XJ600/FJ600 Custom Bike Build with Microsquirt

Man, I knew this was going to be hard, but what a nightmare. I'm getting spark, just at the wrong time, it back fires through the intake. Then when I adjust the offset, it doesn't work.

Anyway, just messing around with the settings, and learning to use the Tuner Studio program. Have been reading some guides and manuals online, but nothing really specific for Microsquirt on a bike. When I get it sorted, I will write a set up guide.

Here's the mess.

 

Swap your plug wires around. Sounds like you've got 2/3 where 1/4 should go.

 

Tried that, still did the same thing. I'm fairly certain I have the offset too far off. Messing around with it today, so we'll see if I can make any progress.

 

Part of why your front tire is rubbing is because you don't have it bolted on the left side---I can see the hole. By putting that in, it will line up the fender correctly----

 

The fender mount isn't on backwards, it only fits one way, and the reason why the holes don't line up is because I have already raised the fender bracket a 1/4 of an inch with some homemade spacers. The tire is just too big and won't work with my fender.

I am planning on making a smaller one anyway. For now, I'll just deal with riding without one, and if it rains, well, I'll deal with that then.

The fender alignment was just fine with the old tire, but with this one it is just all messed up. The fender is the last thing on my list, I just want to ride before it snows. I'm not sure how many miles these tires will even last, so I'm not too terribly worried, I'll try to find the right size, well the right new size or different manufacture, and then my fender will fit.

Thanks for all the help and comments anyway, it's always good to have another set of eyes looking at your project, in case you miss something blatantly obvious, which is very possible for me haha.

 

Then it keeps coming back to the wrong tire size, I guess

 

Agreed, I'll just order a smaller tire if the new tires are bigger for some reason

 

Measure the width at the widest point. and the height from the rim to the center of the tread. See how closely that compares to what the sidewall says it is supposed to be (110 mm wide and 99 mm tall).

 

Will it spark if turned over by hand? If so you can go 'old school' with a pencil down teh plug hole to check tdc . If it sparks just a tad before hand you at least have a starting point.. I was always taught that and engine starts more easily with ignition retarded, then you can fine tune maybe?

 

Sorted out the weird spark issue. The trigger wheel that I welded onto my stock spacer wasn't perfectly center, so it would lose contact with the wheel, and the signal would go dead from the VR sensor. Another issue is that in the Microsquirt manual, it calls for .75-1.00 mm gap between the sensor and the wheel, and I had roughly 2.5 mm. So, I drew up a new wheel, and it will be done later this week. I will be machining a spacer as well, so it will be perfectly on center.

My new wheel with be quite a bit lighter than the solid one that I bought before, and it looks cooler. Not like anyone will see it, but I know it will be there. The trigger wheel will have .875mm of gap, so I am right in the middle of what the manual calls for. Crossing my fingers, but after I get the new wheel in there, it should start up with not too much trouble. Just comes down to getting the fuel and spark settings right.

 

well then we must see it !

 

This thread looks interesting. I am wondering if you'll notice any increase in power once everything is set.

 

I am expecting to gain some throttle response, and I should see a gain in torque and power throughout the rpm range, since I can tune everything for every specific rpm and throttle position.

 

Keep at Jon

Dave F

 

Things are really starting to shape up.

Just got the new trigger wheel that I designed, and wow. Not to brag, but this thing looks wicked cool. The best thing is seeing the finished product of your design. Quite the feeling.

It is substantially lighter than the old solid one that I had. Now I can go to bed at night with a piece of mind, knowing that I have a lightweight trigger wheel on the FJ.

Next, I have to machine the spacer needed to bolt the engine into the original crank location.

Just wait, you might see a running fuel injected FJ just in time for snowfall.

Here it is:

 

Looks great Can't wait to see the final result.

 

Small typo,

I have to machine the spacer to bolt the trigger wheel to the stock location.

 

Some day when I have nothing else to do, I am going to figure out how much of a difference, rotationally, my lightened trigger wheel makes compared to a solid one. It would be an interesting piece of information, especially if you want to add or subtract a few ounces of curb weight, and what difference it makes while running. Save that one for a rainy/snowy day.

The new trigger wheel fits perfectly, and looks pretty neat bolted on. I had some success in getting it to fire; it spits and sputters on every crank rotation. It is very exciting because although it doesn't run, (and that I'm convinced that it hates me and never wants to be woken up from the dead again), it's making noise, so I know I'm heading in the right direction.

Side note on the "the bike hates me" deal: I have been riding for a few years now, and I have yet to just drop a bike. I have crashed, but never just dropped one. The FJ on the other hand, I have dropped it while unloading it from the rack on my pickup (will post a picture of my sweet moto rack) and just the other day, I was moving it and I dropped it off of my table. Lucky for me, it landed on some cardboard boxes and tool boxes (more soft than the concrete) and my header is 14ga mild steel, only suffered one scratch.

It's like waking up sleeping beauty, except this one is ugly, and you don't want to kiss it.

Back to it: I decided to throw the carburetors back on the bike while I get the timing sorted out to eliminate some variables while trying to get the engine to start. Once the timing is sorted and it runs, I will then put the throttle bodies back on and start adding fuel until it starts under fuel injection.

A note for anyone trying to get an engine to start in TunerStudio. In TunerStudio, when getting the engine to fire up initially, use "fixed timing" instead of timing from the ignition table. Then you'll know what timing you need to start the motor. Some hind sight: maybe check the timing on the CDI and stock trigger wheel before putting the Microsquirt on the bike to possibly expedite this process.

 

Small update. In exchange for a few Budweisers, a friend of mine machined the spacer I needed. Now I just have to set the motor at TDC and weld the spacer and wheel together. Press fit would have been idea, but this time a little tack weld will do.





Working a lot during harvest, but with any down time, I'll be chipping away at the bike.