Suspension setting for light rider

I'm wondering how to improve the handling on my bike.
I weight 125 to 130 on a good day. Right now the suspension is on the second lightest setting. Any recommendations?
I am also getting some occasional wobbles when cornering or riding faster on bumpy roads. From what I read it might be my old tires or improper inflation but I also was wondering how to check for proper wheel alignment. There doesn't seem to be any convenient place to measure from and the alignment marks seem pretty far spaced.

Cheers -Mike

 

First off, how many miles on the bike? If it has more than about 6000 miles on it, the original rear shocks (which were crap to begin with) are all done. That alone will bounce you all over the road.

Have you changed the fork oil since you got the bike; and if so what weight oil are you running?

How old are the tires, and what are they?

Check for free play in your swingarm bushings, steering head and wheel bearings.

The easiest way to check your wheel alignment on that bike is to very carefully compare the marks in the chain adjusters to the marks on the swingarm and match the relationships exactly. As exactly as you can. Use a small divider or fine ruler if need be. Then spin the rear wheel and watch the chain straight on from behind, where it rides the rear sprocket. If you got it right, the chain will stay centered on the sprocket, with an even gap between the side plates on each side of the chain and the sprocket. If it "walks" to one side or another then it's not straight.

There are "chain alignment sighting" tools you can buy but doing it as described above is simple and works fine if you're careful.

The 550 Seca with rebuilt and improved suspension is one of the most stable and solid handling bikes I've ever owned. As hard as it is for me to admit it, it's better than my legendary Norton especially when it comes to encountering bumps in a corner at speed. It simply laughs off things that upset the Norton.

Wanna make it stick to the road?

Rebuild the front forks, and get a nice new set of fork springs from Progressive Suspension or Works Performance. Use 15W fork oil. There is a vast improvement in fork response over stock, even low-mileage, springs. And it's not expensive (well under $100.)

Replace the rear shocks. I'm running Progressive's 12-series on my Secas and couldn't be happier with them. Again, a vast improvement over stock, even with stock spec springs.

Get some nice grippy tires. Avon AM26 RoadRiders, Bridgestone Battlax BT45s, Dunlop D404s or similar. Run a 4.00-18 or a 120/90-18 rather than the stock 110/90 on the rear, 90/90- or 100/90 is fine up front depending on the tire.

 

Thanks for all the info. I'm on a bit of a budget at the moment so I'll probably just settle for tires. I'm not sure of the brand at the moment but they are 10+ years old though they still have some tread. I'll definitely put the suspension on the list for the first thing to upgrade.
I did notice the bike seems to want to lean to the right, so maybe the back wheel isn't set right. I did site down the chain and it seemed ok, but I'll have to take a second look. I was riding behind the bike when someone else was riding, and it did seem to sit at an angle though I thought this might just be the back fender. any chance something is bent?

 

OLD tires are old tires regardless of remaining tread. My "project" 650R has a brand new set of 15-year old tires on it. I won't be riding it on those tires.

Remember these are tubeless tires. A "flat" due to carcass failure is more likely than not to be an immediate catastrophic event.

Yes, it's possible that something is "bent." Swingarm, forks, fork alignment, swingarm bushings, steering head bearings; any of these can be the root cause of a "goes down the road funny" issue.

Remember something: an old motorcycle is NOT an old car. The stakes are way higher. An equipment failure on the road can lead to catastrophic results. You shouldn't be trying to ride a 30-year old bike with old worn out components; it needs to be made safe and reliable BEFORE you try to ride it. Which also includes things like forks and shock absorbers that actually work.

You really need to read this: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=24010.html

And this: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14581.html

And plan to spend between $600 and $800 in parts and tools (NOT labor) to accomplish a proper, SAFE "recommissioning." Those figures do not include any cosmetics either.

 

here's the right way to align your wheels
http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/sportrydersw ... thod.shtml

 

um... yea... Fitz pretty much said it all. My bike rode like crap, rebuilt forks - upgraded to progressive springs, swingarm and steering head bearings. Great improvement, it rides like a different bike. though still waiting on funds for new rear shocks.

Get new tires.... those are dangerous. end of story....

 

Welcome to the site !!
10+ years ?? Thin ice ??
There's also a rear brake warning, see my sig line.

