Doing the 750 Seca's Forks.. (Rebuild.. now a HOW TO!)

Use Spray Disc Brake Cleaner to Clean ALL the Parts.

Don't forget to Clean-out the Channel on the Lower Chrome Tube that has the Nylon Slider in it.
Replace the Nylon Slider if the Forks were Vibrating.

There are some Suspension Web Sites that explain how to add a Strip of Shim Stock in the Channel ... Behind the Nylon Sliders ... to FINE TUNE the Front End Suspension.
Advanced Suspension Tuning.
I've never done it.

 

thanks for the info guys. what about the anti-dive units as well. was looking to rebuild them too.

 

There's the diagam that Polock posted near the beginning of this thread, but that's about all that i've seen on it. Rebuilding the valve section isn't too bad, but i've only seen one person mention they've been able to get the brake portion apart.. I haven't tried because one of mine has a seized bleeder valve and now a piece of easy-out broken off in it.

 

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invaluable details. my seca needs this surgery performed. debating on whether or not to order after inners cause this is sure a pain job i dont wanna re-do. Also Chorca if ya ever go to Ft Laud on a ride im exactly 1/2 mile off the turnpike on the way,the Lake worth service plaza is 1 mile from my house. i got ya for a beer at the nearest pub. Thanks Bro.

 

I'm in the process of doing this right now, and THIS IS A GREAT WRITE-UP!!!!

If it's so great then why am I still working on it, and why will it take me days to complete? Three words "oil-lock-assembly." If you are going to disassemble seca forks with anti-dive units listen up. As MiCarl wrote about this time last year:

I bottomed out the fork many times, but mostly because the oil seal came out crooked and the fork tube was binding. I'm not sure if the washer was fish food before I started to try to remove the oil seal, lodging bits in the internals and causing the outer bushing to become cockeyed, or if the outer bushing was cockeyed to begin with, and me bottoming out the fork because of the force I needed to push the inner fork tube back down is what did in the little washers. All I know now is I can find 1 and 1/4 of the washer...in five pieces, and have 2 used forks on the way. All this after having no problems taking the first apart (well only a few). If you need more reference to the oil lock assembly, search "seca wavy washer" - it is only "available" as an assembly, if you can find it. I found one for $60 + shipping...but got a pair of used forks for $30.

I would like to add a little more friendly advice. If you don't want to make a mess, use the aluminum oil pans that they sell at walmart. They're big enough to lay all of the parts out. Also, if you are like me and instead of running to the local hardware store to pick up a new piece of schedule 40 1.5" PVC, you found some lying in the corner of the garage, sanded it level, and went to town driving it in to seat the oil seal---put the plastic cap on the fork so you don't let PVC dust, actual dust, spiderwebs, etc fall down the inside of the fork inners. I was soooo close to finishing up when I realized what I was doing and had to back track and clean all the parts out.

 

I heen your help to figure this out. So, I did my forks exactly the way is shown in here. I have been riding for 3 days and my forks are leaking. So I am trying to figure out what I did wrong. The oil seals that I installed in the forks were a little diferent than the original oils seals. The new ones had a flat face on one side and the old ones had a gao in each side. That is the only thing I can think i did wrong.

Can I hear your opinion everybody please?

Carvall

 

Well, you can put them in upside down.

 

Well yes I could but the question is if I will put them apart again should I replace the "new ones" for new ones? in your experience is the side with the flat face goes down or the side with the gap goes down?

 

They are slightly different, but yours should have a flat section around the middle of the top, with a raised flange on the inside, which is slightly higher than the raised lip on the outside. Make any sence?

 

Not exactly sure what you mean. But, I have been looking at pictures and I think they are upside down based on a lot of pictures in google image.

That sucks!! so the flat side of the seal goes down i think.

 

one think I can say is that I will do this fairly quick since everthing is clean and I know the whole procedure!! Not really looking forward to it but i gues you have to live and learn!!!

Thanks for your help. I will let you know what happen.

Carvall

 

If you have fitted them wrongly, then they are toast.
When you fit the new ones make sure you push them in squarely.
& it wouldn't hurt to post a picture of your new seals before you fit them to get a consensus.

 

Look on the INSIDE diameter of the seal..........where the chrome tube slides up-and-down thru the seal. There are raised "lips" in that area that are responsible for "scraping" the oil off the chrome tube as it comes out of the lower tube.

Those "scraper lips" should be pointing down, towards the bottom of the forks (towards the ground).

 

Thanks for your advice! I will do that and let you know what happen.

Carvall

 

OK here are the pics. One side has a flat face and the other one has a gap. what do you think? wich side goes down?

 

The side with the "gap" goes down.

 

That is what I did. Now I need to take them out and investigate what I did wrong.

 

The "Flat Face" is the TOP ... That Rubber Part is the SEAL.

If you have installed them Upside/Down ... you are not likely going to be able to extract the Seal without damaging it.

Measure the Inside Diameter of the Lower Fork Tube and the Outside Diameter of the Fork Tube.

Search Online for Double-Action Fork Seals like used on Moto-Guzzi and your Fork Leak will be cured.