such part is no longer serviced through the Yamaha factory parts system.


j1) XJ models Hitachi HSC32/HSC33 USED PARTS.....jets, bowls, bodies, diaphrams/slides, floats, brackets, screws, etc. I have multiple used sets of carbs that I can part out for the items that you need, let me know what specific parts you're looking for.



THROTTLE SHAFT REBUILD PARTS:


THROTTLE SHAFT SEALS:


aaa) Aftermarket Hitachi HSC32/33 series carb THROTTLE SHAFT V-SEALS (sometimes called an "O-Ring", but it's not!)...these are the seals on the outside of the carb body that the throttle shaft passes through. Uses 2 per carb, BUT......without taking the carbs apart from the rack, the only ones you can replace are the outer seals on the #1 and the #4 carbs. Unlike the QR-series "o-rings" that many people recommend using---AND WHICH DO NOT FIT PROPERLY---these "V-Seals" do have the correct O.D., I.D., and thickness to fit both the throttle shaft and the carb shaft seal bore recess correctly. These V-seals are a superior sealing solution versus any other product out there!


HCP38B Aftermarket Hitachi throttle shaft V-SEAL, single:
$ 4.00

HCP38BSET2 Aftermarket Hitachi throttle shaft V-SEALS, pair:
$ 7.75

HCP38BSET8 Aftermarket Hitachi throttle shaft V-SEALS, set of 8:
$ 28.95


COMMENTARY: These seals are a VERY common source of vacuum leaks into the carbs, making tuning (synch, colortune, etc.) somewhere between very difficult and next-to-impossible. And here's the dirty little secret that no one really talks about:

If you read through these boards often and enough---or any other websites or lists devoted to these XJ bikes----you'll find a common theme in regards to these bikes, and it goes something like this:

"My bike doesn't run right."

And 9 times out of 10, it's due to a carb problem. And to make matters worse, these bikes don't just use one carb, they use four, which means that the synchronization of the four carbs to each other is critical in order for them to perform properly.

And 95% of the problems with the carbs is this: they are dirty (more like filthy!) inside due to age, and these seals are worn out. But to replace these seals (and also to properly get the insides of the carbs absolutely, positively, ZESTFULLY! clean), you're gonna have to pull the carb rack apart. Although that task is not mechanically difficult....nor does it take any special tools to do it.....the re-assembly process will MERCILESSLY PUNISH the careless or impatient mechanic or hobbyist. A tremendous attention to detail and organization is needed before you begin to take these carbs apart, so that you will have all the proper notes, drawings, sketches, etc. to put humpty-dumpty back together again, properly.

Since most people lack those skills or discipline, you will find most of the experienced experts on the various boards and forums telling you to NOT take the carbs apart, and to forego the proper cleaning and parts replacement steps needed.

I'm not trying to tell you to do, or not to do the task properly yourself; all I can tell you is what my own personal experience is. If you have the proper tools, time, and organizational skills and the PATIENCE to do the job right, breaking a rack apart and doing the job properly isn't that difficult. If you don't, it's a nightmare.

And the other dirty little secret is this: before you can synch and tune your carbs properly, you MUST check and adjust your valve clearances (replace worn valve shims), or all the synching and colortuning in the world isn't going to give you optimal results.

Sorry to be the bearer of such bad news, but as always, the truth will set you free (or at least solve most of your tuning and performance issues!).

Luckily, all of the parts and special tools needed to perform a proper tune up ARE available. I guess we should appreciate the little things in life more than we usually do........


We also strongly recommend the purchase of a new set of throttle shaft butterfly retaining screws, as it is very common to strip the heads out of the original screws while removing them. Replacement screws are listed further below.

Also, you are going to find it next-to-impossible to properly remove the original screws without using the proper JIS-style screwdriver. Typical "American" style screwdrivers do not have the proper tip design to engage the slots on JIS-specifications screws (which all screws on Japanese bikes are) and tend to very easily strip out the screw heads. We offer both a complete 4-piece set of various sized JIS screwdrivers, but those people wanting only the correct size screwdriver for these throttle shaft screws should order the HCP5901 (size #2) screwdriver:


HCP5901 Aftermarket size #2 JIS-standards SCREWDRIVER, for m3-m5 sized screws.
$ 11.95

HCP5904 JIS-standards SCREWDRIVER SET. Japanese phillips drive screws have sharper corners than regular phillips screwdrivers so they won't turn out under heavy torque. In order to take advantage of this feature, and to avoid stripping out the JIS screw heads by using US-standard phillips screwdrivers, it's a good idea to invest in a set of quality JIS-standard screwdrivers. This set of 4 contains one each of #1, #2, #3, and #4 sized-tip screwdrivers, and this range of sizes will handle everything down to an M2 sized screw (that's tiny, smaller than the size of the petcock faceplate mounting screws) all the way up to screws bigger than anything I've seen used on these bikes. They all feature sturdy plastic handles, chrome plated steel shafts, and come in a handy vinyl storage pouch.
$ 37.95



bbb) Aftermarket Hitachi HSC32/33 series carb THROTTLE SHAFT SEAL PLASTIC SHIM WASHER...these washers go directly "outside" of the HCP904 o-rings or the HCP38B v-seals listed above. Same notes as listed above about the seals (regarding the ease of replacement) also applies to these shims. NOTE: these shims do NOT "wear out" like the seals do; you only need to replace them if your shim washers are broken or missing. ALSO: although these replacement shims have the correct O.D. and I.D. as the originals, they are only 1/2 the thickness of the originals, and thus you will have to use two (2) of these shim washers to replace one (1) original shim washer.

HCP39C Aftermarket Hitachi throttle shaft seal SHIM WASHER, single:
$ 2.00

HCP39CSET2 Aftermarket Hitachi throttle shaft seal SHIM WASHERS, pair:
$ 3.75

HCP39CSET4 Aftermarket Hitachi throttle shaft seal SHIM WASHERS, four shims:
$ 7.25

HCP39CSET16 Aftermarket Hitachi throttle shaft seal SHIM WASHERS, set of sixteen shims:
$ 20.00




THROTTLE SHAFT HARDWARE:

v5) Aftermarket Hitachi throttle shaft BUTTERFLY VALVE MOUNTING SCREW. Each round aluminum butterfly "valve" is held to the steel throttle shaft via two tiny phillips head screws. The throttle shaft has self-locking threads which makes the removal of these screws both a chore and usually results in a buggered phillips head slot. These replacement screws come in a variety of materials and drive styles. Use 2 per carb, 8 per entire carb rack.

Also, unless you have reasons for doing otherwise, I always recommend upgrading the butterfly valve retaining screws to the 18-8 stainless steel HCP2561 button head hex-key style-----they are more durable than stock phillips headed plain steel, and much easier to remove in the future if the need ever arises.


HCP1347 aftermarket Hitachi butterfly valve retaining SCREWS, pan-head standard alloy steel screw with a phillips-drive, each:
$ 1.00

HCP1347SET2 aftermarket Hitachi butterfly valve retaining SCREWS, pan-head standard alloy steel screw with a phillips-drive, set of 2:
$ 1.75

HCP1347SET8 aftermarket Hitachi butterfly valve retaining SCREWS, pan-head standard alloy steel screw with a phillips-drive, set of 8:
$ 5.00



HCP1348 aftermarket Hitachi butterfly valve retaining SCREW, pan head 18-8 stainless steel screw with a phillips-drive, each:
$ 1.50

HCP1348SET2 aftermarket Hitachi butterfly valve retaining SCREWS, pan head 18-8 stainless steel screw with a phillips-drive, set of 2:
$ 2.75

HCP1348SET8 aftermarket Hitachi butterfly valve retaining SCREWS, pan head 18-8 stainless steel screw with a phillips-drive, set of 8:
$ 10.00



HCP1349 aftermarket Hitachi butterfly valve retaining SCREW, low-profile hex-drive allen-head screw made from 18-8 stainless steel, each:
$ 1.50

HCP1349SET2 aftermarket Hitachi butterfly valve retaining SCREWS, low-profile hex-drive allen-head screw made from 18-8 stainless steel, set of 2:
$ 2.75

HCP1349SET8 aftermarket Hitachi butterfly valve retaining SCREWS, low-profile hex-drive allen-head screw made from 18-8 stainless steel, set of 8:
$ 10.00



HCP2561 aftermarket Hitachi butterfly valve retaining SCREW, low-profile hex-drive button-head screw made from 18-8 stainless steel, each:
$ 1.00

HCP2561SET2 aftermarket Hitachi butterfly valve retaining SCREWS, low-profile hex-drive button-head screw made from 18-8 stainless steel, set of 2:
$ 1.75

HCP2561SET8 aftermarket Hitachi butterfly valve retaining SCREWS, low-profile hex-drive button-head screw made from 18-8 stainless steel, set of 8:
$ 5.00



ts5) Hitachi HSC-32 and -33 series carb THROTTLE SHAFT RETAINER E-CLIP...these shaft retainer clips go directly "outside" of the plastic shim washers listed above on the #1 and #4 carbs only. Used on all XJ650 except Turbo, all XJ700 non-X, and all XJ750 models.


HCP6836 OEM throttle shaft end retaining E-CLIP, bright plated spring steel, each:
$ 3.50

HCP6836SET2 aftermarket throttle shaft end retaining E-CLIPS, set of 2:
$ 6.75


HCP905 aftermarket throttle shaft end retaining E-CLIP, black-phosphate coated spring steel as original, each:
$ 1.00

HCP905SET2 aftermarket throttle shaft end retaining E-CLIPS, set of 2:
$ 1.50


HCP2909 aftermarket throttle shaft end retaining E-CLIP, type 420 stainless spring steel, each:
$ 1.75

HCP2909SET2 aftermarket throttle shaft end retaining E-CLIPS, set of 2:
$ 3.00




HITACHI IDLE - PILOT MIXTURE SCREW PARTS:

NOTE: idle mixture screws are also referred to as "pilot mixture screws" or "pilot screws".

If you've never delved into the guts of your carburetor idle mixture screw port, it can sometimes be confusing. Here's the playbook for this critical area:

If we were looking at a cut-away of the carb body/idle mixture screw bore, the order of parts, from bottom to top, would be:

a) HCP895 o-ring
b) HCP896 spring seat washer
c) HCP6573 tension spring
d) the idle mixture screw
e) the anti-tamper cap.

What is mostly confusing is the order of the o-ring versus the spring seat washer....which goes in the hole first? The answer is that the HCP895 O-ring does. The HCP896 washer primarily acts as the lower "seat" for the HCP6573 tension spring, while also keeping the o-ring firmly and securely in place.




ims83) Aftermarket replacement IDLE MIXTURE SCREWS (sometimes referred to as pilot screws, or pilot mixture screws, or "those stripped out things in that hole up front"), for all Hitachi HSC-32 and -33 series carbs as used on XJ650 (except Turbo), all XJ750 Maxim and Seca models, and XJ700 non-X (air-cooled) carbs. Correct reproduction screws are available in the original styles to exactly replace damaged, stripped, or missing originals.

The original screws were available in three versions:

a) Alloy steel, with coarse-pitch threads, used on 1980-81 XJ650 Maxim and Midnight Maxim model carbs. The best description I can give for "coarse" threads is that the threads are sized much like you would see on a standard screw (like the carb bowl drain screws, etc.).....the threads are rather "wide apart". This is in contrast to..........

b) Alloy steel, with ultra-fine-pitch threads, used on 1982-up XJ650 models with Hitachi carbs, all XJ750 Maxim and Seca models, and possibly on early model XJ700 non-X Hitachi HSC33 series carbs. Ultra-fine thread pitch looks like screw threads used on some kind of jeweler's or watchmaker's incredibly-closely-spaced threads.

c) Brass, with ultra-fine-pitch threads, used only in XJ700 non-X Hitachi HSC33 series carbs.


Note that the determination of which style screw YOUR carbs have can vary from what MODEL AND YEAR bike you have, as someone may have switched a carb body, an entire rack of carbs, or due to original mass-production and supplier differences and timing of production.

ALL ORIGINAL HITACHI IDLE MIXTURE SCREWS ARE IDENTICAL AS TO FUNCTION AND DIFFER ONLY BY THEIR THREAD PITCH (coarse versus ultra-fine) AND THE MATERIAL THEY WERE MADE OF (alloy steel versus brass). Owners of carbs with the ultra fine-pitch threaded screws CANNOT use coarse-thread pitch screws, and vice-versa.

However, owners of carbs with the (much more common) ultra-fine pitch threaded bores and screws can use either the steel or brass screws interchangeably----although we recommend sticking with one or the other in a full rack of carbs.

Why did Hitachi change from using coarse thread (1980-81) to fine-threaded screws? Who knows, but it probably has something to do with the fineness of the adjustability needed for these precision mixture screws.....a fine-threaded screw offers a much more precise level of fine-tuning adjustability than a coarse-threaded screw does ("coarse-pitch" screws move the screw further along it's bore for each given amount of turning, so a 1/4-revolution turn of a coarse-pitch screw will move that screw FURTHER up or down in its bore than the same 1/4-revolution turn will move a fine-pitched screw).

Thus the standard advice of using the 2.5-to-3 turns out (from bottoming) as a "starting point" for the idle mixture screw setting is really based on the use of the fine-pitched screws; the earlier coarse-pitch screws would need to be initially set at about 1.5-to-2 turns out as an initial starting point.

More questions from the audience: Why did Hitachi change from using steel screws (most 1980-83 model carbs) to brass screws (1985-86 models)? Who know, but it was either a cost saving measure (brass is not normally cheaper than steel, but it is much easier to machine precisely), or, given how these screws are known for seizing up in their bores, perhaps it was to provide a material that was not as susceptible to seizure (such as brass).

Either way, since you will be using some anti-seize fluid when installing your new screw (or even when re-using your old screws during a rebuild), this is not really an issue any more. Right? RIGHT? I mean, you WILL use anti-seize, won't you?

These idle mixture screws are exact reproductions of the originals, with the original straight-blade screw head, and are available in either the coarse-pitch in a Type 304 stainless steel material (instead of the original alloy steel), or in the fine pitch versions----and the fine pitch versions are available in either a Type 304 stainless steel material (instead of the original alloy steel) or screw-grade Brass.


HCP8392 Aftermarket Hitachi stainless steel IDLE MIXTURE SCREW with coarse threads, for all Hitachi HSC32 carbs with coarse threads in the idle mixture bore holes. Normally found on 1980-81 XJ650 models, but this "rule" may vary, so check your original screws or carb bore threads before ordering. Each:
$ coming soon!

HCP8392SET4 Aftermarket Hitachi stainless steel IDLE MIXTURE SCREWS with coarse threads, set of 4:
$ coming soon!



HCP8392KIT Aftermarket Hitachi stainless steel IDLE MIXTURE SCREW KIT with coarse threads, complete with one each of an HCP8392 stainless steel mixture screw, an HCP895 O-ring, the HCP6573 tension Spring, and the HCP896 spring seat Washer. Does one carb:
$ coming soon!

HCP8392KIT4 Aftermarket Hitachi stainless steel IDLE MIXTURE SCREW KITS with coarse threads, set of 4 does one entire rack of carbs:
$ coming soon!





HCP8393 Aftermarket Hitachi stainless steel IDLE MIXTURE SCREW with ultra-fine threads, for all Hitachi HSC-32 and -33 series carbs with fine threads in the idle mixture bore holes. Normally found on 1982-84 XJ650 models and all XJ750 models, but those "rules" may vary, so check your original screws or carb bore threads before ordering. Each:
$ 14.95

HCP8393SET4 Aftermarket Hitachi stainless steel IDLE MIXTURE SCREWS with ultra-fine threads, set of 4:
$ 54.95



HCP8393KIT Aftermarket Hitachi stainless steel IDLE MIXTURE SCREW KIT with ultra-fine threads, complete with one each of an HCP8393 stainless steel mixture screw, an HCP895 O-ring, the HCP6573 tension Spring, and the HCP896 spring seat Washer. Does one carb:
$ 19.95

HCP8393KIT4 Aftermarket Hitachi stainless steel IDLE MIXTURE SCREW KITS with ultra-fine threads, set of 4 does one entire rack of carbs:
$ 69.95





HCP8394 Aftermarket Hitachi brass IDLE MIXTURE SCREW with ultra-fine threads, for all Hitachi HSC-32 and -33 series carbs with fine threads in the idle mixture bore holes. Sometimes found on original 1983 XJ650 and XJ750 carbs, and always used on 1985-86 XJ700 non-X (air-cooled) models, but these "rules" may vary, so check your original screws or carb bore threads before ordering. Each:
$ coming soon!

HCP8394SET4 Aftermarket Hitachi brass IDLE MIXTURE SCREWS with ultra-fine threads, set of 4:
$ coming soon!



HCP8394KIT Aftermarket Hitachi brass IDLE MIXTURE SCREW KIT with ultra-fine threads, complete with one each of an HCP8394 brass mixture screw, an HCP895 O-ring, the HCP6573 tension Spring, and the HCP896 spring seat Washer. Does one carb:
$ coming soon!

HCP8394KIT4 Aftermarket Hitachi brass IDLE MIXTURE SCREW KITS with ultra-fine threads, set of 4 does one entire rack of carbs:
$ coming soon!




ddd) Aftermarket Hitachi IDLE MIXTURE SCREW O-RING.....a "must-replace" item when rebuilding your carbs. Made of long-lasting, fuel-resistant Buna-N material.

HCP895 Aftermarket Hitachi idle mixture screw O-RING, each:
$ 1.50

HCP895SET4 Aftermarket Hitachi idle mixture screw O-RINGS, set of 4:
$ 4.95


eee) Aftermarket Hitachi IDLE MIXTURE SCREW SPRING SEAT WASHER.....also a "must-replace" item when rebuilding your carbs. Made of long-lasting, fuel- and water-resistant 18-8 stainless steel material.

HCP896 Aftermarket Hitachi idle mixture screw spring seat WASHER, each:
$ 1.75

HCP896SET4 Aftermarket Hitachi idle mixture screw spring seat WASHERS, set of 4:
$ 5.95



ims6) Aftermarket carb IDLE MIXTURE SCREW TENSION SPRING, brand new reproductions exactly replace damaged, rusted, or missing originals. High-strength carbon-steel coil springs have a baked yellow-zinc plating as original.

HCP6573 Aftermarket reproduction idle mixture screw TENSION SPRING, fits all Hitachi HSC32 and HSC33 model carbs as used on all XJ650 (except Turbo), XJ700 non-X, and all XJ750 models, each:
$ 3.50

HCP6573SET4 Aftermarket reproduction idle mixture screw TENSION SPRINGS, fits all Hitachi HSC32 and HSC33 model carbs as used on all XJ650 (except Turbo), XJ700 non-X, and all XJ750 models, set of 4:
$ 10.95



HCP2398 THREAD CHASER & CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed uncoated steel. For use on all Hitachi idle mixture screw ports, for models using ultra-fine threaded idle mixture screws. NOTE: these threaded holes almost always need cleaning or re-tapping.
$ 33.00

HCP6335 THREAD CHASER & CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed uncoated steel. For use on all Hitachi idle mixture screw ports, for models using coarse threaded idle mixture screws. NOTE: these threaded holes almost always need cleaning or re-tapping.
$ 24.00



HCP254 Idle Mixture Screw REMOVAL AND ADJUSTER TOOL, fits all Hitachi models and all Mikuni idle mixture screws.
$ 17.95



HITACHI IDLE SPEED SCREW PARTS:

Not to be confused with the idle MIXTURE screw listed above, the IDLE SPEED SCREW is the large knurled-head screw that lives dead center, at the bottom of the carb rack, in-between the #2 and #3 cars, and pointing straight back. This screw is used to adjust the idle speed of the engine, and has no effect on the idle mixture nor the carb (engine) "synch" settings!


