XJ650RJ Seca Build

Thanks I’ll have to double check where I got the info to buy the plugs as you are correct that I do have the BP8ES.
I last tested the compression about a month ago.
#1 = 150
#2 = 140
#3 = 140
#4 = 150

No signs of anything coming out of the exhaust.

 

Picked up a set of correct NGK plugs on my lunch break. I’ll check the gaps and install tonight after work.

 

So the color tune was making me pull my hair out. I'm having similar results to some other people on this site, hook it up to a warm engine, turn the air/fuel mixture screw all the way to 1 side and then all the way to the other, and no change in the color of the flame... So I'll have to come back to that later on.

After hooking up the correct spark plugs (*facepalm*) and some "attempts" to adjust the air/fuel mixture the bike preforms a little better. It has a quicker feel on the throttle. Not quite as good as it should be, and the idle is still slower to fall than it should be. I guess I'll just keep at tinkering each day until I feel i'm starting to make it worse.

Since I can't get the color tune to work, I plan on trying to put some miles on the new plugs so I can read the plugs the old-school way.

 

After a morning of research and looking at old notes, I’m suspecting that I might have a float level issue which may be contributing to my lean mixture. Since my bike is lowered in the front due to the front end, I’m suspecting that I need to retest my wet float levels while the carbs are on the bike, vs on the bench. I’ll do 2 versions for the test,
1. On center stand
2. Off center stand on 2 wheels.

Hopefully this will allow me to rule out that as an issue, or lead me to pull the carbs yet again.

 

After puling the carbs off the bike again and setting them on my carb rig and 7 rounds of float level testing, I have successfully gotten 1 carb in spec. Somehow no matter how I adjust the tang, up, or down the float levels stay the same on the other 3 carbs, which is too low. i'm measuring 7mm vs. the 3mm that needs to be in spec. I'm at a loss.

I know the PO replaced the float needles with an unknown set. I'm guess that these were a cheap eBay set. Only thing I can think of is to replace them with a set from Chacal to confirm that these are intact good.

-___-

 

Sounds like a solid plan there. If the needles are too long, you'll have a hard time if at all getting the level higher. You'll sleep better too knowing what's in there.

 

Waiting for my order from chacal to come in

 

Chacal to the rescue. Ordered my new needles on Friday night and got them delivered Sunday. So installed them today. Only took 1 round of adjustments to get all 4 float levels perfectly in spec. Now the tuning process should be a little easier this time around.

 

So progress is continuing to be made. After a minor idle adjustment on the carb, the bike starts right up and holds and idle much stronger than it did before. Which makes sense with now having the correct fuel level in the carbs. The throttle response has improved as well.

However, it’s still a little slow to return to idle after letting off the throttle. And after 10 minutes, the idle slowly starts to increase. So I guess I need to trace down an air leak somewhere.

I’ve tried the propane truck before with no success, and I’m hesitant to spray carb cleaner around the freshly painted engine -____- as well as my colortune is still showing the same color flame, regardless of how I change the air/fuel mixture.

 

So, after some work on the bike, I thought that the source of my air leak was due to a gap in the airbox lid. However i have been informed that this is not the case. So after continuing to spray carb cleaner all around the carbs (from the intake boots to the airbag boots) i'm unable to cause an rpm change (either up, or down). So i'm at a loss of what to do next to get the bike working.

For the first few minutes of a ride, the bike feels great. It pulls super strong, the only issue is that lack of engine braking due to a slow fall of the rpms back to idle. after a few minutes on the bike, the bike wants to idle up at around 2-3K. I can sometimes use the clutch to pull the rpms back down to around 1k. but then it will slowly start moving back up.

 

In my experience this can be cured tweaking the mixture screws richer. You said this helped a bit a few posts back. Go another 1/4 turn and resynch.

 

wd-40 can be used to test for air leaks.
when you color tune again try adding a littler choke to see if that changes the color helps to confirm air leaks.

and on another unrelated issue on your tci the connector from the pickups do you have 1 or 2 black wires from the pickup harness to tci ( wiring diagram shows 2 but I only have one)? I just want to confirm sub harness to be sure the pickups are correct to the (my) 650rj

 

Thanks

I’ll have to try all the fluids next time. I used carb spray and electrical cleaner and propane and got no results from the test. I’ll try wd40 and see what happens. I haven’t played with the choke at all. Even when starting I don’t use it. (It’s a constant 70-80 in San Diego)

Regarding the connections on my harness, I believe there is only the 1 black wire. I double checked my wiring diagram (page 4) and only noted 1. But I’ll take another look and confirm.

 

just checked my fsm and it confirms 1 wire as you stated . I thought I lost the manual on my computer

 

Have you performed a vacuum synch on the engine yet?

 

Yes I have. For some reason my carbtune is actuating strange to where I’m not getting a proper reading. (After putting in the resisters) turning it upside does help a little. I’m goimg to try to synch again, and then try to get ahold of another gauge, and reset the idle mixture screws and keep a log of every action being taken on the bike. This will help me keep track of exactly what’s been done.

 

If you are using the Carbtune Pro "sliding rod" synch gauge, the resistors should not be necessary.

 

So many conflicting statements on this site. Haha I will try without the resistors and compare the results. Thanks for the feedback.

 

this sounds to me like you're only running on 3 cylinders until it gets fully warmed up. next time you start it from cold, check that the pipes get hot evenly.
were you adjusting the idle after a good long ride?

 

I had that issue, but it’s been resolved. However I will double check tomorrow evening when I work on the bike to make sure all 4 are still warming up together.
Gotta rule out the simple stuff.

I’ve also ordered new fuel and vacuum lines from chacal with new clamps to help rule those out as any causes of my issue.