81 XJ750R-console lights up does not scroll-no start

Hello:

I need some help, the following is a senario on the bike issues what is going on now and what mods have been made.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Current situation: You turn on the key and the console lights up, but does not scroll like it did before.

When you hit the starter switch nothing happens, stop switch off

Brake lights, turn signals, and horn all work.

In the class last semester, my instructor was able to start the bike using a wrench at the side of the bike near the battery.
I went through and checked all the connections and everything seems to be secure.

I have not yet gone through and done an electrical test which is my next step.

This is what we did to the bike.

-removed the original master cylinder and installed a handlebar mounted one.

-changed the handlebars

-installed a new rotor and brake lines.

-The previous owner had removed the kick stand sensor switch.

I'm thinking maybe something needs to be overridden, or taped off due to removal of the brake fluid sensor. I think also that the previous owner may have removed the neutral sensor, cause prior the neutral light does not come on the the bike did turn over when in gear-I found that out the hard way!!!with the bike plopping over in the driveway.

WHen we removed the master cylinder we had to remove the headlight and disconnect all the wiring. Maybe the previous owner had something disconnected and when we put it all back together, we connected something that should not have been connected.

I went through and checked all the wires and matched the right colors and connectors.

WIll probably be replacing that neutral sensor.

Can you provide some guidance, as to maybe what needs to be connected replaced or maybe what may be the issue.

Thanks again for your assistance

 

I believe that the console does not go through it's check until the engine is running, otherwise the headlamp would fail every time as it does not come on until the engine's generated enough voltage to kick on the latching relay for the headlight.

After the motor is running, the CMS will begin it's 'scrolling test'. Just turning the key on should cause all segments of the display to light up (aside from the fuel gauge, which should display the actual fuel level)

Also, I don't think the neutral sensor does much if the clutch switch has been tied off (like some bikes have). If the clutch switch has been wired to be always connected, the bike will think the clutch is in all the time and start regardless of neutral status (This is what the PO did to mine). He also removed the kickstand switch. If your neutral light is not coming on, it could be a wiring issue, a bulb, or a bad switch..

As far as the brake master cylinder switch, it should not be a problem. All the switch does on the original master cylinder is alert you when the reservoir is getting low by turning on the 'BRAKE" LCD segment on the display and flashing the warning light. It won't cause a no-start condition.

When you say "stop switch off", do you mean that you are trying to run the starter with the run switch in the off position? The starter won't operate if the run switch is off. The person who started your bike with a wrench most likely bridged the starter solenoid contacts under the right side cover to manually engage the starter.

 

Thanks for your input.

I know that one statement about the kill switch, stop switch would be confusing. Yes I did make sure that the kill switch is not "on" I guess that is the better term.

Yes-the kill switch was not on or not activate. ThaT is the 1st thing people ask.

 

If you can get the bike started using the same method, by bridging the two large terminals on the starter solenoid, then it's most likely that either the solenoid or your switch is bad, or hooked up improperly. I'd check your switch connections, considering you rebuilt the front end, making sure they're hooked into the right place. You can also test with a voltmeter to see if when you press that switch, you are seeing 12V across the small terminals of the starter solenoid.

I guess I would also check the kill-switch connections to make sure it's working properly.

 

Thanks Chorca: I will try those things.

I thought it was the switch, so I replaced with one from a Virago, it has the same connector and fits good. I was going to replace it anyway, cause the old switch still had the brake handle on it.

I didn't test the old switch or the new switch, since I was going to change it anyway.

I'll try testing to see if there is voltage there.

I'm thinking must be something with the switches up front, cause things were being pulled around, etc. Maybe it is the solenoid though.

I sprayed all the connections with contact cleaner and made sure they fit tight and that all the color wires match.

Thanks again for the suggestions.