Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Lateralus, Oct 12, 2017.
This is a picture of it! and do you know where i can get the oil from?
Penetrating oil can be found at any hardward store, discount store, auto store. I got Liquid Wrench penetrating oil at Wallyworld.
FYI - WD40 is not a good substitute.
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Make sure you use the CORRECT size 8mm box end wrench or 1/4" drive 8mm deep well socket .
In NY state, "retailers must accept, free of charge, up to two used lead batteries per month from any individual. It is illegal to dispose of these batteries in the trash."
So i tried to use PB Blaster on it but it still won't break lose! The Nut which the 8mm wrench wraps around has stripped so i'm not sure what to do without making things worse, is there any other way to bleed the fork without using the bleeder valve?
No there is no other way to bleed caliper. One thing you can try is to put an open end wrench on bleeder and put a small piece of pipe about 2ft long this increaces your arm force ...you could get some pvc or brass or copper as long as it fits wrench .
If you haven't rebuilt the caliper, then the job of removing the stuck bleeder becomes less-risky.
Pull the caliper off to rebuild it, knowing that you won't be reusing the seals. Now you can gleefully apply heat, and candle wax, to free up the bleeder.
The main reason that they get stuck so badly is that the sealing face gets corroded by old, contaminated, brake fluid. Since the surface is fairly broad, that makes for a very difficult bond to break-free.
As k-moe said, if you choose now to rebuild it, it becomes much simpler. Honestly, it's worth rebuilding it to not have to worry as much about getting it out. I've had to do similar on auto calipers before. Had one that had been rounded and attacked with vice grips. Had to heat it and drill it out.
I have had good luck welding a nut to the bleeder even if they are broken off and getting them out that way. The trick is to work them back and forth not just trying to back it all the way out in one shot. I can also see, especially on a mc caliper, that too much heat can and will cause issues with the seals inside
Hey guys we'll psotpone the bleeder fix for now! I've got some new issues to have arised! so i got the bike going everything looks good so far, but now the rear break light is staying on, and when i press the rear break pedal nothing happens, and also my throttle is stickng.. what to do?
Replace the rear brake switch. Lube the throttle cable for starters. The brake switches are plentiful and cheap.
Check the brake light switch on the front brake lever purch. The switch may have popped out keeping the light on.
Could you show me a picture of it!
I will get a picture when I get home tonight. It will be late. Someone else may post a picture before me.
Alright guys so i got the bleeder valve free with a pair of 3x Grip Locking Pliers, but now it seems as if there is no pressure in the line/caliper, so as i pump its not building up pressure! And another problem has arose out of thin air, it seems like im having a parasitic draw somewhere in the Electrical system, does anyone know how to test for a draw i have my multimeter and i have been testing but im not sure where to place the dial! Here is a picture of my multimeter
Parasitic draws are usually small in amperage but as I see your meter in unfused on the amperage side you're going to have to be careful. Disconnect the battery ground cable and give it a few minutes for anything on the bike to power completely down, then hook your meter in series(red lead to battery terminal, black lead to ground cable) and read what you have. Start pulling each fuse and see if your reading drops out. That will tell you which circuit(s) are likely the culprit. You have to switch the read lead on your meter to the left of the black lead and turn the dial to the DC 10A. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
Here are some pictures. I hope this helps.