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It finally stranded me.

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by tabaka45, May 15, 2019.

  1. tabaka45

    tabaka45 Well-Known Member

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    Time to pull the carbs, Sea Foam didn’t help. Bike stars, idles and runs well for about 1/2 mile then I guess the #3 carb empties because I lose that cylinder. I wonder why these carbs seem to need so much attention. I have a 2001 Honda Shadow, a 2004 Honda Aero, and a 2004 Honda Rebel and have never had to touch the carbs.
     
  2. Ryengoth

    Ryengoth Active Member

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    I never cared for the spring pin needles. It should be on or off without any play in the lever setup.
     
  3. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    He has solid brass float needles. No springs.
     
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  4. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    I haven't messed with mine in 7 years. I did mess with a spare set a few years ago, and haven't touched them since setting them up.

    There could be something going on that you missed earlier. Maybe a burr on a float pillar.
     
  5. tabaka45

    tabaka45 Well-Known Member

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    We will know as soon as I get in there—probably Tuesday night. Wife will be gone all week, so I have plenty of time.
     
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  6. Ryengoth

    Ryengoth Active Member

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    Garage time! At least as long as it's not 150F heat index like it has been here. I need a 2T mini-split in my garage.
     
  7. tabaka45

    tabaka45 Well-Known Member

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    Carbs are off, apart and soaking in cleaner. They all were pretty clean, but as I suspected there was some gum around the seat, needle and screen in the number three carb. Have no idea why only that car would have gum but it did. What is your opinion about the screens attached to the needle seat? Originally there were none but I added them when I replaced the original seats and needles. Now that I have a good inline fuel filter I am considering leaving out the screens.
     
  8. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    if you have carbs apart you could pull them off as long as you are using a filter . screen would hold back a chunk of fuel line after the filter keeping it out of your needle
     
  9. tabaka45

    tabaka45 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, my thoughts also. My filter is just a coup of inches above the fuel rail.
     
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  10. tabaka45

    tabaka45 Well-Known Member

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    Carbs are clean and back together, The more I think about it, I think the real problem I had with the #3 carb was that the screen over the needle valve was clogged and not allowing enough flow to keep the bowl full. The needle and seat looked fine and the needle was loose, although there was a little gum on the seat. In any case, it's all clean and I omitted the screens since I am running a good inline filter. Since I didn't change anything with the needles or floats I was tempted to just re-install the carbs without checking the fuel levels or check for leaks. But having made that mistake before, I put that temptation aside along with the carbs and will do it tonight and then reinstall the carbs. Sometimes I'm not long on patience. It has been several years and I had forgotten what a pita it is to pull and install the carbs.
     
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  11. tabaka45

    tabaka45 Well-Known Member

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    Success! At least I hope so. Had more trouble than I remember getting the air boots back on, but everything is back on and it starts and runs well. At 74, going on 75, I sure hope this is the last time I have to deal with the carbs. When I first tried to wet set the floats I had a problem with one of the needles and gas was pouring out of the overflow line. Figuring it was the same carb that was the original problem I pulled that bowl and blew it out. Still leaked, so I pulled all bowls and blew out the gas line and blew air through the needle seats. Put the floats and needles back in and hooked up the gas with the carbs inverted and no bowls to see if any were leaking. Lifted the float on each carb to be sure fuel flowed and stopped when the float was resting on the needle. Installed the bowls and let it sit for an hour just to be sure there were no leaks. First time I had ever used the inverted carb method to check the needles, but it worked for me.
     
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  12. tabaka45

    tabaka45 Well-Known Member

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    It has always run well, or at least I thought it ran well. In the past I have to admit to being a little concerned about it occasionally shutting down at idle. However, after replacing the alternator brushes and getting a full 12.5 volts at idle, it starts easier, idles a lot better and runs amazing well. Removing the screens on the needle seats and cleaning the jets and fuel rail solved the cold cylinder issue. If XJ550H had not mentioned checking the voltage I would have never considered that it had low voltage or that that would cause a problem with idle. Live and learn. Thanks.
     
  13. tabaka45

    tabaka45 Well-Known Member

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    Just a follow-up note. Believe it or not, since I installed the new alternator brushes my fuel mileage has gone up drastically. Today I filled up and added 1.52 gal for 75.6 miles, or about 49 mpg. Even if I was off by 1/10 gal that still is over 46 mpg. I have been noticing that the mpg seemed to have increased so i wanted to wait until I had checked it several times. The only possible explanation I have is that the new brushes and higher voltage from the alternator somehow has resulted on a hotter spark and more efficient burning of the fuel. Am I completely nuts?
     
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  14. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    less. drag on alternator to charge battery and run lights is also a reason for better gas milage
     

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