17" wheels, aluminum swingarm with monoshock upgrade

I'm very impressed with what you've done, but given all the extra grip you now have, does the original frame have enough stiffnes to cope with it? Appreciate you haven't finished the back end yet.

 

Before undertaking this project, the frame strength and ability to be modified, was researched as much as possible. The XJ550 frame is very similar in design to the FJ600/XJ600 frame. Based on those models differences, in respect to how the rear suspension is set up, I mimicked a similar design to my frame to make it a monoshock.
I'm not an engineer or chassis specialist so there is always an amount of risk in doing this type of modification. The percentage of risk varies based on: common sense
experience
build quality
material quality
in depth research
design adaptability
safety and ridability of finished product
I believe in overbuilding things when possible and practical. So I've incorporated that into the project. I've added gussets and braces where applicable.
Over everything else, safety has been my biggest concern and main focus. Putting something dangerous and sketchy between my legs isn't how I roll.
Here is one of the few frame modifications you can see. There's plenty more that are hidden.

 

It's good you've considered it - I wasn't thinking in terms of it failing, more like flexing and undoing all your hard work.
The modern honda cbr? Is like a modern version of these old bikes, with substantially bigger (therefore stiffer) tube diameters - they must have had a reason?
When I sketched the replacement back end for my hard tail trike I didn't think it would need any more than a triangulated addition. When I was putting all the bits back on I became aware the whole thing was flexing torsionally. It turned out the bike frame it was built on was the culprit. So I added diagonals - behind the headers, under the seat, under the seat rearwards, and at the bottom of the new back end. Using a straight tube held against the frame to detect movement gave me a measure of how effecive each mod was. Anyway, I digress, bikes aren't subject to the twisting forces of a 3 wheeler, unless of course things get really hairy and it turns into a tank slapper.
It will be good to get a report on how this handles when finished, good luck with it.

 

Thank you.
I've accomplished plenty on the project this past week. Gonna put it on the back burner for a week or so. You know it's time for a break when dream about "triangulation" and "torsional flex".
On a side note: my new shock was delivered today. I ended up going with the rear shock off a 2009 R6. I chose it because it has less bulk on the top mounting area than other shocks in regard to the resivoir location. I'll be using the triangular linkage coupling joint it comes with and making "dog bones" to fit.
My offset front sprocket is two weeks out being it's not an off the shelf part. When I get it I will have to drill and tap holes for the retaining clip M6 bolts using a cobalt bit and tap. It's original application is intended for a RZ350 or a Kawasaki H2 which use a castle nut on the threaded spline and a tabbed locking washer to hold it. Being it's hardened steel, it's going to be a small challenge to thread. It's doable. I'm open to alternative securing options....

 

Just don't do this.

 

OMG!
Thats not a bad welding job, if it's any consolation. The thought never crossed my concious mind....
Asleep? Maybe.....

 

When I woke up this morning I had a serious eye problem. I bothered me so much I couldn't see going into work, so after a couple of extra hours of sleep I woke up and was fine. Go figure. So I went out to the shop and had a productive day...
I got the shock mounted up after a small tweak to my mounting bracket

and I was able to sort out the rear brake caliper mount and stay arm.
Now I'm going to give it a break until the final shipment of parts arrives.
Honestly.

 

Everything I had been waiting on showed up this morning.
So.......

I was able to drill and tap the offset sprocket

Finished up the rear suspension


The static height of the rear is about one and a half inches too much so I have another set of links I'll install to adjust it. Everything in the rear suspension cycles nice and smooth. With two on the bike it squats down but not like it will bottom on the fender. A road test is the only way to figure out what's what.
Another couple of weeks should do it.

 

Dang..

 

+1

If the frame tubes were a tad thicker you wouldn't know that it wasn't built that way to begin with.

 

Thank you....

