Colossal mistake. HELP!

I was using the zip tie method to hold the cylinder head so I could fish out the shims and the end of the zip tie snapped inside. It lodged itself in such away where the crankshaft is now stuck. I royally @!# up. Did I just kill my engine?

 

Do you have a borescope so you can see inside the cylinder in fell into. On second thought you probably need to remove the cylinder head to get it out. I don't think your engine is ruined. If you turn the crankshaft in the opposite direction does it move or is it not turning clockwise or anticlockwise? Joshua check the bike is in neutral. It probably is but just to make sure. Don't move the crank much and don't spin it with the starter motor. First thing is to find out why crank won't turn. Because it fell into the cylinder it is either between the piston and cylinder bore (unlikely l think) or more likely on top of the piston and getting trapped between a valve head and piston near top dead centre. Just be careful you don't want valve damage. Or is it snapped and stuck in between the valve and it's seat?

 

A strong flashlight and a 3 finger pick up toool or long thin screw driver with double back tape on end to try snagging it , take a deep breath grass hopper all is not lost , judging from some of your posts you have been jumping around please go slow on some of this read and read again on how to do some of the things to do . Pulling the head is a last resort ,if the zip tie is all plastic at worst starting bike would melt it really doubt it would do much if and damage. Good luck

 

Rotate the engine the opposite way you were turning it to bring the piston down a bit. Then blow compresses air in with a long blow gun through the spark plug hole. That might free up the broken piece and blow it out.
The zip tie is most likely stuck in the valve still. That will make things more difficult as you will need to open the valve to get it out.

 

This is why I've never tried to use the zip tie method...I bought some cheap zip ties once, they snap easily.

I use the shim tool, but next time I may try to 12g wire method. Wire wouldn't snap off as easily.

 

Well, it's official. I really stepped into it. The engine has seized. I am unable to turn the crank shaft a full revolution in either direction. I tried vacuuming it out, blowing it out the exhaust and while turning it the little piece must have lodged in there pretty good. I think the top end has to come off. So, I could direct my energy learning how to do that or I can direct my energy into finding a unique way to get that little piece out. I think I'm going to go with taking the top end off. If you have any vids you could direct me to that would be much appreciated. Thanks.

 

Do you have any idea where exactly the zip tie is in the engine? When the four camshaft cover bolt fixings were stripped did you check no metal swarf fell down the cam tunnel? It may not be the plastic zip tie stopping the crank rotating? A bit of metal off the damaged parts could be lodged between the cam chain and the guides which would interfere with crankshaft rotation. As I said before a borescope would allow you to look into the engine better and you can get a cheap one with a camera on one end of the cable and a USB connection on the other you can connect to a computer. Joshua check all possibilities out as much as you can before you take the head off the motor.

 

I'll check the cams again. Where would I buy the camera?

 

I bought mine on Amazon, here is a picture.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A6K4DCK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the one I bought, you should be able to get a similar one. You can also get one you connect to your mobile phone.

Your engine is not seized it is mechanically locked by an obstruction. Running without oil causes engine seizures.

 

this should be your theme song

 

also make sure the camera head will fit into the spark plug hole. I bought one years ago but it's too big of a diameter to fit

as an example https://www.amazon.com/DEPSTECH-Endoscope-Waterproof-Inspection-Adjustable/dp/B0749BQG1B says it's camera end is 8.5mm. That should fit ok and is only $20, but look around yourself as I don't own this model, I just show it as an example

 

Harbor freight has 2 different sizes cheap

 

I forgot about them l heard they sell tools at reasonable prices.

 

I have one like this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof...h=item5d63c93a62:g:k-UAAOSwq19XDSQ1:rk:7:pf:0

above ships from california so it would be a quick delivery to you

works on pc or phone . I use mine with a lap top


I agree that you have a chunk of cam cap on the lower sprocket of the timing chain.

 

Is the bike in gear? That is more likely why the engine won't spin all the way around.
That, or (as mentioned) part of a cam cap is still in there.

The zip tie is plastic. It'll melt and get blown out the exhaust valve once the engine is running.

 

Right????

 

Well, the good news is I have a motorcycle mechanic in the family and he's driving in from Florida to give his dumb nephew a hand. Thank god. We're just going to pull the head off and figure this out. Since I'm doing this, a friend of mine said it might be worth my while to resurface the cylinders and the valves. One of my valves was so tight I couldn't even get a 0.04mm feeler gauge in there. This whole thing might be a blessing in disquise. What do you guys think? Should I resurface everything in there?

 

Do no work without measuring things, and removing the head should be the last course of action you take after making sure that it has to come off to rectify the problem.
Your tight valve is no reason to do a valve job; it's just a sign that nobody ever bothered to do the required valve clearnace checks before you bought the bike (very common).

Honing the cylinder bores should only be done if compression is low, oil is being burned, or you have good reason to need to open the engine up (AND see that the bores need to be honed. Do no work without measuring).

 

Valves were tight on my XJ 900f when l got it. I assumed the PO had not serviced the bike and l did a complete service including carbutettor strip and rebuild. After that it ran very well and the compression check results were fine so there was no need to dismantle the motor.