HCP9849 Aftermarket Hitachi idle speed screw rubber GROMMET, fits into the lower carb rack bracket opening where the idle speed screw enters the bracket. This replacement grommet is quite a bit larger than the stock grommet, but fits and works properly. Use a little bit of silicone grease on the screw's shaft where it passes through this grommet and it will be silky-smooth in operation. Fits all XJ650 (except Turbo), XJ700 non-X, and XJ750 models using Hitachi carbs.
$ 1.95


HCP4024 Aftermarket Hitachi carb idle speed screw WASHER, not an original part, but if you use a set of these thin flat plastic shimming washers in-between the spring and the screw, and between the spring and the bracket (in other words, on either end of the spring), it greatly reduces the friction between the two and makes the idle screw silky-smooth to adjust! Fits all XJ650 (except Turbo), XJ700 non-X, and XJ750 models using Hitachi carbs. Each:
$ 0.75




FUEL PIPE O-RINGS:

mmm1) OEM and Aftermarket Hitachi fuel rail Connector Pipe O-RING.....all fours carbs share a common fuel supply, and this fuel supply is distributed to each carb via a brass or aluminum tube that connects one carb to another. These tubes fits into a machined bores in the carb base, and the tubes are sealed in their bores with these rubber o-rings. NOTE: original seals were "D-rings" rather than "O-rings", but are now serviced only as o-rings (both OEM and replacements), but are the correct shape and firmness to provide a leak-proof fit. You will only be able to access these seals if you break the carbs out of their rack! (and if you do break the rack, you need to replace these seals). Aftermarket seals comes in your choice of either a lower-cost Buna-N material, or a longer-life Viton material. Either one will work just fine and last until the next time you take your carbs apart!

The viton material is much harder than the Buna-N material and the use of the viton seals requires quite a bit of effort to install the connector tube into the carb fuel port bores!

- Use 2 seals per tube, or a total of 6 seals per entire carb rack, for HSC32 series carbs (XJ650 except Turbo, XJ750 all).

- Use 2 seals per tube, or a total of 10 seals per entire carb rack, for HSC33 series carbs (all XJ700 non-X models).


HCP92 OEM Hitachi fuel supply tube O-RING, each:
$ 1.50

HCP92SET2 OEM Hitachi fuel supply tube O-RINGS, each:
$ 2.75

HCP92SET6 OEM Hitachi fuel supply tube O-RINGS, set of 6:
$ 7.50

HCP92SET10 OEM Hitachi fuel supply tube O-RINGS, set of 10:
$ 9.00



HCP2421SET2 Aftermarket Hitachi Buna-N material fuel supply tube O-RINGS, pair:
$ 2.00

HCP2421SET6 Aftermarket Hitachi Buna-N material fuel supply tube O-RINGS, set of 6:
$ 4.95

HCP2421SET10 Aftermarket Hitachi Buna-N material fuel supply tube O-RINGS, set of 10:
$ 7.50



HCP2420SET2 Aftermarket Hitachi Viton material fuel supply tube O-RINGS, pair:
$ 2.50

HCP2420SET6 Aftermarket Hitachi Viton material fuel supply tube O-RINGS, set of 6:
$ 6.95

HCP2420SET10 Aftermarket Hitachi Viton material fuel supply tube O-RINGS, set of 10:
$ 8.95




HITACHI MAIN FUEL JETS:


ee) Aftermarket Hitachi brass MAIN FUEL JETS, sizes as follows, fits all XJ650 (except Turbo), all XJ750, and all XJ700 (exc. "X") models.

NOTE: stock Hitachi XJ series carbs used the following original sizes:

#102: XJ750E-II models (cylinders #2 & #3)

#105: XJ750E-II models (cylinders #1 & #4)

#106: 1984 XJ750RL Seca models.

#107: all XJ700 non-X models.

#110: all XJ650 North American models (except 1982-84 Canadian models) and all 1980-81 XJ650 UK/European (4K0 and 4K1) models.

#112: all 1982-84 XJ650 UK/European (11N and 14R) models and 1982-84 XJ650 Canadian models.

#120: all XJ750 North American and UK/European models except the 1984 XJ750RL models.

All the other sizes are for "tuning" or re-jetting purposes when changing intakes or exhaust systems.


HCP10228 Aftermarket brass #102 MAIN FUEL JET, stock size for XJ750E-II models, each:
$ 7.95

HCP10228SET4 Aftermarket brass #102 MAIN FUEL JETS, set of 4:
$ 27.95


HCP10229 Aftermarket brass #105 MAIN FUEL JET, stock size for XJ750E-II models, each:
$ 7.95

HCP10228SET4 Aftermarket brass #105 MAIN FUEL JETS, set of 4:
$ 27.95


HCP6316 Aftermarket brass #106 MAIN FUEL JET, stock size for '84 XJ750RL Seca models, each:
$ 7.95

HCP6316SET4 Aftermarket brass #106 MAIN FUEL JETS, set of 4:
$ 27.95


HCP6317 Aftermarket brass #107 MAIN FUEL JET, stock size for XJ700 non-X models, each:
$ 7.95

HCP6317SET4 Aftermarket brass #107 MAIN FUEL JETS, set of 4:
$ 27.95


HCP6318 Aftermarket brass #108 MAIN FUEL JET, each:
$ 7.95

HCP6318SET4 Aftermarket brass #108 MAIN FUEL JETS, set of 4:
$ 27.95


HCP6319 Aftermarket brass #109 MAIN FUEL JET, each:
$ 7.95

HCP6319SET4 Aftermarket brass #109 MAIN FUEL JETS, set of 4:
$ 27.95


HCP10601 Aftermarket brass #110 MAIN FUEL JET, stock size for most XJ650 models, each:
$ 6.95

HCP10601SET4 Aftermarket brass #110 MAIN FUEL JETS, set of 4:
$ 24.95


HCP10602 Aftermarket brass #112 MAIN FUEL JET, each:
$ 6.95

HCP10602SET4 Aftermarket brass #112 MAIN FUEL JETS, set of 4:
$ 24.95


HCP8366 Aftermarket brass #114 MAIN FUEL JET, each:
$ 6.95

HCP8366SET4 Aftermarket brass #114 MAIN FUEL JETS, set of 4:
$ 24.95


HCP10082 Aftermarket brass #116 MAIN FUEL JET, each:
$ 6.95

HCP10082SET4 Aftermarket brass #116 MAIN FUEL JETS, set of 4:
$ 24.95


HCP10606 Aftermarket brass #118 MAIN FUEL JET, each:
$ 6.95

HCP10606SET4 Aftermarket brass #118 MAIN FUEL JETS, set of 4:
$ 24.95


HCP8365 Aftermarket brass #120 MAIN FUEL JET, stock size for most XJ750 models, each:
$ 6.95

HCP8365SET4 Aftermarket brass #120 MAIN FUEL JETS, set of 4:
$ 24.95


HCP10607 Aftermarket brass #122 MAIN FUEL JET, each:
$ 6.95

HCP10607SET4 Aftermarket brass #122 MAIN FUEL JETS, set of 4:
$ 24.95


HCP10608 Aftermarket brass #124 MAIN FUEL JET, each:
$ 6.95

HCP10608SET4 Aftermarket brass #124 MAIN FUEL JETS, set of 4:
$ 24.95


HCP10609 Aftermarket brass #126 MAIN FUEL JET, each:
$ 6.95

HCP10609SET4 Aftermarket brass #126 MAIN FUEL JETS, set of 4:
$ 24.95


HCP10610 Aftermarket brass #128 MAIN FUEL JET, each:
$ 7.95

HCP10610SET4 Aftermarket brass #128 MAIN FUEL JETS, set of 4:
$ 27.95


HCP10611 Aftermarket brass #130 MAIN FUEL JET, each:
$ 7.95

HCP10611SET4 Aftermarket brass #130 MAIN FUEL JETS, set of 4:
$ 27.95


HCP10612 Aftermarket brass #132 MAIN FUEL JET, each:
$ 7.95

HCP10612SET4 Aftermarket brass #132 MAIN FUEL JETS, set of 4:
$ 27.95


HCP11152 Aftermarket brass #134 MAIN FUEL JET, each:
$ 7.95

HCP11152SET4 Aftermarket brass #134 MAIN FUEL JETS, set of 4:
$ 27.95




xx3) Reproduction Hitachi main fuel jet SPACER WASHER, round flat copper washer goes under the head of the main fuel jet. Perfectly replaces missing or bowed originals.

HCP887 Hitachi carbs main fuel jet SPACER WASHER, each:
$ 4.50

HCP887SET4 Hitachi carbs main fuel jet SPACER WASHERS, set of 4:
$ 14.95




HITACHI MAIN AIR JETS:

The main air jets on all Hitachi HSCxx series carbs are located under the vacuum piston diaphram, and are a small, brass "headless" screw-in jet. On some model carbs, these air jets live under a small, curved flay metal "cover plate" which is retained by a special shouldered screw (most later-model Hitachi carbs seem to have dispensed with this air jet cover plate, although its threaded mounting hole still remains in the carb body).

Replacement Hitachi main air jets are now available for these model carbs, in both their original sizes and in optional "tuning" sizes for use with pod filters or other special tuning purposes.


#50: all XJ650 models.

#70: all XJ700 non-X models, XJ750RL Seca models, and XJ750E-II models.

#80: all 1981-83 XJ750 North American models and 1981-84 XJ750 UK/European (11M) models.


NOTE: the Haynes workshop manual for the XJ650 and XJ750 models has the incorrect placement noted for these air jets----the main air jet and pilot air jets are reversed in their picture and caption. Just remember that the main air jet goes directly above the main fuel jet, and is thus located in the "center" of the three holes in this area.


HCP6305 Aftermarket Hitachi brass MAIN AIR JET #40, not an original size, used for fuel mixture tuning purposes only. Each:
$ 8.95

HCP6306 Aftermarket Hitachi brass MAIN AIR JET #45, not an original size, used for fuel mixture tuning purposes only. Each:
$ 8.95

HCP6307 Aftermarket Hitachi brass MAIN AIR JET #50, original size for all XJ650 models. Each:
$ 7.95

HCP6308 Aftermarket Hitachi brass MAIN AIR JET #55, not an original size, used for fuel mixture tuning purposes only. Each:
$ 8.95

HCP6309 Aftermarket Hitachi brass MAIN AIR JET #60, not an original size, used for fuel mixture tuning purposes only. Each:
$ 8.95

HCP6310 Aftermarket Hitachi brass MAIN AIR JET #65, not an original size, used for fuel mixture tuning purposes only. Each:
$ 8.95

HCP6311 Aftermarket Hitachi brass MAIN AIR JET #70, original size for all XJ700 non-X (air-cooled) models, XJ750RL Seca models, and XJ750E-II models. Each:
$ 7.95

HCP6312 Aftermarket Hitachi brass MAIN AIR JET #75, not an original size, used for fuel mixture tuning purposes only. Each:
$ 8.95

HCP6313 Aftermarket Hitachi brass MAIN AIR JET #80, original size for all XJ700 non-X (air-cooled) models, XJ750RL Seca models, and XJ750E-II models. Each:
$ 7.95

HCP6314 Aftermarket Hitachi brass MAIN AIR JET #85, not an original size, used for fuel mixture tuning purposes only. Each:
$ 8.95

HCP6315 Aftermarket Hitachi brass MAIN AIR JET #90, not an original size, used for fuel mixture tuning purposes only. Each:
$ 8.95





HITACHI PILOT FUEL JETS:

ff) Aftermarket Hitachi PILOT FUEL JET, sizes as follows, fits all XJ650 (except Turbo), all XJ750, and all XJ700 (exc. "X") models.

NOTE: stock Hitachi XJ series carbs used the following original sizes:

#36.5: all XJ700 non-X models.

#40: all 1980-83 XJ650 USA models, 1980-81 XJ650 Canadian models, 1982 XJ650RJ and RJC Seca Canadian models, 1980-82 XJ650 UK/European (4K0) models, 1981-83 all XJ750 USA models, XJ750E-II models, and XJ750RL models. NOTE: the factory service manual references a pilot air fuel jet for the XJ750RL models as being either a #40 or a #41 size. We are not sure which size is actually correct.

#43: all 1982-84 XJ650 Canadian models, 1982-84 XJ650 UK/European (11N and 14R) models, 1981-83 XJ750 Maxim, Midnight Maxim Canadian models, and 1981-84 XJ750 UK/European (11M) models.

The #41, #42, and #45 sizes can also be used for "tuning" or re-jetting purposes when changing intakes or exhaust systems.



HCP6321 Aftermarket brass #36.5 PILOT FUEL JET, each:
$ 6.95

HCP6321SET4 Aftermarket brass #36.5 PILOT FUEL JETS, set of 4:
$ 24.95


HCP885 Aftermarket brass #40 PILOT FUEL JET, each:
$ 6.95

HCP885SET4 Aftermarket brass #40 PILOT FUEL JETS, set of 4:
$ 24.95


HCP886 Aftermarket brass #41 PILOT FUEL JET, each:
$ 6.95

HCP886SET4 Aftermarket brass #41 PILOT FUEL JETS, set of 4:
$ 24.95


HCP6326 Aftermarket brass #42 PILOT FUEL JET, each:
$ 6.95

HCP6326SET4 Aftermarket brass #42 PILOT FUEL JETS, set of 4:
$ 24.95


HCP6320 Aftermarket brass #43 PILOT FUEL JET, each:
$ 6.95

HCP6320SET4 Aftermarket brass #43 PILOT FUEL JETS, set of 4:
$ 24.95


HCP9661 Aftermarket brass #45 PILOT FUEL JET, each:
$ 7.95

HCP9661SET4 Aftermarket brass #45 PILOT FUEL JETS, set of 4:
$ 27.95


HCP9815 Aftermarket brass #46 PILOT FUEL JET, each:
$ 7.95

HCP9815SET4 Aftermarket brass #46 PILOT FUEL JETS, set of 4:
$ 27.95


HCP9816 Aftermarket brass #47 PILOT FUEL JET, each:
$ 7.95

HCP9816SET4 Aftermarket brass #47 PILOT FUEL JETS, set of 4:
$ 27.95


HCP12616 Aftermarket brass #50 PILOT FUEL JET, each:
$ 7.95

HCP12616SET4 Aftermarket brass #50 PILOT FUEL JETS, set of 4:
$ 27.95




HITACHI PILOT AIR JETS:

The pilot air jets on all Hitachi HSCxx series carbs are located under the vacuum piston diaphram, and are a small, brass "headless" screw-in jets. On some model carbs, these air jets live under a small, curved "cover plate" which is retained by a special shouldered screw (most later-model Hitachi carbs seem to have dispensed with this air jet cover plate, although its threaded mounting hole still remains in the carb body).

Replacement Hitachi pilot air jets are now available for these model carbs, in both their original sizes and in optional "tuning" sizes for use with pod filters or other special tuning purposes.


#195: all 1980-81 all XJ650 North American models, all 1982 XJ650RJ and RJC Seca, and 1980-82 XJ650 UK/European (4K0 and 4K1) models.

#205: all 1982-84 XJ650 Maxim North American models, 1982-84 XJ650 UK/European (11N) models, 1981-83 XJ750 Canadian models, and 1981-84 XJ750 UK/European (11M) models.

#210: all XJ700 non-X models.

#225: all 1982 XJ650 UK/European (14R) models, all 1981-83 XJ750 USA models, XJ750E-II models, and XJ750RL models.


NOTE: the Haynes workshop manual for the XJ650 and XJ750 models has the incorrect placement noted for these air jets----the main air jet and pilot air jets are reversed in their picture and caption. Just remember that the pilot air jet goes directly above the pilot fuel jet, and is thus located in the "forward-most" of the three holes in this area.


HCP6289 Aftermarket Hitachi brass PILOT AIR JET #175, not an original size, used for fuel mixture tuning purposes only. Each:
$ 8.95

HCP6290 Aftermarket Hitachi brass PILOT AIR JET #180, not an original size, used for fuel mixture tuning purposes only. Each:
$ 8.95

HCP6291 Aftermarket Hitachi brass PILOT AIR JET #185, not an original size, used for fuel mixture tuning purposes only. Each:
$ 8.95

HCP6292 Aftermarket Hitachi brass PILOT AIR JET #190, not an original size, used for fuel mixture tuning purposes only. Each:
$ 8.95

HCP6293 Aftermarket Hitachi brass PILOT AIR JET #195, original size for all 1980-81 all XJ650 North American models, all 1982 XJ650RJ and RJC Seca, and 1980-82 XJ650 UK/European (4K0 and 4K1) models. Each:
$ 7.95

HCP6294 Aftermarket Hitachi brass PILOT AIR JET #200, not an original size, used for fuel mixture tuning purposes only. Each:
$ 8.95

HCP6295 Aftermarket Hitachi brass PILOT AIR JET #205, original size for all 1982-84 XJ650 Maxim North American models, 1982-84 XJ650 UK/European (11N) models, 1981-83 XJ750 Canadian models, and 1981-84 XJ750 UK/European (11M) models. Each:
$ 7.95

HCP6296 Aftermarket Hitachi brass PILOT AIR JET #210, original size for all 1985-86 XJ700 air-cooled engines. Each:
$ 7.95

HCP6297 Aftermarket Hitachi brass PILOT AIR JET #215, not an original size, used for fuel mixture tuning purposes only. Each:
$ 8.95

HCP6298 Aftermarket Hitachi brass PILOT AIR JET #220, not an original size, used for fuel mixture tuning purposes only. Each:
$ 8.95

HCP6299 Aftermarket Hitachi brass PILOT AIR JET #225, original size for all 1982 XJ650 UK/European (14R) models, all 1981-83 XJ750 USA models, XJ750E-II models, and XJ750RL models. Each:
$ 7.95

HCP6300 Aftermarket Hitachi brass PILOT AIR JET #230, not an original size, used for fuel mixture tuning purposes only. Each:
$ 8.95

HCP6301 Aftermarket Hitachi brass PILOT AIR JET #235, not an original size, used for fuel mixture tuning purposes only. Each:
$ 8.95

HCP6302 Aftermarket Hitachi brass PILOT AIR JET #240, not an original size, used for fuel mixture tuning purposes only. Each:
$ 8.95

HCP6303 Aftermarket Hitachi brass PILOT AIR JET #245, not an original size, used for fuel mixture tuning purposes only. Each:
$ 8.95

HCP6304 Aftermarket Hitachi brass PILOT AIR JET #250, not an original size, used for fuel mixture tuning purposes only. Each:
$ 8.95




WHAT ABOUT RE-JETTING FOR PODS, ETC?:

It's a question we get asked often and unfortunately, one that we cannot answer honestly about your specific bike besides with "it depends".

Which is a nice way of saying "you're about to enter the seventh circle of hell......."!

Carb jet tuning required by aftermarket modifications is somewhat of a black art, part science, part skill, part luck. It depends on the current state of tune of your engine, your altitude, the mix of aftermarket parts on your bike, etc........a lot of variables.

The best advice we can offer is: Just Say No. Don't do it! Leave everything stock!

But, since most people---with good reason, I might add---don't always listen to our well-intentioned advice, then the next best recommendation we can offer is: "if you want more power get a bigger bike!".

And since that doesn't cut it with many owners, either, for the remaining stalwarts out there who insist on "experimenting" with aftermarket intake and exhaust systems, here's the best information that we've come across to give you some GUIDANCE, which you should take as just that, and not as ANSWERS, because it isn't!



