Changing brake pads.

Do I have to push the piston back in caliper when I replace my pads?
Do I open my Master cylinder while I do this?
My manual didn't say anything about it. It just said to pull out the retaining pin and pinch the coil spring to replace the pads didnt mention anything else about the piston or the master cylinder.

 

i JUST did a pad replacement a couple days ago. I recommend you use a large c-clamp to push the caliper piston into the bore. Do it slowly, you'll feel it slowly go in. If you have to use excessive force, then you may wish to consider doing a caliper overhaul. Otherwise, if it moves in with "snug" turns of the screw you're good to go.

As you take the old pads out, you'll probably find that one is worn down more than the other. That's ok.

When you put the pads in, keep in mind that there is a metal clip inside the groove on the left fork. You may have to work the pad tongue into that... it can get a little snug. the pad toward the right side of the tire just hangs/flops until you get it set just right. They will slightly rock back and forth on the back edge of the pad since the two lands there are not perfectly flat. It can get frustrating if you don't take your time. don't rush or force things and you'll see what to do.

Once the pads are in, it is kind of a challenge to keep them open far enough to get the rotor to slide up in. while you're trying to finesse that info place, be sure that the little spacer for the right side of the axle doesn't fall out. AND, while you're doing that, make sure that the speedo gear doesn't fall out. It's a dance, but you'll get if you take your time.

Last thing to mention is the speedo gear...

disconnect the gear via the little 10mm bolt on the bottom of it, pull the 10mm bolt holding the wire retainer, and then disconnect the cable and pull it out of the way. When you put the gear on the rim, MAKE SURE TO LINE UP THE TWO TEETH THAT ARE IN THE RIM WITH THE TWO NOTCHES IN THE SPEEDO GEAR. If you don't do that, you'll probably end up bending the tabs back and then the speedo won't work. If you DO bend the tabs, it's not the end of the world....but you will have to pull the seal out of the rim, pull the big spacer/washer then pull the two-tab ring, flatten it back out, bend the tabs back up, reinstall things, and then remember that you should have ordered a new seal. After the seal arrives in a few days, you can install it and finish installing the rim. Make sure that the tab on the fork fits into the notch on the outside of the speedo gear.

Then hook up the speedo cable, the 10mm bolt, the wire retainer w/ it's 10mm bolt. Tighten everything back together, double check everything, and you should be good to almost go.

DON'T FORGET TO PUMP UP THE FRONT BRAKE LEVER BEFORE YOU GO ANYWHERE. OTHERWISE, you'll be in for a surprise when you first grab the lever and there's nothing there. Pump it up.

Job well done. If you have trouble or questions, we're here.

Dave Fox

 

Don't open the Master Cylinder.
Crack Open a Brake Bleeder.

With the Bleeder OPEN it should be easy to PRY the Caliper Piston back into the Caliper.
(Protect the Brake Rotor from being scratched with Cardboard or a Piece of Vinyl Siding.

A Craftsman Ratchet and a 6-Inch Extension will fit between the Caliper Piston and the protected Brake Rotor.
Lever the Extension and the Ratchet will roll-over and slowly press the Caliper Piston right back into the Caliper.

Close the Bleeder after you change the brakes.
Pump up pressure.
Add Fluid to Reservoir if necessary.

 

I find it a lot easier to do the brakes with the front wheel out of the way.

Dave

 

Your personal preference in exchanging Brake Pads is recognized; however, ... you should preface your procedure as doing far more work than is necessary to Replace Brake Pads.

There is an element of CONVENIENCE designed into Replacing Brake Pads.

Many Models would require that the Caliper get loosened, removed and held out of the way to allow the Front Wheel to be Removed. A totally unnecessary amount of additional work to a routine Brake Pad Renewal.

But, thankfully ... the Engineers designed most of the Calipers to allow the Brake Pads to be routinely removed and installed without UN-NECESSARILY Removing the Front Wheel.

 

ok, I'll preface my procedure as doing far more work than is necessary to Replace Brake Pads.

I shall also preface the preface by saying first, that I did that the other day when I brought my rim back from the shop where I had a brand new sneaker put on. So I will preface that by first, that that was a whole lot less work for me. I will preface that by saying that the last time I had to but pad on this bike was close to 30,000 mi ago. So I may have been a little foggy on just how I did it 10 years ago. I will preface that by saying that doing it this way I was able to check how the piston felt.

I prefer the use of a clamp to push the piston into the bore. I'll preface that by saying that I don't want to risk nicking, gouging, or bending the rotor by prying anywhere near it since I just got done replacing a rotor on a vl1500.

I will preface this by saying that while I had the wheel off, I was able to check the condition of the bearings, too. I'll preface that by saying if you wish to replace just the pads, it's a quick and easy job, but if you wish to check a whole big batch of things, all in the name of safety, preventive maintenance, and preservation, do it when you have the front wheel off for something.

I'll preface that by saying if you do it a few times you can have the wheel off, check things, replace pads, and have it all back on in short order.

I know the rear wheels are not as difficult, but some people seem to think they are impossible, too. I pulled three different ones off, and installed all three, and was off riding within an hour this afternoon. The written procedure looks a whole lot longer than it really takes. the first time can be time-consuming, but after doing it a few times it gets easy.

