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17" wheels, aluminum swingarm with monoshock upgrade

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by LarryMc, Jul 19, 2018.

  1. LarryMc

    LarryMc Active Member

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    Family commitments temporarily sidetracked wrenching on the bike today. Sunday Seahawks games are an all-you-eat family gathering that I'm completely committed to.
    The bonus is we won over the Cowboys.....
     
  2. LarryMc

    LarryMc Active Member

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    Been swamped with my work schedule having to fill in for those taking vacation.
    I'm supposed to be semi retired working three days a week but that means ziltch when we are short on bodies.
    ___________________________________________

    I purchased new rearset foot controls as shown in one of my other posts here. I've made up new mounting plates for them, no problem but the rear m/c will have to be relocated and I'm switching over to a hydraulic rear brake light switch to make things simple and clean. The shift linkage rod will also be redone to fit. Relocating the m/c will involve partially disassembling things to weld a bracket where needed. Back pedaling is common with projects like this. I deal with it.
    Screenshot_20180919-191104_eBay.jpg
    Upon beginning to install the digital gauge cluster, which is only 6" x 3", the upper part of the headlight bucket became much more noticeable. The bucket has a huge gaping wire run opening for powering the stock gauges. It looked like ass so it had to go. I chose a Lucas or British style replacement bucket which is a little deeper that the stock one.
    That showed up today in the mail.
    Screenshot_20181002-193515_eBay.jpg
    I've also decided to change out the front fender to one from a 2015 YZF R1. It's a lot less street fighter looking in style and will compliment the overall look of the bike better. Screenshot_20181002-193321_eBay.jpg I just need a couple days to install all these goodies before my initial test ride. I'm booked the next two Saturdays for work, totaling six work days, which reflects negatively on the possibility of addressing these items.
    Shit.....
     
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2018
  3. LarryMc

    LarryMc Active Member

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    The way my work schedule plays out for the month of October it realistically will be the the end of the month or later before I can complete everything.
    Luckily I have an Alaska fishing trip in another week to break the work cycle up for 4 days.
    ----------------------------------------------------------------
    ON THE BIKE:
    • I was able to spend several hours today finishing up installing the rear sets and moving the rear brake master cylinder. By purchasing a 3x3 welding blanket I was able to weld some threaded standoffs onto the frame without a bunch of disassemblely like I feared. Everything lined up great and functions correctly. I'll be getting rid of the shift linkage with the offset bend and making up a straight linkage rod next to check this off as completed.
    • The new headlight bucket was also installed after lowering and flipping the brackets so they point out correctly or differently, depending how you look at it. The bucket fits the bike nicely in profile and dimensionally. There is no room gained for stuffing wires even though the shell looks larger. Weird.
    • A mount for the new gauge assembly was made and painted then fitted. It's very simple in design and works.
    When I get some time to mess with the bike next, I hope to wire in the new digital gauge set up.
    The new front fender should be delivered by the third week of the month which is a quick install.
    Prior to installing the fender, I'd like to go over everything for correct adjustments and double check all fasteners for torque specifications (I'm OCD) then test ride this thing, rain or shine.
    I'll add some pictures of what I have changed or completed soon.
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2018
  4. LarryMc

    LarryMc Active Member

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    This is the clearance between the side of the rear tire and the chain. 5mm clearance is what I measured it at. Anything less would be a concern.
    View from rear:
    20181013_120723.jpg
    View from above:
    20181013_120656.jpg
    This is the new front fender being mocked up. I'm putting together bracketery for the different fastener spacing and holding clips for the brake lines. Attachment points will have sleeved mounting grommets and metric flange bolt fasteners.
    20181013_120612.jpg
    The new rearset controls on new mounting plates with relocated master cylinder. Round 1 1/4" threaded steel stand offs were welded accordingly for mounting points and worked great.
    20181013_120526.jpg 20181013_120426.jpg
    The different headlight bucket will need a different set of mounting brackets which I'll make myself. I don't like the huge gap between the steering neck and the back of the light shell when its mounted up. The shape of the light housing works for me and is a nice change.
    The test ride is still pending once the loose ends are buttoned up.
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2018
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  5. LarryMc