MAIN FUEL JET SIZE CHANGES NEEDED PER TYPICAL MODIFICATION:


Typical Exhaust Changes:

+2 main fuel jet size for custom 4-into-2 exhaust

or

+4 main fuel jet sizes for 4-into-1 exhaust

or

+4 main jet sizes for no muffler (open headers)


Typical Intake Changes:

+2 main fuel jet sizes for single K&N filter (inside a stock airbox)

or

+2 main fuel jet size for drilling holes in the airbox with stock filter

or

+4 main fuel jet sizes for individual pod filters (no airbox)


Additional changes:

- Add up all the main fuel jet size increases and subtract 2 sizes.

- Decrease main fuel jet size by 2 sizes per every 2000' above sea level.

- Under a mis-match condition, such as when using pod filters with a 100% stock exhaust, or 4-into-1 header with stock filter and air box, then subtract 2 main fuel jet sizes.



PILOT FUEL JET SIZES CHANGES NEEDED PER TYPICAL MODIFICATION:

Pilot fuel jet size changes are related only to the change in main fuel jet sizes according to the main fuel jet size formula described above. Note that this pilot fuel jet rule is for the main fuel jet size change BEFORE any main fuel jet altitude compensation is factored in:

Increase the pilot fuel jet size +1 for every +3 main fuel jet size increases.

Additional changes:

- Decrease pilot fuel jet size by 1 for every 6000' above sea level.



PRECAUTIONS:

- Make sure your carbs are in perfect working order before making ANY jet changes....meaning fully cleaned internally and rebuilt, operating properly in their stock configuration, proper sized air jets and needles, etc. Otherwise, you'll like find that all of your efforts are going to be a HUGE waste of time.

- Check plug color often and adjust as needed, 2 main fuel jet sizes at a time and 1 pilot fuel jet size at a time. Bright white plug insulators are a sign of an overly lean fuel mixture condition and WILL cause damage to your engine over time, up to and including engine seizure!

- Synch the carbs after each jet change.

- Make sure the floats are set correctly

- Seriously consider purchasing a Colortune Plug Tuning kit.

- You may find it necessary to make changes to the size or shimming of the main jet needle. There are no guidelines on what or how to do these changes, this is true trial-and-error tuning!



EXAMPLE:

A 1982 XJ750RJ Seca using an aftermarket Supertrapp 4-into-1 exhaust and a single K&N air filter in the stock, unmodified airbox. Bike is primarily operated at an altitude of 2600 feet above sea level.

XJ750 Seca Stock Hitachi HSC32 Carb Jetting:

#120 Main Fuel Jet
#40 Pilot Fuel Jet
#50 Main Air Jet
#225 Pilot Air Jet
Y-13 Needle


MAIN FUEL JET SIZE CALCULATIONS:

Changes made:

Exhaust:
4 into 1 with Supertrapp = +4 Sizes Main Fuel Jet

Intake:
K&N Pod Filters = +4 sizes Main Fuel Jet
----------------------------
Equals: +8 main fuel jet sizes above baseline
Subtract: -2 main fuel jet size per formula above
----------------------------
Equals: +6 main fuel jet sizes due to modifications, thus:

Stock main fuel jet size is: #120
+ 6 additional sizes
= a #126 main fuel jet size
---------------------------
Subtract: -2 main fuel jet sizes for Altitude of 2500' Average

= #126 calculated from above
-2 jet sizes for altitude adjustment

= a #124 main fuel jet size.


PILOT FUEL JET SIZE CALCULATIONS:

The formula is: +1 pilot jet size increase for every +3 main jet sizes increased.

Stock pilot fuel jet size is: #40
+ 2 additional jet sizes (since we went up +6 main fuel jet sizes before the altitude compensation was factored in):

= a #42 pilot fuel jet size.

Note that no altitude compensation is needed on the pilot fuel jet since our elevation is less than 6000' a-s-l.


------------------------------

RESULT:

A #124 Main and #42 Pilot is A GOOD STARTING POINT.

******************************************************

Note that the above calculations do NOT take into account any possible changes in the sizes of the air jets nor the main needle size, which are additional variables and opportunities for tuning excellence (or frustration!).

For further insights and understanding, the Holy Grail (meaning: the whole miserable, un-varnished truth of what a real chore carb tuning is going to be, written by people who actually know what they're talking about, rather than by people who are trying to sell you something) can be found at:

www.factorypro.com

and then click on the "Product Support/Technical Support" link at the top of the page, then on the "Motorcycle Tuning Tech" link, and then the "CV Carb Tuning" link........and then read, weep, study, and do....if you still dare to! HINT: if reading through it makes you think to yourself "sheesh, this sounds like an incredible amount of effort!", well, you're right! That's just some of the joys (and pitfalls) of getting to play "tuning engineer", which is what you're going to be doing. Yamaha probably has 10 of those types of guys on staff, and millions of dollars of test equipment, both physical and computer-aided, that allowed them to get the mixture settings just right---from an overall drivability AND power output standpoint----and now, since you're changing the airflow parameters thru the engine, you'll have to figure it all out "from scratch", but WITHOUT the benefit of 10 trained engineers and all that test equipment and experience.

That's why we warn you that setting up a bike for pods can be quite a bit of trial-and-error procedure. You can make the calculations according to what is shown in that guideline and then order the jets that the "formula" recommends, and that should serve as a good STARTING POINT............you may (or may not!) have to do more tuning and trial-and-erroring substitution of different jet sizes, etc. to get it performing to you satisfaction, with the recognition that you may ALWAYS end up with a situation that has some kinds of trade-offs.....lazy at the lower end but runs well at mid/upper-ranges, or runs well at the lower end but a "flat-spot" at some other rpm range, etc. Unfortunately there is no magic formula........you might want to read through the factorypro.com article that I list at the end of that section, and you will get a better understanding of what is involved to get the carbs set-up properly in a non-stock configuration.



CARB FLOAT BOWL PARTS:

gg) OEM and aftermarket Hitachi FLOAT BOWL GASKETS & O-RINGS:

Die-cut replacement carb bowl-to-carb body gaskets correctly replace your torn or leaking originals. Fits all XJ650 (except Turbo), all XJ700 non-X, and all XJ750 models with Hitachi carbs.


HCP50 OEM Hitachi carb BOWL GASKET, single:
$ 6.50

HCP50SET4 OEM Hitachi carb BOWL GASKETS, set of 4:
$ 22.95


HCP862 Aftermarket Hitachi carb BOWL GASKET, single:
$ 4.00

HCP862SET4 Aftermarket Hitachi carb BOWL GASKETS, set of 4:
$ 14.95


Okay, everyone asks, so here goes: should you use the OEM Yamaha or the aftermarket bowl gaskets? Well, the OEM Yamaha gaskets look and feel more substantial, and have a somewhat waxy coating to them, which is there for a reason I suppose---probably has to do with the longevity of the gasket when the float bowls are being removed and replaced quite often. HOWEVER, I've used both the OEM and the replacement bowl gaskets on my own bikes and carb sets and have never had either style leak. I make more money selling the aftermarket gaskets, but for the small difference in price, if you're not on an ultra-tight budget, I'd use the OEM gaskets on my own personal bikes..........just my thoughts.

ALSO: if you use any type of sealant on these gaskets, use it on the BOWL side of the gasket (something like Permatex Copper Spray-A-Gasket is a fine choice). On the carb body side of the gasket, use a light oil....like Marvel Mystery Oil or the like....and barely moisten the gasket surface. This will allow the new gasket to soften slightly and allows the gasket to form itself to the raised mounting ridge that is cast onto the carb body mating flange.....and also allows for an easy, no-stick removal of the float bowl in the future!




CARB FLOATS & FLOAT NEEDLE VALVES:

NOTES on float needle valve Seats and Needles:

- original seats had a fuel inlet boss (where the inlet filter screen sits) of either 5.10mm (and uses a flat screen) or a 6.57mm boss with a 7.30mm "lip" (this style uses a domed screen).

- The HCP1 kit comes without a screen but the float seat has a 5.10mm screen mounting boss, so an original FLAT screen can be used with these if you still have your original flat screens. The needle is slightly longer (about 1mm) than on the HCP10 needle. The needle seat Washer is made of a stiff fiber material, as opposed to the original metal washer.

- The HCP10 kit comes with a flat screen and the float seat has a 5.10mm screen mounting boss. The needle is slightly shorter than on the HCP1 needle. The needle seat Washer is made of copper as original.

- The HCP872 and HCP2776 kits comes with a screen and the float seat has a 4.53mm screen mounting boss. The needle is slightly longer (about 1mm) than on the HCP10 needle. The needle seat Washer is made of metal like original, but it's aluminum rather than copper.

- There is a third style of seat and it uses a "domed" style screen. The mounting boss for the screen on the seat is 7.25mm OD and it is "stepped". This style seat and screen are not currently available.

- The HCP870 Needle Only uses a needle that is slightly taller (about 1mm) than stock. It is the same needle as used in the HCP872 complete kit.

- On all of the float needles that use a retaining clip, please note that the clip can be installed in two different ways (oreientations). User experience seems to indicate that positioning the clip so that the "open" area of the clip (that part of the clip that snaps over ridge on the top of the needle) should be oriented towards the "back" of the carbs; in other words, the open area should be towards the airbox.


QUESTION: does it matter which style float seat/needle/etc. is used in your carbs?

ANSWER: Not really, although it's probably best (but not absolutely necessary) to make sure that all 4 carbs use the same style set-up. Also, while it states that the kits that have the same height needles "may not" require float level re-adjustment after installation, I wouldn't count on it. You should ALWAYS check and adjust your float levels anytime you go into your carbs----and periodically even if you don't! I know, it's a pain-in-the-tail light to adjust the float levels----but correct float levels really will help make sure that your bike performs at its best.



fs17) OEM Hitachi FLOAT NEEDLE VALVE ASSEMBLY---contains the float valve Needle with retainer clip, float valve needle brass screw-in Seat, and the metal seat Washer. The seat DOES include the filter screen, but this kit does NOT include the idle mixture screw block-off cap. NOTE: the float Needle that comes with this set is approximately the same height as the factory Yamaha needle, and it may not be necessary to re-adjust the float level height after installation.

For all XJ650 (except Turbo), all XJ750, and all XJ700 (except "X") models:

HCP10 OEM Hitachi Float Needle VALVE ASSMEBLY, single:
$ 64.00

HCP10SET4 OEM Hitachi Float Needle VALVE ASSMEBLIES, set of 4:
$ 239.00


fs3) Aftermarket Hitachi FLOAT VALVE NEEDLE ONLY (includes the retainer clip)...for those who wish to do an extreme-budget rebuild, you can buy the rubber-tipped float valve needle by itself (without its brass seat). Needle includes its hanger/retainer arm clip. NOTE: this Needle is approximately 1mm taller than a factory Yamaha needle, and will require that you re-adjust the float level height after installation. For use on all XJ650 (except Turbo) models, all XJ700 non-X models, and all XJ750 models.

HCP870 Aftermarket Hitachi float valve NEEDLE with clip, each:
$ 7.50

HCP870SET4 Aftermarket Hitachi float valve NEEDLES with clip, set of 4:
$ 28.00


jj) Aftermarket Hitachi FLOAT NEEDLE VALVE ASSEMBLY---contains the float valve Needle with retainer clip, float valve needle brass screw-in Seat, and the metal seat Washer. The seat DOES include the filter screen, but this kit does NOT include the idle mixture screw block-off cap. NOTE: the float Needle that comes with this set is approximately 1mm taller than a factory Yamaha needle, and will require that you re-adjust the float level height after installation.

For all XJ650 (except Turbo), all XJ750, and all XJ700 (except "X") models:

HCP872 Aftermarket Hitachi FLOAT NEEDLE VALVE ASSEMBLY, single:
$ 11.00

HCP872SET4 Aftermarket Hitachi FLOAT NEEDLE VALVE ASSEMBLIES, set of 4:
$ 39.00


nn) Aftermarket Hitachi carbs LOWER END STANDARD REBUILD KIT---contains the float needle with retainer clip, float valve brass screw-in seat, a fiber seat washer, idle mixture screw block-off cap, and an aftermarket bowl gasket. The float needle seat does NOT include the filter screen. NOTE: the float Needle that comes with this set is approximately the same height as a factory Yamaha needle, and it may not be necessary to re-adjust the float level height after installation.


For all XJ650 (except Turbo), all XJ750, and all XJ700 non-X models:

HCP1 Aftermarket Hitachi carb LOWER END STANDARD REBUILD KIT, single:
$ 19.00

HCP1SET4 Aftermarket Hitachi carb LOWER END STANDARD REBUILD KITS, set of 4:
$ 69.00



fs2) Aftermarket Hitachi carb LOWER END DELUXE REBUILD KIT---contains the float needle with retainer clip, float valve brass screw-in seat, a metal seat washer, and a factory bowl gasket. The float needle seat DOES include the filter screen. NOTE: the float Needle that comes with this set is approximately 1mm taller than the factory Yamaha needle, and will require that you re-adjust the float level height after installation.


For all XJ650 (except Turbo), all XJ750, and all XJ700 non-X models:

HCP2776 Aftermarket Hitachi carb LOWER END DELUXE REBUILD KIT, single:
$ 24.00

HCP2776SET4 Aftermarket Hitachi carb LOWER END DELUXE REBUILD KITS, set of 4:
$ 88.00




fs7) OEM Hitachi fuel bowl FLOAT HINGE PIN, brand new steel pin used with the HCP2 floats above. Fits all XJ650 (except Turbo) models, all XJ700 non-X models, and all XJ750 models.

HCP3 Hitachi carb FLOAT HINGE PIN, each:
$ 8.50

HCP3SET4 Hitachi carb FLOAT HINGE PINS, set of 4:
$ 29.00


NOTE: good used floats, float pins, and float bowls and mounting hardware are also available, please inquire.




HITACHI VACUUM DIAPHRAM AND PISTON ASSEMBLY:

fs5) OEM Hitachi HSC32 series carbs VACUUM DIAPHRAM AND PISTON ASSEMBLY, the slide piston with the non-detachable rubber vacuum diaphram seal. Although it is possible to repair TINY pin-holes that occur in original diaphrams, anything greater than that will require replacement, as these diaphram are under a lot of pressure and stress and the continued flexing of the rubber will eventually lead to failure. Fits all XJ650 (except Turbo) models, and all XJ750 models.

HCP69 OEM Hitachi carb VACUUM DIAPHRAM AND PISTON ASSEMBLY[b], brand new, each:
$ 244.95

HCP69SET4 OEM Hitachi carb [b]VACUUM DIAPHRAM AND PISTON ASSEMBLIES, set of 4:
$ 929.95



bb3) HCP8540 Aftermarket carb diaphram rubber RnR FLUID. Dissolved and chlorinated paraffin wax is the best (and perhaps the only) way to safely bring some life back into stiff, worn rubber material... such as that found in those all-important carb piston diaphrams. Years of hard life inside of your carb take their toll, and whenever your carb is apart for service, and generous application of this product will help to clean, maintain, and restore the flexibility, while prolonging their usable service life. 10cc dripper bottle contains enough fluid to do about eight diaphrams. Simple to use, spread on, wait a few seconds, wipe off, repeat and you're done!
$ 9.95



HITACHI CARB HATS:


Hitachi Carb Hats:

Reproduction Hitachi CARB DIAPHRAM COVERS, commonly called carb "hats", are the bright polished upper covers with the "sloped dome" shape. Brand new stampings perfectly replace rusted and pitted originals, add a final "crowning" touch to your carb restoration project. All hats will fit all Hitachi HSC32 or HSC33 series carbs as used on the XJ-series bikes.


HCP9162 Aftermarket Hitachi POLISHED SILVER CHROME CARB HAT, mirror finish as used on all fours carbs on all XJ650 Maxim models, XJ650RJ Seca models, and all XJ750 Maxim and Seca models. Also used on the outboard carbs (#1 and #4) on all XJ700 non-X (air-cooled) models. Each:
$ 29.95

HCP9162SET2 Aftermarket Hitachi POLISHED SILVER CHROME CARB HATS, set of 2:
$ 49.95

HCP9162SET4 Aftermarket Hitachi POLISHED SILVER CHROME CARB HATS, set of 4:
$ 89.95



HCP9163 Aftermarket Hitachi POLISHED GOLDEN CHROME CARB HAT, golden mirror finish as used on all fours carbs on all XJ650 Midnight Maxim and XJ750 Midnight Maxim models. Each:
$ 39.95

HCP9163SET2 Aftermarket Hitachi POLISHED GOLDEN CHROME CARB HATS, set of 2:
$ 59.95

HCP9163SET4 Aftermarket Hitachi POLISHED GOLDEN CHROME CARB HATS, set of 4:
$ 99.95




HCP9164 Aftermarket Hitachi NATURAL ZINC-CAD PLATED CARB HAT, dull silver finish as used on the inner carbs only (#2 and #3) on all XJ700 non-X (air-cooled) models. Each:
$ 27.95

HCP9164SET2 Aftermarket Hitachi NATURAL ZINC-CAD PLATED CARB HAT, set of 2:
$ 47.95



*********************

FREE STANDARD SHIPPING {OR JUST $5.00 FOR PRIORITY MAIL} SHIPPING IN THE USA FOR ALL ORDERS OVER $100 !!!!

$7.50 STANDARD SHIPPING TO CANADA FOR ALL ORDERS OVER $100 !!!!

Paypal accepted. Worldwide shipping available. Shipping prices and insurance costs are NOT included in the prices of items unless specifically listed. Please write with your list of parts needs and I will be glad to quote your shipping costs to you.

You can either PM (Private Message) me through this website, e-mail us via the "email" button on the bottom of this post, or e-mail us directly at:

info @ xj4ever.com

PLEASE NOTE!: our e-mail address does NOT have spaces before or after the "@" symbol........the posting system on this website automatically adds blank spaces before and after that symbol as an anti-spam feature! Make sure you eliminate those blank spaces when sending us an e-mail! Our e-mail address does NOT have any blank spaces in it!!

PLEASE!: on each and every correspondence with us, please tell us what YEAR and MODEL bike you have (example: 1982 XJ650 Maxim) and what your NAME (first name, at least!) is......that information really makes life a bit easier for us, and insures a more timely and ACCURATE response from us back to you!

MORE XJ PARTS IN THE FOLLOWING POST!!

SECTION C:

FUEL SYSTEM ITEMS: Including Airboxes, Carbs, Intakes, Fuel Tanks, Petcocks, Gas Caps, Tank Mounts, Etc.

--Hitachi Parts Continued



HITACHI FUEL SYSTEM HARDWARE:

A variety of different style fasteners and finishes are available, ranging from original OEM grade and finish to stainless steel, polished, or black-oxide coated fasteners. This is the easiest way to replace your missing or damaged original hardware or to upgrade the appearance or durability of your hardware! Many different styles are available for most fasteners, so review your choices carefully.



HITACHI CARB BOWL HARDWARE:

fff) OEM Hitachi carb BOWL-TO-BODY MOUNTING SCREW, stock. Does not come with the lock washer, which has to be ordered below separately. NOTE: original screws had integral captured lock washers, the replacement ones do not. These replacement phillips-head screws have a black-oxide finish, as opposed to the natural finish used originally. Use with the HCP59 lock washers listed below.

