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Steber's 81 XJ550 Bobber

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by steber, Aug 7, 2016.

  1. steber

    steber Active Member

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    Just working through final design of the box. With a sample of a similar style, following the K.I.S.S. guidelines for this, strictly business. Screenshot_20170728-132610.png f_1__26765.1387379143.400.400.png
     
  2. steber

    steber Active Member

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    New ignition came in, obvious 4 wire vs 3 wire needs to be wired up correctly, but seems easy enough. As for quality, well, my original switch has seen better days, and i don't thing the locking mech ever worked. so I'm happy to get rid of it. I'm surprised how small this really is.

    IMG_20170730_081720.jpg IMG_20170730_082226.jpg

    I toyed around with some mounting ideas.. I keep any sort of 'usable' metal when i can, and I had the original tank mount from the xv250 tank im using that I cut off. Low and behold it fit perfect, needs some trimming to mount a little better, but its an option. My original thought was at the horn mount and relocate the horn, i still may relocate the horn. Its starting to get 'busy' at the tank line on this side. I could also put the ignition switch on the other side of the tank as theirs two mounts that I was planning to trim off.

    I'll stop rambling, any input on all this is appreciated. I love the ideas that get tossed around here, so thanks in advance!


    IMG_20170730_084327.jpg
     
  3. steber

    steber Active Member

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    Battery box is done. It's easy to lose a mm or two in measuring the clearance. The box is super close to some clearance issues. Less than a quarter inch from the chain, and tht other side is going to ride 1/8 inch away from the brake pivot.

    A piece of flat stock will be riveted to the box so the box is removable, if need be. So I'll weld tht flat stock to frame which will hold tht box in place. Need a second set of hands to get this job done. Needs to align perfect so theirs no issues. Glad the box is done, jus wish I had a hand to get it in.

    IMG_20170803_170931.jpg
     

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  4. dkavanagh

    dkavanagh Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    That turned out really nice! Seeing that bar across the top where it's close to the terminals makes me recommend doing something to insulate that bar so it can't possibly short out the connections. Maybe just using a piece of bicycle innertube.
     
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  5. steber

    steber Active Member

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    That's a good idea. I was thinking up a few ideas on how to insulate. Laminate it with a tube might be a good idea. Or come up with a better cross bar that's non conductive could do the trick too.

    All in all, I'm a bit stressed for time and patience on this project. This seems to be one of the last big hurdles for me to get over to get The bike to a point where it'll run and drive. I think at that point once I know the bike runs and is sound I'll consider it "done" for the year, As I've been working to that point for nearly two summers now.

    It's been a long stressful journey, mostly due to my time constraints. The bike is truly far from done, and I've come to terms it'll take a few phases to get the bike to where I really want it for fit and finish. If I can take this bike around the block before theirs snow on the ground, that's a huge win for me personally.
     
  6. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    a couple of layers of heatshrink the kind that is lined with glue may do the trick
     
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  7. dkavanagh

    dkavanagh Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    I like this heat shrink idea. I forgot they made it that size. It would shrink to fit very nicely and then trim at the ends where the holes are.
     
  8. steber

    steber Active Member

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    Pretty excited about these little gems. They're dual color so inner band is red while the outer edge is amber.
    IMG_20170807_151025.jpg

    So I'll have the red as the tail (in addition to my side mount taillight/brake) and the amber will be set to the turns.

    I wanted the dual colors so that the turns will hopefully be able to be distinguished better with the lights being so close together. Granted it's not the best of ideas for visibility, but it'll get the job done.
     
  9. steber

    steber Active Member

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    well.. turns out I assumed wrong about these.. which is my own fault, and obvious by the colors of the wires hanging from the light itself. I was under the impression the lights were grounded from the bolt, and the two leads were positive for the red and one for the amber, but they share a common positive. I was able to pull them apart, and its a single board that runs these lights, so separating the positive from them is impossible. I am considering adding my own red leds into the housing somehow and just using the shown leads for the turns.

    That or finding a set that is set up and wired as i actually want them to be. In all honesty, i got them off flea bay for $4.00 shipped to test the idea of them even fitting. I wired similar lights and they used the bolt as the ground on a single color, so late night ordering got the best of me on this one. I'm alright with a total loss on these for under five bucks. Maybe I can figure out a way to add another board, or i'll just junk them.
     
  10. steber

    steber Active Member

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    Looks like if I double my investment I can combine the two with a bit of filling, grinding, and soldering to make what I'm looking for.

    IMG_20170807_175517.jpg

    The one was actually broke upon arrival, so I'm contacting the vendor about that issue. Seeing how I already tore them apart to make mine, I'm not expecting much.

