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Airbox to Carb Boots

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by firebane, Jun 9, 2019.

  1. firebane

    firebane Active Member

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    Did an exhausting amount of searching on this but nothing really helps.

    My bike came with pods and so I decided to pickup an airbox and get it installed. The first challenge was getting the box installed but after removing the boots on the head, boots on the airbox, and the starter it slid in.

    Re-installed the carbs and then went to install the airbox boots and either I have a wrong part somewhere or there has to be a different method.

    I've read people saying install carbs then put the boots onto the carb and slide them into the airbox... well I don't have the room for that. The airbox is still bolted in and I've heard people say undo the site bolt and the top bolt to slide it back, but its back about as far as it can go already. Mind you I haven't tried this but with the room I have... I still don't feel like they would go.

    Do I have to do the push the airbox boots into the airbox and then pull them out onto the carbs trick?

    Yes I also know my carb boots are ripped badly.. but they haven't ripped to the inside yet... and I've looked into replacements.. but at over $400 they will wait. :D

    Here are a couple of pictures to mull over...

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  2. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    1. Remove the carbs.
    2. Install the airbox boots from the front of the airbox, and then push them backwards into the airbox.
    2. Loosen the airbox mounting bolts and push the airbox back as far to the rear as there is room to.
    3. Install the carbs.
    5. Lay the boot clamps onto the carb throats so they just rest there loosley.
    6. Starting at the inner airbox boots, use your fingers and a dull phillips head screwdriver to move the airbox boots into position as you work them onto the carb throats (this takes a bit of practice, so be patient). It may be helpful to work from inside of the airbox with one hand to get the boots forward enough to grab them with your other hand, but with practice that won't be necessary.
    7. Once all of the boots are in place push the airbox as far forward as there is room to and tighten the mounting bolts (starting with the top bolt at the front of the airbox).
    8. Once the airbox is bolted down you can tighten the boot clamps.
     
  3. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Another method that requires a bit more work, but may be easier for you is to remove the battery, remove the battery box, and unbolt the airbox. With teh battery box out of the way there should be enough room to angle the airbox so you can "roll" the boots on the carbs with them already installed into the airbox properly.

    I have not tried that method, but removing the battery box (and starter motor) is how the airbox is removed/installed from/in the frame without removing the engine, so there hould be plenty of room to install the boots.

    With practice removing and installing the carbs will only take you 30 minutes (round trip, starting with a fully assembled bike).
     
  4. firebane

    firebane Active Member

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    Yah I will try the push in method. I hadn't tried it yet as my concern is that I wonder if the clamp down area in the boots will line up with the carb...

    Yah taking out the starter is how I got it in... Still a good squeeze lol.

    We shall see..
     
  5. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    you might be able to get the boots in from the air filter side, get them nice and warm.
    i don't know if all the boots are the same but all the ones i've seen have a oval mark at the top on the carb side in the clamp area.
    a real stiff piece of wire or thin rod with a 90 bent 1/2 inch from the end helps flip the boot over the lip of the carb. coat hangers aren't stiff enough.
    this might be the biggest PIA there is on these bikes, it's all downhill from here :)
     
  6. Chitwood

    Chitwood Well-Known Member

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    Agreed. I can have the carbs out and back on my 650 in pretty short order after having done it a time or two. My 750 however, that was easily and hours worth of cussing before I got them installed. Best I could tell is the airbox is angled on the 650 and not on the 750. With the 650 I push them back into the airbox and off the carbs, remove carbs, then when putting them back on I pull them out of the airbox, install the carbs and then am able to "slide" them up the face of the airbox and into position without too much trouble. The 750 airbox face is flat and that method did not work very well for me. Loosening the airbox bolts, sliding it as far back as I could with some careful manipulation i finally got them all back on. I was sure glad that it seems to run decent and I dont want to repeat that venture any time too soon.
     
  7. firebane

    firebane Active Member

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    Well I tried everything.. dunked them in boiling hot water and no matter what I try.. they just won't go. Airbox is as loose as it can go.. and as far back as possible. I put a small piece of wood under the carbs to let them sit up a bit more and be more angle friendly as well.

    I tried squishing through the gap.. no go
    I tried from inside out.. no go

    I think these boots are perhaps just too old and hard and don't allow enough flex as they seem to bottom out on the carb throat so that I can't get the lip to lock onto the air box :(

    I'll try again once I'm not so frustrated and annoyed at this thing and if I can't.. I'll be looking for some replacement boots.

    So.. I started looking at parts diagrams... it would appear I have the airbox from a xj750 not a xj650 :( I wonder if this is all my issues.

    What I need:
    https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/yam/500421d3f8700209bc7873ed/intake

    What I have:
    https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/yam/500421eaf8700209bc787449/intake
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2019
  8. Jetfixer

    Jetfixer Well-Known Member

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    Spray silicone greatly helps and can keep boots flexible. I bought new boots for my Seca 750 from xj4ever ...did not pay 400$ ...:D. Take off top of airbox ,push boots into airbox and reach in and work with a 90 degree "booger hook" till you get lip of boot in place start with the 2 inner boots and do the 2 outer last . I can have carbs off in less than 20 minutes and back on in less than 30 minutes. But that I'd just me:cool:
     
  9. firebane

    firebane Active Member

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    I made a ninja edit..

    I apparently have a 750 airbox trying to work in a 650 bike :( Working on getting a proper 650 airbox.
     
  10. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    That would be a problem. Glad you found out what the problem was.
     
  11. Jetfixer

    Jetfixer Well-Known Member

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    Looked it up xj4ever set of 4 boots about 100$ that is cheap and worth every penny.
     
  12. firebane

    firebane Active Member

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    So in case anyone else wonders.. Here are measurements of the differences of the 650 vs 750 airbox (measured from outside edge of carb intake boot to outside edge of airbox

    To get the airbox in required removal of starter, clutch adjustment bracket, #3/#4 boots on head as well as the battery.

    750 Airbox
    [​IMG]

    650 Airbox

    [​IMG]

    Completed Installed
    [​IMG]
     
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  13. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    It's easier with the right airbox. Good job.
     
  14. firebane

    firebane Active Member

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    Welllllllllllllll the airboots to carbs were still a bit cranky but I'm using the old clamps which are too big. But yes got it done.. hopefully tomorrow I'll have it finished and hopefully the bike will run better now.

    Also.. for those who don't think it matters.... if you choose to run pods.. support those carbs! The poor boots take such a beating.
     
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