Steber's Cantankerous Wiring Conundrum

So it's tangible.. seems like my only concern is fitting all the sensors and such. I'm going to take a stab at this, hopefully it'll work out, if not my original plan was Minimal harness, but I already feel more knowledgeable by depining and moving wires, so if it comes to minimal I think my confidence will be up.

 

To much Homebrew to figure out how to delete a double post

 

It's truly the build where every inch counts. Been straightening more wires, getting things in their relative place. I might split the whole harness to re do the turns, I'm going to switch to a two pin relay for leds and such, and deleting the self canceling will make more room under the tank.

Need to see where I can mount starter solenoid, hopefully as close to battery as possible. Hoping I can get rectifier on outside of battery box.

Dizzy from tracing all this, impressed with the condition the harness is in. And depining the connectors has saved me from cutting any wires yet.

 

What am i missing here? This is the kickstand switch, and what i think to be the right wires for it, yet the connectors dont line up? first of "what did i mess up' connectors. Nothings been cut yet, so I'm trying to figure what i'm missing.

 

there is a short harness about 2 feet long that goes from sidestand switch to the connector in your hand
bullet con one end square end on the other.

 

ah.. makes sense, can't really see that in the schematic.. well i already need to trim down this line, so i'll go with the bullet connectors to save space. Thanks.

 

One more.. seems to be close to the last one I need to sort out besides lighting. Coming from the oil pan, can't find where it hooks in.



Speaking of lighting, also a blue bullet connector by the tci, taped in with it, any idea? Can get pictures, my head's dizzy from sorting everything, but I'm feeling I can keep nearly all safety features.

 

wire white ?not sure yet is it from oil level switch in oil pan? shoud hook into a red/blue wire leading to diode block

dark blue in the pick up harness goes to a light blue in main harness about 4 inches long.

short 4 inch light blue is located in main harness under the tool tray aside of tci

 

removed incorrect wires
info

 

Theirs no red/blue their is black with red, which does lead to diode block.

Found a light blue, my harness is stripped so lengths are really a thing, it ties in the main harness, where it junctions and goes into the bars and the safety relay.

I assume both these are correct? Thanks for the help.

 

Also no available Brown except for horn (with pink)

 

let me check again I will look on bike and spare harness

it may be a black/red wire near heavy red wire for solinoid

it is the black red wire i think your index finger is pointing to it

 

I think i need to step back for a minute than, black/red to the white to the oil pan makes sense, as the black/red enters the diode block. Also, the light blue to the dark blue near tci makese sense for a neutral switch wire. (why its dark blue coming up from the bottom i have no idea)

so really, i have a chocolate, blue, and green bullet connector free, which are all part of the taillight/turn signal respectively. I could be reading everything completly wrong... its been a lot of tracing wires. This bike is an 82 XJ550 maxim, so I'm not sure if some harnesses are different than others.

As stated, its about dinner time, so im going to walk away from the bike for now. I think its right currently, but Im still not sure on that white wire to black/red. any other information is appreciated..

 

white to black red is correct varified on bike and spare harness

this is also correct an have varified on bike and spare harness.

 

Great, so we're on track. Let's move on a bit too my trimming. To disable the canceling unit just 'unplug'.. well I eliminated the pins on the leads and cut back to the nearest junction on any wires tied together. This is essentially the same, correct?

 

sounds good . a lead to no where is not needed.

 

I think I'm in the clear, this is a much better method to retain all my safety features. What a mess though, def not the easiest route. I've only just begun mapping. All relays and solenoids need to find a home and once they are hard mounted I will begin the final shortening and lengthening of all wires. As of right now I'm confident that everything is going to be a tight fit but will also work very well , the end is almost in sight.

 

building off of removing the self canceling unit, as stated i depinned the connectors,such as the 3 pin connector for the relay (B L C) is now only a two pin (B L), as (c) went to the self cancel unit.Now, I have a two pin flasher relay that only has (B) and (L), the pins line up to compliment the new 2 pin flasher. Is this all that is needed? it appears one side taps into the brown(A powered circuit, i think) and the other pin taps into the turn signal switch itself. If i need to rewire it I can, but it seems this should just work as the C was eliminated.

 

Research the wire you buy and make sure its not just coper coated but all copper stranded. some are copper coated aluminium. Good thread to watch.

 

On the flasher, yes. At least in my experience. I simply unplugged the stock one and plugged an electronic one in. I believe I left the self canceller in there even though it's now disabled but probably because it's hidden under the tank and I forgot about it. I installed a load equalizer in the rear turn signal wires and hid it behind the airbox so my led signals work flawlessly even with the indicator bulb in the cluster