 

Thanks again, I think I'll take the time to check it over and put off the immediate desire to cruise while its still nice out. I'll get those new tires asap.

What your saying about caring for these bikes reminds me of Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance for those who have read it.

 

Good philosophy. I'm known as the "safety Nazi" around here, and for good reason--- I don't want to see anyone else get dead.

We've lost at least two forum members in bike wrecks over the last couple of years, and one almost for sure because he was riding a bike he shouldn't have been.

I thought my first XJ (the '81) would be a quick fixer-upper so I could ride it to work. It took 5 months before it was safe to ride.

My current DR, the '83, took eleven months (again, "spare" time of course) to get it fully recommissioned and upgraded but it was worth it.

The more time and effort you put into doing it right to begin with, going through the bike and "renewing" everything, the more reliable it will be when you're finished.

My '83 has been just like a new bike for the 11K miles since it went back on the road. Valve clearances, oil changes, spark plugs, a rear tire and adjust the chain occasionally. Just like I would if it were new. Better actually because of the upgraded suspension, brakes and SEAT.

 

And just to echo, when it's riding right..it becomes infinitely more safe. Because you can corner, brake, and control the bike SO MUCH BETTER! You still have to 'be the bunny' and avoid the predatory cagers, but you will be much more able to do that and much less likely to cause your own accident.

Most fatalities are accidents of omission; omission of safety gear, omission of common sense/awareness, or omission of proper maintenance.

Improper inflation will cause wobbles when you let go, weak springs/shocks can cause all sorts of unexpected moves, old tires (GONE ASAP), worn bearings yes, out of balance yes, so check it all over and you will be amazed at the difference! Proper SECA's are a blast to ride.

 

This thread has been sitting for a while, but I was wondering if anyone new a good place to order tires online?

While ordering parts I wanted to see if I needed anything for my transmission. I've noticed some difficulty shifting and a slight oil leak around the pedal. Here's the symptoms I've had so far, I'm not sure if some of this is normal or not: the bike usually won't shift out of neutral from a stop without rolling the bike slightly and shifting into first is pretty
"clunky", there some play in and out in the shaft of the pedal, and a few times recently the bike wouldn't downshift after slowing down to pull into my driveway. The bike has also been dropped on the left side. That's all I've got, thanks for the help! - Mike

 

I just bought these for my wifes xj550 seca...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/370960177003?ss ... 1439.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190889450004?ss ... 1439.l2649

according to their website, they bought the technology and tooling from yokohama.

your shifting issues could be the cause of bits of a chain guide having broken off and are tumbling around in the shifter mechanism. I read a thread the other day about a guy who dropped his bike on its side then had shifting problems that were caused by just such a thing. it could also be a broken spring somewhere in there. if you search the forum for "shifter problems" or the like, you will find several threads on the subject.

CN

 

Ok thanks, I'll give that a search. I broken piece floating around could explain why it was happening intermittently

 

Actually, the shifting issue sounds more like the clutch needing adjustment or attention.

 

I ordered a set of Avon Am26 Roadriders after hearing a lot of good reviews. I decided grip not durability is my priority. I'm excited to see how the bike feels with some good rubber on it.
As far as the shifting goes I'll have to take another look at it when I'm back in town. I hope its just in need of adjustment and not more serious work but either way I'm having fun working on this machine and learning how to fix it up.

 

[quote="cyclenoob]...your shifting issues could be the cause of bits of a chain guide having broken off and are tumbling around in the shifter mechanism.
[/quote]

This is NOT something that affects the 550s. It is common only to the larger-displacement shaft-driven XJs with a solid, fixed, "primary" chain guide.

The movable primary chain tensioner in the 550s is hydraulically operated by oil pressure and not susceptable to breaking apart (it's a completely different design.)

They are different because the 550 has a chain primary drive; the shafties have a gear-driven primary drive, the "primary" chain only runs the jackshaft that has the starter clutch on one end and the alternator on the other. It's not a 'true' primary chain; whereas the one in the 550s is.

 

I bought my D404s from http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/
Love the tires. The site was pretty good, too.

 

Original post includes question about (rear?)suspension.
Any recommendations for lightweights? 29" inseam. Toes touch,heels don't.