front shocks question

so i ride my bike to work almost everyday to work
today after work i notice there was lots of fluid coming out of my 2 front shocks
checked the seals and they seem fine.
my break were acting funny(hard on the lever) but once i when over some bumps it went away
what can be causing this ?

 

Fork Oil from leaking Fork Seals runs down the Fork Tubes contaminating the Calipers, Pads and Rotors.

 

DANGER.

What Rick described is exactly what is happening; and you need to fix it before it wrecks you.

 

I'm not sure bigfitz was emphatic enough:

No more riding until it's fixed, unless you want to be removed from the gene pool. Yes, it's serious!

 

but i want to know what the problem could be?

 

i seals seem fine?both just started leaking is it the shocks ?

 

m-power1989,

If it's leaking and you have no fork damage it's the seals. Follow Fitz's advice.

Gary

 

most deff the seals, forks "generally" leak out of 3 different spots.

A. the seals (most common)
B. the bleeder valve (to much air pressure in them)
C. the damper bolt (the allen head bolt on the bottom of the forks)

i say "generally" if the fork housing's haven't been damaged by a wreck or someone hitting them with a ball pin hammer

 

Just out of curiosity are you confusing the dust seal with the fork seal?? I've had fork seal leak and the dust seal looks like new, except that the oil seeps out under the dust seal.

 

Maxim-X wrote:

"Just out of curiosity are you confusing the dust seal with the fork seal?? I've had fork seal leak and the dust seal looks like new, except that the oil seeps out under the dust seal.[/quote]

I would say he is; the oil seals are hidden under the dust seals. I had the same issue. It wasn't the dust seals. It was the oil seals. I replaced both.

Gary

 

I think we need to back up a bit further.

Your front "shocks" are the front forks. Yes, they're like giant shock absorbers, except that they come apart and have serviceable items like seals, dust seals and even new springs if necessary or to upgrade. The oil in them needs to be changed every couple of years at the minimum; a lot of old bikes are running around with their original fork oil. Not good.

As pointed out above, the seals that you can see are the dust seals. The fork seals are under them.

It is VERY common for 30 year old forks to need new seals; so common that most of us just do it as a matter of course as soon as the slightest sign of leakage presents itself.

You need to rebuild your forks.

You also need to rebuild your brakes, if they haven't been already. New pads, lines, caliper and master cylinder seals, etc.

Gotta do it.

 

X1 What Fitz said. Got to. There are certain things that "have" to be done and maintained in order for these bikes to "truly" be and stay safe and road worthy. Seems like the more I do the more I'm starting to "see" in this regard. Next up for me...bearings. Steering head, swing arm and tires. The shop I take my tires to for mounting told me the bearings in both tires are alright. I'm not having any problems out of them but I know if I go ahead and change them soon I will know that they are good and can follow the maintenance schedule as far as when and how to check them for wear.

Gary

 

Gary; While the wheel bearings are "ok" the grease in them is 30 years old. You can't get to the bearings to repack them without damaging them. Bearings are cheap. Just replace them.

The old grease doesn't work any more; what I've found from pure raw experience is that if you start running on them again, after about 5K ~ 6K miles "good" original wheel bearings have developed enough play to be a cause for concern. Once the grease is dried out and no longer works, the wear rate accelerates. Failure is imminent.

Photo how-to on the fronts: http://www.xj4ever.com/wheel%20bearing% ... cement.pdf

Photo how-to on the rears; I did it on the slightly more complicated 550, then added additional diagrams and "caution points" for the shaft-driven bikes: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=35134.html

 

agreed, i just did my wheel bearings in the process of overhauling the entire front end of my XJ. Quite a simple process when you have done them enough times. I use "sealed" wheel bearings kit from AllBalls personally. If play develops in your bearings it can become dangerous due to the axle basically tearing them to pieces, then the hub will become damaged

i blew a rear wheel bearing in one of my dirtbikes once and i was about 3 miles into my trails, i was forced to ride back to the truck on nothing but axle to hub, by the time i got back i had litterally no bearings to speak of and the hub was damaged beyond repair.

 

Fitz and Foolber,

Yes, I plan to replace them. Thanks.

Gary

 

ok thanks guy its is the seal and saw a minor crack in them also does the whole fork need to come off to get to the shocks? or do they come of from the bottom (removing tires,breaks) ect ...
also what kind of fluid does it require btw much appreciated guys

 

m-power,

Put your bike in your signature so we will know which model you have. I don't know about every model, but on my 650 I can replace the seals without removing the forks. It includes removing the lower stancions in order to access the seals. Yes, you'll have to remove the front wheel AFTER you place the bike on the centerstand and build up the front end to compensate for removal of the tire. You'll also need to remove the handlebars from the mounting caps; roll a towel around them and lay them down on the gas tank out of the way (You can now access the top caps/circlips). Your Manual should explain all of this. I use Yamalube SAE10 Fork & Shock Oil. I removed my forks when I did mine. Key Note: Replace all the seals while you're there...i.e. drain plug o-rings. Hope this helps.

Gary

 

m-power, the forks ARE the shocks.

While you can get the forks on some models apart as described above, it is easier to do the work if you remove each fork individually, refurb it, then return it to the bike and do the other one.

You will need to remove the wheel, unmount the brake caliper(s,) remove the fender, etc; no matter which way you do it.

Fork oil is up to you; Yamaha recommends 10W, a lot of us use 15W. Use fork oil though.