I removed the cover to replace clean out oil level window (Which is still foggy) Now I cannot get the cable back into the throw arm (this is the right jargon correct?) I oiled it up (with motor oil) pushed and pulled but nothing. It won't budge. It was a pain just getting the cover back on, it finally jived with the rod on the inside, but not it wont budge. Where to go from here?

On the oil level window note. I have 2.6 quarts in, just as recommended, and I was watching the window as i put in the final .6 quarts. I still have not seen a bubble, or any indication that it is filling up. Any suggestions to fix this problem?

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p.s. This might be a nice picture if someone wants to label it for the tech section. Since i am going through this and will probably have to take the cover off a again I will be happy to take picts of the innards and email them to a member wanting to diagram it.

Can you move the Shaft that goes down inside the Case?

Whenn you replace the Cover,... you need to capture the "Push-rod" (Which is really a "Pull" Rod") and ease the Cover on while turning the Shaft ... to take-out the slack while the Cover is buttoned-up.

Then, when you get ready to attach the Cable ...
You have to Rotate the Shaft Clockwise. Hold it.
Set the Throwout Arm upon the Splines.
Fasten it.
Lever the Throwout Arm clockwise to affix the Cable end.
Make the final adjustment.

If anything that's supposed to move, ... isn't moving.

Start from Square One.

great Rick. In my collection of bikes I've joined other forums and almost non of them are as good as this one. The members' dedication is what makes it and yes folks, you know it, this is the text book example.

so remember my thread 2 weeks ago about my clutch being hard to pull, approximately 60lbs pressure!? I found the problem today.

it was the cable, a Brand New Cable, but it was the cable. the cable had no resistance At All when disconnected so when it gets connected and the resistance comes back it leads someone to look eslewhere. But today, with a bud, we routed the cable the most simplest way possible without the tank on and gave it a tug and it was better. I couldn't beleive it. so I put my finger on it and pushed it agains the frame as if the tank was on and Bam it was tight. WD40 fixed it but I'm still going to buy a high quality new one immediately. So now the cable is coming down the right side of the bike, UNDER the tank, not on the inside tunnel of it. Good luck everyone

You'd have been better-off using 3-In-1 Oil or a Capfull of the Oil you buy for the Bike.

WD-40 is closer to a Cleaner than it is a Lubricant.

Hey guys, I need some clarification on this. Finally got the stripped bolts of the clutch casing(?) and was able to get the cable back onto its perch, but it looks nothing like the drawing. Is there a difference with this on the 400s than the bigger bikes?

Ok, that pic does make it official, there is a difference on mine.

Can someone quickly tell me how to adjust the clutch play on my set up or point me in the right direction?

RickCoMatic wrote:

You'd have been better-off using 3-In-1 Oil or a Capfull of the Oil you buy for the Bike. WD-40 is closer to a Cleaner than it is a Lubricant.

Agreed, and I actually said I wanted to use Motor Oil but how the hell do I get it in there?! I used a Cable Luber Tool that accepted the straw of the aresol can

You undo the Cable from the Lever.
Elevate as high as possible.
Pass Cable end through neck of small funnel.
Duct Tape the Funnel Nect to the Cable ... Oil tight.
Keep the Cable and Funnel elevated.
Fill the Funnel with enough Oil to submerge the Cable end.
Let Gravity go to work.

As the Oil seeps into the Cable it find its way to the other end.
Where you need to put paper towels.
A bunch.
Until you drain the Funnel and stop the flow.

It can get messy but its very effective.

Started from square . Still couldn't move the lever...by hand. Reread this thread and saw something about my hand not having the mechanical advantage. I knew the rods were locked in right because i heard them click in, I could also move the throw out arm when I replaced the cover with the arm 180 degrees opposite of where it should be.
I Used a pair of vice grips to spin the throw out arm and got the cable back in its nook. Clutch feels more or less the way it used to, just a smidge tighter. Will do fine tuning in the morning.

Don't forget you can remove the c-clip from the clutch attachment and move it over a couple of splines until the tention is close enough to adjust from the clutch handle.

And I was thinking to myself today 'man do I need to adjust my clutch!'...lo and behold here is this discussion. Thanks Rick!

I had to basically let out the handle all the way before the clutch would catch, now it works just like it should.

OnTheStorm wrote:

On the oil level window note. I have 2.6 quarts in, just as recommended, and I was watching the window as i put in the final .6 quarts. I still have not seen a bubble, or any indication that it is filling up. Any suggestions to fix this problem?

If the bike is on the sidestand you won't see any oil.

Put it on the centerstand (or hold it vertical for 5 minutes if you don't have a centerstand) then check.

If ... :
You clunk shifting from Neutral into first.
Have the Bike "Pulling" on you when the Lever is pulled, ... the famous "Red Light Creep".
Have to fight with the Bike to get it into Neutral.
Can't get into Neutral to move the Bike.

Take 45-Minutes and do a Complete Clutch adjustment.

You will be happy you did.

Perhaps an obvious question, but if the clutch is adjusted properly but starts slipping around 6500+, is it time for a new clutch?

When you know the Clutch ISN'T Tight. And, it starts slipping "Under Load" ... You have probably used-up all the fun that that Clutch had to deliver.

Don't let it slip.

Don't "Burn-up" the Steel Driven Plates.
You might be able to replace just the FRICTION Plates.

But, if you Scorch or Blue-burn the DRIVERS you can't leave them in there. You'll have a Clutch that GRABS or doesn't take-up smoothly because the DRIVERS are Burned, Warped or worse.

Be honest with the job.
Replace any blued DRIVEN Plates when you replace all the FRICTION Plates and all the Fun and Performance will return.

New clutch cable and adjust per Rick's guide done this past weekend. Can't believe I didn't do it sooner. Easy as pie.