No Idea

Hey guys. Took carbs back off taking to get float hights re checked.
So I did a clunk test again and carb 3 and 4 diaphragm arnt seated properly. And drop to fast.
Hope that's where the problem lies.

 

Not possible.............

 

The clunk test is performed with the top-hats off. If you did it that way, then it's 1 and 2 that are dropping too slowly. Lightly polish the bores (not the slides) with a scotchbrite pad.

If you performed the test with the top hats on, then inspect the #2 and #3 diaphrams for pinholes and tears.

 

Still wasn't sealed properly with the hat on.

 

Clunk test with hats off is a pass

 

No pin holes in diaprams.
If it still continues to be shit it cannot be the carbs

 

did you put the tab in proper location I assume you have a tab on diaphram being an x you have mikuni carbs correct?

ohm out the ignition system and replace sparkplugs

 

Everything is in order the way its supposed to be. The floats are spot on..Its been bench synced . Its been run synced .
The carbs are clean as a whistle . there's no holes in diaphragms. Its passed all tests. I even just pulled everything apart to recheck.
Valves are in spec. Timing is on the dot.
Checked primary and secondary coils.
Checked gas cap, Checked pickup.
Checked battery. Checked all connections for corrosion . checked for vacuum leaks all around and there is none .
What's left? CDI or whatever its called for these bikes.?
And will be adding new plugs.

 

what happens if you are not sitting?

check the charging system output

 

So when the carbs were rebuilt, every rubber piece was replaced? The float valve needle oring and the throttle shaft seals?

 

Yes

 

Deluxe carb kit from chacle

 

This one's way out there... but running out of options.

Stuck rear brake? Does it roll OK in neutral?

And in the "It starts hard" department... when you start it cold, feel the first elbow in all exhaust headers and see which ones get warm first and which stay cold. When I was doing my floats they would seem fine on the bench, then on the bike I could tell which ones were out of adjustment that way....

 

The guts to my caps. Wires are in spec.
Didn't test caps yet. id say there original.

 

Can I swap my plug caps to ngk resistor caps.

 

you can use a combo of resistor plugs and caps to get where you need to be.

xj4ever has the caps and a good write up on it in his catalog.

in this thread you will find your specd
The Ultimate Relay, Switch, Sensor, and Diodes Guide

Spark plug caps:
15K +/- 20% = 12,000 to 18,000 ohms per cap acceptable range

Spark plugs:
5K ohms per plug

 

Well thanks for all the input guys. Everything I do or try get me no where. And I'm not sending it to mechanic cause god know how much that'll cost.
I appreciate all them help. Bikes gonna be a dust collector now.
I'm out.

 

Joe 34,

Just read your thread, wow you are so close and persistent! If I were you I would step away from the bike for a bit. Get into one of your other bobbies for a bit and them come back to the bike. Working on a bike when you are frustrated will cause problems and is just not fun. Main reason most of us have the bikes if for fun of wrenching and riding, keep it that way.

Looks like you have done everything right and are so close to getting the bike running the way you want to. When you are reading to get back to the bike and feel good about walking up to her without throwing something at it, try the 1/4 turn of the mixture screws. Turn them in 1/4 and go for a ride, doing this should cause a different feeling in the RPM range and you can adjust by that feeling.

The plugs do look like you are running a bit rich, so if there are no air leaks, carbs went to Church and all "O" rings replaced, sysn done and or colortuned, you have to be very close.

Tell you what, if you want to see some progress on the bike but not mess with the fuel system, take the time to go through all the electrical connections. Unhook the batter first and then start to take all the connectors apart one at a time, clean them, check for cracking and or broken wires and then add a little dielectric grease to them. This might give you a little sense of accomplishment working on the bike and get you ready to look at that RPM and fuel issues again.

Bottom line, keep with it, you are doing great and have come so far.

 

Does that mean your measuring the float heights? Dry set... Have you done a wet set on the fuel levels?

 

Done all that