HCP2940 OEM Hitachi carb bowl-to-body black oxide MOUNTING SCREW, each:
$ 1.50

HCP2940SET4 OEM Hitachi carb bowl-to-body black oxide MOUNTING SCREWS, set of 4:
$ 5.00

HCP2940SET16 OEM Hitachi carb bowl-to-body black oxide MOUNTING SCREWS, set of 16:
$ 18.00



m5) Aftermarket Hitachi carb BOWL-TO-BODY MOUNTING SCREW, stock style. Does not come with the lock washer, which has to be ordered below separately. NOTE: original screws had integral captured lock washers, the replacement ones do not.
Replacement screws come in a variety of different finish and head drive styles, so please review the descriptions below carefully!

These replacement phillips-head screws have a natural finish as used originally. Use with the HCP913 lock washers listed further below:



HCP2643 aftermarket carb bowl-to-body natural finish MOUNTING SCREW, each:
$ 0.75

HCP2643SET4 aftermarket Hitachi carb bowl-to-body natural finish MOUNTING SCREWS, set of 4:
$ 2.50

HCP2643SET16 aftermarket Hitachi carb bowl-to-body natural MOUNTING SCREWS, set of 16:
$ 9.00




These replacement phillips-head screws have a polished finish and are made from 18-8 stainless steel. Use with the HCP57 lock washers listed further below:

HCP302 aftermarket carb bowl-to-body 18-8 stainless steel MOUNTING SCREW, phillips-head, each:
$ 1.00

HCP302SET4 aftermarket Hitachi carb bowl-to-body 18-8 stainless steel MOUNTING SCREWS, phillips head, set of 4:
$ 3.50

HCP302SET16 aftermarket Hitachi carb bowl-to-body 18-8 stainless steel MOUNTING SCREWS, phillips head, set of 16:
$ 12.00




These replacement button-head screws have a polished finish, and are made from an18-8 polished stainless steel. Use with the HCP57 lock washers listed further below:

HCP303 Replacement Hitachi carb bowl-to-body stainless button-head MOUNTING SCREW, each:
$ 1.50

HCP303SET4 Replacement Hitachi carb bowl-to-body stainless button-head MOUNTING SCREWS, set of 4:
$ 5.00

HCP303SET16 Replacement Hitachi carb bowl-to-body stainless button-head MOUNTING SCREWS, set of 16:
$ 16.00




These replacement allen-head screws have a polished finish, as and are made from an18-8 polished stainless steel. Use with the HCP57 lock washers listed further below:

HCP56 Replacement Hitachi carb bowl-to-body stainless allen-head MOUNTING SCREW, each:
$ 1.50

HCP56SET4 Replacement Hitachi carb bowl-to-body stainless allen-head MOUNTING SCREWS, set of 4:
$ 4.50

HCP56SET16 Replacement Hitachi carb bowl-to-body stainless allen-head MOUNTING SCREWS, set of 16:
$ 15.00




These replacement allen-head screws have a black-oxide finish, and are made from alloy steel material. Use with the HCP59 lock washers listed further below:

HCP58 Replacement Hitachi carb bowl-to-body black allen-head MOUNTING SCREW, each:
$ 1.00

HCP58SET4 Replacement Hitachi carb bowl-to-body black allen-head MOUNTING SCREWS, set of 4:
$ 3.50

HCP58SET16 Replacement Hitachi carb bowl-to-body black allen-head MOUNTING SCREWS, set of 16:
$ 12.00




These replacement phillips-head screws have a golden chromate finish, as opposed to the natural finish used originally, and come with the intergral captured lockwasher as original:

HCP1358 Replacement Hitachi carb bowl-to-body gold chromate MOUNTING SCREW with lockwasher, each:
$ 1.00

HCP1358SET4 Replacement Hitachi carb bowl-to-body gold chromate MOUNTING SCREWS with lockwasher, set of 4:
$ 3.50

HCP1358SET16 Replacement Hitachi carb bowl-to-body gold chromate MOUNTING SCREWS with lockwasher, set of 16:
$ 13.00




ggg) Replacement Hitachi carb Bowl-to-Body Mounting Screw LOCK WASHERS, available in a variety of finishes to match the above screws,

These replacement lock washers have a black-oxide finish. Use with the HCP2940 or the HCP58 screws listed above:

HCP59 Replacement Hitachi carb bowl-to-body black oxide LOCK WASHER, each:
$ 1.00

HCP59SET4 Replacement Hitachi carb bowl-to-body black oxide LOCK WASHERS, set of 4:
$ 3.00

HCP59SET16 Replacement Hitachi carb bowl-to-body black oxide LOCK WASHERS, set of 16:
$ 9.00



These replacement lock washers have a natural finish as used originally. Use with the HCP2643 screws listed above:

HCP913 Replacement Hitachi carb bowl-to-body natural finish LOCK WASHER, each:
$ .20

HCP913SET4 Replacement Hitachi carb bowl-to-body natural finish LOCK WASHERS, set of 4:
$ .75

HCP913SET16 Replacement Hitachi carb bowl-to-body natural finish LOCK WASHERS, set of 16:
$ 2.50



These replacement lock washers are made from an 18-8 stainless steel material for durability. Use with the HCP56, HCP302, or HCP303 screws listed above:

HCP57 Replacement Hitachi carb bowl-to-body stainless LOCK WASHER, each:
$ 1.00

HCP57SET4 Replacement Hitachi carb bowl-to-body stainless LOCK WASHERS, set of 4:
$ 3.00

HCP57SET16 Replacement Hitachi carb bowl-to-body stainless LOCK WASHERS, set of 16:
$ 9.00





HITACHI CARB BOWL DRAIN SCREW:

e5) OEM Hitachi carb BOWL DRAIN SCREW. Cad-plated alloy steel phillips head, taper-point screw fits into the drain hole passage of each carb bowl. Made by the original Yamaha supplier.


HCP864 OEM phillips-head cad-plated alloy-steel carb BOWL DRAIN SCREW, each:
$ 14.00

HCP864SET4 OEM phillips-head alloy-steel carb BOWL DRAIN SCREWS, set of 4:
$ 49.00



e6) Aftermarket Hitachi carb BOWL DRAIN SCREW. Natural finish alloy steel phillips head, taper-point screw fits into the drain hole passage of each carb bowl. Just like the original Yamaha screw but without the bright cad plating.

HCP3113 Aftermarket phillips-head alloy-steel carb BOWL DRAIN SCREW, each:
$ 4.50

HCP3113SET4 Aftermarket phillips-head alloy-steel carb BOWL DRAIN SCREW, set of 4:
$ 17.00



f5) Aftermarket Hitachi carb BOWL DRAIN SCREW. Bright finish 18-8 stainless steel phillips head, taper-point screw fits into the drain hole passage of each carb bowl. Just like the original Yamaha screw but made of stainless steel.

HCP3112 Aftermarket phillips-head stainless-steel carb BOWL DRAIN SCREW, each:
$ 5.00

HCP3112SET4 Aftermarket phillips-head stainless-steel carb BOWL DRAIN SCREWS, set of 4:
$ 18.00




g5) Aftermarket Hitachi carb BOWL DRAIN SCREW. Bright finish 18-8 stainless steel allen head (hex-drive socket head), taper-point screw fits into the drain hole passage of each carb bowl. Works better than the original Yamaha screw; not only is it made of stainless steel, but the larger allen-head design allows for more torque to be applied to the screw, forever ending the stripped/stuck/ruined drain screw problem that has plagued Yamaha owners forever! Note that by their design, the large allen head portion of this drain screw will be located OUTSIDE of the drain screw bore hole in the bowl, and sticks out about 1/4" from the bowl body. This additional length does not cause any problems, and after looking at them (installed) on the carb bowls, at first glance they might look "odd" the way the stick out, but after the third or fourth look, they appear normal and oddly interesting with that extended length.

NOTE: do NOT "bottom" the heads of these screws against the bowl! Tighten them to 4-5 foot-pounds of torque, just enough to seat them snugly.

Fits all XJ650 (except Turbo) models, all XJ700 non-X, and all XJ750 models using the Hitachi HSC-32 or -33 series factory carbs.

It is recommended that anti-seize compound be used on the screw threads when fitting them into the carb bowl passage.


HCP54 Aftermarket Hitachi allen-head stainless-steel carb BOWL DRAIN SCREW, each:
$ 5.00

HCP54SET4 Aftermarket Hitachi allen-head stainless-steel carb BOWL DRAIN SCREWS, set of 4:
$ 17.95




HITACHI CARB HAT HARDWARE:

h5) Hitachi carb diaphram cover (chrome "dome" or "Hat") MOUNTING SCREW, available in both short and long versions, and in a variety of original and aftermarket styles and finishes.

The short screws are used in any position that does not have a clip or bracket associated with it. You will need to use a total of 10 of these short screws per complete carb rack.

The long screws are used in any position that has a clip or bracket associated with it. You will need to use a total of 6 of these long screws per complete carb rack.

NOTE: originally, all carb hat screws were a natural finish, panhead style, phillips-drive with a captive lock washer. Current OEM screws and all aftermarket screws do NOT have an integral lock washer and the lock washer must be ordered separately from the choices listed further below.

Replacement screws come in a variety of different finish and head drive styles, so please review the descriptions below carefully!


- These replacement panhead phillips-drive screws have a natural finish and are made from alloy steel. Use with the HCP326 or HCP922 lock washers listed further below:

HCP322 OEM alloy-steel natural finish, panhead phillips-drive carb hat short MOUNTING SCREW, each:
$ 1.25

HCP322SET10 OEM alloy-steel natural finish, panhead phillips-drive carb hat short MOUNTING SCREWS, set of 10:
$ 10.00


HCP323 OEM alloy-steel natural finish, panhead phillips-drive carb hat long MOUNTING SCREW, each:
$ 1.25

HCP323SET6 OEM alloy-steel natural finish, panhead phillips-drive carb hat long MOUNTING SCREWS, set of 6:
$ 7.00




HCP918 Aftermarket alloy-steel natural finish, panhead phillips-drive carb hat short MOUNTING SCREW, each:
$ 1.00

HCP918SET10 Aftermarket alloy-steel natural finish, panhead phillips-drive carb hat short MOUNTING SCREWS, set of 10:
$ 6.00


HCP919 Aftermarket alloy-steel natural finish, panhead phillips-drive carb hat long MOUNTING SCREW, each:
$ 1.00

HCP919SET6 Aftermarket alloy-steel natural finish, panhead phillips-drive carb hat long MOUNTING SCREWS, set of 6:
$ 4.00




- These replacement phillips-head screws have a polished finish and are made from an 18-8 stainless steel. Use with the HCP336 lock washers listed further below:

HCP1355 Aftermarket 18-8 stainless-steel polished finish, phillips-head carb hat short MOUNTING SCREW, each:
$ 1.20

HCP1355SET10 Aftermarket 18-8 stainless-steel polished, phillips-head finish carb hat short MOUNTING SCREWS, set of 10:
$ 8.00



HCP2641 Aftermarket 18-8 stainless-steel polished finish, panhead phillips-drive carb hat long MOUNTING SCREW, each:
$ 1.20

HCP2641SET6 Aftermarket 18-8 stainless-steel polished finish, panhead phillips-drive carb hat long MOUNTING SCREWS, set of 6:
$ 5.00




- These replacement button-head, hex-drive screws have a polished finish and are made from an 18-8 stainless steel. Use with the HCP336 lock washers listed further below:

HCP332 Aftermarket 18-8 stainless-steel polished finish, button head hex-drive carb hat short MOUNTING SCREW, each:
$ 1.40

HCP322SET10 Aftermarket 18-8 stainless-steel polished finish, button head hex-drive carb hat short MOUNTING SCREWS, set of 10:
$ 10.00


HCP333 Aftermarket 18-8 stainless-steel polished finish, button head hex-drive carb hat long MOUNTING SCREW, each:
$ 1.40

HCP333SET6 Aftermarket 18-8 stainless-steel polished finish, button head hex-drive carb hat long MOUNTING SCREWS, set of 6:
$ 7.00




- These replacement allen-head, hex-drive screws have a polished finish and are made from an 18-8 stainless steel. Use with the HCP336 lock washers listed further below:

HCP329 Aftermarket 18-8 stainless steel polished finish, allen head hex-drive carb hat short MOUNTING SCREW, each:
$ 1.40

HCP329SET10 Aftermarket 18-8 stainless steel polished finish, allen head hex-drive carb hat short MOUNTING SCREWS, set of 10:
$ 10.00



HCP330 Aftermarket 18-8 stainless steel polished finish, allen head hex-drive carb hat long MOUNTING SCREW, each:
$ 1.40

HCP330SET6 Aftermarket 18-8 stainless steel polished finish, allen head hex-drive carb hat long MOUNTING SCREWS, set of 6:
$ 6.00




- These replacement allen-head, hex-drive screws have a black oxide-coated finish and are made from alloy steel. Use with the HCP342 lock washers listed further below:

HCP339 Aftermarket black oxide-coated steel finish, allen head hex-drive carb hat short MOUNTING SCREW, each:
$ 1.20

HCP339SET10 Aftermarket black oxide-coated steel finish, allen head hex-drive carb hat short MOUNTING SCREWS, set of 10:
$ 9.00



HCP340 Aftermarket black oxide-coated steel finish, allen head hex-drive carb hat long MOUNTING SCREW, each:
$ 1.20

HCP340SET6 Aftermarket black oxide-coated steel finish, allen head hex-drive carb hat long MOUNTING SCREWS, set of 6:
$ 6.00




k5) Hitachi carb diaphram cover mounting screw LOCK WASHER.....uses 16 per carb rack. NOTE: originally, these washers were integral to the mounting screws and featured a natural finish. Current OEM screws and all aftermarket screws do NOT have an integral lock washer and thus the lock washers must be ordered separately from the choices listed below. These lock washers will fit either the short or the long hat mounting screws listed above.


HCP326 OEM alloy-steel, natural finish carb hat mounting screw LOCK WASHER, each:
$ 0.75

HCP326SET4 OEM alloy-steel, natural finish carb hat mounting screw LOCK WASHERS, set of 4:
$ 2.50

HCP326SET16 OEM alloy-steel, natural finish carb hat mounting screw LOCK WASHERS, set of 16:
$ 9.00



HCP922 Aftermarket alloy-steel, natural finish carb hat mounting screw LOCK WASHER, each:
$ 0.50

HCP922SET4 Aftermarket alloy-steel natural finish carb hat mounting screw LOCK WASHERS, set of 4:
$ 1.50

HCP922SET16 Aftermarket alloy-steel natural finish carb hat mounting screw LOCK WASHERS, set of 16:
$ 4.00



HCP336 Aftermarket 18-8 stainless-steel polished finish carb hat mounting screw LOCK WASHER, each:
$ 0.60

HCP336SET4 Aftermarket 18-8 stainless-steel polished finish carb hat mounting screw LOCK WASHERS, set of 4:
$ 2.00

HCP336SET16 Aftermarket 18-8 stainless-steel polished finish carb hat mounting screw LOCK WASHERS, set of 16:
$ 5.00



HCP342 Aftermarket black oxide-coated steel finish carb hat mounting screw LOCK WASHER, each:
$ 0.50

HCP342SET4 Aftermarket black oxide-coated steel finish carb hat mounting screw LOCK WASHERS, set of 4:
$ 1.50

HCP342SET16 Aftermarket black oxide-coated steel finish carb hat mounting screw LOCK WASHERS, set of 16:
$ 4.00




k5) Hitachi carb diaphram cover mounting screw FLAT WASHER.....use 1 per carb rack, on the #2 carb rear position where the vacuum line clip attaches (this position uses both a lock washer and a flat washer). NOTE: originally featured a natural finish.


HCP328 OEM alloy-steel natural finish carb hat mounting screw FLAT WASHER, each:
$ 0.75

HCP924 Aftermarket alloy-steel natural finish carb hat mounting screw FLAT WASHER, each:
$ 0.15

HCP338 Aftermarket 18-8 stainless-steel polished finish carb hat mounting screw FLAT WASHER, each:
$ 0.20

HCP1356 Aftermarket black oxide-coated steel finish carb hat mounting screw FLAT WASHER, each:
$ 1.50





HITACHI CARB STARTER-ENRICHMENT CIRCUIT-CHOKE SYSTEM HARDWARE:

xx4) Aftermarket Hitachi Starter-Enrichment Circuit Arm-to-Shaft SET SCREW. These replacement screws are used to retain the starter lever "finger" bracket to the starter circuit shaft. Use 4 of these screws per rack. NOTE: originally, these screws had a natural finish, with a straight slot (flat) head style drive. All aftermarket screws feature an allen-head drive and are slightly longer (about 1mm) than the original set screws, but that additional length causes no interference problems.


HCP299 Aftermarket Hitachi enrichment circuit lever arm-to-shaft SET SCREW, allen-head, black oxide coated alloy steel, each:
$ 1.00

HCP299SET4 Aftermarket Hitachi enrichment circuit lever arm-to-shaft SET SCREWS, allen-head, black oxide coated alloy steel, set of 4:
$ 2.50


HCP300 Aftermarket Hitachi enrichment circuit lever arm-to-shaft SET SCREW, allen-head, 18-8 stainless steel, each:
$ 1.25

HCP300SET4 Aftermarket Hitachi enrichment circuit lever arm-to-shaft SET SCREWS, allen-head, 18-8 stainless steel, set of 4:
$ 4.00


xx5) Hitachi Starter-Enrichment SHAFT RETAINING SCREW, used to retain the starter shaft bracket to the starter circuit shaft. Use 1 of these screws per rack. NOTE: originally, these screws had a natural finish, with a phillips-head drive system, and a captive lock washer. All OEM and aftermarket screws do not come with the captive lock washer, and a lock washer needs to be ordered separate.

HCP292 OEM Hitachi enrichment circuit SHAFT RETAINING SCREW, panhead phillips-drive, black oxide coated alloy steel, each. Use with the HCP296 or HCP298 lock washer listed further below.
$ 1.50

HCP898 Aftermarket Hitachi enrichment circuit SHAFT RETAINING SCREW, panhead phillips-drive, bright zinc-plated alloy steel, each. Use with the HCP297 lock washer listed further below.
$ 1.00

HCP293 Aftermarket Hitachi enrichment circuit SHAFT RETAINING SCREW, panhead phillips-drive, 18-8 stainless steel, each. Use with the HCP297 lock washer listed further below.
$ 1.80

HCP294 Aftermarket Hitachi enrichment circuit SHAFT RETAINING SCREW, allen-head, 18-8 stainless steel, each. Use with the HCP297 lock washer listed further below.
$ 1.00

HCP295 Aftermarket Hitachi enrichment circuit SHAFT RETAINING SCREW, allen-head, black oxide coated alloy steel, each. Use with the HCP298 lock washer listed further below.
$ 1.00


xx6) Hitachi enrichment shaft retainer screw LOCK WASHER, use with the above retainer screws. Use 1 of these washers per rack. NOTE: originally, the retainer screw came with a captive lock washer; all OEM and aftermarket screws do not come with the captive lock washer, and a lock washer needs to be ordered separate.


HCP296 OEM Hitachi enrichment shaft retainer screw LOCK WASHER, black oxide coated alloy steel, each. Use with the HCP292 retaining screw listed
above.
$ 1.50

HCP297 Aftermarket Hitachi enrichment shaft retainer screw LOCK WASHER, 18-8 stainless steel, each. Use with the HCP293, HCP898, or HCP294 retaining screw listed above.
$ .50

HCP298 Aftermarket Hitachi enrichment shaft retainer screw LOCK WASHER, 18-8 stainless steel, each. Use with the HCP292 or HCP295 retaining screw listed above.
$ .50



HCP25 OEM Hitachi Starter Enrichment Circuit brass jet needle PLUNGER SPRING. Each.
$ 6.00





HITACHI CARB UPPER RACK MOUNTING BRACKET HARDWARE:

a7) Aftermarket Hitachi carb upper rack bracket MOUNTING SCREWS, available in both the short and long versions, and in a variety of original and aftermarket styles and finishes.

