Progressive springs for the maxim x

Alrighg so Im replacing my last weak link in the Maxim... shocks. I ordered the fork springs today and am looking to do the rear. On ebay there are literally 4 different options with different model numbers for the maxim x.

http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav= ... 0924861661

http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav= ... 1033879040

http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav= ... 0461213651

http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav= ... 0588611360

http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav= ... 0461107255

http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav= ... 0649528754


Im assuming this will also help prevent speed wobble at higher speeds?

Can you guys tell me again what benefits 2-400 will earn me.

 

I'm not sure which springs you need, but I do know that they won't cause or cure a wobble. How are your head bearings?

 

http://www.progressivesuspension.com/pr ... odelID=520

 

And on the wobble, have you upgraded to tapered style steering/head tube bearings?

 

I'd go with the 412's thats what I'm eventually going with on my maxim.


These guy's have the cheapest prices ive seen anywhere on LOTS of stuff, almost 100$ less than bying them right from progressive:

http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/Pro ... lick=35177

^^ I know your bike isn't listed for fitment on the PS site, but its the right model listed on the progressive site, so you're good to go.

 

The 85-86 models come equipped with tapered bearings from the factory. Maybe check to see if the steering head nuts need tightened. How do the tires look...any cupping? Are they out of balance? I've also heard that worn swingarm bushings can cause speed wobble.

As far as the shocks...I went with 412's on mine as well. Very pleased with them!!

 

Could deff check the swingarm bushings, but he just put on fresh rubber iirc.
But on the balance, that could be, were they spin(dynamic) balanced, or just static balanced?

 

Thank you guys for all of the response! When I was referring to "wobble" I should have been more clear. Im reffering to sway caused from moving lanes. Alot of the interstates in Missouri your lane is butter smooth but if you have to switch it can be a drop or raise to merge lanes. I'm assuming this is just road related. I didnt know if the new springs would absorb some of the shock or not?


For those of you that have upgraded what changes did you notice?

 

Is all I have to do is find 412's that are 13in?

so would

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Progressive-Sus ... 24&vxp=mtr

work?

Cheaper and free shipping.

The powersportsuperstore has terrible reviews on numerous forums

 

You need to look at the PART number -

The link you posted are:

Progressive Suspension 412 Series Shock Assembly - 4124222C

You need 4124212C as specified in the picture i posted above as progressive recommends for your bike.

The different part numbers of 412 shocks have different spring rates, as looking at that ebay listing you posted, looks like a stiffer shock as it has a lot of goldwing models listed.

If you ride 2-up most of the time, then go with the 4124218C (HD) model.

And yeah i've seen all sorts of bad things posted about powersports superstore, but after three orders through them with no problems whatsoever, i'm a happy customer.

 

Here's the same set at dennis kirk, only 216, and free shipping over 89$, so probably exactly what it would be with shipping from powersports superstore, if you're still gunshy to order from them.

https://www.denniskirk.com/580858.sku?u ... medium=cse

 

Here's a nice video as well:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=p ... 28lG2wQWpc

 

One of the links you had provided shows what's currently on my X:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400461213651

They do fade a bit after an extended "at speed" ride.

However, the 412's in the 13" length as mentioned previously are a step above (newer design) and even better quality, so I would go with those. Make sure you choose the appropriate spring that fits your load range.

The shocks will not cure the wobble when going over pavement transitions (happens to me too). I believe having gone through all the possible sources that could be the culprit, you'll just have to be prepared for the "lane change" wobble at speed. Part of it has to do with frame deflection.
I also think Radial tires would be a huge improvement and help to alleviate it, but none are sized that would work on our bikes.

P.S. How do you like the Lasertecs now that they're broken in?

 

Good to know. I went ahead an ordered the 412's from the link mtnbike posted for powersports. Its normaly just me and i weigh 190. My fiance weighs like 115. She rides maybe twice a season. So i went with just the regular.


Lasertec are phenominal ill post a review soon. They are great. They stick to the road like crazy. I find mysef comfotably being able to lean harder and corner faster. Ive put close to 1k miles on them and have had them pretty close to top speed. Zero complaints. I actually enjoy seeing how low I can get when doing circular on ramps.

 

Those tires do inspire confidence, so I'm glad you liked our recommendation.
Just remember not to push them too hard when cold, or on a cold/damp surface and you'll keep the shiny side up.

I know new shocks aren't cheap, but they will be a much appreciated upgrade from the stockers. The regular rated spring should work fine for you and your occasional two-up ride.

 

I had a low speed wreck on damp blacktop where i hit oil when braking. Since then i do my best to avoid wet conditioms. When i am on them I ride like a pansy. One time of being dragged on your chest stuck under the bike is enough lol.

 

So the rear ones got here today still waitinv on the front. The instructions it comes with are pretty vauge. Is it just a direct bolt up? They came with some different spacers and things.


Also in the front ive got less than 1k miles on my rebuilt forks. Can i just remove the for cap and spacer. Remove the old spring and put the new ones in?

 

The rear ones are bolt on and go. The fronts you can drop the new springs in and be good to go since you just rebuilt them. Make sure you get the appropriate preload on them and you'll be fine.

 

What do you mean by preload?

 

On the front you can just remove the caps and sleeves after supporting the bike. Swap over the springs, then reassemble. Set your air pressure to adjust the level of firmness that suits you. BTW, are you running 15W fork oil? It seems to compliment the progressive springs as opposed to the 10W.

On the rear, just pick out the spacers that are appropriate bolt them on. Set you preload to the middle and have someone help you check the sag when sitting on it. Shouldn't be any more than an inch or you'll have to firm it up a notch.