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xj650 brat/tracker

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by sybe, Sep 7, 2015.

  1. Ribo

    Ribo Prefectionist

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    Hey dude - bike looks great - I recognize those grips and that tail-light :) I really want to make a seat like that for mine!

    Any tips / tricks on using that carbon fiber would be appreciated. Do you have any issue with clearance as you lowered the gap for the rear wheel?

    Who did you get to do that upholstery in Baltimore?
     
  2. sybe

    sybe Active Member

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    Thanks man. The shop i used for the stitching is bens auto glass. They were pricey at $350, but the stitching work is awesome. You might be able to find someone cheaper.

    The clearance in the rear is fine. I tested it out by having my stepdad sit on the seat with me. I also hopped up and down on the seat to simulate bumps and all was good.

    I can put a tutorial together on how i made the seat pan and what i used for the padding. Might take me a day or two.

    Are you looking to install a frame hoop for the seat or keep it stock?
     
  3. Ribo

    Ribo Prefectionist

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    Thanks dude - that would be great.

    I plan on adding a frame hop - but I'm also toying with keeping the frame stock in the back besides this and make the seat with a rear hump. Should be the same concept/process though.
     
  4. sybe

    sybe Active Member

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    The hardest part is figuring out what you want and how to mount it to the bike. If you keep the stock airbox in place you will be limited, but there are solutions. Welding is a must.
     
  5. Ribo

    Ribo Prefectionist

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    Yeah, I have a pretty good idea of how I'm going to do it now. I actually haven't done any welding before - well not since high school that is - and i don't have the gear so I just need to figure out what I need to have done and pay/barter someone to do it for me. I'm hoping the only thing I'll need is the frame hoop - once I get that sorted I can make the base for the seat like you did with the fiberglass. Did you post that tutorial somewhere? No rush if not, just wondering.
     
  6. sybe

    sybe Active Member

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    Haven't had time to do a write up yet. Been swamped with stuff with the wife and work. I'll try to do one asap.
     
  7. sybe

    sybe Active Member

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    In between time enjoying my 2 month old son, i managed to get my bike running with no issues. I went with oem gaskets just to make sure fitment was perfect. During the rebuild, i decided to relap the valves again and replace the stem seals with oem and recleaned the pistons. Ac delco aka... Genuine GM Fluid 1052626 Upper Engine Cleaner removes carbon like melted butter. 2 + 2 gum cutter is awesome too. When reinspecting piston 3 and 4 i noticed i missed some carbon which was causing the rings to stick. Sprayed some cleaner and cleaned it off with a toothbrush and wham-oh. No more burning oil.

    I also managed to rework my seat a bit. The thumb screws i used would fall off while riding, so i had to rethink a new way to lock the seat. 1/4 Turn Quick Release Race Fairing Fasteners plus resin was my solution. It works better than the shoulder screws.

    Took her out for a spin on friday, colortuned and she is purring.

    I did notice a flat spot in my rpm range that might be due to using a baffle and packing my mufflers. The jets i am using are stage 2 for the pods and the open mufflers. I know i know airbox is better. I was thinking of switching to a mikuni but wasnt sure if it would work. Mikuni bs33 is what i was eyeing. What do you guys think?

    Battery doesnt seem to be charging so i plan to tackle it next. Might just buy a core and rectifier off ebay. If i wanted to upgrade the charging circuit to allow for more power, is it even possible?
     
  8. sybe

    sybe Active Member

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    I am finally done... for now anyway. Enjoying riding her around brooklyn, few odds and end needs tweaking. All in all she is riding great.
     

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  9. Drake

    Drake Member

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    Hey mate I'm currently wiring in a m unit blue
    Where does the two brown wires go that come from the regulator and out of the ac unit? Do these two wires get spliced together then ran to a constant or switched power like AUX? thanks
     
  10. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    threads is a little old
    wiring diagram shows 1 wire from voltage regulator and another from alt. both go to off and join up to fuse block and key
     

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  11. Drake

    Drake Member

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    Thanks for that so it's a switched power?

    Unfortunately sybe inbox is full so I can't message him
     
  12. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    it is turned on by the ignition switch key and feed by the main fuse

    main fuse sends voltage to key when key is turned on the voltage goes to the brown wire back to the fuse box and to alt brushes to excite them
     
  13. sybe

    sybe Active Member

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    Did you get this figured out?
     
