Hey everyone, I'm near the end of my build and the last thing I have to do is wire up the lights. I replaced the front blinkers and I'm wanting to replace the rear lights with just two dual filament blinkers and have them act as tail lights, brake lights and blinkers via trailer harness. I have ordered these lights for both the front and rear. I'm trying to use this trailer harness. I have it all wired up how i think is correct and the tail lights work, the brake lights work, the blinkers work, but when the blinkers are blinking and I try hitting the brakes the blinker that is not blinking gets brighter like it should, but the one thats supposed to be blinking stops blinking and only keeps the dim filament lit. What gives? I have read about electronic flashers, but I thought those were only needed for LED lights? I would appreciate any help so that I could get on the road and riding. Thanks.

i have blinkers similar to the ones you ordered. they're not LED, but they're not strong enough to trip the mechanical flasher. get an electronic flasher unit, run about $8 from pepboys. should fix you right up.

On the front blinkers I wired both filaments to the power wire so they draw enough juice to blink. The issue isn't that they don't blink, its that when one side is blinking and I hit the brakes, it stops blinking and stays dim on the rear, and the front stays lit and doesn't blink. The side not blinking gets brighter with the brake as it should.

Visit:

www.signaldynamics.com/

This Company makes a Module that makes wiring your Rear Turn Signals to Come-on with the Brake Light ... AND STILL ... retain its function as a Signal Light when the Directional Switch is used.

They also make a MODULE that will allow you to retain the Auto-canceling feature and run LED' Signals without individual loads installed on each signal.

RickCoMatic wrote:

Visit: www.signaldynamics.com/ This Company makes a Module that makes wiring your Rear Turn Signals to Come-on with the Brake Light ... AND STILL ... retain its function as a Signal Light when the Directional Switch is used. They also make a MODULE that will allow you to retain the Auto-canceling feature and run LED' Signals without individual loads installed on each signal.

So I would need the Tri-Star™ XP Turn Signal to Brake Conversion with Running Lights for $59.95 correct?? And since I don't have LED lights I wouldn't need the dual-load equalizer?

Is that my only option? Will getting an electronic flasher not solve my problem? I don't need the auto-cancel feature. Would I just need a 12v 2 prong electronic flasher?

I saw in the link to Drag Specialties that these are marker lights, so do the rear lights have 2 wires or 3 wires. Front blinkers have 3 wires because the lamp stays lit while key is on, blinks when blinker is turned on and last wire is ground. Rear blinkers have 2 wires, 1 for ground and 1 for blinker,so you will have to use a 3 wire on the rear if you want them to do it all.

Orange-n-Black wrote:

I saw in the link to Drag Specialties that these are marker lights, so do the rear lights have 2 wires or 3 wires. Front blinkers have 3 wires because the lamp stays lit while key is on, blinks when blinker is turned on and last wire is ground. Rear blinkers have 2 wires, 1 for ground and 1 for blinker,so you will have to use a 3 wire on the rear if you want them to do it all.

Eventhough the pic in the link only shows 2 wires there should be 3, since they are dual fillament, unless the ground is the stem/stud but then 1 wire prolly wouldn't be colored black. They are supposed to be wired up as driving lights same as in the front.


Instead of spending the $60 on the fancy converter I would first see if an $8 elec. flasher would do the trick, since you don't care that much about the auto canceller.
On another note: Not sure if I would want my tail lights to be only 8W?
0.02

The Trailer Hitch Harness gets you close. But, the Turn Signals won't Flash when the Brake is applied.

When you decide that you are the guy who will make it work; you'll look at what you got and start adding stuff.
A relay. Another flasher. Two diodes. Splices.

All of the Sales people at Radio Shack call you, "The Dude".

You're the Dude.
So that's what they call you. You know, that or, uh, His Dudeness, or uh, Duder, or El Duderino if you're not into the whole brevity thing.
Still; no cigar.

