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I have the manual, now what?

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Aaron B, Aug 14, 2017.

  1. Aaron B

    Aaron B New Member

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    Okay, so I posted last week that I got a very rough '82 XJ750 via barter from Craigslist, and was given the good advice to check the links to Information Overload, Church of the Clean, and a couple others. Those were useful links, and I also picked the Haynes manual and the Yamaha Service manual.

    That's all well and good, but where do I even begin? I feel like this bike needs a FULL teardown and rebuild, which is also what I'd LIKE to do (in part so I can custom paint the entire thing, starting w/frame), but.... there's no real go-to guide for how to do just that.

    I started with the obvious - the seat is off (it needs to be replaced anyway), the gas tank is off, and I removed the battery, rear cowling, rear lights, and a few other misc. parts.

    As of right now, my plan is to first remove the headlight and secondary light, and disconnect the brake, throttle, and other cables, clearing the handle bars. Then comes the fuse box and remainder of connecting wires. Next I'll remove the exhaust, after which I'll remove the intake and carbs. Then I'll remove the engine and gear box. Then the brakes, front wheel, handlebars, front forks, drive shaft, and finally rear wheel. Then strip whatever is left from the frame.

    After stripping it down, the plan is to tear apart and clean or rebuild each piece and lubricate and/or paint (if applicable) before reassembly.

    Is this a good approach? I'm certain I'm missing something major. What am I missing?
     
  2. Aaron B

    Aaron B New Member

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    I should also mention, just for reference, and to solicit further advice from more experienced techs: This is my first motorcycle ever. I've never worked on one before.

    My current approach for teardown is that all screws and bolts are remounted into whatever nut or hole they came out of. When painting time comes, I'll be doing ONE piece at a time so I can take any of them out, then mask and paint. Also, I have an excess of plastic storage bins that I am collecting pieces in - one for electrical, one for body peices (cowling, side covers), etc. This way (in case I have some extra hardware) I know at very least approximately what goes where.
     
  3. cgutz

    cgutz Well-Known Member

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    Take plenty of photos along the way as you tear down. It will help. I do this with any procedure, even a simple one like new cable. It has really helped me as I forget within minutes of disassembly!

    Also, remember function before form (i.e. make sure safety devices are working first, then reliability and running issues, then cosmetic comes last).
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2017
  4. Aaron B

    Aaron B New Member

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    Good tips! And yes, I'm with you on this. I'll be painting as I go, but that's def a secondary consideration for me. Other than powder black for the frame I have yet to decide on color scheme anyway. Might just repaint to original.
     
  5. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Don't tear it down yet.

    Start with the carbs, and valve adjustment. Make sure that the engine will run well before spending time and money on the bike.
     
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  6. Aaron B

    Aaron B New Member

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    That's good advice. I can prob pull the carbs right now while all the electronics are still connected and jump the battery to start it after cleaning it out.
     
  7. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    You received great advice Aaron and I agree the carbs are the 1st major challenge to undertake but even prior to that you should make sure the motor is able to move freely.
    Put it on the centre stand, take the spark plugs out, put it in 5th gear and see if you can manually turn the motor by moving the rear wheel.
    This will also tell you if the gearbox works. From there you might want to boost it with a good battery to measure the compression.
    As k-moe stated, you want it running before tearing it apart.

    But actually the 1st thing you should do is post a few picks. There are many astute eyes here and can tell you yay or nay just glancing at a few pics.
    The fact that you're keen on rebuilding/restoring this yourself garners a lot of respect here, just beware it's never cheap but the education is good investment.
     
  8. Aaron B

    Aaron B New Member

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    When you say that it's never cheap, just so I'm prepared: will I need to put an extra blanket in the doghouse?
     
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  9. Chitwood

    Chitwood Well-Known Member

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    Short answer...highly likely hahahaha
     
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  10. Stumplifter

    Stumplifter Well-Known Member

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    There is no shame laying with dogs...
     
  11. Jetfixer

    Jetfixer Well-Known Member

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    Label everything as you remove items. You should adjust valves, do a compression check , DO A FULL rebuild of the carbs READ ALL SEALS REPLACED ... =Church of clean . If the engine is out now would be a good time to split case and replace the starter clutch and guide . Don't get in a hurry , while bike is tore down make a list of items to make it safe first replace brake hoses ,rebuild calipers , replace brake pads/shoes . Tires are they worn or old (date stamp replace if more than 5 years old) Next look at xj4evers catalog add up what this will run expect to spend between 400 to 800 $ While it sounds high try buying a new bike , and having a payment on a bike you cannot ride in winter is not real cool. This is still a cheaper route at far as I'm concerned and I get a big grin when I ride my Seca
     
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  12. MattiThundrrr

    MattiThundrrr Not a guru

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    Yaay! Stumpy isn't ashamed of the "special time" we spent together!:p

    Not sure if I agree with you on this. It IS a good time to do this, but it's his first go at a bike... Perhaps splitting the cases is a bit much for first time. If it ain't broke, don't fix it! ... Just wanted to voice my opinion, and I'm not an expert!
     
