750 Maxim butchered

I reaaaaaaallllyyy don’t want to crack the carbs off the rack. Guess I don’t have much of a choice

 

It's not as daunting as it may seem. Snap a couple pics to help with reassembling. I have some plastic lunch trays that I lay out each disassembled carb into. Keeps everything for each carbs together.

 

Everyone says that at first.

Either do it now or do it later. Everything needs repair eventually, and carbs are no exception.

 

Full tear down and soak each carb bodies one at a time in Berrymans 1 gallon carb dip and pull out and soak in hot water with dawn dish soap . I just finished my spare set of carbs with a full rebuild , if you look at my thread "Why you should replace butterfly seals " you will see how bad these seals can get . New seals and makes tuning carbs much easier . Please note ALL rubber seals need removed Idle mixture screw and butterfly seals , the mixture screw "O" ring is small and can be difficult to remove sometimes.

 

Yes I actually pulled my mixture screws out the other day to see how they work and couldn’t get the o ring out. Got a set of picks on the way.

Alright I guess I’ll disassemble completely and remove the flakey black paint on the carb bodies while I’m at it. Aircraft remover safe I assume ?

 

Aircraft paitn remover is safe.

The best tool to for removing stuck idle micture needle o-rings is a sewing needle.
Pick one of an appropriate lenght and size, heat the end, and bend a small hook into it.

 

If you dont want to order the butterfly seals 2 #11 buna O rings on each side will work so in other word 4 per carb . Harbor freight has an O ring kit that has rings that work recommend putting some silicone grease on rings while reassembling.

 

Thanks for all the tips guys.

Another question, my pipes are chopped just past the x-pipes. Do those x pipes (collectors?) cause any additional back pressure or can I chop those off as well?

I ask because they’re pretty corroded and I took off (and threw away) my center stand when I initially tore this bike apart. I’m trying to get a jack up underneath the bike and don’t want to take the pipes off to do it.

 

Will that HF kit include the appropriate sized o rings for fuel supply tubes you think?

 

You want the crosspipe in place. It increases exhaust flow (and in a semi-roundaout way intake flow as well).

Chopped exhausts just result in more noise, not more power.

 

No. The fuel rail o-rings have a unique profile. They are more like a D than a O in cross-section. You have to buy the correct part. @chacal has them. HE has everything.

 

Power wasn’t really a concern. It’s already got everything cut off from the x pipe back

 

Yes he’s gotten a few hundred bucks out of me last week or two! Good dude! But I figure if I can get them locally I could finish the carbs up by Father’s Day and get to work on other things on the bike.

I got the spin on oil filter and valve adjustment setup from him in the mail yesterday and placing an order this coming week for brakes front and rear, bearings, fork seals, and I’m probably going to go ahead and order parts for the fuel cap, she’s a little leaky, tho I think if I clean up the mouth a bit it might seal up. Already got some strip discs and did a test section on the tank to see how well they work... looks great, and fast! I’d like to pull the motor and paint it and the frame but I may just clean the motor up and just paint the rear section of the frame... I’ve got till December before my twins are born and need to get the bike done before then. I know I won’t have time for it when they’re born so I may not pull the motor. I’m usually working 84hrs a week and only have an hour or two a day MAXIMUM to work on the bike. And that’s completely neglecting anything else in my life.

Sorry for the wall of text but I’m excited to do it RIGHT this time. when I put the bike together it was going to be a rat so didn’t worry too much about looks and didn’t (still don’t really) care much about performance. As long as she drives down the road I’m good

 

Power is not just how much HP is made; it's where and when it's made. Even as she is now she won't run right on stock jetting, and she'll run less-right without the crossover. The fastest and easiest way to get her running well is to get the powerplant and airflow as close to stock as possible.

 

Roger that I’ll leave it on. You have any experience with, I think they’re called, track stands? Stable enough to put the bike on there take the wheels off and do some actual wrenching?

 

Sorry I didn't e this sooner.

No track stands needed. Center stand can do it all with planning, and the careful application of straps and sandbags.