Vacuum Leak on XJ 550 Maxim

Well turns out the front break switch works fine when i pull it in, but when i press on the rear break i get nothing and when i plug the yellow wire that comes from the rear break the light just stays on and when i unplug it the light comes off so I'm not sure, and plus when i unplug the ignition fuse the short/draw goes away so what now?

 

the rear brake switch is adjustable to compensate for brake peddle position (brake peddle is also adjustable)

do you have draw with key off? and no draw with key off and fuse removed?

 

your ignition wiring. places to look if parisitic draw exists with key off and ignition fuse inplace.
1 voltage regulator may be faulty. Br(own) wire . unplug regulator see if draw goes away. also measure for voltage at fuse holder both side before and after unpluging

 

Hey Guys, Alright so update time! I've Got The Bike running and everything seems to be working fine, i installed the New Boots and i have No Vacuum Leaks so far, and i rewired everything up and made sure to electrical tape any wires which had some of the wire exposed, i've tried everything to get the rear break light to work when the pedal is pressed and nothing, so i am just going to order a New One when i get the chance and hope it works! I have checked for a Parasitic Draw But feel like that's not it, because the bike doesn't get drawn down when the Key is out of the ignition it remains with proper voltage readings 12.4-12.5-12.6v when left all night long no power drainage except for a few volts pegged off from sitting, (the usual)..Now the Problem is when i turn the Ignition on, the bike will drop from 12.5+ to around 12.29-12.35 and just stay around that area, so I'm thinking i have a problem with Charging System!---Continue

 

I have Already taken off the stator Cover and Checked the Rotor and the Rotor reads around 4.8-4.9 volts so i know that's good, i checked the Brushes and got readings across both brushes! So their good, but i don't know how to go about checking the stator, im going to check the Manual soon when i get the chance and see if i can find the procedure to go about doing it, in the mean time hopefully one of you guys may already know how!

 

Also i have Bought a New Regulator Rectifier (Used) and same thing no charge i have tested both my old Regulator/Rectifier and the New/Used one, and have researched, most of what i have learned about them states that if the Regulator/Rectifier goes bad then too much Voltage will be getting sent/through to the Battery and essentially fry it, so i don't think its the Regulator/Rectifier, so far, all Charging componets have been checked Including the battery, except for the Stator, so that's my last piece to check for faulty function!

 

The slight drop when turning the key on would be normal. The charging system needs to be checked with the bike running; spec is 14.5V =/- .3V at 2000 RPM and up.

 

how do i test the stator? without taking the cover off?

 

wires in the connector of the voltage regulator


all the info you need is here
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/the-ultimate-relay-switch-sensor-and-diodes-guide.27543/


Checking Alternator Stators:

Measure the resistance across each pair (white1 to white2, white1 to white3, and white2 to white3) of the three white wires (white1, white2, and white3) at the connector; the specifications should be:

0.50 ohms +/- 10% for all XJ550 models.

Checking Alternator Rotors:

Measure the resistance across the two lead wires (usually brown and green) at the connector; the specifications should be:.

4.5 ohms +/- 10% for all XJ550 models.

 

These are the readings im getting, when i test arcoss all 3 wires White1 to white2 white1 to white3 and white2 to white3 i get 0.00 ohms, when i touch the positive lead from the multimeter to the battery and the negative lead to right prong i get 3.32 ohms, here are some pictures! I have also test the Connector with the 3 black wires and get a reading of 0.08 across all 3, also a new problem has arose! i've had the bike running pretty well besides these charging issues, i took it for a test ride to make sure everything was ok, beside the known problems and when i brought him in for a landing i stopped, everything was fine, i put the kick stand down before i turned the starter switch off, the bike shut down and has not turned back on since!.. when i put the key in the ignition and turn it on all i get is my brake light coming on Nothing at the dashboard! When i press the starter button all i get is the oil light coming on, i charged the battery and put it on the bike about 15-20 mins ago, and still nothing! I have also tried putting it in and out of gear back and forth! But still nothing and it wont go into neutral, atleast im not getting the indicator/green light like normal so i don't know what to do from here!