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  13. Stumplifter

    Stumplifter Well-Known Member

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    That underwear you had on, with the stretched out elastic . . . . who wouldn't enjoy that?
     
  14. Wintersdark

    Wintersdark Well-Known Member

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    My advice, for what it's worth (most of which has already been said by smarter folks) in many more words:

    * Get the bike running well before even thinking about cosmetics. The last thing you want to do is spend a lot of time and money on cosmetics then find yourself unable to get the bike running well for whatever problem. We all look at a bike and imagine what we can do cosmetically, but get it running right - and safe - first.

    * Budget roughly $500 in total for Getting It Going. It may cost more, but probably won't cost less. Fortunately, that cost can be spread out, but you WILL need to get rebuild kits for the carbs and brakes, probably new pads/shoes, likely new brake lines, as an absolute minimum. Carb rebuild kit to be able to get it running well, and the brake components to be able to stop and thus not die. Both of these need to be done every few years, and you've got a 35 year old bike that almost certainly hasn't seen that sort of work in a decade or more plus.

    * Don't even think about tearing down the motor. It's probably fine to start with, and that's a project you don't want to get into if you can avoid it unless you have a lot of experience in that direction already.

    Combining the above, then, in order:

    1) Do a compression test first. A compression tester is ~$35, and the process is very easy - we can help there, too. You're less concerned with specific numbers and more with whether or not the cylinders are all equal(ish). You can pay to have it done, but it'll cost way more than the tester and the tester is a great tool to own. This will tell you if you ought to continue or if you should reconsider the whole project.
    2) Measure valves. This will cost you a metric feeler gauge ($5) and either some heavy twist ties or the Motion Pro Valve Bucket Retaining Tool ($10). You may need to replace the valve cover gasket after depending on the condition of the current one and/or need new valve shims, but the gasket can wait and the shims are very cheap. It can seem a bit scary, but is in fact very easy and pretty cool.
    3) Take the carbs to church: Clean them right, all the way, the first time. This will cost you ~$200 in rebuild kits (Send Chacal a message here on the forum, he can hook you up - also, check his threads here for his full catalog of everything you could possibly need, guaranteed right for your bike) and is the largest single expense. eBay kits will be a bit cheaper but do NOT include all the parts you'll need. (* Also: Be aware parts you get elsewhere, even from reputable stores, will often lack stuff you need or not be exactly right, and those parts counter guys won't know, because very few folks these days have a lot of knowledge about these specific bikes)
    4) Rebuild the brake calipers and the master cylinder(rebuild kits are reasonably inexpensive). Measure front brake pads, replace if necessary. If your brake lines even MAY be older than 4-5 years - that is, if they aren't obviously new - replace them. Check rear brake shoes for thickness, but even more importantly for delamination: the shoe material separating from the part of the shoe that it's glued to. This can happen if you have old rear brake shoes, even if there's a lot of material left. You do NOT want brake shoes coming off inside the brake drum at highway speeds..... or any speeds, really.

    At this point, you'd have a bike you can start and run, and it's just a matter of tuning it to run well, checking bearings, and all that stuff. Now, as you have a bike that can go and stop, NOW you can start making it pretty :)
     
  15. Jetfixer

    Jetfixer Well-Known Member

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    If the engine is going to be out at the very least pull the sump make sure no chuncks of guide is in there .... I would not want to go to the trouble of pulling the engine and reinstalling just to find out you can't get it into one or more gears . Realize it maybe his first bike , but with the manual and the forum he still should be able to do this. Many times mileage is not always the indication , if your base gasket or head to cylinder gasket have signs of leakage then this is the time to address this .
     
  16. Aaron B

    Aaron B New Member

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    Okay, so, status update: The battery is, of course, dead. No surprise, I can prob just jump that. I have the carbs out, and they are filthy - absolutely caked with varnish, etc. I have not yet drained/replaced the oil, but that is this weekend's project (along with cleaning out the fuel tank), however......

    Someone suggested to pull the spark plugs and put it into gear, then move the back tire to see if the pistons actually move. But I can't even put it into gear. The shifter is stuck really bad. The clutch handle also just moves completely free (and did so before I started dickering with anything).

    Maybe I just need to reconnect a cable or something - I hope. Suggestions? Am I panicking too early?

    EDIT: I just texted the guy I got the bike from. He mentioned something about a compression when I picked up the bike. He responded - he tested the compression already and it had good compression! Yay! I will verify, for sure, but that's a relief, for now.
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2017
  17. Wintersdark

    Wintersdark Well-Known Member

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    The clutch cable terminates on the right side of the crankcase. The spring is pretty strong, but to disengage the clutch (as per pulling the clutch lever) you just want to turn that clockwise - obviously against the spring. Not far - there's not a lot of travel needed to disengage the clutch
     
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  18. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    Dogs keep you warm.
     
  19. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    Pillows? Those aren't pillows!!
     
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  20. Aaron B

    Aaron B New Member

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    Ugh! Went to clean the gastank out, as it was cankered with rust. Well, it had actually rusted through in a couple spots. Not sure what I'm going to do, exactly. Going to try to find a used one somewhere as a new one is cost prohibitive.
     

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