The short screws are used in every position EXCEPT the #6 screw hole which also holds the clutch cable routing clip. Use 7 of these screws per rack to mount the carbs.

The long screw is used in the #6 position that has the clutch cable routing clip or bracket associated with it. You will need to use 1 of these long screws per complete carb rack.

NOTE: originally, these screws were a natural finish, panhead phillips-drive style with a captive lock washer. Current OEM screws and all aftermarket screws do NOT have an integral lock washer and the lock washer must be ordered separately from the choices listed further below.

ALSO, these screws were originally installed (and should be re-installed) with a low-strength thread locking fluid applied. Therefore, these screws may be VERY difficult to remove and it is highly recommended that you obtain the correct size JIS style screwdriver (or an impact driver) to remove them without stripping the slots.


- These replacement panhead phillips-drive screws have a natural finish and are made from alloy steel. Use with the HCP913 lock washers listed further below:

HCP60 OEM Hitachi carb upper rack bracket short MOUNTING SCREW, alloy steel, natural finish, panhead phillips-drive. Use with the HCP913 lock washers listed below. Each.
$ 1.00

HCP60SET7 OEM Hitachi carb upper rack bracket short MOUNTING SCREWS. Use with the HCP913 lock washers listed below. Set of 7.
$ 6.00

HCP304 OEM Hitachi carb upper rack bracket long MOUNTING SCREW, alloy steel with a natural finish and phillips head. Use the HCP913 lock washers and HCP914 flat washer listed below. Each.
$ 2.00

HCP4561 OEM Hitachi carb upper rack bracket long MOUNTING SCREW, black oxide-coated steel with a phillips head. For used on XJ650 Midnight Maxima nd XJ750 Midnight Maxim models only. Use the HCP59 lock washers and HCP65 flat washer listed below. Each.
$ 2.00




HCP910 Aftermarket Hitachi carb upper rack bracket short MOUNTING SCREW, alloy steel, natural finish, panhead phillips-drive. Use with the HCP913 lock washers listed below. Each.
$ 1.00

HCP910SET7 Aftermarket Hitachi carb upper rack bracket short MOUNTING SCREWS. Use with the HCP913 lock washers listed below. Set of 7.
$ 4.00

HCP911 Aftermarket Hitachi carb upper rack bracket long MOUNTING SCREW, alloy steel, natural finish, panhead phillips-drive. Use the HCP913 lock washers and HCP914 flat washer listed below. Each.
$ 1.00




- These replacement panhead phillips-drive screws have a polished finish and are made from 18-8 stainless steel. Use with the HCP57 lock washers listed further below:

HCP62 Aftermarket Hitachi carb upper rack bracket short MOUNTING SCREW, 18-8 stainless steel panhead phillips-drive. Use with the HCP57 lock washers listed below. Each.
$ 1.25

HCP62SET7 Aftermarket Hitachi carb upper rack bracket short MOUNTING SCREWS. Use with the HCP57 lock washers listed below. Set of 7.
$ 6.00

HCP307 Aftermarket Hitachi carb upper rack bracket long MOUNTING SCREW, 18-8 stainless steel panhead phillips-drive. Use the HCP57 lock washers and HCP1353 flat washer listed below. Each.
$ 1.25




- These replacement button head hex-drive screws have a polished finish and are made from 18-8 stainless steel. Use with the HCP57 lock washers listed further below:

HCP308 Aftermarket Hitachi carb upper rack bracket short MOUNTING SCREW, 18-8 stainless steel with a button head and hex-drive. Use with the HCP57 lock washers listed below. Each.
$ 1.25

HCP308SET7 Aftermarket Hitachi carb upper rack bracket short MOUNTING SCREWS. Use with the HCP57 lock washers listed below. Set of 7.
$ 6.00

HCP309 Aftermarket Hitachi carb upper rack bracket long MOUNTING SCREW, 18-8 stainless steel with a button head and hex-drive. Use the HCP57 lock washers and HCP1353 flat washer listed below. Each.
$ 1.00




- These replacement allen head hex-drive screws have a polished finish and are made from 18-8 stainless steel. Use with the HCP57 lock washers listed further below:

HCP310 Aftermarket Hitachi carb upper rack bracket short MOUNTING SCREW, 18-8 stainless steel with an allen head and hex-drive. Use with the HCP57 lock washers listed below. Each.
$ 1.25

HCP310SET7 Aftermarket Hitachi carb upper rack bracket short MOUNTING SCREWS. Use with the HCP57 lock washers listed below. Set of 7.
$ 6.00

HCP311 Aftermarket Hitachi carb upper rack bracket long MOUNTING SCREW, 18-8 stainless steel with an allen head and hex-drive. Use the HCP57 lock washers and HCP1353 flat washer listed below. Each.
$ 1.00




- These replacement allen head hex-drive screws have a black oxide-coated finish and are made from alloy steel. Use with the HCP59 lock washers listed further below:

HCP64 Aftermarket Hitachi carb upper rack bracket short MOUNTING SCREW, black-oxide coated alloy steel, allen head with a hex drive. Use with the HCP59 lock washers listed below. Each.
$ 1.00

HCP64SET7 Aftermarket Hitachi carb upper rack bracket short MOUNTING SCREWS. Use with the HCP59 lock washers listed below. Set of 7.
$ 4.00

HCP312 Aftermarket Hitachi carb upper rack bracket long MOUNTING SCREW, black-oxide coated alloy steel with an allen head and hex-drive. Use the HCP59 lock washers and HCP65 flat washer listed below. Each.
$ 1.00





c7) Aftermarket Hitachi carb upper rack bracket mounting screw LOCK WASHER. These replacement lock washers are used in all 8 positions. Use 8 of these lock washers per rack. NOTE: originally, these washers were a natural finish. Current OEM screws and all aftermarket screws do NOT have an integral lock washer and the lock washer must be ordered separately from the choices listed below.


HCP913 Aftermarket Hitachi carb upper rack bracket mounting screw LOCK WASHER, alloy steel with a natural finish. Use with the HCP60, HCP304, HCP910, and HCP911 screws listed above. Each.
$ 1.00

HCP913SET8 Aftermarket Hitachi carb upper rack bracket mounting screw LOCK WASHERS, alloy steel with a natural finish. Use with the HCP60, HCP304, HCP910, and HCP911 screws listed above. Set of 8.
$ 3.00



HCP57 Aftermarket Hitachi carb upper rack bracket mounting screw LOCK WASHER, 18-8 stainless steel. Use with the HCP62, HCP 307, HCP308, HCP309, HCP310, and HCP311 screws listed above. Each.
$ 1.00

HCP57SET8 Aftermarket Hitachi carb upper rack bracket mounting screw LOCK WASHERS, 18-8 stainless steel. Use with the HCP60, HCP304, HCP910, and HCP911 screws listed above. Set of 8.
$ 4.00



HCP59 Aftermarket Hitachi carb upper rack bracket mounting screw LOCK WASHER, black oxide coated alloy steel. Use with the HCP64 and HCP312 screws listed above. Each.
$ 1.50

HCP59SET8 Aftermarket Hitachi carb upper rack bracket mounting screw LOCK WASHERS, black-oxide coated alloy steel. Use with the HCP64 and HCP312 screws listed above. Set of 8.
$ 9.00



d7) Aftermarket Hitachi carb upper rack bracket mounting screw FLAT WASHER. These replacement flat washers are used in only the #6 screw hole which also holds the clutch cable routing clip. Use 1 of these screws per rack. NOTE: originally, these washers were a natural finish.


HCP914 Aftermarket Hitachi carb upper rack bracket mounting screw FLAT WASHER, alloy steel with a natural finish. Use with the HCP304 or HCP911 screws listed above. Each.
$ 1.00


HCP1353 Aftermarket Hitachi carb upper rack bracket mounting screw FLAT WASHER, 18-8 stainless steel. Use with the HCP307, HCP309, or HCP311 screws listed above. Each.
$ 1.00


HCP65 Aftermarket Hitachi carb upper rack bracket mounting screw FLAT WASHER, black oxide coated alloy steel. Use with the HCP312 screw listed above. Each.
$ 1.00





HITACHI CARB LOWER RACK MOUNTING BRACKET HARDWARE:

e7) Aftermarket Hitachi carb lower rack bracket MOUNTING SCREW. These replacement screws are used in every position of the lower rack bar to mount the carbs. Use 8 of these screws per rack.

NOTE: originally, these screws were a natural finish, panhead phillips-drive style with a captive lock washer. Current OEM screws and all aftermarket screws do NOT have an integral lock washer and the lock washer must be ordered separately from the choices listed further below.

ALSO, these screws were originally installed (and should be re-installed) with a low-strength thread locking fluid applied. Therefore, these screws may be VERY difficult to remove and it is highly recommended that you obtain the correct size JIS style screwdriver (or an impact driver) to remove them without stripping the slots.


- These replacement panhead phillips-drive screws have a natural finish and are made from alloy steel. Use with the HCP916 lock washers listed further below:

HCP314 OEM Hitachi carb lower rack bracket MOUNTING SCREW, alloy steel with a natural finish, panhead phillips-drive. Use the HCP916 lock washers listed below. Each.
$ 1.50

HCP314SET8 OEM Hitachi carb lower rack bracket MOUNTING SCREWS, alloy steel with a natural finish, panhead phillips-drive. Use the HCP916 lock washers listed below. Set of 8.
$ 9.00



HCP915 Aftermarket Hitachi carb lower rack bracket MOUNTING SCREW, panhead, alloy steel, phillips drive with a natural finish. Use the HCP916 lock washers listed below. Each.
$ 1.00

HCP915SET8 Aftermarket Hitachi carb lower rack bracket MOUNTING SCREWS, panhead, alloy steel, phillips drive with a natural finish. Use the HCP916 lock washers listed below. Set of 8.
$ 3.00




- These replacement panhead phillips-drive screws have a polished finish and are made from 18-8 stainless steel. Use with the HCP319 lock washers listed further below:

HCP316 Aftermarket Hitachi carb lower rack bracket MOUNTING SCREW, 18-8 stainless steel, panhead phillips-drive. Use the HCP319 lock washers listed below. Each.
$ 1.00

HCP316SET8 Aftermarket Hitachi carb lower rack bracket MOUNTING SCREWS, 18-8 stainless steel, panhead phillips-drive. Use the HCP319 lock washers listed below. Set of 8.
$ 6.00




- These replacement button head hex-drive screws have a polished finish and are made from 18-8 stainless steel. Use with the HCP319 lock washers listed further below:

HCP317 Aftermarket Hitachi carb lower rack bracket MOUNTING SCREW, 18-8 stainless steel with a button head and hex-drive. Use the HCP319 lock washers listed below. Each.
$ 1.25

HCP317SET8 Aftermarket Hitachi carb lower rack bracket MOUNTING SCREWS, 18-8 stainless steel with a button head and hex-drive. Use the HCP319 lock washers listed below. Set of 8.
$ 7.00




- These replacement allen head hex-drive screws have a polished finish and are made from 18-8 stainless steel. Use with the HCP319 lock washers listed further below:

HCP318 Aftermarket Hitachi carb lower rack bracket MOUNTING SCREW, 18-8 stainless steel with an allen head and hex-drive. Use the HCP319 lock washers listed below. Each.
$ 1.25

HCP318SET8 Aftermarket Hitachi carb lower rack bracket MOUNTING SCREWS, 18-8 stainless steel with an allen head and hex-drive. Use the HCP319 lock washers listed below. Set of 8.
$ 7.00




- These replacement allen head hex-drive screws have a black oxide-coated finish and are made from alloy steel. Use with the HCP321 lock washers listed further below:

HCP320 Aftermarket Hitachi carb lower rack bracket MOUNTING SCREW, black-oxide coated alloy steel with an allen head and hex-drive. Use the HCP321 lock washers listed below. Each.
$ 1.00

HCP320SET8 Aftermarket Hitachi carb lower rack bracket MOUNTING SCREWS, black-oxide coated alloy steel with an allen head and hex-drive. Use the HCP321 lock washers listed below. Set of 8.
$ 3.00




e7a) Aftermarket Hitachi carb lower rack bracket mounting screw LOCK WASHER. These replacement lock washers are used in all 8 positions. Use 8 of these lock washers per rack. NOTE: originally, these washers were a natural finish. Current OEM screws and all aftermarket screws do NOT have an integral lock washer and the lock washer must be ordered separately from the choices listed below.


HCP916 Aftermarket Hitachi carb lower rack bracket mounting screw LOCK WASHER,alloy steel with a natural finish. Use with the HCP314 and HCP915 screws listed above. Each.
$ 1.00

HCP916SET8 Aftermarket Hitachi carb lower rack bracket mounting screw LOCK WASHERS,alloy steel with a natural finish. Use with the HCP314 and HCP915 screws listed above. Set of 8.
$ 3.00




HCP319 Aftermarket Hitachi carb lower rack bracket mounting screw LOCK WASHER,18-8 stainless steel. Use with the HCP316, HCP317, and HCP318 screws listed above. Each.
$ 1.00

HCP319SET8 Aftermarket Hitachi carb lower rack bracket mounting screw LOCK WASHERS,18-8 stainless steel. Use with the HCP316, HCP317, and HCP318 screws listed above. Set of 8.
$ 4.00




HCP321 Aftermarket Hitachi carb lower rack bracket mounting screw LOCK WASHER,black oxide coated alloy steel. Use with the HCP320 screws listed above. Each.
$ 1.50

HCP321SET8 Aftermarket Hitachi carb lower rack bracket mounting screw LOCK WASHERS, black-oxide coated alloy steel. Use with the HCP320 screws listed above. Set of 8.
$ 9.00



NOTE: good used carb mounting hardware, brackets, clips, etc. are also available, please inquire.


**********************
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Paypal accepted. Worldwide shipping available. Shipping prices and insurance costs are NOT included in the prices of items unless specifically listed. Please write with your list of parts needs and I will be glad to quote your shipping costs to you.

You can either PM (Private Message) me through this website, e-mail us via the "email" button on the bottom of this post, or e-mail us directly at:

info @ xj4ever.com

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MORE XJ PARTS IN THE FOLLOWING POST!!

SECTION C:

FUEL SYSTEM ITEMS: Including Airboxes, Carbs, Intakes, Fuel Tanks, Sending Units, Petcocks, Gas Caps, Tank Mounts, Etc.

--Mikuni Parts



MORE FUEL SYSTEM PARTS:

MIKUNI CARB REBUILD PARTS:

NOTE: Mikuni carbs were originally used on all Yamaha XJ550 models (BS28 series carbs), all XJ650 Turbo models (BS30 series carbs), all XJ700-X and XJ750-X models (BS33 series carbs), XJ900RK model (BS35 series carbs), and XJ1100 models (BS34 series carbs). All other XJ models from this era (XJ650 non-Turbo models, XJ700 non-"X" models, and all XJ750 non-X models) used Hitachi carbs.

NOTE: "OEM" refers to an original Yamaha factory part, whereas "Replacement" or "Aftermarket" refers to a part not made by Yamaha or one of their original suppliers. NOTE THAT AN "OEM" PART may be made by Yamaha's original supplier, even though such part is no longer serviced through the Yamaha factory parts system.



MIKUNI THROTTLE SHAFT REBUILD PARTS:

MIKUNI THROTTLE SHAFT SEALS:

aaa) OEM and aftermarket Mikuni carb THROTTLE SHAFT V-SEALS (sometimes called an "O-Ring", but it's not!)...these are the seals on the outside of the carb body that the throttle shaft passes through. Uses 2 per carb, BUT......without taking the carbs apart from the rack, the only ones you can replace are the outer seals on the #1 and the #4 carbs. Unlike the QR-series "o-rings" that many people recommend using---AND WHICH DO NOT FIT PROPERLY---these "V-Seals" do have the correct O.D., I.D., and thickness to fit both the throttle shaft and the carb shaft seal bore recess correctly. Used on all XJ550, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models.

HCP6838B OEM Mikuni throttle shaft V-SEAL, single:
$ 5.00

HCP6838BSET2 OEM Mikuni throttle shaft V-SEALS, pair:
$ 9.50

HCP6838BSET8 OEM Mikuni throttle shaft V-SEALS, set of 8:
$ 36.00



HCP38B Aftermarket Mikuni throttle shaft V-SEAL, single:
$ 4.00

HCP38BSET2 Aftermarket Mikuni throttle shaft V-SEALS, pair:
$ 7.75

HCP38BSET8 Aftermarket Mikuni throttle shaft V-SEALS, set of 8:
$ 28.95


We also strongly recommend the purchase of a new set of throttle shaft butterfly retaining screws, as it is very common to strip the heads out of the original screws while removing them. Replacement screws are listed further below.

Also, you are going to find it next-to-impossible to properly remove the original screws without using the proper JIS-style screwdriver. Typical "American" style screwdrivers do not have the proper tip design to engage the slots on JIS-specifications screws (which all screws on Japanese bikes are) and tend to very easily strip out the screw heads. We offer both a complete 4-piece set of various sized JIS screwdrivers, but those people wanting only the correct size screwdriver for these throttle shaft screws should order the HCP5901 (size #2) screwdriver:


HCP5901 Aftermarket size #2 JIS-standards SCREWDRIVER, for m3-m5 sized screws.
$ 11.95

HCP5904 Aftermarket JIS-standards SCREWDRIVER SET. Japanese phillips drive screws have sharper corners than regular phillips screwdrivers so they won't turn out under heavy torque. In order to take advantage of this feature, and to avoid stripping out the JIS screw heads by using US-standard phillips screwdrivers, it's a good idea to invest in a set of quality JIS-standard screwdrivers. This set of 4 contains one each of #1, #2, #3, and #4 sized-tip screwdrivers, and this range of sizes will handle everything down to an M2 sized screw (that's tiny, smaller than the size of the petcock faceplate mounting screws) all the way up to screws bigger than anything I've seen used on these bikes. They all feature sturdy plastic handles, chrome plated steel shafts, and come in a handy vinyl storage pouch.
$ 37.95



bbb) Aftermarket Mikuni carb Throttle Shaft Seal PLASTIC SHIM WASHER...these washers go directly "outside" of the throttle shaft seals listed above. Same notes as listed above about the seals (regarding the ease of replacement) also applies to these shims. NOTE: these shims do NOT "wear out" like the seals do; you only need to replace them if your shim washers are broken or missing. Used on all XJ550, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models.


HCP39C Aftermarket Mikuni throttle shaft seal SHIM WASHER, single:
$ 2.00

HCP39CSET2 Aftermarket Mikuni throttle shaft seal SHIM WASHERS, pair:
$ 3.75

HCP39CSET8 Aftermarket Mikuni throttle shaft seal SHIM WASHERS, eight shims:
$ 14.00





MIKUNI THROTTLE SHAFT HARDWARE:

ts5) Aftermarket Mikuni throttle shaft BUTTERFLY VALVE MOUNTING SCREW. Each round butterfly "valve" is held to the steel throttle shaft via two tiny phillips head screws. The throttle shaft has self-locking threads which makes the removal of these screws an absolute chore and usually results in a buggered phillips head slot. These replacement screws come in a variety of materials and drive styles. Use 2 per carb, 8 per entire carb rack. Used on all XJ550, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models.

