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New to me XJ1100

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by tradmedic, Jun 14, 2019.

  1. tradmedic

    tradmedic Member

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    All but 2 intake valves now in spec. Gotta order 2 x 270's.

    Now getting ready to go back to work, I was thinking about taking the calipers and M/c's with me to rebuild during my down time. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get the sensor wire out of the front m/c. Anyone have some photos or tips?
     
  2. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    brake switch? or fluid level sensor?
     
  3. tradmedic

    tradmedic Member

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    Fluid level sensor.
     
  4. mlew

    mlew Well-Known Member

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    leave it in, you will break it if you try to take it out. Just unplug the wires inside the headlight bucket. The brake light switch comes out easy by pushing the locking tab in with a small screwdriver and pulling it out
     
  5. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    if sensor does not work chacal sells replacement or resistor bypass for warning light.

    @chacal likely could tell you how to remove it
     
  6. tradmedic

    tradmedic Member

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    Sensor works. Just unplugged it from the headlight. Will cease any further efforts at removal, and work to clean around it. Thanks for the timely advice!
     
  7. tradmedic

    tradmedic Member

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    When replacing brake lines with stainless steel ones from Chacal, the red taped end goes towards or away from the master cylinder? I'm sure I have it written down somewhere, but figured someone here could likely tell me.
     
  8. tradmedic

    tradmedic Member

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    Nvmnd. Found it. Tagged end to termination point.
     
  9. tradmedic

    tradmedic Member

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    Ignorance was bliss. As I am in the thick of a complete brake line, m/c, and caliper rebuild, I find myself shaking my head at the highway rides I did take. Lots of gunk and grime; thankfully settled into low points in the system. 20190726_220740.jpg 20190726_220549.jpg
     
  10. tradmedic

    tradmedic Member

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    Getting a little frustrated with my rear master cylinder. I have pulled it apart a few times now, and it'll compress and spring back easily a few times (when put in lubed up) but quickly begins to stiffen and fail to spring back out all the way.

    I have dismantled and cleaned every orifice, took some 0000 steel wool to the piston bore, wire brushed the old piston; taking care to make sure the seal seat was clean. There is a little pitting in the cylinder, but nothing that strikes me as major. It was working before I took it apart and replaced the seals. Maybe time to look for a new piston for it?
     
  11. JPaganel

    JPaganel Well-Known Member

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    This.

    We have a Pirtek franchise in town, see if you got one nearby. They sell hose that is teflon-cored, stainless braided, and covered in vinyl over stainless. It will probably outlast the bike, even as long-lived as Yamahas are, and maybe even survive some kind of an apocalypse.
     
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  12. tradmedic

    tradmedic Member

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    I decided to get the braided stainless lines and rebuild kits from Chacal; great service by the way.

    The current hang up is the piston in the rear master cylinder. Polished the cylinder bore with 0000 steel wool, took some of the weathering off the piston with a wire brush. Without seals, the piston moves free and clear. With the seals in place, and red grease on them, the piston will spring back for a few cycles then begin to bind up in the bore.

    The rebuild kit I ordered doesn't come with a new piston. I'm wondering if the old piston is too corroded, or maybe a little bent, causing the hang up? Otherwise, there is some minor pitting in the cylinder bore, but I didn't think it looked bad enough to cause problems. At this point I am considering ordering the complete rebuild kit from Chacal, or trying to source a used master cylinder; any feedback or recommendations would be appreciated.
     
  13. tradmedic

    tradmedic Member

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    Pulled it apart again. Got a pic of the worst of the pitting. Does this look bad enough to be what's sticking things up? 20190729_180651.jpg
     
  14. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    That's pretty bad. I'd look for a replacement master, or have that one sleeved.
     
  15. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Ya that looks bad and you did a great job of making it clean and shiny. It just looks like a new or better one is in order. How are the internals? The spring and the rubber?
     
  16. tradmedic

    tradmedic Member

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    Spring and rubber are good. I think the piston is too. Either way, I found a used cylinder from a salvage outfit in BC (New Life Salvage), reportedly working. I also started looking for places that will sleeve my old one; 37 year old parts can't be getting any easier to find.

    So now it is on to the fuse box, just about to get the soldering iron. I have it all rigged up with tape and zip-ties to get everything sitting nicely. 20190808_112252.jpg
     
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  17. tradmedic

    tradmedic Member

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    Nearing done on the fuses. Main 30A fuse replaced with an inline blade style holder, same with the 2A fuse behind the headlight. Got the four main fuses all changed over successfully. Now just stuck on the auxiliary DC terminal block. The wires from either side of the fuse have been moved over to the new box, leaving a third wire (I am guessing "ground") to be placed. Can anyone confirm if this is in fact a ground? Also, any advise on where to move or connect this wire to would be appreciated.
     
  18. tradmedic

    tradmedic Member

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    20190818_110517.jpg Got my replacement rear m/c from BC early this week. Everything seemed to be in working order, but I threw the new seals on anyway. Spent a day cursing that wretched portioning valve system, and bleeding every connection, and still failing to get brake pressure.


    Given a blocking plug, it may have been easier to prime the forward and rearward sections of the system individually. I did not have one, though, so can't really weigh in on that.


    Not being the sharpest bowling ball in the shed, it didn't dawn on me all at once. I figured out that if you try to bleed it with the rear caliper in place, there is a high point in the line before any connectors. So I took it off, hung it from the side so the caliper was the high point and took the palm sander (without paper) to it. And worked out a good burp of air. Still, though, no brakes. The slow realization was that a similar problem existed in the forward section, in the hardline that follows along and under the frame. It rises to an apex behind the head tube. So I disconnected the hardline and freed it from the frame so I could hang it from the handlebar with a zip tie in such a way that the opening was the high point, and bled it to the end of that line. I tied it back into the system and bled my way out each connection toward the caliper. Finally...brakes!

    So now she is safe for the road this season, with a scheduled maintenance calendar to finish up all the little bits.

    To recap, I've done: the valve clearances, adjusted timing chain tension, new SS brake lines to replace the original '83 rubbers, rebuilt all three calipers, and both master cylinders. The oil and filter has been changed, as has the middle and final drive oils and fork oil. Front and rear suspension air pressures topped up, and holding. New, modern, fuse box is installed, along with two inline fuse holders. New hose and clamps for the octopus, with in-line fuel filters. Carbs balanced after shim change. No play notable in wheel or head bearings.

    Ladies and gentlemen, we have a runner! She likes to pull. Smiles for miles. Now on to the process of tuning by plug chop.

    Outstanding within the next year: A complete carb overhaul, petcock rebuilds, change wheel and head bearings, new shoes, and cosmetics.
     
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