XJ650 maxim -> brat/cafe

I bought a xj650 this past summer and decided to convert it to a brat/cafe style bike. I have some of the work already done but could use some assistance.

I want to have a flat seat that sits on the rear frame with little modification. I would also like new suspension on the rear and was wondering if a little bit longer suspension would help with the bottoming out on the seat problem. Does anyone have any recommendations?

 

Flat seat..... That will require chopping the frame (DONT!), or rebuilding the seat so the foam is lower in the rear or higher in the front (or some combination thereof).
Bottoming out? I can't quite make out what the shock preload collars are set to, but try adjusting them to increase the preload. How much do you weigh? I'm 215 and set mine at #2 for normal solo riding without any luggage.

As for longer shocks: you will be altering the ride height at the rear without altering the front. This will change the steering geometry. It will also change the angle that the U-joint has to work through while riding. There is very little room to gain without making bad things hapen. There should be no bottoming out at the stock ride height with the spring preload set for your weight (assuming that the shocks are in working condition and the springs are not worn out).

 

sorry i meant that when i have the flat seat on, the tire would bottom out on the seat pan because its level with the top of the frame. though i have the original stock shocks, so i could use new.

 

+1. You didn't cut the frame so there is no change in the shocks spring travel. With or without the fender the tire shouldn't travel high enough to hit the seat pan. Maybe I still don't understand.

Gary H.

 

there is a bracket that goes between the back forks, i did cut that off in order to install the flat pan seat. i have since welded it back on, but it can be removed again.

 

It really needs to be there in order to prevent the rear of the frame from bending inward under compression. You can bracce that ares differently if need be, but you shouldn't just remove it entirely (particularly if you intend to have a useable full-length seat).

 

Hey - I was/am/maybe going to be adding a frame hoop and cutting that bracket at some point to change the seat out. I'm still not sure - been playing with some idea's. Can you show me how you made that seat?

 

yea no problem, sorry for the huge delay... I haven't been on here much recently and haven't been able to work on my bike in some time. here are some photos, hopefully it helps... I plan to redesign the pan a bit and try using yoga mats for the cushion and I've found a friend that is willing to assist with sewing my seat cover so it doesn't look so terrible, i will post pics as soon as i am done. if you have any success please share!

 

if you have a solution to my "tire hitting the seat pan" issue please share that as well!

 

heres the most current pics i have. im planning on straight pipe(cut after h-pipe) since i have a bunch of rust and the mufflers are kinda crap anyways. also going to use pod filters for carbs with a jet kit, and repaint basically everything.

NOTE: if you are planning on removing the engine from the frame you should have 2 sets of strong hands and plenty of patience. it took me a couple of mins just trying to find the right angle to pull it out at...NOT easy.

 

Welcome aboard. Have you read any of the info here regarding pods? If not please do so.Wingnut, jayrodah, half century and myself are currently doing a handlebars swap, I think, on the same model. The master cylinder from a Seca 600 (14mm bore) or a non-turbo Seca 650 (5/8 bore) will sit flat on the bars you have. Hope this helps.

Gary H.

 

Got some more work done today. Got the rear end mocked up. Just need to weld up a few things and it should be ready for paint.

 

It has been a lil bit since ive posted but heres some updates.. Hoping to have it running this weekend. Maybe drivable by next weekend.

The tank i rusted on purpose to give it a rat look. I used paper towel and vinegar to rust specific spots i wanted to be darker. Then wiped on more later for some lighter fill in. I like how it turned out. Looks fairly natural. Now i just hve to clear coat it.

 

I hate to be the one to mention this, but clear-coat won't stop that rust from continuing to work its way through the skin of the tank. A very realistic rust pattern can be simulated with paint. That might be something to keep in the back of your mind for a future project.

 

Hey mate, I've got the same thing happening to my seat, the PO model a new custom seat on, which I love because it rolls with the lines of the tank. However, the custom rear fender he had made up is supported by struts from the rear axle. And this fender often hits the underside of the seat. It must be that my shocks are shot, because I have trouble when the road gets bumpy, so those are my next investment.

 

Progressive 12 series springs and dampers worked really well for me. I love them

http://www.progressivesuspension.com/product/1403/12-series-springs

 

Not cheep but you get what you pay for here for sure

 

Your shocks should hit the end of its stroke before the fender hits the seat. If that's not happening then the PO did not take the full suspension travel into account when he made the fender.

 

hey i have a question about tachometer replacement...i think i found one that will work but am still and little afraid to pull the trigger on it. could someone explain how to wire this up? or point me in the right direction?

the one im looking at is:
http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vinta...lack-electronic-tach-tachometer-25-7000e.html

 

The wiring diagram is in the ad. Pick a coil and wire it as indicated. The XJ uses a wasted-spark ignition system, so that tach will indicate engine RPM correctly.