1985 Maxim XJ700 winter paint, Polish and tune.

So I've got my XJ in the ol' work shed for the winter, throwing som insulation and a heater in there.
I will be asking questions, tech tips, and specs as I go.
I'll also post some pictures of results etc.
Hope you all enjoy, first pick this weekend when I start the tear down !

 

First tech question.... Calling all members!
My 4:1 Crome exhaust is hella rusty.... Is there any way to restore it?
If not what are my options? Can I paint over chrome?

 

If you sandblast the pipe the paint will stick.
I had the 4 header pipes powder coated on my Seca after sandblasting.
Almost 20 years ago still looks the same. It was a special powder for high temperatures

 

Is powder coating expensive? I havent checked to see if anyone locally does it, might have to send it out of town.
Can they powder coat it chrome? Or am i stuck with choosing a colour?
I know true chroming is a different process, im just not familiar with powder coating.

 

Next question... Speaking of powder coating, is the frame powder coated from the factory or painted?
If i want to touch up the rusty spots should i just dab on some tremclad, or do you guys have a better method?
Thanks in advance!

 

You can have good results just touching the frame with Tremclad and a brush.

I believe the original frame is just paint with lots of hardener in it.
I’m planning to get some chrome powder coating done on my Turbo project, brake plate, brake lever, grab handles, not sure what else yet. It’s not as nice as real electroplating but a lot cheaper.
As to chrome powder coating your pipe you’d have to ask the powder coaters if they offer that for high temperature applications.
I’ve used a commercial powder coater here in Waterloo and he was cheap, I sandblasted and masked the parts first.
I’ve also used a smaller guy who caters to bikes and cars, he was more money. I’d ask around, might be someone in Thunder Bay doing it.

 

Thanks a lot Simmy, exactly the straight foreward answer i needed.
Found There is a place here that powdercoats, ill have to ask about the exhaust as i get it its a special coating for heat.
Ill keep posted

 

The same guy who did my exhaust pipes did the water cooled cylinder block on my Seca. When I picked it up it was a beautiful gloss black. Once it saw service it became wrinkled like the finish Harley use. I was not happy but learned to like it.

 

Here she is is all her glory... Dusty dirty and cold LOL

 

Well simmy, the powdercoat guy in town cant do my exhaust... And the only high heat he can do is that crinkle black you got on your cylinder... Good for 500 degrees F.... Recommended Jet Coat out of arizona... You got someone in Ontario who did your pipes? Id be right pumped to know who.
Anyhow, for now they may just go VHT black... Im considering silver.... Maybe old school asbestos wrap... Idfk?

 

They were called Cambridge Powdercoating.
It was 20 years ago and I see they’re no longer around. My exhaust pipes are a smooth finish but not glossy. I’m going to be doing more for my current project so I’ll ask.

 

That took an hour or so more parts missing aaaand 2 1/2 hrs later... Less parts n less dirt lol!

 

Better first pucture

 

Got clutch out without too much difficulty. Nice feature, doesnt drain the oil on the side stand!
A few steel plates appear to have "hot spots" some fibre discs the tabs look sanded down, assume because there is almost no material left on discs, they were rubbing?
This is the worst plate #5 can i use this? Or should i order a few new ones?
These spots were only on the "flat side" of the plates, not both sides.
Last question, the "flat" or machined side of the plates were facing out, with the more beveled side in, is this correct?

 

If some are worn, they're all worn. If you need some new plates/discs..... do them all at the same time. Otherwise you'll be going in there a lot til they're all done anyway

 

I have a full set of new discs, theyre bathing in oil under the bike in the first pic.
Im just curious about those wierd little "hot spots" on a few of the metal plates, can i use em or are they trash.
My instinct says there straight and not warped so ok to use, just not 100% if its a good idea.
Would rather not spend another $50 and wait a week if they wont affect performance. (Have te time not the dough lol)

 

Well---my PERSONAL approach.....if I can see that something still has life in it, I'll re-use it, knowing that I will end up having to do the just at a future undetermined yet probably inevitable date.

BUT--- my PROFESSIONAL approach.....if I am working on someone else's bike----do it right the first time so:
1. It doesn't come back because it was done right, and doesn't NEED to come back
2. Owner is happy because of #1

It may cost a bit more to do it all at the same time, but in the long run it costs waaaaaaaaay less,

 

Well, because the plates were going to take a while, and i got no cash to buy em, i put em back in.
Im sure it will work fine with brand new discs.
Ooooh fancy

 

O.K. I give... Tried to load information overload hour to find this out but my sh***y ipad keeps crashing....
Theres a raised mark on the clutch cover and a notch on the lever, does this line up with lever at rest,or just contacting?
Judging by the lever angle it appears this is the contact point. Then set free play etc...
Thanks in advance.

 

The marks should line up when the freeplay is removed by pushing the lever towards the front by hand.

Not sure if you read this thread, but it addresses in pretty good detail evaluating parts such as steel plates, clutch basket, etc.

https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/clutches-101-part-1-the-400-550-600s-with-pics.29541/