  14. Drake

    Drake Member

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    I have spliced and wired both browns in with the main 12v red from the regulator/rectifier to a switched 12v I think I have it right
     
  15. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    what do you mean by switched 12 volt?

    the stock configuration the brown wires from key to fuse block are switched on by the key. so is the brown wire to alternator brushes.
    key is powered from main fuse , when switched on it powers the brown wires.

    if you mimic this action with a toggle switch or something similar you should be good
     
  16. sybe

    sybe Active Member

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    Both brown wires are connected via the aux out on the munit. This way power is controlled via the key.
     
  17. sybe

    sybe Active Member

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    To consolidate some of my threads i am posts some updates to my bike here.

    Since the bike was last "finished" everything was great. The bike ran good, looked good and it was home in Brooklyn! Rode it into Manhattan once a week to work which was amazing. The morning drive on the FDR highway towards 42nd street... with the sun shining on the water, the wind and being 80 degrees i was in love all over again.

    Once riding weather was over the bike got wrapped up and chained to a telephone pole where i live. The following winter took a toll on the bike and basically beat the crap out of it. From the constant snow, salt and rain, the frame near the center stand started to rust, my gas tanks clear coat showed a few weak points and the rain destroyed the clear over bare metal. Worse of all, the fiberglass seat pan fasteners rusted out as well and broke out of the fiberglass. Being heart broken I brought the bike back to New Jersey and looked at everything that happened and came up with a new plan:

    • The first thing i addressed was the gas tank and it was the easiest. After talking to different body shops and paint specialists they didn't recommend using clear over metal, pushing me to my decision to paint the whole tank silver with reproducing the red striping.
    • Next was fabricating a new seat using marine boat epoxy and coming up with a new mounting system. The previous system used two 1/4 quick release bolts to hold the pan down. The mounting points were two L-brackets that i welded to the frame. Over time this system became a pain, if the screws weren't tight enough they would fall out and get lost. Also sometimes aligning them up was annoying. The solution i came up with was to cut the two tabs off the frame and weld in a new 1/8th thick cross bar that was roughly 2.5 - 3 inches in depth and use larger stainless steel Butterfly Self-Ejecting Quarter Turn Fasteners. The new fasteners are riveted into the new cross bar and the mounting point is not inside the seat. See link for product demo .
    • I did a r6 fork swap....The r6 forks are installed with updated hand controls. I bounced around the idea of going for the new minimal buttons by motone and others but i couldn't justify the price for clicky buttons. The hand controls i went with are from a GSXR 750 GSXR750 (right) and 2002 Suzuki Haybusa GSX1300R Busa (left). The Busa left hand controls updates the look a bit and has an integrated choke that to me is more streamlined. I had to make a few modifications to the controls wiring and create a new collar for the throttle cable. but i am happy with how they turned out.
    • New renthal handlebars
    • Rewired the entire bike to use 110 terminal connectors.
    • Center stand replaced
    • repainted parts of the frame
    Whats next:
    • new shorter headlight brackets: I don't like the current placement.
    • new custom brake lines
    • master cylinder res removal
    • new turn signals
    • might modify the rear tail and fender to work with LED Supernova Brake and Turn-Signal Lights
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     

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    Calvert likes this.
  18. 50gary

    50gary Active Member

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    How's your ground clearance with the R6 forks? Did you change the rake angle? Did you change the forks springs? I have a set of R1 forks getting prepped to go on my '82 750 Maxim. At 31.5 (Maxim) degrees the R1 forks may be pretty short? I will probably re-set the head tube to 25 degrees.
    Cheers, 50gary
     
  19. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    110 is that a style or quantity? seems like a lot :)
     
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  20. sybe

    sybe Active Member

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    I didn't change the rake angle or the offset. I am using the r6 stock bottom triple tree with a cognitomoto top tree and stem. If you want to do a custom offset on the triples i believe cognitomoto can make those adjustments on a custom top and bottom set. The front of the bike will be lower, i dont recall how much lower. To help balance out the stance i plan on going with a taller front tire. 130/80 17 and lowering the rear shock. i have a 12.5 inch shock on the bike now so going to 11 should be fine.

    i am not in a rush so i am taking my time with it. i dont plan on changeing the fork springs unless its needed.

    lol its the new trend and look for cafe connectors. i used MTW 2.8mm-.110 connectors for 16-22 gauge wire.
     

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