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Simmy's Naked Turbo Project

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by Simmy, Feb 25, 2017.

  1. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Left
    Twist
    Drill
     
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  2. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    if you're going to snap a bolt off this was an easier location to deal with. I was surprised that this bolt holding the starter motor penetrated the oil cavity.
    Believe me I checked that out before I drilled right through.
    It will never seep being at the top of the oil galley.
    I'll try heating it then rapid cool it with compressed air before I try turning it with an easy-out.
    There's really not much left of the bolt.
    If you were to snap the longer bolt off you may as well go cry to mama.
    The internal threads are way down inside the case.
    I have no clue why my pics are fuzzy.

    brokenbolt.jpg
     
  3. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    the FZ600 forks I'm using are 31 inches from the fork cap to the centre of the axle.
    The Turbo fork measures 31 inches from the top edge of the fork tube to the axle, virtually the same.
    I have stiffer springs going in. Notice how far apart the brake mounting holes are, that should stiffen the calipers, probably what Yamaha thought.
    The 16 inch wheel drops the front end just over an inch. The 16 on the rear drops it about .75 inches
    broken bolt.png
     
  4. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    this battle was won with help from Heli-coil.
    helicoil tap.jpg
    starter motor mounts.jpg
    I cringed at the price of the Heli-Coil kit for 6 mm threads $100.
    I have 11 more inserts now with installation tools.
    I hope I never need them again. Actually they are real easy to install if you take your time.
     
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  5. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    I really had no reason to remove the starter other than cleaning underneath it.
    Anyway its better to have found and fixed this problem now rather than later with the motor installed.
     
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  6. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    I finally painted the head and cylinders. You could spend an eternity sanding and smoothing all the million crevices, at some point I decided enough.
    Liquid-cooled cylinders and heads are much easier than this.
    3 coats of VHT high-temp primer and 3 coats Duplicolor high-temp black, all applied in 10 minute intervals.
    I was a little unsure mixing 2 brands of paint but looks good so far, no disastrous reaction yet.
    There is paint missing where the 2 lower cases join, I'm planning to just touch this up with Tremclad as the temperatures are much less there.
    It will also be mostly hidden by the frame, pipes and oil cooler anyway.
    I have some good detail sparay which will bring the black luster back to match the new paint.
    I picked up all remaining stuff I had at the powder-coaters last Friday.
    Unfortunately the shifter cover I left with them had a big crack in it which was not evident until they sandblasted it.
    The black finish of the original shift cover is acceptable so I'm done with the powder coating.
    The only thing left which might need black paint is the swing arm. I didn't send it to the powder-coaters because I didn't want to mess with the bearings.
    I hope to get away with a little touch up only.

    Next pic I post will have the motor back in the now shiny frame, let the build begin!

    painted head and barrels.jpg
     
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  7. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    the motor is back in the frame with new tapered roller steering bearings.
    motor in frame Jul 1 19.jpg
    cartridge emulators.jpg
    I intended to put the Racetech springs into the FZ600 forks, pour in new oil and install them on the bike.
    When I pulled them apart, this is the way a PO had installed the variable dampers. It just didn't seem right until I realized they were installed upside-down.
    Instead of variable dampening he would have had zero dampening.
    While noodling on that I put standard 650 Seca forks and a spare FZ wheel on just to stabilize the motor/frame while I start assembling things.
     
  8. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    WOW! I guess normal men don't read directions afterall.
    Thankfully none of us here are normal.
     
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  9. lostboy

    lostboy Well-Known Member

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    Those are not directions, they are manufacturers suggestions.
     
  10. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    I finished my FZ forks tonight and mounted them on the bike.
    The manual states 20.4" free length for the stock springs, the originals were pretty much there.
    Below is a pic of the Racetech spring and approximately a 6" spacer.
    I first made this combo about 21" and I could not get the top screwed on, they were a complete bear.
    I took off chunks until I had about 20.25" combined length of spring and spacer. This I finally got screwed together.
    The forks are noticeably stiffer than the stock Seca fork on hand for comparison.
    If they end up too stiff I can continue chopping them down later.

    Notice my workshop fork clamp.
    If you have several XJ's with 36 mm forks it's great to have a scrap lower fork crown for holding forks in a vice.
    315 ml Motul 10 wt added.
    fork clamp.jpg

    cutting.jpg

    pieces.jpg

    315ml.jpg
     
  11. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    FZ brake calipers.jpg

    I have 2 sets of FZ600 brake calipers. I need to pick out the best pair and overhaul them.
    All the gold paint is in acceptable condition so I plan to leave them like that.
    Gold calipers were a distinguishing feature of the late 80's FZ/FZR series.
     
  12. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    Well, ahem.. I downloaded Racetech's instructions off their web page and they recommend preload between 10-20 mm.
    Since I have at least 100 mm of preload I think I'll cut these down a little now.
    As they say there is no definitive amount of preload, rider preference is probably the most important aspect.
    I like stiff forks, the FZ600 forks I'm using are now on a bike about 100 lbs heavier and the rider (me) about 80 lbs heavier than the intended rider.
    More preload has other effects besides ride comfort. It can change the attitude of the bike, more preload will raise the front and slow steering, maybe a good thing since I've already quickened up the steering with the 16" wheels.

    Going from 19" to 16" on the front drops the front axle about 1-1/4".
    Going from 18" to 16" on the rear drops the rear axle about 3/4".
     
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  13. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    I pulled the forks again and re-cut the spacers, settling on 25 mm preload.
    They were at 50 mm, way too much. These springs are the stiffest of 3 options available.
    final preload 25 mm.jpg
     
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  14. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    Meet my Turbo!


    Turbo with RJ body work.jpg

    RH sidE.jpg
    RH side.jpg
     
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  15. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    my precious!
    my precious.jpg
     
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  16. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    sidestand.jpg
    The 16" wheel conversion requires a shorter stand.
    I made this years ago for my sidecar bike. I gave up ever riding that one solo so this is available.
     
  17. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    IMG_0490[1].jpg
    I was unsure how close the battery was going to clear the sidecover so I moved it out slightly.
    This will not be a problem evidently as there's lots of room under there.
     
  18. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    IMG_0479[1].jpg
    I had to re-weld the one foot peg clip which holds the footpeg rubber in place.
    Even I can weld that one.
    The other footpeg in the pic is for reference, these were not that rusty
     
  19. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    IMG_0483[1].jpg
    The sidecover tab from the RJ interferes with the R/R. You can see the hole it needs to go in.
    I can move it or shave a couple fins down.
     
  20. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Move the R/R. Those fins are kinda important.
     

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