    Here's the end result with a quick video. Still need to modify the case a bit to make everything fit but it looks like it'll work.

    https://goo.gl/photos/m8Y9RTy19UfqntVd6
     
  11. steber

    steber Active Member

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    I got the battery box in place today. A tight fit is beyond anything that can be said about it. I'm hugging the right side of the bike by the pivot point for the brake by a 1/16 of an inch. I wanted to put it as far right as possible, as the other side is the chain, I seem to have nearly a half inch of clearance on the chain side which i'm comfortable with. The battery can slide in and out without having to remove the box, and I riveted the box to the bike because:

    A) only have one set of hands to do the work
    B) Wasn't sure (because of A) that I would have it aligned correctly
    C) Want the box to be removable as I think it needs to come out to remove the engine (which hopefully I won't have to do for many years, but i like to think ahead)

    I'm sure its not as strong as welds, but im confident its not going anywhere. Obviously I still need to insulate the top bar so it doesn't short the terminals, its still on the list, as its not mounted to the bike i can address that at some point in the future. Just need to find out where to find heat shrink that size.

    Well, as i said getting this is was one of the last hurdles. I can move forward with the wiring when i find the time. I don't know why I had it in my head that the rectifier would fit down under there too. This leaves me with having to find a home. Once again, asking for some suggestions in placement. Is it paintable? Its finned so i assume it has a fair amount of heat to it. I'd imagine I'd want to place it in some place that sees some air flow? Off to research/stare at the bike/hope i find an answer.
     

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  12. steber

    steber Active Member

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    Here's an idea, not sure on logistics, but it's what popped in my head. As got ground clearance it's still above bottom of exhaust and should fair well. Just an idea, looking for some input. Thanks
     

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  13. dkavanagh

    dkavanagh Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    I might mount it flat (upside down) with the fins going forward and back on the bike (in the direction of airflow, if it matters). Then the leads would be to the side and not likely to get caught on anything. I'd bring the leads to the "not chain" side. :)
     
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  14. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    nice location
     
  15. steber

    steber Active Member

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    dkavanagh, I def agree that would be optimal. The problem then becomes that it's longer than the battery box. I'm ultimately trying to keep this footprint as small as possible. A challenge I already feel I missed, but i agree that would be better.

    This bike should be called necessary evil, or bad idea, or stupid sacrifices, or jalopy bike. I know I've butchered this bike up, some days I'm happy with it, others I wonder why I even decided to do this! All I know is I truly love all my bikes, especially the XJ. Regrets or not I'll push forward to at least finish. (Then look for a stock XJ to add to the stable for a full RESTORE)

    At any rate, the argument could be made it'll never see airflow regardless of orientation. Also considering it was mounted under the side cover originally it never saw airflow to begin with. I'm also just keeping an eye out for another spot where it can see the fins orientated in a way to see flow.
     
  16. dkavanagh

    dkavanagh Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Yea, I know the airflow argument was a weak one!
    but, somehow, that's the "faster" orientation. ha!
    the regulator is "taller" that the battery? wow. Could you simply mount it on the battery hold-down strap? That puts it effectively behind the battery on the bike, but a little higher off the ground. Are you thinking of any kind of protective plastic over this area? I've used Kydex on some projects and that stuff is tough and can be heat formed. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kydex)
     
  17. steber

    steber Active Member

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    I could mount it on the tie down, another idea I was toying with. Kydex seems great! I have been thinking how to shield this area from the elements and that looks like a good idea. I'll definitely keep that in mind, thank you. Looks like I could get a nice tight protection without sacrificing space
     
  18. dkavanagh

    dkavanagh Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    It can be flexed into an arc to an extent. Tighter and more permanent bends can be done w/ a heat gun.
     
  19. steber

    steber Active Member

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    Did some internal wiring through the frame for the turns and tail combo. Placed an order for another set of blinkers to customize into my custom blinkers. Wiring seems never ending, even though I feel like I'm close to done I easily spend a few hours here and there. The harness going down the back is thick. No where to hide it except keeping it wrapped close to the frame. Wiring it internally through the frame would have been a good idea, but I also want this nightmare to end at some point. Or maybe I just love to complain while I work, whistling is so over rated. I really just want to turn the key and start seeing if these circuits are going to work. I've been super diligent with the wiring, which means if something is wrong I'm really going to be at a loss. Anyways, one day at a time is the best I can do.
     

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  20. dkavanagh

    dkavanagh Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    One word of caution. My wife's uncle had a 2002 Harley that he put some new LED tail lights on. They are really small. I was riding behind him a few weeks ago and in the daylight, I could barely see the brake lights. Please make sure what you are using is bright enough to get noticed in sunlight. It's for your own good! :)
     

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