I tore-down my carbs this weekend with pretty good results for 3/4 cylinders. Also uncovered a pinhole in one of the diaphragms.

But AFTERWARDS, I read Rick's carb cleaning guide and I clearly missed a lot. I didn't even touch the enrichment valves so I'm guessing that's why one of my cylinders isn't firing.
May as well RVT that pinhole in the diaphragm too.

So round 1 was just a practice run, to be repeated again, only better / complete with bench synching.

Before I attack round two, what should I have on-hand?

Carb cleaner: any particular brand better than others? that doesn't damage rubber bits & pieces? How many cans or what size of can?
Spraying-out clogs / debris should I use carb cleaner for this or compressed air? (I don't have a compressor)
Cleaning / prepping diaphragms for reinstall what's best to clean these things that won't damage the fragile rubber?
Anything Else that a novice home mechanic might not know about to make the job easier? (besides proper tools, of course)

Since you have a running bike, you can pre-diagnose the 4 carbs before going back in.

* Spray water on the header pipes to see if a CYL is firing
* loosen then lift each "choke" fork individually, listen for a difference.
* run the pilot screw in and out (carefully) , listen again
* On the "dead" CYL, spray a whiff of starter fluid, to confirm it will fire.
* While running, check float levels using the clear tube method
* Take written notes of results.

The diaphragm can be patched with Liquid Electric tape and a piece from a Nitrilite disposable glove.

TIMEtoRIDE wrote:

* Spray water on the header pipes to see if a CYL is firing

I just used my hand on the exhaust, since I only ran it for 20-30 seconds. 1, 2 & 4 are running, #3 is the dead one.

TIMEtoRIDE wrote:

* On the "dead" CYL, spray a whiff of starter fluid, to confirm it will fire.

OK, one more thing to add to my checklist

TIMEtoRIDE wrote:

* While running, check float levels using the clear tube method

3 out of 4 drain screw are mush so I was thinking of using Manbot13s tip and use the one good float bowl to test each carb. Sounds like a long, messy & gas-wasting process but as long as I can validate the levels are good, it'll be worth it.

TIMEtoRIDE wrote:

The diaphragm can be patched with Liquid Electric tape and a piece from a Nitrilite disposable glove.

Excellent - thanks

Any particular brand or type of carb cleaner recommended?

Honestly, I think all carb cleaners are the same- just some kind of alcohol or soemthing, I but the $1.70 a can walmart delux and find it works fine, just grab 2 cans, it comes in hany soemtimes to clean grease and whatnot
the carb clean will work fine to clear cebris... also, I would reccomment buying soemthing like a dentist tool set orsomething pokey to clear out all the holes

*be sure to clear out EVERY hole in the emulsion tubes*

also, i always do this now- I clean the seat for the floats by cutting a q-tip in half, putting it in a drill, and putting some brasso (llike $2.50) on the end of the q-tip to ensure a good seat for the floats so they're not over flowing... you'll be amazed what the q-tips look like when you're done

you can use your hand too if you dont have a drill...

I have found some carb cleaners stronger than others, but Brake Parts cleaner seems to have more "kick" than carb cleaner, and is slightly cheaper- - go figure !!

Le Skid - - have you checked your valve clearances yet??
That needs to be done before all your fine- tuning.

Setting the floats IS a messy, gas wasting experience.
Don't do it indoors next to a pilot light !! Go outside and freeze

I use RickoMatics method to set float heights. When the carbs are off the bike use windshield washer fluid and a clear hose. Then you don't smell like gas when you are done. Just be sure after you are done you clean it out really good ,make sure you pull the needle seats and clean the fuel rail out good also.
BTW I like using Gumout carb cleaner or the blue cans from walmart. I actually think the blue cans work better cause it burns alot more than gumout when you get it in your eyes or on your skin.

xyxj650 wrote:

I use RickoMatics method to set float heights. When the carbs are off the bike use windshield washer fluid and a clear hose. Then you don't smell like gas when you are done. . .

I thought we weren't doing that anymore due to incorrect density ??
The floats are set in a "window" of less than 3 MM
Your floats would be set too high- - causing flooding and richness.

Not only incorrect density with windshield washer fluid, but I think it crystalizes if you don't clean it all out (probably dependnig what's actually in the mixute). Use (or buy) a small engine gas tank with a valve, and you shouldn't make too much of a mess.