85 XJ700 turns but won't start

@Nuch nailed it, slow, organized, fun.
It is a great opportunity to hide in the 'man cave', savor the moment and make it last.

 

@Stumplifter I would like to pull the head to replace the gasket, and the valve cover as well in hopes to eliminate what is a very minimal oil leak.

@Nuch I like the workspace and will most definitely use your method of cardboard, pictures and PVC rack, as well as some refreshing beverages along the way, gotta stay hydrated?... right.

Ive just messaged Chacal and will be awaiting a response, looking forward to getting my hands dirty on this one, it should be an entertaining project.
Once I have everything in hand Ill be getting started, Ill be sure to post some pictures and update along the way.

 

If you have a work bench with a vice there's no need to make a carb rack.
If you don't have a work bench with a vice, get one.

 

Wouldn't be a work space without the two, would it?

Also, thanks to @hogfiddles @Nuch @Stumplifter @Timbox and @tabaka45 for the guidance, your much appreciated. Im sure I might have a question or two along the way as well.

 

Agreed. And I do have both, but I found the home made carb stand gave me the easy ability to do both a "side to side" leveling adjustment, as well as a "front to back." No need to glue the pieces together as they should fit together snug enough to hold solid with the additional ability to tweak the levels of the rack while clamped into the stand.

...plus its cool to say you built a carb stand.

...though the wife didn't appreciate it (as much as I did) as a centerpiece on the dining room table.

 

Some people just don't appreciate fine art

 

Is it possible that gas could leak into my oil due to a faulty petcock? The PO explained that the inline petcock that had been installed after the factory was of no use essentially and just a fail safe. He stated that he would always shut it off when not in use, but that it didn't make a difference if he did or not. Or is there other common reasons for this?

 

Either that, you forgot your primer, or your the cleanest plumber I can say I've talked to.. never liked dealing with those fumes much myself. You get a much cleaner look without the glue anyways, perfect for a centerpiece.

 

Your factory XJ petcock should be kept in the ON position. A properly functioning petcock works on vacuum created by any one of your 4 cylinders (while they are moving of course). Let's say it in your case it is #2. Engine ON... Petcock moves fuel, Engine OFF... Petcock stops fuel. Again, the position of petcock lever, knob, doo hickey, etc... should be left in the ON position.

If the engine is running, the diaphragm in the petcock gets the vacuum (suction) and allows fuel to flow from the tank, into the fuel line where it then gets distributed to your 4 carb bowls.

To answer your question, YES it is possible for the petcock for fail and allow fuel to pass by when the engine is not running... Bingo... Fuel in your oil...

HOWEVER...

If you're getting fuel in your oil via a petcock leak, you also are looking at a potential fuel needle valve leak in one or more of your carbs. Maybe there's some crud in there that is holding the needle slightly away from the seat... Maybe a float is hung up...

An inline shutoff can't hurt... but not necessary if your other components are in order.

 

Well that must be the case, Im sure of it. I had my suspicions about the in-line petcock and surely they are true as I went ahead and left it open to see, looks like Ill be draining the oil/fuel mixture and ordering a new petcock as well. The fuel needle valves (or possible float) will be addressed as well with the carb work. Thanks Nuch.

 

So unfortunate that all of Fitz photo logs are no longer seeing the light of our computer screens.

 

He wrote some of our best how-to guides. Ricomatic is another. I believe that the moderators are looking into fixes for this situation. It's happening all across the net thanks to Photobucket and their strong arm tactics.

 

Pulled the back tire yesterday, here are the photos with some questions attached. Any observations however seemingly irrelevant are welcomed.



Is a terrible smell and brownish sludge when pulling the axle a bad sign?


Could this bearing be bad? The wheel spins freely, makes a very faint grinding noise but no screeching, could just be the brakes possibly?
Surface looks clean, free of grooves.


How do these look? Will likely clean out the dust. Should I replace the pads, also I can upload another picture of pads.


Look good?


This looks new, observations?

Thanks ahead, learning a lot. Appreciate it guys.

 

Not too sure what is a bad smell, as there are all kinds of smells with bikes, brake and engines. That black stuff just looks like heavy grease and that is a good thing, unless it smells like it is burnt. From the pics I could not see any excess ware one any of the parts, but that is just me, someone else might see a issue. They do make clear or blue grease if you want to change that when you put her back together, just seems to look cleaner IMHO.

Take your finger and turn the bearings and see if you feel any wear or nochting feeling when they turn. Some consistent notching feeling might be there but as long as it is consistent as you turn them they should be good.

 

Dorne more experienced guys will comment, but used gear oil smells pretty bad and it looks like the final drive could be leaking in there. That hub looks remarkably clean though.

 

Gear oil is a foul smell, I recently replaced an axle seal on my 07 Tacoma so I am familiar with the smell, I'm sure that's what I was smelling. Didn't think I would get such a strong whiff though.

Could you explain a little more about the potential final drive leak?

I wiped off the lip of the hub, which only had a thin layer of grime on it, came right off even with that said.. looks clean.

 

Check this out:
http://www.yamahapartsnation.com/oemparts/a/yam/500426adf8700209bc7886a8/drive-shaft
My thought would be part #6 it's at fault, but wait for confirmation on that.