high idle when starting with choke

hello fellow xj riders, I`m having a idle choke issue. just so you know what has been replaced from the start of this tread ill give the list of what has been changed or replaced. New Petcock Rebuild kit, New K&L Supply Float Needles and Float Seats with O-rings , New Float Bowl Gaskets, New Mixture Screw O-rings, New Drain Bolt O-rings, New Dyno Jet Kit Part#4106 witch comes with new Main Jets, New Fuel Needles and E-clips with the Adjusting Washers. New Battery, 8 New Valve Shims, now in spec, New Vesrah Top End Rebuild Kit Part # VG-6026, New Piston Circlips, New Choke Cable, New K&N Filters Part # RC-2372, New NGK Iridium IX DR8EIX Spark Plugs, New K&N Clamp On Crankcase Vent Filter. I currently don`t have the exhaust on it, VERY VERY LOUD!!!! Not even the headers. So when I finished the engine rebuild it started up but the number 4 carb was leaking fuel so I replaced it the new floats and seats, no more leaking carbs, but I still have the engine not firing on all four all the time, when I give it throttle it fires all four though,. when I start the bike cold I`ll give it a little choke and it will rev to like 6,000rpms then I have to drop the choke down but then I have to fight with the choke just to keep idle and the idle screw to keep it from revving crazy high on a cold engine, I can tell the bike responds to the jet kit because when I do give it throttle it races to redline, but I cant keep it at a decent idle so I can tune it and dial it in with my colortune and motion pro carb sync tool, my spark gaps are correct my valce are all within spec no leaking carbs the carb boot have no crack at all surprisingly, and all four spark pugs will spark, because I tested them all grounded to the engine check, I know I have a very small valve cover leak but I don't see how that can effect the engine running even at idle, I followed the dyno jet instructions witch say to drill the slide vent holes but there is two on the instructions but only one the mikuni slides, and it said to put the mixture screws at 3 turns out so I did that, doing all these things correctly seems like it should be able to al least get my bike to idle so I can tune it. and I have the stock exhaust so I followed the instructions for the stock exhaust though its not currently on the bike, please guys help me and thanks for reading my very long question.

 

did you install the little washers on the mixture screws?
enrichment circuit e.c. (choke) puts extra fuel in to the carbs to get it started as it warms up the rpm increases.
do your plungers fully seat when e.c. is off?
are you running pods or air box?
did you clean out the pilot circuit and pilot jets?
they control your idle along with mixture screws.
try closing you mixture screws to 2-1/2 turns

you do not mention carb cleaning have you read
IN THE CHURCH OF CLEAN
this is the inside of your carbs
Something New, Something Naked

 

I have completely cleaned the carbs thoroughly aside from separating them. the floats are set parallel to the carb body edge, and the dyno jet instructions said to put the screws at 3 turns out witch is were there at, the choke plungers were taken apart and put together in the same way they came out and they don`t stick at all, btw all the plungers come up at the same time, there`s no difference in one or the other, I checked this when I put the plunger arms back on it so they come up and down at the same distance if that makes cense, all the jets and little holes and nooks and cranies were blown out with carb cleaner and blown out with compressed air, and I looked at each jet and emulsion tube with light to see through it and they were spotless, i know that the floats are seating correctly because when I put the petcock on prime they don`t leak anymore thanks to new float needles and seat, but I saw a video of the shane conley video on youtube and he was checking for the floats to keep a vacumm seal by using a mityvac and putting it on the fuel line and squezzing to see if it hold pressure, and I did this and it does not hold pressure even though I know the float needle and seat seal because I also put the float and seal to my mouth and blew and it holds great, i even got a little lite headed lol.