 

side stand switch is sticking. with bike in gear bike should shut down when kickstand is deployed. touch your probes together see what you get for a reading. meter should be set to lowest readings for alt testing

pull out the side stand relay put bike in neutral see if it starts

 

Alright.

 

My arms are long enough that I can reach down pull on the side stand switch piston and pull it it out the last little bit that sticks..... try pulling the piston out out any farther

 

That is not right and it would appear you have a blown diode in the regulator. Disconnect the regulator and perform the diode check per the FSM.

If this is the male terminal side (main harness / rectifier) this would also not be right. Once again check the diodes in the regulator per the FSM.

Check your battery again with the DMM, those readings on the regulator could cause it to deplete quite rapidly. Recheck fuses also.

Diode check below, note that polarity will likely reverse as the Yamaha "pocket testers" reverse the polarity on the leads. Most modern meters have a true positive and negative when selecting the diode scale. The maim point is one direction on the diode is approximately 540 ohms, and when the probes are reversed it should read open.

The side stand relay does not affect the starter circuit, but the side stand switch does if trying to start in gear with the clutch pulled in and the side stand up. Since the OP has issues with the bike not cranking he has other problems.

 

Update time! So i got him out of his gear snag and he starts right up, now i believe we're getting somewher, so remember when i said i bought a New/Used Regulator/Rectifier? Well i decided to just say screw it, go for broke and buy another one, this time Brand New, to Eliminate Problems hopefully, so now that i have a brand new one i put it on the bike and still no Charge which means its got to be something else in the charging system! Im thinking its the stator! Because i took the cover off and checked the rotors and got a reading of 4.8-4.9 the brushes i don't remember but i did get a decent reading, however the stator is still the only thing im left to truly check for faults, because when i checked the 3 white wire leads that come from the stator it read OL "Open Line" on 2 of the white wires/leads and 3.32 on 1 of them so i think that's my problem, if the stator is grounding to the frame on the inside how do i go about rectifying and fixing it, if that is the problem?

 

Need some clarification as I can't quite make out in the pictures what is going on.

In the below pic that you posted, the male terminals are usually part of the engine harness and the white wires should go to the Rect/Reg assembly. This is where you are showing OL on two of the pins and 33.2 ohms on the other, which indicates an issue with the Rect / Reg or perhaps wiring harness.



Note that it not unusual to read a bit high on the stator because of the low resistance, but a reading of around .6 should be expected with the DMM set to its lowest scale.

 

I Measured the Connector with the 3 Black wires and they Read .8 when i measured the Connector with The 3 White Wires, 2 of the 3 leads read 00.0 and 1 of the leads reads 33.3!.. so what's going on?

 

Its all good, i got that issue fixed, i just put in the sidestand, pushed the start button saw that it wanted to start, and just pulled in the clutch and rolled the bike back and forth, until it came back into proper gear, lifted up slighty on the gear shifter and into neutral it went, problem solved!...

 

So the stator is likely OK, and you also verified no path to chassis ground on the stator connector?

As for the 3 white wires the OL (00.0?) would be normal. The 33.3 not so much, but checking continuity on those wires with a battery connected might create some strange results. One leg of the AC Generator also goes to the diode block and then to the headlight relay, but I would suspect there would have to be defective components to cause that low of a reading. I would suggest disconnecting the battery and try again to see if the 33.2 ohms goes away.

Next on the list would be a point to point wire check using the DMM and verify the wiring to the Rect / Reg is per print. It's an easy process and should take just a couple of minutes. As you check continuity point to point, be sure to check each wire to chassis ground to look for any other anomalies - battery still disconnected.

Also, please describe you process for checking the charging system. I had first posted about this when you mentioned just turning the key on and the voltage dropping. So to verify, you are starting the bike, revving above 2000 rpm, and verifying the voltage across the battery?

 

Alright so check it! I have completely undone the wiring! And have disconnected all of the relay's and i still get the same result with just connecting the positive wire and the negative wire up to the battery! I set it to Ohms to see if it still happens and it does, strange part about it is when i touch the two leads from the DMM Which is Connected to the battery (via Aligator clips) it goes away! so it looks like something is grounding to the frame on the inside! problem is i don't know how to check the inside of the engine for faulty wiring..