Gauge cluster issue:
The front wheel needed some mill work action to make the rotors line up correctly. The wheel, off a TL1000R, is massive and bulkier in regard to the thickness of the hub. There was plenty of material left after shaving 5mm from each side. It's still thicker than a stock SV650 hub. The rotors on the SV are offset 3mm for rotor alignment. I opted for using the TL1000 rotors with no offset, they are flat.
Anyways, the issue, with the hub width as it is, everything has clearance, it spins correctly, no weird noises BUT there is no room for the speedometer drive unit. It ain't happening, period.
I think my best option is to go with a digital multi type unit. I'm leaning towards the Koso DB01-RN.
It is a complete setup with backlit tach and speedo, gas gauge, blinkers, Hugh beam, oil temp, outside temp, charge rate, trip meter, low gas light as well as date and time. It's about 5 inches long by 2.5 wide. It's the most comprehensive gauge package I've seen which has included matching connectors and hook up accessories. Their install instructions are great and they have live tech support. That's what I'm attracted to, the customer service part.
Based upon online videos, this one abd the Trail The Vapor are well received and the install is straight forward on both.
They both are simple gauges, backlit but no fancy colors or silly flashy shit like that. The price ifor both is similarly close abd isn't too bad at between 135 - 150 depending on the eBay vendor. If I use my 20% eBay coupon before the Labor Day weekend ends my total is $108.00 with free shipping.
I'll be using the rear wheel to activate the speedo pick up and the TCI tach output for the rpm signal.
Does anyone have any experience with digital gauges that might cause me to change my mind?
Other options are welcome as well.....

 

the speedo pickup is a magnetic reed switch, the instructions are going to tell you that the magnet should pass over the end of the pickup, not the middle. they need to be close, don't remember exactly but 5 mm is about right. so far so good, now think about adjusting your chain and how the pickup/ magnet are going to move.
i put those or ones for a bicycle on all my bikes and use the front wheel with the pickup behind the side of the fender and a neodymium magnet
on the rim with auto trim mounting tape

 

⬆️ Polock....
Good call on the chain adjustment/ sensor proximity issue. I didn't think about that until now.
Fortunately, the small sensor is housed in a nicely built bracket with slots to slide the sensor as needed, back and forth and side to side. Koso also has rotor mounting bolts with the magnet built into the end of it, front or rear, which eliminates having to epoxy magnets. Pretty clever item for a clean install Your correct they need to be very close to each other for the sensor triggering off the magnet.
My rear caliper is mounted differently than stock on a SV650 so the original caliper mount is just sitting there. That's where I will mount the sensor bracket and sensor.
The yellow in the image below is my attempt to draw while waiting at a train crossing. Yellow is the sensor bracket

 

Here's the bike with the exhaust installed and rear end at the correct height:
It looks weird to me but it's growing on me. Just pushing it around the shop it turns differently, like right now, immediately.
Unfortunately, I was sent the wrong sized chain so that and a few loose ends, as well as the gauges, will finalize my build I started five or so weeks ago. When the chain arrives next week it's test drive time....

 

I have the chain finally and a official test ride will be this coming weekend.
Clearance of the offset sprocket between the engine side cover is minimal but there is some. There is zero slop in the sprocket so I'm going to roll with it and keep an eye on it.
The speedo unit is en route and that is on my agenda for this coming weekend as well.
If all goes well I can put this project behind me and concentrate on overhauling my FJ600 engine for this winter's long term project.

 

Bike looks great, looking forward to your ride review

 

Looks great! I dig the slightly stretched look.

 

Thanks guys.
It really wasn't that difficult to pull off once all the correct parts were on hand then it came together nicely.
That being said, that it wasn't too hard, it was alot of work tearing everything down to rework the frame correctly.
Truth be told, I live for this stuff.
I don't drive or ride anything that is stock.

 

Working on installing digital speedometer nessitated cutting and splicing wires to incorporate the gauges plug in connector. Not my favorite thing to mess with and it can't be half assed done. When building my wire wire harness awhile ago it was advantageous to get the correct tools and connections for a quality job.
I don't care for splicing wires, it's another connection or weak point in a harness, which can cause gremlins down the road.
I found these spiffy butt connectors which ease my splicing fears all together. They have adhesive shrink wrap to seal out moisture as well as a solder ring that both wires are pass through. Heat everything up with a heat gun and you have a solid splice that's weather proof and strong . I go an extra step and cover the connection with black adhesive shrink wrap so it doesn't stick out.
They are available from Wirefy and the quality of the connectors they sell is superior to anything else,I've seen. They sell for 100 for $25.00. Not cheap but they are MIL Spec rated.

 

Yup those things are great, I use em when doing work on boats.