NOTE: these screws are an absolute BEAST to remove, and it is very easy to destroy the screw heads as well as the throttle shaft threads while trying to remove them---if proper precautions are not taken. You will want to review the information in this forum thread before attempting removal:

www.xjbikes.com/Forums...html#66348


For all of the above reasons, our recommendation is to use the allen-head (hex drive) style screws (HCP7120 or HCP7346 below) to make future removal easier. ALSO, since it is not really feasible to peen or stake the screws once installed (as Mikuni originally did---they must have had a special fixture to perform this task), it is strongly recommended that you use some type of semi-permanent thread-locking fluid (such as our HCP1266 or HCP1267 thread locker fluids) when installing these screws.....as the last thing you want to have happen is having these screws back out during engine operation.....as that would be a sad, sad day for you and your engine!


HCP5899 Aftermarket Mikuni butterfly valve MOUNTING SCREW, oval-head 18-8 stainless steel screw with a phillips-drive, each:
$ 1.00

HCP5899SET2 Aftermarket Mikuni butterfly valve MOUNTING SCREWS, oval-head 18-8 stainless steel screw with a phillips-drive, set of 2:
$ 1.75

HCP5899SET8 Aftermarket Mikuni butterfly valve MOUNTING SCREWS, oval-head 18-8 stainless steel screw with a phillips-drive, set of 8:
$ 5.00



HCP7120 Aftermarket Mikuni butterfly valve MOUNTING SCREW, flat-head 18-8 stainless steel socket head cap screw with a 2mm hex-drive, each:
$ 1.00

HCP7120SET2 Aftermarket Mikuni butterfly valve MOUNTING SCREWS, flat-head 18-8 stainless steel socket head cap screw with a 2mm hex-drive, set of 2:
$ 1.95

HCP7120SET8 Aftermarket Mikuni butterfly valve MOUNTING SCREWS, flat-head 18-8 stainless steel socket head cap screw with a 2mm hex-drive, set of 8:
$ 5.50



HCP7346 Aftermarket Mikuni butterfly valve MOUNTING SCREW, flat-head black-oxide coated alloy steel socket head cap screw with a 2mm hex-drive, each:
$ 1.00

HCP7346SET2 Aftermarket Mikuni butterfly valve MOUNTING SCREWS, flat-head black-oxide coated alloy steel socket head cap screw with a 2mm hex-drive, set of 2:
$ 1.95

HCP7346SET8 Aftermarket Mikuni butterfly valve MOUNTING SCREWS, flat-head black-oxide coated alloy steel socket head cap screw with a 2mm hex-drive, set of 8:
$ 5.50



vv2) Aftermarket small parts NEEDLE FILES SET. This set of 12 miniature swiss files allows you to easily get into those tight spots with precise control. A variety of files----round, flat, triangle---all have easy-grip round knurled handles. Each file is approximately, 6" long. Works great for knocking the peening off the back of the original Mikuni throttle shaft screws before you attempt to remove them.

HCP9802 Aftermarket small parts NEEDLE FILES SET.
$ 14.95




ts5) OEM and aftermarket Mikuni carb throttle shaft retaining E-CLIP...these shaft retainer clips go directly "outside" of the plastic shim washers listed above on the #1 and #4 carbs only. Used on all XJ550, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models.


HCP6836 OEM throttle shaft end retaining E-CLIP, bright plated spring steel, each:
$ 3.50

HCP6836SET2 OEM throttle shaft end retaining E-CLIPS, set of 2:
$ 6.75


HCP905 Aftermarket throttle shaft end retaining E-CLIP, black-phosphate coated spring steel as original, each:
$ 1.00

HCP905SET2 Aftermarket throttle shaft end retaining E-CLIPS, set of 2:
$ 1.50


HCP2909 Aftermarket throttle shaft end retaining E-CLIP, type 420 stainless spring steel, each:
$ 1.75

HCP2909SET2 Aftermarket throttle shaft end retaining E-CLIPS, set of 2:
$ 3.00




MIKUNI IDLE MIXTURE SCREW PARTS:

NOTE: idle mixture screws are also referred to as "pilot mixture screws" or "pilot screws".

If you've never delved into the guts of your carburetor idle mixture screw port, it can sometimes be confusing. Here's the playbook for this critical area:

If we were looking at a cut-away of the carb body/idle mixture screw bore, the order of parts, from bottom to top, would be:

a) HCP895 o-ring
b) HCP896 spring seat washer
c) HCP6574 tension spring
d) the idle mixture screw
e) the metal anti-tamper cap.

What is mostly confusing is the order of the o-ring versus the spring seat washer....which goes in the hole first? The answer is that the HCP895 O-ring does. The HCP896 washer primarily acts as the lower "seat" for the HCP6574 tension spring, while also keeping the o-ring firmly and securely in place.



ims3) OEM Mikuni IDLE MIXTURE SCREW SET is correct for all original XJ550, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, and XJ900 carbs.

Each complete set contains one brass slot-headed idle mixture adjustment Screw, the mixture screw Spring, the spring Washer, and the sealing O-Ring. NOTE: the tension spring contained in this kit is not the correct length for the XJ650 Turbo, XJ900RK, or XJ1100 models, but will work.

HCP3745 OEM Mikuni IDLE MIXTURE SCREW SET....contains the brass idle mixture screw, spring, spring washer, and the o-ring. Each:
$ 16.95

HCP3745SET4 OEM Mikuni IDLE MIXTURE SCREW SETS, set of 4:
$ 64.95



ddd) Aftermarket Mikuni IDLE MIXTURE SCREW O-RING.....a "must-replace" item when rebuilding your carbs. Made of long-lasting, fuel-resistant Buna-N material.

HCP895 Aftermarket Mikuni idle mixture screw O-RING, fits all XJ550, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, XJ900, and XJ1100 carbs, each:
$ 1.50

HCP895SET4 Aftermarket Mikuni idle mixture screw O-RINGS, set of 4:
$ 4.95


eee) Aftermarket Mikuni IDLE MIXTURE SCREW SPRING SEAT WASHER.....also a "must-replace" item when rebuilding your carbs. Made of long-lasting, fuel- and water-resistant 18-8 stainless steel material.

HCP896 Aftermarket Mikuni idle mixture screw spring seat WASHER, fits all XJ550, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, XJ900, and XJ1100 carbs, each:
$ 1.75

HCP896SET4 Aftermarket Mikuni idle mixture screw spring seat WASHERS, set of 4:
$ 5.95



ims6) Aftermarket carb IDLE MIXTURE SCREW TENSION SPRING, brand new reproductions exactly replace damaged, rusted, or missing originals. High-strength carbon-steel coil springs have a baked yellow-zinc plating as original.

HCP6574 Aftermarket reproduction idle mixture screw TENSION SPRING, fits Mikuni carbs used on all XJ550, XJ700-X, and XJ750-X models, each:
$ 3.50

HCP6574SET4 Aftermarket reproduction idle mixture screw TENSION SPRINGS, set of 4:
$ 10.95



HCP8544 Aftermarket reproduction idle mixture screw TENSION SPRING, fits Mikuni carbs used on all XJ650 Turbo, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models, each:
$ 4.95

HCP8544SET4 Aftermarket reproduction idle mixture screw TENSION SPRINGS, set of 4:
$ 14.95




ims3) OEM and aftermarket idle mixture screw bore hole TAMPER CAPS, original round aluminum cap exactly replaces the original brass sealing cap and has the small breather hole in the center as original. Aftermarket rubber plug makes installation and removal a breeze, and is highly recommended as a replacement for the original style cap.

HCP3748 OEM Mikuni idle mixture screw bore hole aluminum TAMPER CAP, each:
$ 5.00

HCP3748SET4 OEM Mikuni idle mixture screw bore hole TAMPER CAPS, set of 4:
$ 19.00



HCP7376 Aftermarket Mikuni idle mixture screw bore hole RUBBER PLUG, tapered design with mushroom head allows repeated removal and re-use. NOTE: maybe a slightly loose fit on some models; if so, use a small amount of gasket or rubber adhesive to secure firmly in place (just a thin smear will do). Waterproof and dustproof design keeps the screw away from dirt and moisture, while also allowing for easy removal for tuning purposes. Each:
$ 4.50

HCP7376SET4 Aftermarket Mikuni idle mixture screw bore hole RUBBER PLUGS, set of 4:
$ 14.95



HCP2398 THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed uncoated steel. For use on all Mikuni idle mixture screw ports, for models using ultra-fine threaded idle mixture screws. NOTE: these threaded holes almost always need cleaning or re-tapping.
$ 33.00


HCP254 Idle Mixture Screw REMOVAL AND ADJUSTER TOOL, fits all Mikuni idle mixture screws.
$ 17.95



MIKUNI IDLE SPEED SCREW PARTS:

Not to be confused with the idle MIXTURE screw listed above, the IDLE SPEED SCREW is the large knurled-head screw that lives dead center, at the bottom of the carb rack, in-between the #2 and #3 cars, and pointing straight back. This screw is used to adjust the idle speed of the engine, and has no effect on the idle mixture nor the carb (engine) "synch" settings!


HCP5161 OEM idle speed ADJUSTMENT SCREW AND SPRING SET, fits all XJ550, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, and XJ900RK models.
$ 24.95


HCP9848 Aftermarket Mikuni idle speed screw rubber GROMMET, fits into the lower carb rack bracket opening where the idle speed screw enters the bracket. This replacement grommet is quite a bit larger than the stock grommet, but fits and works properly. Use a little bit of silicone grease on the screw's shaft where it passes through this grommet and it will be silky-smooth in operation. Fits all XJ550, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, and XJ900RK models
$ 1.95


HCP4024 Aftermarket Mikuni carb idle speed screw WASHER, not an original part, but if you use a set of these thin flat plastic shimming washers in-between the spring and the screw, and between the spring and the bracket (in other words, on either end of the spring), it greatly reduces the friction between the two and makes the idle screw silky-smooth to adjust! Fits all XJ550, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models Each:
$ 0.75




MIKUNI CARB STARTER-ENRICHMENT CIRCUIT-CHOKE SYSTEM PARTS:

The starter (choke) circuit is prone to a number of problems, from clogged passages in the starter jet (down int he bowl) to worn or fractured plunger valves and their related hardware. We've got some of those hard-to-find parts to properly restore your system.

The starter circuit PLUNGER VALVES are the solid brass needle-tip valve that actually shuts off or opens the enrichment circuit. Worn tips or fractured heads renders these valves useless. These valves are SPRING-loaded, and retained in the starter valve port in the carb body by a threaded, hollow-center brass SEAT, which is then surrounded by a small rubber DUST CAP. In addition, XJ650 Turbo models used a rubber O-RING to provide an air-tight seal at the cover-to-carb body mating surface.


HCP5197 OEM Mikuni brass PLUNGER VALVE, fits all XJ550 models, each:
$ 17.95

HCP9933 OEM Mikuni brass PLUNGER VALVE, fits all XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, and XJ750-X models, each:
$ 27.95




HCP5198 OEM Mikuni brass plunger valve SPRING, fits all XJ550, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X and XJ750-X models, each:
$ 7.95




HCP9334 OEM Mikuni brass plunger valve threaded brass SEAT, fits all XJ550, XJ700-X and XJ750-X models, each:
$ 9.95



HCP9846 Aftermarket starter circuit plunger valve seat O-RING, correct for the XJ650 Turbo models (o-rings were only used in this area on Turbo carbs). Fits just under the head of the threaded plunger shaft cap. Each:
$ 1.50

HCP9846SET4 Aftermarket starter circuit plunger seat O-RINGS, correct for the XJ650 Turbo models (o-rings were only used in this area on Turbo carbs), set of 4:
$ 5.00



HCP9335 OEM Mikuni brass plunger valve threaded brass seat DUST CAP, fits all XJ550, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, and XJ750-X models, each:
$ 6.95



HCP9895 OEM Mikuni brass PLUNGER VALVE SET, contains the brass plunger Valve, the Spring, the threaded brass Seat, and the rubber seat Cap. Fits all XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, and XJ750-X models. NOTE: the threaded brass seat that comes with this set is not correct and will not fit the XJ650 Turbo models. Each:
$ 44.95





MIKUNI CARB FUEL SUPPLY AND BOWL OVERFLOW T-FITTINGS, CONNECTOR TUBES, AND O-RINGS:

mtz1) OEM Mikuni fuel inlet T-FITTING AND CONNECTOR SUPPLY TUBES. The swivelling plastic t-fitting is used as the intake port from the petcock and "splits" the fuel flow to the left and right sides of the carb banks, while the aluminum fuel connector pipes are used to connect the outer carbs to the center carbs for incoming fuel supply. The inlet T-fitting was plastic, and was equipped with built in anti-leak "ribs" where they enter the carb bodies, while the aluminum connector tubes use separate o-rings (listed further below) to provide a leak-proof connection into the carb bodies.

HCP5166 OEM plastic fuel inlet T-FITTING, use 1 on all XJ550 models, in-between the #2 and #3 carbs.
$ 33.95

HCP9865 OEM plastic fuel inlet T-FITTING, use 1 on all XJ700-X and XJ750-X models, in-between the #2 and #3 carbs.
$ 32.00




HCP5165 OEM aluminum fuel SUPPLY TUBE, use 1 each on all XJ550 models in-between the #1/2 and the #3/4 carbs. O-rings are included. Each:
$ 22.50

HCP5239 OEM aluminum fuel SUPPLY TUBE, use 1 each on all XJ650 Turbo, all XJ700-X, and XJ750-X models in-between the #1/2 and the #3/4 carbs; use 1 on XJ900RK models between the #2/3 carbs, includes the sealing o-rings. Each:
$ 22.95



HCP9866 OEM fuel bowl vent/overflow plastic T-FITTING, use 1 each on all XJ700-X and XJ750-X models in-between the #1/2 and #3/4 carbs.
$ 17.95

HCP9867 OEM fuel bowl vent/overflow plastic T-FITTING, use 1 each on all XJ900RK models in-between the #1/2 and #3/4 carbs.
$ 19.95


HCP9864 OEM fuel bowl vent/overflow aluminum CONNECTOR TUBE, use 1 each on all XJ650 Turbo models in-between the #2/3 carbs, includes the sealing o-rings. Each:
$ 19.95



mmm1) OEM and aftermarket Mikuni fuel rail connector pipe O-RING.....all fours carbs share a common fuel supply, and this fuel supply is distributed to each carb via either plastic, brass or aluminum tubes and T-fittings that connects one carb to another. These tubes fits into a machined bores in the carb base, and the tubes are sealed in their bores with these rubber o-rings. Additionally, XJ650 Turbo and XJ700-X and XJ750-X models also used bowl vent connectors (plastic T-fittings) that also used o-rings. NOTE: original seals were "D-rings" rather than "O-rings", but are now serviced only as o-rings, but are the correct shape and firmness to provide a leak-proof fit. You will only be able to access these seals if you break the carbs out of their rack! (and if you do break the rack, you need to replace these seals).

NOTE: on all Mikuni model carbs, the factory parts diagram show the use of a plastic, ribbed fuel inlet T-fitting that does NOT use any o-rings.....the molded in "ribs" are supposed to take the place of o-rings for sealing the t-fitting to the carb body. To be honest, like many of you have commented, I don't understand either how the ribs on the plastic fitting by themselves could have maintained an effective seal, but......I'm not fuel line engineer! You can always add an extra two o-rings to this t-fitting to provide a more secure connection.


- Use 4 seals per fuel connector pipe in-between carbs 1&2 and 3&4, or a total of 8 seals per entire carb rack, for Mikuni carbs used on all XJ550 models. NOTE: the plastic fuel inlet "T" fitting does not use o-rings.

- Use 4 seals per fuel connector pipe in-between carbs 1&2 and 3&4, and use 4 seals per bowl overflow connector pipes, for a total of 20 seals per entire carb rack, on the Mikuni carbs used on all XJ650 Turbo models. NOTE: the plastic fuel inlet "T" fitting does not use o-rings.

- Use 4 seals per fuel connector pipe in-between carbs 1 & 2 and in-between 3 & 4, and use 2 seals on each bowl overflow "T" connector pipes, or a total of 12 seals per entire carb rack, for Mikuni carbs used on all XJ700-X and XJ750-X models. NOTE: the plastic fuel inlet "T" fitting does not use o-rings, and the bowl overflow plastic T-connectors actually use a slightly larger o-ring. However, these o-rings will fit the bowl-overflow T-fittings, although they will result in a slightly more loose fitting pipe in the carb bores. Since these bowl overflow T-connectors don't actually carry fluid---they normally just vent fuel vapors---the slightly looser fitment is not an issue.

- In case you're wondering, XJ1100 models used two plastic T-fittings for fuel inlet supply, and those fittings do NOT use any o-rings. There are no bowl vent connector tubes on 1100's, so there are no o-rings used at all on 1100 models!


HCP3458 OEM Mikuni fuel line Tube O-RING, each:
$ 3.50

HCP3458SET8 OEM Mikuni fuel line Tube O-RINGS, set of 8:
$ 26.50

HCP3458SET12 OEM Mikuni fuel line Tube O-RINGS, set of 12:
$ 39.00

HCP3458SET20 OEM Mikuni fuel line Tube O-RINGS, set of 20:
$ 62.00



HCP6880 Aftermarket Mikuni fuel line Tube O-RING, made from a durable Buna-N rubber material, fits just like the originals at a much better price. Each:
$ 1.50

HCP6880SET8 Aftermarket Mikuni fuel line Tube O-RINGS, set of 8:
$ 8.50

HCP6880SET12 Aftermarket Mikuni fuel line Tube O-RINGS, set of 12:
$ 11.95

HCP6880SET20 Aftermarket Mikuni fuel line Tube O-RINGS, set of 20:
$ 18.95





MIKUNI FUEL AND AIR JETS:

MIKUNI MAIN FUEL JETS:



NOTE: stock Mikuni XJ series carbs used the following original main fuel jet sizes:

#100 1985 all XJ700-X models*
1991-94 XJ900
#102.5 XJ900RK US & Canada
XJ900RL and XJ900P (31A models)
XJ550L (1984) on cylinders #3 and #4
#105 1986 all XJ700-X models and all XJ750-X
XJ550L (1984) on cylinders #1 and #2
#107.5 XJ900 most 1983-90 except USA or Canada
#112.5 XJ550 all models and XJ1100
#125 XJ650 Turbo carbs for all cylinders**
#127.5 XJ650 Turbo carbs for cylinders #1 and #4**
#132.5 XJ650 Turbo carbs for cylinders #2 and #3**

NOTES:
* there are discrepancies between the parts manuals and the service manual information on the size of the 1985 XJ700-X main fuel jets; one source claims these carbs were equipped with #100 main fuel jets, while other sources claim a #105 size main fuel jet.

** there are discrepancies between the parts manuals and the service manual information on the size of the 1982-83 XJ650 Turbo main fuel jets; one source claims these carbs were equipped with #127.5/#132.5 combination of main fuel jets as described above, while other sources claim #125 size main fuel jets were used in all cylinders. Original carbs that we have explored have the #127.5/#132.5 combination of jets as shown above.

All the other sizes are for "tuning" or re-jetting purposes when changing intakes or exhaust systems.


