Interesting Electrical Problem...

So, last summer/fall I started a sizable (for me) overhaul on my maxim. I replaced the clutch friction plates and bolts, changed regular and final gear oil, replaced the air filter, rebuilt and repainted the front master cylinder, rebuilt and repainted the brake caliper, replaced the break lines with stainless steel, and replaced the bulbs in the gauge cluster with LEDs. Much of this was made possible with parts from Chacal, so if you need parts he's your man!

Though I was pretty much able to complete most of this, one problem came up that I did not take the time to resolve before winter. After all work was done I took the bike on a test run. All seemed to be running well, until i noticed something funny about the brake lights and neutral light. The neutral light will only come on when the bike is in gear now, and goes off when it is in neutral. The brake light, though constantly running, does not brighten when either the rear brake pedal or front lever is depressed. Instead of the brake light brightening, the neutral light will brighten. I assume something got crossed, but I'm not exactly sure what. The front brake switch broke when I took it off the master cylinder, but i was able to "fix" it and have it function, but i took it out anyway to rule that out as a factor.

So, to sum that up, I somehow made the neutral light function as the brake light and i'm clueless as to how. Any help would be great! Thanks!

 

Go back to step one......switch the LED cluster lights with regular ones. Don't change anything else; just check the change to LED's to see if that is where the problem lies.

 

Agree with the above as a starting point, and while you're at it also check all earth/ground points as this strange fault could be earth fault related

In my experience strange electrical faults usually have a bad ground at their heart

 

Trying out this solution right now, only have four of the original six light bulbs though for some reason. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks!!!

 

So, tried switching out the new LED bulbs for the old ones with the same result. I did not do anything electrical other than with the gauge cluster, and cannot find any false grounds. Not sure where to go from here.

 

Take a close look at the Birds Nest of connections inside the Headlight Bucket.

It wouldn't be the first time if you left a Plug-in Connection unplugged.

Also, Test the Brake Light Switch from the Perch for Open/Closed Circuit operation.

You'll have to Test all the Circuits for ON & OFF (+12V ~ OFF)
Arm yourself with the right Tool for the job.

http://www.rjtool.com/circuit-sounder-p ... an-72.html

 

Yep. Get inside the headlight shell. Sounds like the diode block is unplugged.

 

Ok, so, i'm new to mechanics and everything to do with working on an engine, but i'm especially new to electrical work. As such, i did not check the fuses until after trying what everyone was telling me and seeing no change. The fuse for the signals had blown. I know, i should have checked it first. My mistake, and one i'll learn from.

There is another problem though that i had forgotten about until starting it up. After disconnecting the gauge cluster i put some chain and cable lube down in the cables and the housing for the tachometer and speedometer. Now, neither one of them is responding correctly. Speed is always off and rpm is always sluggish to respond. It's like they're moving through mud with slow responses. I've taken the cables off to realign them, everything is turning, so i'm not sure why there is such slugishness in the gauges. Any thoughts?

Thanks for everyone's help on my stupid mistake!

 

You answered your own question there I'm afraid, you should NEVER put oil on drive cables (some say put oil on but don't get it near the top but that's rubbish, the winding action drives the oil up like an Archimedes screw anyhow). The only thing I ever put on drive cables is a very thin smear of grease, basically put it on then wipe it off, bare minimum to halt corrosion.

You MAY get away with cleaning out the cables & the clocks will come back on their own but I feel you may have gummed up their mechanisms too far for this if I read you right & you sprayed that sticky gunk chain lube INTO the clocks as well.

Not sure how hard they are to dismantle/clean on this bike but if you're very new to mechanics it may be best to try find someone local to help you through the process since as you found, they are delicate precision instruments (or get replacement clocks for now and KEEP the old ones for when you feel ready to strip them, try the for sale/wanted area on this forum)

Above all, DON'T GET DISHEARTENED BY THIS! We all started somewhere & I'll bet most members have a similar or much worse story to tell... Stick at it & you'll make progress soon, if in doubt don't be afraid to ask we're all here to help :wink:

 

Take-off the Cables.

Hang one so that you can drip solvent into the top-end.
Tie a Plastic Milk Jug on the bottom-end to collect the solvent.
Use a Syringe to apply solvent into the top of the cable sheath.

Twist the Cable as you dribble solvent into the Sheath.
Rinse all of the Chain Lube from the Sheaths.
(Remove the Cables where possible after using the Cable to loosen the Chain Lube from the I.D. of the Sheath)

Once you have the two Sheaths rinsed clean of Chain Lube; use a LIGHT lubricant like Marvel Mystery Oil to lube the Cable.
Pour some of the Marvel Oil into a Bowl.
Put your Thumb and Forefinger in the Oil apply a coating of lube the length of the Cable.

 

If you fancy a shot at un-sticking your instruments, BigFitz just posted a link in another thread when I was asking about swapping speedo faces. It's another of his write-ups that we all love & should have the info you need to get that chain lube out of them 8)

Here http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15303.html

Thanks Fitz!