And then things got worse...

Back at it again...

 

This pipe thingy really simplifies discovering you have a bad fuel rail o ring...the fuel t free spins now sso i have to break the rack apart.



It never ends does it?

 

Since the rack you show is a Mikuni rack---

You'll find that the Fuel "T" doesn't have o-rings on it (unless it's already been replaced with an aftermarket one already)..... it's a metal "T with a rubberized forms coating that has bumps to be the seals. These wear/ compress over the years and lose their effectiveness. i HIGHLY recommend you get the aftermarket replacement from Len. It will come with the o-rings for it......
So since you're breaking it, then do ALL the o-rings, AND the throttle shaft seals......otherwise, you'll be taking it apart AGAIN soon.....

 

This thing was terrible...


This thing was worse



I Anticipated the fuel t beingmangled and ordered a brass replacement witho rings from a local bike restorer... However I don't have the funds to buy all 8 throttle seals... Got hit with medical bills and I am strapped for cash.

The way it's looking I may not get to ride this season...and i hate it.

 

There are some who use a stack of o-rings.......I don't, but I have the instructions somewhere---I'll see if I can find it

 

Found it----sent to your inbox

 

Appreciate all the info guys....might get it running after all.

 

This thing is about to drive me up a wall.

Got the carbs wet set(Finally), Got ALL of the seals and passages cleaned with flex wire, nice new fuel filter, fresh gas...
Fired it up and....it started with help from mr enrichment switch.

Now i have a different problem, Went and hooked up the carb sync to do an initial balance so i could get it to idle...
Starts, revs to 3k rpm and STAYS there. when cold, when warm....just stays, If I rev it to about 5k it will idle down to about 2K.

I thought i found the issue due to improperly sized vacuum hose to the vacuum petcock...Helped alot not having a 1/4 inch hole in the air boot

Still does the high idle, this is with no adjustment on the sync screws at all and a SMALL adjustment of the idle trimmer on the base of the carbs.

Now I have video




Cylinder 2 is still showing a null vacuum issue unless i rev it, I haven't done anything more than a cursory glance at the intake boots and they SEEM fine, no cracking I can see.

Could this just be due to a terribly bad adjustment on the carb?
I really really would like to not have to pull the carbs AGAIN :\

 

did you bench sync the carbs?

check your throttle cable make sure the end of cable at carbs is properly seated then check to see if you have any slack in the throttle cable.
there is an adjustment at the throttle cable. also check your routing of the cable.
does it rpm hang only when the sync tool is installed?

do you have the cable extender installed it is about 3 inches long the throttle cable does not hook directly to the carbs.

throttle cable lubed?

 

what is your initial setting of the mixture screws? should start with 2-1/2 turns out

 

Mix screw is 2-1/2 turns out.

Throttle cable moves freely and snaps back freely.

Cable extender is installed and routed correctly.

Did the bench sync before i rebuilt carb...

Looks like I'm pulling out the carb again...
Gonna order new intake boots... Might as well.

 

RUNNING synch.

 

my thoughts to. Xed have you actually moved the synch screws with your manometer connected and the bike running?

 

I have, it does change vacuum when i do this...also changes idle(as it should) however, still null on cylinder 2.

I'm gonna pull it off and redo the bench sync just to make sure.

Do i absolutely have to have yics blocked to do this?

 

I don't think many people bother ..

 

Have you ever done a compression check on the engine?

 

I did when i went to buy the bike, couldn't tell you what the values were though. All within 10% of each other.

 

At the risk of stating the obvious, did you check that the vacuum adapter on no 2 air boot is open?
If it would be blocked you would get normal air flow to the cylinders, but no measurement on your gage.

 

Initially that was causing the cold cylinder, but once i hook it into the vac guage then it shouldn't be an issue as it seals it back up.

I'm in the process of moving my garage around to make space for a machinists lathe so I haven't had a chance to work on the bike since my last post...I'm off tomorrow though so I'll be pulling the carbs off and rechecking the bench sync...I may not have done that carb when i had it on the bench.

However even when i first got the bike it was doing the same thing, I tested the coils and thought it to be a bad coil(way off mark using a scope...sometimes having access to fancy equipment is nice), but apparently there was more to it than that.

Can anyone tell me what the cylinder compression is supposed to be?
From what i found it should be at a minimum of 100 and a maximum of 135, with 121 being the average mean reading?


This thing has gained my mechanical ire...The last thing this happened to was a ducati 750ss ...It was good for the ducati but bad for the wallet

 

don't pull the carbs again, swap 1 and 2 hoses and see if your gauge works. put the hoses back then turn 1/2 sync screw, as 1 comes down 2 will go up.
turn the idle up with the idle knob just a bit, continue with the sync and turn the idle down as necessary