HCP6900 OEM Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #105
HCP6901 OEM Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #107.5
HCP6902 OEM Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #110
HCP6903 OEM Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #112.5
HCP6904 OEM Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #115
HCP6905 OEM Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #117.5
HCP6906 OEM Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #120
HCP6908 OEM Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #125
HCP6909 OEM Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #127.5
HCP6910 OEM Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #130
HCP6911 OEM Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #132.5
HCP6912 OEM Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #135
HCP6913 OEM Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #137.5
HCP6914 OEM Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #140
HCP6915 OEM Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #142.5
HCP6916 OEM Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #145
HCP6917 OEM Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #147.5
HCP6918 OEM Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #150

All of the above OEM Mikuni Main Fuel Jets are priced as follows:
$ 5.50 each
or
$ 18.00 per set of 4


HCP6919 Aftermarket Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #90
HCP6920 Aftermarket Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #95
HCP6921 Aftermarket Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #100
HCP6922 Aftermarket Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #102.5
HCP6923 Aftermarket Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #105
HCP6924 Aftermarket Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #107.5
HCP6925 Aftermarket Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #110
HCP6926 Aftermarket Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #112.5
HCP6927 Aftermarket Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #115
HCP6928 Aftermarket Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #117.5
HCP6929 Aftermarket Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #120
HCP6930 Aftermarket Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #122.5
HCP6931 Aftermarket Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #125
HCP6932 Aftermarket Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #127.5
HCP6933 Aftermarket Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #130
HCP6934 Aftermarket Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #135
HCP6936 Aftermarket Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #140
HCP6937 Aftermarket Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #142.5
HCP6938 Aftermarket Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #145
HCP6939 Aftermarket Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #147.5
HCP6940 Aftermarket Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #150
HCP6941 Aftermarket Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #152.5
HCP6942 Aftermarket Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #155
HCP6943 Aftermarket Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #157.5
HCP6944 Aftermarket Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #160
HCP6945 Aftermarket Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #165
HCP6946 Aftermarket Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #170
HCP6947 Aftermarket Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #175
HCP6948 Aftermarket Mikuni MAIN FUEL JET #180

All of the above Aftermarket Mikuni Main Fuel Jets are priced as follows:
$ 2.50 each
or
$ 9.75 per set of 4



HCP5186 OEM Mikuni main jet SHIM WASHER, correct copper shim washer fits under the main fuel jet, in-between the jet and the emulsion tube. Fits all XJ550, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models. Each:
$ 1.75





MIKUNI MAIN AIR JETS:

Alas, the Mikuni BSxx series carbs used on XJ models---unlike their cousins the Hitachi HSCxx series carbs---did not have replaceable main jets. The main air jets on these models are in the carb throat, facing the airbox, and are a small, brass pressed-in tube that is non replaceable, and which we suggest you do NOT try to modify by drilling or enlarging.


And just in case anyone is wondering, here are the sizes of these non-removable main air jets in the various models:

#45: XJ900 all
#70: XJ550 all models and XJ650 Turbo models.
#120: XJ700-X all models and XJ750-X all models*
#140: XJ1100 models*

NOTE: we believe that the #120 and #140 sizes listed in the service manuals (from where the above information was gathered) may be incorrect, as these are gigantic sizes for main air jets. But since you can't replace them anyway, I suppose that it doesn't really matter........




MIKUNI PILOT FUEL JETS:

ef) OEM and aftermarket Mikuni brass PILOT FUEL JETS, sizes as follows, fits all XJ550, XJ650 Turbo, all XJ700-X and XJ750-X, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models.

NOTE: stock Mikuni XJ series carbs used the following original pilot fuel jet sizes:

#32.5 XJ650LK Turbo (1983)
#35 XJ550 all 1981-83 models, XJ650LJ Turbo (1982), and XJ700-X** all models
#37.5 XJ750-X and XJ900RK USA & Canada only
#40 XJ660L (1984) model, all XJ900 except USA or Canada
#47.5 XJ1100

NOTES:
** there are discrepancies between the parts manuals and the service manual information on the size of the 1985 XJ700-X pilot fuel jets; one source claims these carbs were equipped with #35 main fuel jets, while other sources claim a #37.5 size main fuel jet.

All the other sizes are for "tuning" or re-jetting purposes when changing intakes or exhaust systems.


HCP5223 OEM Mikuni PILOT FUEL JET #32.5
$ 15.00 each
or
$ 55.00 set of 4

HCP5183 OEM Mikuni PILOT FUEL JET #35
$ 15.00 each
or
$ 55.00 set of 4

HCP6890 OEM Mikuni PILOT FUEL JET #37.5
$ 14.00 each
or
$ 51.00 set of 4

HCP6889 OEM Mikuni PILOT FUEL JET #47.5
$ 16.50 each
or
$ 59.00 set of 4


HCP6949 Aftermarket Mikuni PILOT FUEL JET #30
HCP6950 Aftermarket Mikuni PILOT FUEL JET #32.5
HCP6951 Aftermarket Mikuni PILOT FUEL JET #35
HCP6952 Aftermarket Mikuni PILOT FUEL JET #37.5
HCP6953 Aftermarket Mikuni PILOT FUEL JET #40
HCP6954 Aftermarket Mikuni PILOT FUEL JET #42.5
HCP6955 Aftermarket Mikuni PILOT FUEL JET #45
HCP6956 Aftermarket Mikuni PILOT FUEL JET #47.5
HCP6957 Aftermarket Mikuni PILOT FUEL JET #50
HCP6958 Aftermarket Mikuni PILOT FUEL JET #52.5
HCP6959 Aftermarket Mikuni PILOT FUEL JET #55

All of the above Aftermarket Mikuni Pilot Fuel Jets are priced as follows:
$ 4.50 each
or
$ 14.00 per set of 4




MIKUNI PILOT AIR JETS:

Pilot air jets on the Mikuni BSxx series carbs are replaceable and are located under the diaphram cover on all XJ550 models, and XJ650 Turbo models, and in the carb throat, facing the airbox, on all XJ700-X, XJ750-X, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models.


ef) OEM and aftermarket Mikuni brass PILOT AIR JETS, sizes as follows, fits all XJ550, XJ650 (except Turbo), all XJ700-X and XJ750-X, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models.

NOTE: stock Mikuni XJ series carbs used the following original pilot air jet sizes:

#140 XJ700-X and XJ750-X models
#155 XJ550L (1984) models, 1983 XJ650 Turbo* models
#160 XJ900 all models
#165 XJ550 Maxim models (1981-83), 1982 XJ650 Turbo* models
#170 XJ550 Seca models, XJ650 Turbo*, and XJ1100

NOTE: *the yamaha parts books reference the use of #165 pilot air jets for the 1982 XJ650 Turbo models, and #155 pilot air jets for the 1983 XJ650 Turbo models. Original carbs that we have explored have the #170 jets as shown above.

All the other sizes are for "tuning" or re-jetting purposes when changing intakes or exhaust systems.


HCP5218 OEM Mikuni PILOT AIR JET #155
$ 8.50 each
or
$ 32.00 set of 4


HCP6892 OEM Mikuni PILOT AIR JET #160
$ 8.00 each
or
$ 30.00 set of 4


HCP5206 OEM Mikuni PILOT AIR JET #165
$ 6.50 each
or
$ 24.00 set of 4


HCP5171 OEM Mikuni PILOT AIR JET #170
$ 8.00 each
or
$ 30.00 set of 4



HCP6960 Aftermarket Mikuni PILOT AIR JET #110
HCP6961 Aftermarket Mikuni PILOT AIR JET #112.5
HCP6962 Aftermarket Mikuni PILOT AIR JET #115
HCP6963 Aftermarket Mikuni PILOT AIR JET #117.5
HCP6964 Aftermarket Mikuni PILOT AIR JET #120
HCP6965 Aftermarket Mikuni PILOT AIR JET #122.5
HCP6966 Aftermarket Mikuni PILOT AIR JET #125
HCP6967 Aftermarket Mikuni PILOT AIR JET #130
HCP6968 Aftermarket Mikuni PILOT AIR JET #135
HCP6969 Aftermarket Mikuni PILOT AIR JET #137.5
HCP6970 Aftermarket Mikuni PILOT AIR JET #140
HCP6971 Aftermarket Mikuni PILOT AIR JET #142.5
HCP6972 Aftermarket Mikuni PILOT AIR JET #145
HCP6973 Aftermarket Mikuni PILOT AIR JET #147.5
HCP6974 Aftermarket Mikuni PILOT AIR JET #150


All of the above Aftermarket Mikuni Pilot Air Jets are priced as follows:
$ 2.50 each
or
$ 9.50 per set of 4



WHAT ABOUT RE-JETTING FOR PODS, ETC?:

It's a question we get asked often and unfortunately, one that we cannot answer honestly about your specific bike besides with "it depends".

Which is a nice way of saying "you're about to enter the seventh circle of hell......."!

Carb jet tuning required by aftermarket modifications is somewhat of a black art, part science, part skill, part luck. It depends on the current state of tune of your engine, your altitude, the mix of aftermarket parts on your bike, etc........a lot of variables.

The best advice we can offer is: Just Say No. Don't do it! Leave everything stock!

But, since most people---with good reason, I might add---don't always listen to our well-intentioned advice, then the next best recommendation we can offer is: "if you want more power get a bigger bike!".

And since that doesn't cut it with many owners, either, for the remaining stalwarts out there who insist on "experimenting" with aftermarket intake and exhaust systems, here's the best information that we've come across to give you some GUIDANCE, which you should take as just that, and not as ANSWERS, because it isn't!



MAIN FUEL JET SIZE CHANGES NEEDED PER TYPICAL MODIFICATION:


Typical Exhaust Changes:

+2 main fuel jet size for custom 4-into-2 exhaust

or

+4 main fuel jet sizes for 4-into-1 exhaust

or

+4 main jet sizes for no muffler (open headers)


Typical Intake Changes:

+2 main fuel jet sizes for single K&N filter (inside a stock airbox)

or

+2 main fuel jet size for drilling holes in the airbox with stock filter

or

+4 main fuel jet sizes for individual pod filters (no airbox)



Additional changes:

- Add up all the main fuel jet size increases and subtract 2 sizes.

- Decrease main fuel jet size by 2 sizes per every 2000' above sea level.

- Under a mis-match condition, such as when using pod filters with a 100% stock exhaust, or 4-into-1 header with stock filter and air box, then subtract 2 main fuel jet sizes.


PILOT FUEL JET SIZES CHANGES NEEDED PER TYPICAL MODIFICATION:

Pilot fuel jet size changes are related only to the change in main fuel jet sizes according to the main fuel jet size formula described above. Note that this pilot fuel jet rule is for the main fuel jet size change BEFORE any main fuel jet altitude compensation is factored in:

Increase the pilot fuel jet size +1 for every +3 main fuel jet size increases.

Additional changes:

- Decrease pilot fuel jet size by 1 for every 6000' above sea level.



PRECAUTIONS:

- Make sure your carbs are in perfect working order before making jet changes....meaning fully cleaned internally and rebuilt, operating properly in their stock configuration, proper sized air jets and needles, etc. Otherwise, you'll like find that all of your efforts are going to be a HUGE waste of time.

- Check plug color often and adjust as needed, 2 main fuel jet sizes at a time and 1 pilot fuel jet size at a time. Bright white plug insulators are a sign of an overly lean fuel mixture condition and WILL cause damage to your engine over time, up to and including engine seizure!

- Synch the carbs after each jet change.

- Make sure the floats are set correctly

- Seriously consider purchasing a Colortune Plug Tuning kit.

- You may find it necessary to make changes to the size or shimming of the main jet needle. There are no guidelines on what or how to do these changes, this is true trial-and-error tuning!



EXAMPLE:

A 1982 XJ550RJ Seca using an aftermarket Supertrapp 4-into-1 exhaust and a single K&N air filter in the stock, unmodified airbox. Bike is primarily operated at an altitude of 2600 feet above sea level.

XJ550 Seca Stock Mikuni BS28-series Carb Jetting:

#112.5 Main Fuel Jet
#35 Pilot Fuel Jet
#70 Main Air Jet
#170 Pilot Air Jet
4GZ11 Needle


MAIN FUEL JET SIZE CALCULATIONS:

Changes made:

Exhaust:
4 into 1 with Supertrapp = +4 Sizes Main Fuel Jet

Intake:
K&N Pod Filters = +4 sizes Main Fuel Jet
----------------------------
Equals: +8 main fuel jet sizes above baseline
Subtract: -2 main fuel jet size per formula above
----------------------------
Equals: +6 main fuel jet sizes due to modifications, thus:

Stock main fuel jet size is: #112.5
+ 6 additional sizes
= a #118.5 main fuel jet size
---------------------------
Subtract: -2 main fuel jet sizes for Altitude of 2500' Average

= #118.5 calculated from above
-2 jet sizes for altitude adjustment

= a #116.5 main fuel jet size.


PILOT FUEL JET SIZE CALCULATIONS:

The formula is: +1 pilot jet size increase for every +3 main jet sizes increased.

Stock pilot fuel jet size is: #35
+ 2 additional jet sizes (since we went up +6 main fuel jet sizes before the altitude compensation was factored in):

= a #37 pilot fuel jet size.

Note that no altitude compensation is needed on the pilot fuel jet since our elevation is less than 6000' a-s-l.


------------------------------

RESULT:

A #116.5 Main Fuel Jet and #37 Pilot Fuel Jet is A GOOD STARTING POINT.

******************************************************

Note that the above calculations do NOT take into account any possible changes in the sizes of the air jets nor the main needle size, which are additional variables and opportunities for tuning excellence (or frustration!).

For further insights and understanding, the Holy Grail (meaning: the whole miserable, un-varnished truth of what a real chore carb tuning is going to be, written by people who actually know what they're talking about, rather than by people who are trying to sell you something) can be found at:

www.factorypro.com

and then click on the "Product Support/Technical Support" link at the top of the page, then on the "Motorcycle Tuning Tech" link, and then the "CV Carb Tuning" link........and then read, weep, study, and do....if you still dare to! HINT: if reading through it makes you think to yourself "sheesh, this sounds like an incredible amount of effort!", well, you're right! That's just some of the joys (and pitfalls) of getting to play "tuning engineer", which is what you're going to be doing. Yamaha probably has 10 of those types of guys on staff, and millions of dollars of test equipment, both physical and computer-aided, that allowed them to get the mixture settings just right---from an overall drivability AND power output standpoint----and now, since you're changing the airflow parameters thru the engine, you'll have to figure it all out "from scratch", but WITHOUT the benefit of 10 trained engineers and all that test equipment and experience.

That's why we warn you that setting up a bike for pods can be quite a bit of trial-and-error procedure. You can make the calculations according to what is shown in that guideline and then order the jets that the "formula" recommends, and that should serve as a good STARTING POINT............you may (or may not!) have to do more tuning and trial-and-erroring substitution of different jet sizes, etc. to get it performing to you satisfaction, with the recognition that you may ALWAYS end up with a situation that has some kinds of trade-offs.....lazy at the lower end but runs well at mid/upper-ranges, or runs well at the lower end but a "flat-spot" at some other rpm range, etc. Unfortunately there is no magic formula........you might want to read through the factorypro.com article that I list at the end of that section, and you will get a better understanding of what is involved to get the carbs set-up properly in a non-stock configuration.




MIKUNI MAIN JET NEEDLES:

mjw1) Aftermarket Mikuni main jet needle TUNING WASHERS, these precision ground 18-8 stainless steel shim washers are used to raise the main jet needle height slightly, in order to allow performance tuning modifications when the stock intake or exhaust system has been modified. Tuning washers fit on top of the plastic needle cap and underneath the needle cap clip. Each washer is .025mm thick, and multiple washers can be used to provide the proper tuning desired. Fits all XJ550, 650 Turbo, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models.


HCP7142 aftermarket 18-8 stainless steel TUNING WASHER, each:
$ 1.95

HCP7142SET4 aftermarket 18-8 stainless steel TUNING WASHERS, set of 4:
$ 6.00

HCP7142SET8 aftermarket 18-8 stainless steel TUNING WASHERS, set of 8:
$ 10.00

HCP7142SET12 aftermarket 18-8 stainless steel TUNING WASHERS, set of 12:
$ 12.00



MIKUNI MAIN JET NOZZLE OR EMULSION TUBE:

Called by a variety of names, the main fuel jet tube is technically known as the MAIN NOZZLE, although they also go by the name of "power valves", "emulsion tubes", or some choice four-letter words whie you are trying to remove them from their bore hole in the carb body! These 2-3" long tubes have a series of very precise, very small holes that actually pass the fuel from the main fuel jet around the jet needle, and are what provide the final, precise metering of the fuel mixture through the main jet.

Commonly clogged and dirty-filthy beyond belief, they are easy to damage while removing them or during the cleaner process. If the holes are enlarged, or the threads in the jet end damaged, these nozzles should be replaced, or your bike will never run properly.


HCP5224 OEM Mikuni brass MAIN NOZZLE, fits all XJ650 Turbo models, each:
$ 41.00

HCP5224SET4 OEM Mikuni brass MAIN NOZZLES, fits all XJ650 Turbo models, set of 4:
$ 159.95




HCP9899 OEM Mikuni brass MAIN NOZZLE, fits all XJ900RK models, each:
$ 39.00

HCP9899SET4 OEM Mikuni brass MAIN NOZZLES, fits all XJ900RK models, set of 4:
$ 149.95





MIKUNI CARB BOWL PARTS:

ii) OEM and aftermarket Mikuni FLOAT BOWL GASKETS & O-RINGS:

Die-cut replacement carb bowl-to-carb body gaskets correctly replace your torn or leaking originals. Note that the XJ650 Turbo body used a shape-molded o-ring in place of a standard paper gasket.



For XJ550 models:

HCP5182 OEM Mikuni carb FLOAT BOWL GASKET, each:
$ 4.75

HCP5182SET4 OEM Mikuni carb FLOAT BOWL GASKETS, set of 4:
$ 17.95


HCP863 Aftermarket Mikuni carb FLOAT BOWL GASKET, each:
$ 4.00

HCP863SET4 Aftermarket Mikuni carb FLOAT BOWL GASKETS, set of 4:
$ 13.00




For XJ650 Turbo models:

HCP5222 OEM carb bowl-to-body rubber FLOAT BOWL O-RING, for all XJ650 Turbo models, each:
$ 13.95

HCP5222SET4 OEM carb FLOAT BOWL O-RINGS, set of 4:
$ 54.00




For XJ700 "X", XJ750-X, and XJ900RK models:

HCP8563 OEM Mikuni carb FLOAT BOWL GASKET, each:
$ 7.50

HCP8563SET4 OEM Mikuni carb FLOAT BOWL GASKETS, set of 4:
$ 27.00


HCP1674 Aftermarket Mikuni carb FLOAT BOWL GASKET, each:
$ 4.00

HCP1674SET4 Aftermarket Mikuni carb FLOAT BOWL GASKETS, set of 4:
$ 13.00




For XJ1100 models:

HCP6575 OEM Mikuni carb FLOAT BOWL GASKET, each:
$ 14.95

HCP6575SET4 OEM Mikuni carb FLOAT BOWL GASKETS, set of 4:
$ 57.00


HCP1675 Aftermarket Mikuni carb FLOAT BOWL GASKET, each:
$ 4.00

HCP1675SET4 Aftermarket Mikuni carb FLOAT BOWL GASKETS, set of 4:
$ 13.00

NOTE: if you use any type of sealant on these gaskets, use it on the BOWL side of the gasket (something like Permatex Copper Spray-A-Gasket is a fine choice). On the carb body side of the gasket, use a light oil....like Marvel Mystery Oil or the like....and barely moisten the gasket surface. This will allow the new gasket to soften slightly and allows the gasket to form itself to the raised mounting ridge that is cast onto the carb body mating flange.....and also allows for an easy, no-stick removal of the float bowl in the future!




MIKUNI CARB FLOATS AND FLOAT NEEDLE VALVES:

fs4) Aftermarket Mikuni float valve NEEDLE ONLY...for those who wish to do an extreme-budget rebuild, you can buy the rubber-tipped float valve needle by itself (without its brass seat).