    LarryMc Active Member

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    While doing my regular scan of eBay for good finds I came across a sweet deal on front and rear calipers off a 2015 CBR650F. There is less than 4000 miles on them so they shouldn't need any attention for correct operation. These are a definitely a few steps up from the sketchy Korean calipers that came with my front end setup. The forks are great, the calipers not so much. I'll share how I mount the fronts up when I get there. I highly doubt these will be plug and play but from my research, prior to purchasing them, the bolt hole spacing is the same.
    The rear caliper will be mounted to the SV650 caliper bracket and will be mounted above the swingarm instead of underneath like it is currently. I see having to get a shorter braided hose for the rear but that should be the only hurdle on the rear brakes.
    Not a real difficult addition to my build but they will improve the brake system operation and look cool as well.
    Screenshot_20181031-160504_eBay.jpg Screenshot_20181031-161901_Gallery.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2018
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  6. LarryMc

    LarryMc Active Member

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    Got some odds and ends squared away today. 20181104_124529.jpg Got the shift linkage redone
    20181104_124653.jpg
    Got new mounts made for front fender
    20181104_124335.jpg
    New headlight brackets made and installed
    20181104_124358.jpg
    Finished wiring up the speedo
    20181104_124449.jpg
    Test fitted the new rear caliper set up. I installed the speedo sensor below the caliper which worked out great. The bracket has a set screw for adjustment of the active type speed sensor.

    Next up:
    - install new front calipers
    -install new rear brake line
    - calibrate speedometer gauge
    - test it out (finally, huh?)
     

    Attached Files:

  7. xHondaHack

    xHondaHack Active Member Premium Member

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    Really like the headlight and front fender now.

    And just a safety tip for you:
    Reposition the sidestand spring lever that is supposed to push in on the sidestand switch when it's down.
    At this point whether it's up or down, the relay thinks it's up.

    Tony
     
  8. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    +1.
    See the tab on the top of the silver link that's between the spring and the frame post?
    Flip it to face down.
    The tab looks worn, so a bit of brazing and the application of a file will set it back to new.
     
  9. LarryMc

    LarryMc Active Member

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    I appreciate that you both are concerned with my safety switch being sketchy. When I rewired the bike for the previous owner, it was decided to mimic the European version wiring harness for the XJ550. That version doesn't use a side stand switch and a couple other safety related relays. It wasn't my call because, at the time of building the harness, the bike wasn't mine. I would have kept the safety features, personally.
    The side stand switch in the picture has no function. Now that something has been mentioned about it, I guess the right thing to do is remove it and that tab. Done deal.
    Fortunately, I'm the only one who will be riding the bike. I have other bikes that are older without the side stand or clutch safety features so I've became accustomed to operating without that function. I ride often so circumventing the safety options is my standard method of operating any bike for the most part.
    I'm not sure if thats good thing or not but that's how I roll, literally.
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2018
  10. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    no safety interlocks on mine either. the second handle on my push mower is wire tied back and the seat switch on my lawn tractor is defeated to. and no guard on the table saw.
    i'm a ticking time bomb :)
     
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  11. LarryMc

    LarryMc Active Member

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    o_O
    OMG!
    I noticing a reckless pattern here.
    Juggling running chainsaws will be next....
     
  12. LarryMc

    LarryMc Active Member

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    I finally have all the goodies to finish up any and, hopefully, all the loose ends.
    The road test will determine if I'm truly finished or not.
    Fingers crossed.
    I fabricated some adapter brackets for the front calipers this past weekend that are being powder coated currently. To get them just right pretty much took the better part of an afternoon but they had to be right to function correctly and safely. I'll shoot some pictures of them before and after installing.
    The new braided rear brake line was recieved and installed. I used an M6 nutsert or rivnut to secure the line to the swingarm with a small bracket and rubber sleeve. Its located next to the widest spot of the tire. After installing new rear pads, I bled the rear brake system out with my homemade mini vacuum pump/salsa jar brake bleeder contraption which supriseingly works great for how crude it is in design. Under 2 minutes of bleeding yielded a nice firm feel to the pedal. Simple homemade tools that work better than store bought tools rule...
    The upcoming Thanksgiving break from work should provide the needed time to complete everything between some serious couch lounging and food comas
     