Eventually, you reach Critical Mass and scream a litany of curses.
You reach into your back pocket and bring-out the Dikes.
The floor of the garage at the rear of your Bike looks like a Hair Salon on the day before the Big Wedding.

Or you can buy the Module.

Lol Rick
But why doesn't it work
They are supposed to though, that's the whole point of those things.
So the solution to make them work isn't (/shouldn't be) necessarily to throw them out and buy something more expensive.
I for one really enjoy only working 3 days a week and rather spend the "extra" time to figure it out than to work more to buy something more expensive.

I'm not sure.
I'd guess the answer is in the Turn Signal Circuitry.

I'd be willing to give it another shot, too.
IF ... (<--- That's my Big if! )
If I had a Color Coded Wiring Diagram that looked like a Wiring Diagram instead of a useless, miniature Black and White chart with lettered color codes translating to a Color Code Legend that includes choices like: Brown and Chocolate !!!

Orange-n-Black wrote:

I saw in the link to Drag Specialties that these are marker lights, so do the rear lights have 2 wires or 3 wires. Front blinkers have 3 wires because the lamp stays lit while key is on, blinks when blinker is turned on and last wire is ground. Rear blinkers have 2 wires, 1 for ground and 1 for blinker,so you will have to use a 3 wire on the rear if you want them to do it all.

The front blinkers on my bike only has one power wire and it grounds through the housing. They aren't on unless the blinker is on.

The lights I bought have two wires (one for each filament) and they ground through the housing as well.

RickCoMatic wrote:

Or you can buy the Module.

So if i buy the module that I asked about above, everything will work like its supposed to and I won't have to buy anything else? No electronic flasher or diodes or anything else? I can just wire it in and be done?

Here's what it SAYS it does ...

The Tri-Star XP module converts the rear turn signal lights to function as brake and turn signal lights...and now has Running Light Capabilities!

((This is what screwed me all up when I tries the Trailer Hitch Harness. I couldn't get >>Running Lights<<))

When the brakes are applied, the turn signal lights illuminate.
(( I got this far with the Trailer Hitch Harness)).

If a turn signal is applied, it has priority over the brake light function on the side that is selected.
(( Impossible with Trailer Hitch Harness ))

If the turn signal is canceled and the brakes are still applied, the brake light function of the turn signal lights illuminate steady on.
(( No way I could make this happen!))

Call-up the joint.
Talk to the guy and tell him what you got and want.
Ask for a "Money-Back" Guarantee.
Save the receipt.
Give it a shot.

Okay Rick, thanks for the info. I just thought people had made the harness work before because there are SO many threads on here with people who have them.

You can get a similar converter box at most auto places. It converts the discrete 3-function (running, brake, turn signal) light sources typically found in modern cars/trucks to the single dual-filament bulb (I couldn't see if the NAPA harness already had it). I have one on my Toyota for my utility trailer and it works fine.
EDIT - I saw the NAPA harness - looks similar to the one I have. That should work OK if wired correctly; the low-wattage filaments will be your "running" lights and the high-wattage filaments will be your brake/turn signals.
EDIT #2 - in re-reading the OP the problem may still be in the OEM flasher module; the resistance it is sensing through the converter (with brake applied) might not be adequate. As previously suggested you could try an electronic flasher module in place of the OEM.

I called the people at Signal Dynamics and he said that it wouldn't work because you need a dedicated brake light for everything to work. He said it wires into the brake light wiring and then sends a signal to the turn signals to illuminate for tail lights and brake lights. I think he misunderstood me and I told him the bike has the wiring for a dedicated brake light, but I just wanted to remove that light. He said in theory it should work, so I dunno... I went ahead and ordered it and we shall see. In the meantime I'm going to try a cheap electronic flasher.

EDIT-- just as info. I ordered the Tristar Turn Signal to Brake Light Conversion NOT the one including the running lights. He said I didnt need it and I could wire my running lights directly to my dim filament. Saved me $5