Too Much Oil?

Ok I know the one's you're talking about now. They are not overflow tubes. They are vents. They can't act as overflow because they exit above the hight of the bottom of the carb throats.

 

over filled carbs will leak out those 2 holes you see if the carb throat and possibly out of the slide needle at least in mikuni carbs

 

Yes.
You do have new throttle shaft seals seals, yes?

 

1. You can't replace the trhrottle-shaft seals unless you break the rack.

2. The fuel/oil won't flood the airbox from the overflow tubes. The airbox floods as gas leaks past the fuel valve and seeps into the crankcase.....the crankcase fills up and overflows back into the airbox via the crankcase vent tube that goes from the shifter cover up to the airbox.

3. The carb overflow tubes are for of the bike tips over too far.

Dave

 

If your a bike noob as you claim (no shame I'm still learning on my first bike) Best advice I can give is start with the simple issues first, don't let others scare you into thinking its the worst case scenario

I had a similar issue with my bike when I let it sit for a little bit. One thing I think most bike newbs do without realizing it is leaving their petcock in the PRI position which can lead to gas overflow in the carbs. it could be that simple..

When I had gas overflow it was definitely moving into the cylinders, sitting there and eventually washing into my crankcase (into the oil) it added to the volume of oil when the gas mixed with it and I was getting a gas/oil mix in my airbox when I revved the engine.

long story short the rubber tips on the float needles of three of my carbs had rings on them, meaning the point where they meet with the float needle seat wasn't sealing well anymore. This was letting gas pass fairly easily and overflowing and finding its way to the crankcase

I had set my carbs correctly once then realized my float needle issue, had a few whiskey drinks while replacing my bad needles and had to reset the floats because of the new needles.
When I did this I read the 3mm +/- 1mm in my shop manual and misunderstood it as well, setting my floats close to 1.5mm

The non mechanic way of understanding what that means set your floats between 2mm and 4mm, aim for three and try to keep them closer to eachother than not for better results


My advice is to start with the simplest problems first.

I would check it in this order:
Petcock position (should not be in PRI position)
Float needle tips (look for rings worn into the rubber)
Set float heights (after replacing needles)

Change the oil once you find all the issues and think you fixed the gas overflow, to ensure you get all the gas/oil out of the crank case, take the filter AND the drain screw directly below it out (it helps if you the engine is warm, I wouldn't advise running it) and hand crank the engine by removing the side cover which will push the oil still in the system out, otherwise you'll still smell gas in your oil and it'll thin out the new oil you put in.

 

Sooo, these are vent hoses that should just hang down? They don't connect to any nipple or something?

 

Correct.
It's better to ask these questions in your own thread.