For use on all XJ550 models, all XJ700-X and XJ750-X models, all XJ900RK models with the clipped-to-the-float style seat, and all XJ1100 models:

HCP1670 Aftermarket Mikuni float valve NEEDLE with retainer clip, each:
$ 8.50

HCP1670SET4 Aftermarket Mikuni float valve NEEDLES with retainer clip, set of 4:
$ 29.00


For use on all XJ650 Turbo, and all XJ900RK models with the non-clipped to the float style of needle/seat:

HCP1671 Aftermarket Mikuni float valve NEEDLE only, each:
$ 4.50

HCP1671SET4 Aftermarket Mikuni float valve NEEDLES only, set of 4:
$ 17.00




kk) OEM and Aftermarket Mikuni FLOAT NEEDLE VALVE ASSEMBLY---contains the float needle with retainer clip (if used), float valve brass seat, the seat o-ring, and the seat filter screen.

NOTE: XJ900RK models can use either a valve with a 2.0mm seat opening and which uses a non-clipped-to-the-float needle style, or they can use a valve with a larger 2.3mm seat opening and which uses a clipped-to-the-float style of needle. THE TWO STYLES ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE---you cannot use one style seat with the other style needle. You CAN, however, interchange the complete needle/seat units on all XJ900RK (Mikuni BS33 series) carbs. However, you should use all four of the same style in a complete set of carbs. Generally speaking, we've seen the non-clipped needle and seat style valves (with the 2.0mm valve seat orifice) used mostly on North American models, and the clipped needle and seat style valves (with the 2.3mm valve seat orifice) used on the non-North American models.



HCP5191 OEM single FLOAT NEEDLE VALVE ASSEMBLY, fits all XJ550 and XJ1100 carbs, each:
$ 28.00

HCP5191SET4 OEM FLOAT NEEDLE VALVE ASSEMBLIES, set of 4:
$ 99.00



HCP1672 Aftermarket single FLOAT NEEDLE VALVE ASSEMBLY, fits all XJ550 and XJ1100 carbs, each:
$ 29.95

HCP1672SET4 Aftermarket FLOAT NEEDLE VALVE ASSEMBLIES, set of 4:
$ 109.00



HCP5229 OEM single FLOAT NEEDLE VALVE ASSEMBLY, for all XJ650 Turbo models. Includes the seat, needle, and seat o-ring. Seat filter screen is not included and must be ordered separate. Each:
$ 66.00

HCP5229SET4 OEM FLOAT NEEDLE VALVE ASSEMBLIES, set of 4:
$ 239.00



HCP8562 OEM single FLOAT NEEDLE VALVE ASSEMBLY, for all XJ700-X, XJ750-X. Also fits the XJ900RK with the 2.3mm orifice and the clipped-to-the-float style needle. Each:
$ 59.95

HCP8562SET4 OEM FLOAT NEEDLE VALVE ASSEMBLIES, set of 4:
$ 229.00



HCP1673 Aftermarket single FLOAT NEEDLE VALVE ASSEMBLY, for all XJ700-X, XJ750-X. Also fits the XJ900RK with the 2.3mm orifice and the clipped-to-the-float style needle. Each:
$ 16.00

HCP1673SET4 Aftermarket FLOAT NEEDLE VALVE ASSEMBLIES, set of 4:
$ 57.00



HCP8560 OEM single FLOAT NEEDLE VALVE ASSEMBLY, for all XJ900RK models with a 2.0mm seat orifice and non-clipped-to-the-float style needle, each:
$ 65.00

HCP8560SET4 OEM FLOAT NEEDLE VALVE ASSEMBLIES, set of 4:
$ 229.00



fnv1) OEM and aftermarket Mikuni float needle valve SEAT O-RING. These o-rings are included in the replacement float needle valve assemblies listed above; but, if you want to re-use your original valve seats, we still recommend the replacement of the seat-to-carb body o-rings.


HCP5192 OEM Mikuni float needle valve SEAT O-RING, tough and durable buna-N material. Fits all XJ550, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models. Each:
$ 3.50

HCP5192SET4 OEM Mikuni float needle valve SEAT O-RINGS, tough and durable buna-N material, set of 4:
$ 12.95



HCP7406 Aftermarket Mikuni float needle valve SEAT O-RING, tough and durable buna-N material. Fits all XJ550, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models. Each:
$ 1.50

HCP7406SET4 Aftermarket Mikuni float needle valve SEAT O-RINGS, tough and durable buna-N material, set of 4:
$ 4.50



fnv2) OEM and aftermarket Mikuni float needle valve SEAT FILTER SCREEN. These small domed mesh screen filters snap onto the top of the float needle valve seat and help to keep crud, junk, and other kinds of cosmic debris out of the carbs. These filter screens are included in the replacement float needle valve assemblies and lower end rebuild kits listed above; but, if you want to re-use your original valve seats, we still recommend the replacement of these screens. Fits all XJ550, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X and XJ750-X models, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models.


HCP5193 OEM Mikuni float valve needle SEAT FILTER SCREEN, use one per carb, each:
$ 8.50

HCP5193SET4 OEM Mikuni float valve needle SEAT FILTER SCREENS, use one per carb, set of 4:
$ 32.00



HCP2735 Aftermarket Mikuni float valve needle SEAT FILTER SCREEN, use one per carb, each:
$ 8.00

HCP2735SET4 Aftermarket Mikuni float valve needle SEAT FILTER SCREENS, use one per carb, set of 4:
$ 28.00



fh4) OEM and Aftermarket Mikuni float valve mounting bracket RETAINING SCREW. Original screws are panhead, phillips drive alloy steel and strip out easily. Our original and aftermarket replacement screws prevent future problems....it's a good idea to replace these whenever you remove your float needle valve seats. Fits all XJ550, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models. Use 1 per carb.

HCP5187 OEM Mikuni float valve mounting bracket RETAINING SCREW, panhead phillips-drive alloy steel, each:
$ 1.00

HCP5187SET4 OEM Mikuni float valve mounting bracket RETAINING SCREWS, set of 4:
$ 2.75



HCP6708 Aftermarket Mikuni float valve mounting bracket RETAINING SCREW, panhead phillips-drive zinc-plated alloy steel, each:
$ 0.50

HCP6708SET4 Aftermarket Mikuni float valve mounting bracket RETAINING SCREWS, set of 4:
$ 1.75



HCP6709 Aftermarket Mikuni float valve mounting bracket RETAINING SCREW, panhead phillips-drive 18-8 stainless steel, bright finish, each:
$ 1.00

HCP6709SET4 Aftermarket Mikuni float valve mounting bracket RETAINING SCREWS, set of 4:
$ 3.00



HCP6710 Aftermarket Mikuni float valve mounting bracket RETAINING SCREW, panhead phillips-drive 18-8 stainless steel, black-oxide coated finish, each:
$ 1.25

HCP6710SET4 Aftermarket Mikuni float valve mounting bracket RETAINING SCREWS, set of 4:
$ 3.50



HCP6712 Aftermarket Mikuni float valve mounting bracket RETAINING SCREW, socket head cap screw, hex-drive, 18-8 stainless steel, bright finish, each:
$ 1.00

HCP6712SET4 Aftermarket Mikuni float valve mounting bracket RETAINING SCREWS, set of 4:
$ 2.50



HCP6711 Aftermarket Mikuni float valve mounting bracket RETAINING SCREW, socket head cap screw, hex-drive, 18-8 stainless steel, black-oxide coated finish, each:
$ 1.00

HCP6711SET4 Aftermarket Mikuni float valve mounting bracket RETAINING SCREWS, set of 4:
$ 2.50




fs8) OEM and aftermarket Mikuni carb fuel bowl FLOAT and FLOAT PIN, brand new replacement units.


HCP5188 OEM Mikuni FLOAT, float only (pin is not included and must be ordered separate), fits all XJ550 and XJ650 Turbo models, each:
$ 27.95

HCP5188SET4 OEM Mikuni FLOATS, set of 4:
$ 104.95



HCP9940 Aftermarket Mikuni FLOAT and FLOAT PIN SET, fits all XJ550 and XJ650 Turbo models, each:
$ 21.00

HCP9940SET4 Aftermarket Mikuni FLOAT and FLOAT PIN SETS, set of 4:
$ 79.95



HCP9944 OEM Mikuni FLOAT, float only (pin is not included and must be ordered separate), fits all XJ700-X, XJ750-X, XJ900RK, and all XJ1100 models, each:
$ 27.95

HCP9944SET4 OEM Mikuni FLOATS, set of 4:
$ 104.95



HCP1668 Aftermarket Mikuni FLOAT and FLOAT PIN SET, fits all XJ700-X, XJ750-X, XJ900RK, and all XJ1100 models, each:
$ 27.00

HCP1668SET4 Aftermarket Mikuni FLOAT and FLOAT PIN SETS, set of 4:
$ 102.00




HCP5190 OEM Mikuni FLOAT PIN, fits all XJ550, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, XJ900RK, and all XJ1100 models, each:
$ 2.95

HCP5190SET4 OEM Mikuni FLOAT PINS, set of 4:
$ 10.95





oo) Aftermarket Mikuni carb LOWER END REBUILD KIT---contains the float needle with retainer clip, float valve brass seat with the filter screen, the seat o-ring, the idle mixture screw block-off cap, the idle mixture screw o-ring (which is the wrong size----it's way too fat, but it's in there anyway!), a bowl drain screw o-ring, and a reproduction bowl gasket.



XJ550 models:

HCP1669 Aftermarket Mikuni carb LOWER END REBUILD KIT, each:
$ 19.00

HCP1669SET4 Aftermarket Mikuni carb LOWER END REBUILD KITS, set of 4:
$ 69.00




MIKUNI CARB VACUUM DIAPHRAM AND PISTON UNITS:

fs6) OEM and aftermarket Mikuni carb VACUUM DIAPHRAM AND PISTON ASSEMBLY, the slide piston with the non-detachable rubber vacuum diaphram seal. Although it is possible to repair TINY pin-holes that occur in original diaphrams, anything greater than that will require replacement, as these diaphram are under a lot of pressure and stress and the continued flexing of the rubber will eventually lead to failure.

The long slinky SPRING provides the proper pressure and resistance to the movement of the piston unit under a variety of vacuum signal conditions, and stretched or damaged springs should be replaced. Ideally, all fours springs should be replaced all at once to insure equal response from each vacuum piston.


HCP5174 OEM Mikuni VACUUM DIAPHRAM AND PISTON ASSEMBLY, fits all XJ550 models, each:
$ 259.95

HCP5174SET4 OEM Mikuni VACUUM DIAPHRAM AND PISTON ASSEMBLIES, set of 4:
$ 959.95


HCP5173 OEM Mikuni vacuum piston SPRING,fits all XJ550 models, each:
$ 18.95

HCP5173SET4 OEM Mikuni vacuum piston SPRINGS,fits all XJ550 models, set of 4:
$ 69.95




HCP7118 OEM Mikuni VACUUM DIAPHRAM AND PISTON ASSEMBLY, fits all XJ700-X and XJ750-X models, each:
$ 259.95

HCP7118SET4 OEM Mikuni VACUUM DIAPHRAM AND PISTON ASSEMBLIES, set of 4:
$ 959.95


HCP9888 OEM Mikuni vacuum piston SPRING, fits all XJ700-X and XJ750-X models, each:
$ 17.95

HCP9888SET4 OEM Mikuni vacuum piston SPRINGS, fits all XJ700-X and XJ750-X models, set of 4:
$ 69.95




HCP7117 OEM Mikuni VACUUM DIAPHRAM AND PISTON ASSEMBLY, fits all XJ900RK, XJ900RL, XJ900N with BS35 or BS36 series carbs, and all XJ1100 models. NOTE: the piston no longer has the brass plating on it as original (this does not affect its performance or operation). Each:
$ 174.95

HCP7117SET4 OEM Mikuni VACUUM DIAPHRAM AND PISTON ASSEMBLIES, set of 4:
$ 679.95


HCP9889 OEM Mikuni vacuum piston SPRING, fits all XJ900RK models, each:
$ 24.95

HCP9889SET4 OEM Mikuni vacuum piston SPRINGS, fits all XJ900RK models, set of 4:
$ 94.95




HCP1667 Aftermarket Mikuni VACUUM DIAPHRAM AND PISTON ASSEMBLY, fits all XJ900RK and XJ1100 models, each:
$ 99.00

HCP1667SET4 Aftermarket Mikuni VACUUM DIAPHRAM AND PISTON ASSEMBLIES, set of 4:
$ 339.00



bb3) HCP8540 Aftermarket carb diaphram rubber RnR FLUID. Dissolved and chlorinated paraffin wax is the best (and perhaps the only) way to safely bring some life back into stiff, worn rubber material... such as that found in those all-important carb piston diaphrams. Years of hard life inside of your carb take their toll, and whenever your carb is apart for service, and generous application of this product will help to clean, maintain, and restore the flexibility, while prolonging their usable service life. 10cc dripper bottle contains enough fluid to do about eight diaphrams. Simple to use, spread on, wait a few seconds, wipe off, repeat and you're done!
$ 9.95


fms16) OEM and aftermarket Mikuni carb vacuum diaphram-piston assembly MOUNTING SCREWS, This flat metal disc fits into the bottom of the vacuum diaphram and serves as a lower seat for the diaphram spring, and also retains the main jet needle within the diaphram piston unit.

HCP9906 OEM vacuum diaphram MOUNTING SCREWS, fits all XJ1100 models.
$ 6.96



fms7) OEM and aftermarket Mikuni carb vacuum diaphram-piston assembly spring seat MOUNTING SCREWS, panhead phillips-drive screws secures the round spring seat plate to the bottom of the diaphram assembly. Fits all XJ550, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models. NOTE: the original screws on XJ550 and XJ650 Turbo models did NOT use a lockwasher; all others did use integral lock washers. Replacement screws listed below do not have integral lockwashers, and they can be ordered separate below. Use 2 per carb.


HCP5175 OEM Mikuni carb vacuum piston spring seat MOUNTING SCREW, yellow zinc-plated alloy steel, panhead, phillips-drive screw, each:
$ 1.00

HCP5175SET2 OEM Mikuni carb vacuum piston spring seat MOUNTING SCREWS, yellow zinc-plated alloy steel, panhead, phillips-drive screw, set of 2:
$ 1.90

HCP5175SET8 OEM Mikuni carb vacuum piston spring seat MOUNTING SCREWS, yellow zinc-plated alloy steel, panhead, phillips-drive screw, set of 8:
$ 6.00



HCP2907 Aftermarket Mikuni carb vacuum piston spring seat MOUNTING SCREW, zinc-plated alloy steel, panhead, phillips-drive screw, each:
$ 0.75

HCP2907SET2 Aftermarket Mikuni carb vacuum piston spring seat MOUNTING SCREWS, zinc-plated alloy steel, panhead, phillips-drive screw, set of 2:
$ 1.25

HCP2907SET8 Aftermarket Mikuni carb vacuum piston spring seat MOUNTING SCREWS, zinc-plated alloy steel, panhead, phillips-drive screw, set of 8:
$ 3.50



HCP105 Aftermarket Mikuni carb vacuum piston spring seat MOUNTING SCREW, 18-8 bright stainless steel, panhead, phillips-drive screw, each:
$ 1.50

HCP105SET2 Aftermarket Mikuni carb vacuum piston spring seat MOUNTING SCREWS, 18-8 bright stainless steel, panhead, phillips-drive screw, set of 2:
$ 2.50

HCP105SET8 Aftermarket Mikuni carb vacuum piston spring seat MOUNTING SCREWS, 18-8 bright stainless steel, panhead, phillips-drive screw, set of 8:
$ 7.50



HCP2908 Aftermarket Mikuni carb vacuum piston spring seat MOUNTING SCREW, black oxide coated alloy steel, panhead, phillips-drive screw, each:
$ 1.50

HCP2908SET2 Aftermarket Mikuni carb vacuum piston spring seat MOUNTING SCREWS, black oxide coated alloy steel, panhead, phillips-drive screw, set of 2:
$ 2.50

HCP2908SET8 Aftermarket Mikuni carb vacuum piston spring seat MOUNTING SCREWS, black oxide coated alloy steel, panhead, phillips-drive screw, set of 8:
$ 7.50



HCP7119 Aftermarket Mikuni carb vacuum piston spring seat screw LOCK WASHER, 18-8 stainless steel, each:
$ 0.50

HCP7119SET2 Aftermarket Mikuni carb vacuum piston spring seat screw LOCK WASHERS, 18-8 stainless steel, set of 2:
$ 0.75

HCP7119SET8 Aftermarket Mikuni carb vacuum piston spring seat screw LOCK WASHERS, 18-8 stainless steel, set of 8:
$ 1.50





MIKUNI CARBS HATS:

Mikuni Carb Hats:

Reproduction Mikuni CARB DIAPHRAM COVERS, commonly called carb "hats", are the bright upper covers with the "round dome" shape. Brand new stampings perfectly replace rusted and pitted originals, add a final "crowning" touch to your carb restoration project.


HCP9160 Aftermarket Mikuni POLISHED SILVER CHROME CARB HAT, mirror finish as used on the outboard carbs (#1 and #4) on all XJ550 models. NOTE: can be used on all fours carbs for a more decorative appearance. Each:
$ 32.95

HCP9160SET2 Aftermarket Mikuni POLISHED SILVER CHROME CARB HATS, set of 2:
$ 54.95

HCP9160SET4 Aftermarket Mikuni POLISHED SILVER CHROME CARB HATS, set of 4:
$ 89.95



HCP10010 Aftermarket Mikuni POLISHED GOLDEN CHROME CARB HAT, golden mirror finish. Fits all XJ550 models. NOTE: golden-chrome hats were never used originally on these models, but these are an attractive upgrade that have the same finish as was used on many of the "Midnight Maxim" models. Each:
$ 39.95

HCP10010SET2 Aftermarket Mikuni POLISHED GOLDEN CHROME CARB HATS, set of 2:
$ 59.95

HCP10010SET4 Aftermarket Mikuni POLISHED GOLDEN CHROME CARB HATS, set of 4:
$ 99.95



HCP9161 Aftermarket Mikuni NATURAL ZINC-CAD PLATED CARB HAT, dull silver finish as used on the inner carbs only (#2 and #3) on all XJ550 models. Each:
$ 27.95

HCP9161SET2 Aftermarket Mikuni NATURAL ZINC-CAD PLATED CARB HAT, set of 2:
$ 47.95

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FREE STANDARD SHIPPING {OR JUST $5.00 FOR PRIORITY MAIL} SHIPPING IN THE USA FOR ALL ORDERS OVER $100 !!!!

$7.50 STANDARD SHIPPING TO CANADA FOR ALL ORDERS OVER $100 !!!!

Paypal accepted. Worldwide shipping available. Shipping prices and insurance costs are NOT included in the prices of items unless specifically listed. Please write with your list of parts needs and I will be glad to quote your shipping costs to you.

You can either PM (Private Message) me through this website, e-mail us via the "email" button on the bottom of this post, or e-mail us directly at:

info @ xj4ever.com

PLEASE NOTE!: our e-mail address does NOT have spaces before or after the "@" symbol........the posting system on this website automatically adds blank spaces before and after that symbol as an anti-spam feature! Make sure you eliminate those blank spaces when sending us an e-mail! Our e-mail address does NOT have any blank spaces in it!!

PLEASE!: on each and every correspondence with us, please tell us what YEAR and MODEL bike you have (example: 1982 XJ650 Maxim) and what your NAME (first name, at least!) is......that information really makes life a bit easier for us, and insures a more timely and ACCURATE response from us back to you!

MORE XJ PARTS IN THE FOLLOWING POST!!