  13. 50gary

    50gary Active Member

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    It look's like the axle nut is only half way on the axle bolt? Nice brake set up.
    Cheers, 50gary
     
  14. LarryMc

    LarryMc Active Member

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    ⤴️ Sharp eye....
    The image was taken during a "test fit". That rear wheel has been off and on that bike more times than I want to count during this modification. The rear axle bolt isn't tighten down all the way in the picture.
    My second to last item on my project check list is to go over all fasteners to check for correct torque values and proper fitment.
    The very last item is the test ride (which is long overdue)...
    I do appreciate you stepping up and saying something. Thanks for having my back!
     
  15. LarryMc

    LarryMc Active Member

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    Here's the brake caliper adapter brackets I put together to adapt the front Nissin calipers I picked up. They are fitted with metric 10.9 grade bolts and a dab of blue thread locker. 20181118_103850.jpg 20181118_103857.jpg
    Once again, my homemade brake bleeder did the trick on purging out all the air in the system. Less than 5 minutes on a dry system, done, rock hard brake lever with no dragging on the rotors. 20181118_183027.jpg
    In addition, I did away with the side stand switch, its gone. That leaves a blank void where it went so I did a diagonal line cut down to just before the kickstand lower stop, dressed it up, reshot some paint and that works for me. As luck would have it, while operating the side stand by hand several times the outer torsion spring decided to loose its springiness. It snapped. I ordered two new torsion springs for the kickstand and made a new link tab to position them correctly.
    The ride height for the bike has changed significantly which leaves the kickstand slightly on the long side. The bike now sits almost straight up and down wanting to tip if allowed to. Ain't happening so I'll shorten it.
    This will not prevent me from road testing the bike when the time comes shortly.
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2018
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  16. LarryMc

    LarryMc Active Member

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    I spent an hour calibrating the digital speedometer/tachometer today. Intially, I got no feedback for the tachometer signal. A short phone call to customer service at KOSO North America pointed me in the right direction. Now all the indicator lights function as they should including the fuel tank gauge. The fine tuning of the speedo will happen while riding the bike but it's in the ballpark range to work. I'll test it for accurate results via my phone's GPS.
     
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2018
  17. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    the tach on mine didn't work at first, a 1meg ohm resistor in series fixed it. i think it's a common problem with direct hookup to the coils ?
    if you did the, push the bike and measure the marks on the floor thing, i bet your closer than the gps.
     
  18. LarryMc

    LarryMc Active Member

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    Interesting, the guy I spoke to with customer service suggested that I hook into the pick up coil signal wire and adjust the pulse rate in the set up menu. I had it going to the ignition coil first and got nothing. I haven't acted on his suggestion yet but with your advice I have another option. I'll try your 1 megaohm resistor in series suggestion gladly.
    Do you recall the pulse rate at which to set the gauge at to recieve at good signal?
    Smaller esistors, like you mentioned,usually have a wattage rating associated with them, i.e. 1/4 watt, 1/2 watt etc. Do you recall the rating number or does that not matter?
    Thanks for the good information.....
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2018
  19. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    i don't think i'd use the pickup coil wire, it might interfere with the signal that the TCI needs to work with.
    the best way to find that resistor size would be with a potentiometer and turn it till you get a good reading, then read it and replace it with a resistor that's close. my old Meanwell and your new one might be different. you want the - side of the coil, the gray wire, the wire that goes back to the TCI.
    1rev=1pulse, doesn't sound right but i'm 90% sure that's what i'm using. if that's wrong you get crazy high/low rpm's
    wattage won't matter, there's no power there, use whatever is handy
     
  20. LarryMc

    LarryMc Active Member

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    Thanks for responding so promptly. I plan on addressing this issue tomorrow and hopefully a few other items also.
    All the suggestions you've mentioned make sense perfectly to me.
    Much appreciated!
     

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