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Simmy's Naked Turbo Project

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by Simmy, Feb 25, 2017.

  1. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    finding a set of instruments in this condition was beyond lucky. That's the electronic tach from the rare XJ650RJC
    instruments.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2019
  2. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    switch gear.jpg
    This is the original Turbo switch gear, both sides are in this condition. I first thought it was just grime but it's aluminum corrosion right under the paint.
    I have some from the RJ and also a whole assortment of switches from the FZ600.
    I need to decide which ones to go with and probably repaint. @chacal do you sell these decals?
     
  3. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    He does, or at least used to.

    I find that a lack of switch identification acts as an anti-theft device, It won't win you any awards though.
     
  4. xHondaHack

    xHondaHack Active Member Premium Member

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    Nice gauges!
    He should have the ignition switch ring decal too.

    Tony
     
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  5. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    RJ headset all finished.
    It sure looks lighter than a Seca Turbo. No one will suspect a Turbo under the hood.
    The current paint scheme looks Fisher-Price though, need to do something about that.
    I acquired 3 headlights for this project and actually used parts from all of them.
    I have enough parts left to still make a very acceptable headlight. I have 2 bikes with this light so I'm keeping a spare.
    LH side.jpg
     
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  6. MattiThundrrr

    MattiThundrrr Not a guru

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    I'll test it for you...
     
  7. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    IMG_0508[1].jpg
    one of the challenges was lining up the seat hinges. The Turbo's seat comes right off with the key, the RJ is hinged.
    Chacal had the little plastic clip for the seat stay and new hinge pins.
    As I stated previously the Turbo and the RJ share the same bracket for the lock set.
    This seat works better than my other 650 Seca from Yamaha.
    You can see the circ welds in the frame, they are offset to capture the rear hinge pin, it all came over with the tail swap, it was only the front hinge I had to fit.
     
  8. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    IMG_0517[1].jpg
    This is a little project coming up.
    My new shifter didn't come complete so I need to complete the assembly.
    I have new pedal rubber and the rubber boots from Chacal.
    There's a few parts I'll need to clean up as best I can from the old ones.
     
  9. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    Yea I knew that, however if I lose < 5% of the cooling fins it would probably be fine.
    plastic.JPG

    he does, I mean I do to. I actually bought it for my other Seca but never mounted it.
    IMG_0518[1].JPG

    Get in line buddy!
    I'm shooting for completion next spring.
     
  10. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    IMG_20190802_124107.jpg
    Turbo back in frame.

    RJ frame.jpg
    This is my engine stand.
    It's a standard 650 Seca frame just to show the difference.
    The Turbo frame spaces the centre stand pedestals further apart to make room for the turbo unit.
    IMG_20190802_124458.jpg
    This is the oil feed line to the turbo giving me grief at the moment.
    When I fit it in place its about 1" too long. I have had it totally assembled at both ends but the flex portion of the line just bulges way down below the frame
    The only explanation I have is that it got bent some how storing parts on top of it or it never fit properly to begin with.
    If I tighten the 2 bends in the pic it would fit perfect but I don't have a tubing bender, without one it will kink for sure.
    This still doesn't make sense, I haven't changed anything.
    IMG_20190802_124436.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2019
  11. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    IMG_0546[1].jpg
    this is what's bothering me, the oil line hangs down too low.
    IMG_0549[1].jpg
    It does get hidden by the sidestand.
    IMG_0548[1].jpg

    I guess I need to find a small tube bender, a bit of tweeking is all it needs to fit perfectly.
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2019
  12. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    I'm waiting for an 8mm check valve to arrive from China to put in the scavenge line like @JeffK has done.
    Once I have the oil lines finished I can mount the exhaust.
    I have the oil cooler installed but can't put oil in it until the lines are finished.
    I still haven't opened up the clutch cover yet either.
    I have fresh Barnett springs ready to go in. I'm hoping the disks are good to go.
     
  13. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Easy solution is to raise the ride height of the bike ;)

    (or you could take the line to a hydraulics shop and have them modify it to your specs).
     
  14. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    LOL, unfortunately I've already lowered the bike.
    I like this guy's tools, it looks like he has mandrels to fit the Yamaha lines





    shifter.jpg
    I need one more trip to the Chacal store for a linkage rod and new chrome circlip & washer.
    I salvaged the chrome knuckle from the 650RJ donor bike. The rust mostly came off with steel wool.
     
  15. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Wax the lever. The rust was there because the chrome was pitted, and the rust will come back unless you do something to stave it off.
     
  16. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    I just ordered a cheapy brake line bender. 5/16" is the centre of the range it bends, same as the 8 mm Yamaha line.
     
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  17. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    I had to share these pics. I'm stoked with the oil cooler. It is now completely unobstructed to the cool air.

    IMG_0555[1].jpg
    IMG_0556[1].jpg
     
  18. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    This task below took me all day to finish. I had 2 sets of calipers so I decided to dismantle and clean both sets at once.
    I stripped them all down but one set was slightly better, pistons were perfect so they will go on the bike with the new seal kit.
    The other set are just spares. I have 3 vintage Yamahas now using this same caliper.
    I cleaned them all equally, put old seals back in the spares and poured them full of oil and now they're hanging in my shed.

    IMG_0558[1].jpg
    IMG_0561[1].jpg
     
  19. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    I also took a look at the Turbo's front brake master cylinder.
    It was still functioning so I didn't expect much hassle.
    One screw for the lid was already buggered, I had to drill the head off.
    I put the MC in my vice supported only by the lid edge and smacked it good with a rubber mallet before it would separate.
    A poof of white dust was between the diaphragm and the lid. Aluminum cake! The rest was just jelly puke.
    This was a functioning m/c, LOL
    There is funky stuff inside the Turbo master for fluid level monitoring.
    I cleaned under the float level stuff. I have no use for this but it's not leaking now so I put it all back.
    The float actually displaces a lot of fluid, perhaps Yamaha figured out that you don't need the idiot light for low fluid if you don't actually displace the fluid with warning BS gizmos to begin with.
    Easy enough to discard the float anytime and easy to wrap the wires somewhere.
    Next step is to install a new seal kit in the master. Hopefully no issues to rebuild, it was actually functioning as I said.
     
  20. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    I like having a low fluid level warning, but then I have the funky remote master cylinder that has no sight glass.
     

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