New bars crank no start

Hey all this is my first post. I've been reading along for a month or so now I figured it was time to dive in. I have an 82 xj650 maxim and I just put new bars on last night. When I finished I turned the key and pushed the start button. All the lights were good and it cranks over but it wouldnt fire. My question is does the kill switch ground effect it from firing? If I turn the kill switch to off the bike won't crank at all...it was just running 2 days ago before I took the bars off. I havnt put much time into looking yet as I'm always working till 8pm and dnt have a garage with lights to work after hours.

 

I believe the starter button requires a good ground through the handle bars to work.
You might need to scuff up the the connection point of the starter button area

 

The starter button works and the kill switch works. The bike cranks over no problem. I just put a new battery in it last week. It just wont fire.

 

if starter button works you have ground.
check any connectors you disconnected or may have disturbed from control
kill/run switch has no ground.

check your new battery for voltage drop when cranking. hook meter to battery see what voltage drops to. you need 10 volts or higher for tci to spark.
new batteries can be bad.

 

Check for spark. Remove one plug and rest it on the head . Crank the engine over and look for spark.

 

test for 12 volts at tci red/white wire and at ignition coils

kill/run switch supplies voltage to tci and starter and when off starter should not crank.

when you turn on key starter cutoff relay should click and sidestand relay should click.

pull out side stand relay this will over ride side stand switch but it does sound like it is working properly

location 1982-84 Sidestand (kickstand) relay (blue): frame bracket outbound of LH frame tube, just behind the left ignition coil.

 

this link ids relays and locations
The Ultimate Relay, Switch, Sensor, and Diodes Guide

got gas in tank? switch to reserve

 

Ok thanks guys I will get back to you ...the fuel switch was left in primary. It started yesterday before I put the new bars on hopefully it's something simple

 

painted bars are the culprit most times but your starter button makes starter crank so it is not that. look for pulled wires at connectors

 

That's what I figured...also forgot to mention I did have the bike up on the center stand... but I'm pretty sure I've had it running on the stand before. First thing I will do is check for spark

 

So here's an update. I tested the spark on both outside plugs and there is spark but its next to nothing and it isnt even sparking every cycle. Could this be the poor ground in the kill switch. Like I said if I turn the kill switch off no crank what's so ever

 

Also after several seconds of cranking with the choke the plugs were wet so it's getting fuel but some how between changing the handlebars the spark is weak...I also never saw what the spark looked like when it was running, I'm no amateur when it comes to this sorta thing. The bike started fine for 2 days after i put the battery in. Theres no way it's just a coincidence

 

do the voltage drop test.
also bike has a weak spark to start with.

the only things that ground through the bars are horn and starter button some have a direct wired ground check control see if black wire from control has a mating ground in the main harness connector.

 

So I double checked the battery voltage and it wasnt steong enough ..i hooked my car to the battery and 5 strokes later she fired. Now I gotta deal with all this extra cable. After I took her for a little spin It felt like the front brake was almost dragging slightly...when I let off the gas to shift the bike slows down alot!. Could a tight bend in the runner line cause enough pressure to squeeze the caliper a bit

 

Yes or not fully releasing. Address this before riding again as this is a safety concern

 

+1
The original brake system was supposed to be rebuilt every 4 years.
Modern upgrades increase the time between rebuilds. I would bet that the date codes on the brake lines are from when the bike was still in the factory.

 

Thank you guys ..this seems like an perfect time for a little upgrade ..ss line rotor and pads