FWIW and YMMV

dave fox

 

With a Bleeder OPEN, ...
And the Rotor PROTECTED with a proper Anti-chafing surface ...

The only thing to worry about is where the Brake Fluid is going to squirt.
I forgot to mention ...

Placing a shop rag over the Bleeder will eliminate the need to wipe-up the Brake Fluid that will squirt-out of the Bleeder when the Piston is moved-back into place.

 

Or just hook up your bleeder hose since it's a good opportunity to bleed the brakes anyway.

 

It is a good idea to bleed the brakes and replace the break fluid every time you replace the pads.
Like bigfitz says "just hook up a bleeder hose."

 

Yeah looks like im just going to take the opportunity to bleed the system while im at it. Whats the best procedure to bleed the brakes?
Just pump the lever and add new brake fluid?
im so glad I asked these questions before my brakes came in.
As of now I still havent recieved them so all tips are welcome.

 

Have a hose hooked up to your bleed screw and submerged in 1/2" of brake fluid in the bottom of your bleeder jar of choice.

Pump the lever to build up pressure, then hold it. Open the bleed screw and the lever will relax toward the bar. Close bleed screw before the lever hits bottom.

Repeat.

Pump up the lever (gently) between "bleed" cycles, especially with the M/C open.

Don't let the M/C run out of fluid and suck air or you will have to start over.

Do this until the fluid coming out is clean and bubble-free. If you get persistent bubbles, pull the bleed screw all the way out and throw a couple wraps of teflon tape on it, being careful not to block the bleed hole.

 

Thank you. Thats all this is great info.
I just got my pads in the mail.
They look kinda weird though the pad is at an angle like its already worn on one side or something. Is this what a normal pad looks like?


The add said they would fit my bike but then again I did get them on ebay.

 

them don't look right to me

 

That's how the XJ650 Maxim pads look. The caliper doesn't float on pins, it rotates on a pivot. So, the pads are angled. As they wear the caliper rotates and they flatten out.

The same type of caliper was used on some of the XSs.

That caliper is just about the easiest in the world to do. If you look you will see a pin at the bottom of the caliper. Midway on that pin is a spring with a couple ears you squeeze together. When the spring is squeezed the pin will pull out. At that point the pads should drop right out.

Before you pull the pads push the piston back. If the caliper is in good condition you shouldn't need any tools - especially with the bleed screw open. You should be able to grab hold of the caliper and twist it on the pivot (clockwise looking down) to push the piston back in.

 

Chamfer those new Pads.

The Edges of the Pads are sharp.
If you put them on like that they are likely to squeal.

If you "Round-Off" the sharp edges so they don't have the sharp right-angles ... they're less likely to squeal.

 

They look fine to me. Just stick' em in. You may wish to bevel the edges as that can help to avoid brake squeal, however, I will preface that by saying I have never done that and have never had brakes squeal. It's just an extra step that's going to take extra time. Just stick'em in. If you find they do start to squeal, then you can pull them back out and do it then, since it is such an easy, quick process to remove/install just the pads.

Dave Fox

 

Chamfering Brake Pads is not just an extra step that going to take a lot of time.

In truth, it takes no time at all.
Doing the chamfering by hand will take 10-Minutes; tops.
Using a grinder or a sander will take you about two-minutes flat.

Chamfering will help prevent squeal.

The practice is a widely known fact throughout the industry.
Some New Brake Pads come right out of the box having been Chamfered during the manufacturing process.

The design of the pads also influences their ability to suppress noise.

If the leading edge of the pads has a sharp edge, it increases the tendency to grab and bounce more than if the leading edge is chamfered.

That's why most premium grade brake pads have chamfered edges. The pads may also have a slot down the middle to increase flexibility, cooling and venting. Some pads also have integrally molded shims and a multi-layer construction to reduce noise.

I don't recommend that the Pads get Chamfered as a waste of time. I recommend that New Brake Pads be chamfered as a Time Saving Procedure.

So, chamfer them when they are NEW, ... and you won't have to pull them off and chamfer them, later, when they start making a racket you'd rather not hear. **

(**Adapted from an article written by Larry Carley for Brake & Front End Maintenance.)

 

Thank's Rick I will do that. I noticed that the pads I have now are actually in really good condition. The angle that these pads have made me think my pads were worn. I plan to restore my front brakes and caliper anyway so that is great info to have. Thanks again guys.

 

Pay attention to the Parts on which the Caliper and the Brake Pads "Float" -or- "Pivot".

Those parts need to be cleaned to bare metal, shined with 400 or 800 Finishing Paper and lubed with a Synthetic waterproof grease.

Pins:
Chuck them in a Drill. Spin. Sand while rotating at high speed.

Others:
Cut narrow strips of Sand Paper. "Shoeshine" the part.

 

I just changed the pads on my seca RJ. I have two questions:
1) The pads are squeezing the rotor constantly now. is there something I missed? I had to replace the entire caliper and I was able to put the new one on around the pads with no problem. It's after I bled the brake lines and pumped the system that they're pinching the rotor and letting the wheel spin with difficulty.

2) There is a screw in each caliper. the shop manual didn't mention how to re-do this at all, so i don't know how far into turn it, or if it has to do with the problem above ^^