 

Sometimes carb spray will not be enough to dissolve the dried gas and goo stuck in the carb bodies.
You mentioned you did not split the rack. This means you did not replace the throttle shaft seals. Those little rubber seals after 30 plus years just don't seal anymore which creates a vacuum leak on each one of them. A vacuum leak or those carbs sucking air from around those seals even ever so slightly will cause idle quality issues. I was not a believer untill I broke down and did it. Once I did my first set I was amazed how nice the bike started and ran.
My suggestion is to pull them back off, tear them down completely and soak them in carb dip overnight. Then blow out, poke, every hole and passage with wires until you know for sure each passage is clear. Then assemble with all new seals and bench sync and wet set the floats to proper fuel levels before installing them. When installed have your exhaust and intakes back together and sync it. You can do your fine tuning from there.

 

Floats setting is NOT parallel to body. There's some of your issue. If you haven't synced your bike, there's a lot of the issue, too. If you can keep your bike running, whether rough or not, high idle or not........ Get it running, them bring the idle speed down as far as you can with the idle speed screw. Start syncing, and adjust idle speed as needed. It may take sone work to straighten this one out..... Double check your bench-sync settings, too, and I'd start the mixture screws at slightly more than 2.5 turns. 3 may be a bit too fat

 

GMZ06 Hogfiddles is the guy to listen to about your carbs. dyno jet ain't ridin' an xj
fyi mixture screw setting is just a starting point and will need to be adjusted to tune your bike.

 

everybody keeps saying separate the carbs and I`m just really scared to do it because there`s four of them and not just two carbs, plus I`ve spent over 3,000 dollars so far, but that includes the price of the bike the parts the tools I had to buy accessories and the paperwork to get it legal to be one the road, but I should just do it, I`ll do some searching around to find the seals and whatever else I find that's broken in the process of tearing the carbs apart, hopefully its just the seals but what else should I replace because everything else has been replaced or cleaned thoroughly, I love this website and everybody very helpful, I even bought a set of stainless steel braided brake lines from Len at xjbikes4ever.com and he had it here in two days, he`s a cool guy, he understood what I needed when I messed up on the ordering process and sent me a set of copper washers witch I forgot to order Thanks Len !!!!!!!

 

I offer a carb rebuilding service, start a private conversation with me if you wish

 

Seems to me, that if you've already spent that kind of money… You're doing something drastically wrong

 

I have spent that money on all parts of the bike from the tip of the front tire to the backtire, and from the peak of the mirrors to the bottom of the oilpan, it was not all just in carb work

 

it was used for things like a new helmet, gloves, owners manual, tools ,shop manual, its really long list, even a new control box for the ledglow system, the price I paid for the bike, and all the title and tag paperwork minus the insurance witch was something like $104 for the whole year with liability

 

To put some perspective on your costs: You are still not really spending any money, considering all that you have gotten done overall. I know people who spend $3000 just on riding gear.

Don't lump all of the costs in with what you are spending on parts for the bike . Tools will last you a lifetime and can be used on other projects (I have several handtools that belonged to my grandfather when he was a farmer in the 30's). Riding gear can be used on any bike that you ride, and may very well save your life someday. $104 for a year of liability insurance is a good deal no matter where you live.

 

I know I just thought the total project cost was starting to get me, btw the shaft seals are they part # 36Y-14147-00-00 I was looking on the Yamaha part house website and that's the only part that I believe I`m not familiar with, everything else on the part fische I recognized except the and it says o-ring on the description, is this the correct part and how many would I need to do the carb split, btw k-moe thanks for replying to my post, I have read your threads for months and you have helped me in many ways to get my bike ready for the road!!!

 

Start a conversation with Chacal. He has all of the correct parts, and more than all of the customer service. What dealer will help you solve a problem over the phone after midnight?

 

If you're including everything that's different...... I thought you meant just on the bike---- I hadn't read your long post thoroughly enough .... Lol

 

One thing to check that might not have been mentioned. Pull the vacuum line off of the petcock and look for signs of gas leaking past the vacuum valve diaphram. If there is a pinhole leak there it can cause a hanging or creeping idle.

 

I've always found it difficult to read a long text without any separation between the sentences and stay focused til the end.