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Simmy's Naked Turbo Project

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by Simmy, Feb 25, 2017.

  1. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    I agree for the 750 Seca it makes sense. Anything else with a sight glass not so much.
    My 4 day weekend with the family gone is over. I got a lot of things accomplished with the bike.
    The best part is the clean up of my garage, I sorted all my parts and anything which might be needed for the Turbo is now in one of 3 boxes.
     
  2. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    IMG_0603[1].jpg
    IMG_0604[1].jpg
    IMG_0606[1].jpg
    IMG_0608[1].jpg
    The oil line fits about as good as it gets now with the OEM layout.
    The kink in the rubber flex portion is gone, that bothered me most.
    Ideally a new line could be made up, one day maybe.
    This oil line is 6 mm actually, I think I mentioned earlier it was 8.
    The check valve for the scavenge line also arrived by mail, that line is 8 mm OD so that's what size I ordered.
     
  3. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    Nice work there Simmy!
     
  4. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    All the final engine covers are now in place. I used the non-YICS valve cover just because I prefer the look of it.
    Same with the crank end caps (oil pump covers). No more stupid YICS written anywhere, YIKES!

    IMG_0629.JPG

    IMG_0628.JPG

    check valve.JPG
    I mounted this $4 check valve in the scavenge line from the turbo as recommended by @JeffK
    Although I replaced the o-ring seal at the pump I believe the swiping surfaces in the pump itself leak oil while the unit sits.


    Barnett.JPG
    I freshened up the clutch with Barnett springs.
    The new springs were 44.5 mm free length. The old were about 42 mm.
    Going with the OEM clutch plates until I have a problem.
     
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  5. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    988B62CA-5492-4947-9A7D-8A9440AD9589.jpeg Canadian paint booth
     
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  6. lostboy

    lostboy Well-Known Member

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    CAR....... game on!
     
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  7. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    I took a look at the pressure blow off valve which fits on the surge tank tonight.
    It also incorporates a reed valve system so the fresh air is able to by-pass the turbocharger at lower rpm's.
    Apparently the BOV spring is able to hold 14 psi before releasing boost pressure. By slipping a fender washer into the assembly it preloads the spring and holds the valve tight to about 20 psi.
    The BOV is meant to be a last defense before over boosting and damaging things.
    I bought a boost controller, BoostValve its called and with that you can set the pressure the wastegate opens to just below the level of the BOV, 18 psi as @JeffK set his.
    IMG_0642[1].jpg
    screws were in there pretty tight, C-clamp used to keep the spring pressure from binding the screws.
    For sure I'll need the clamp for reassembly with extra preload.
    IMG_0644[1].jpg
    I had a nice shiny washer on hand with the perfect OD but the ID was too big and the spring sat cockeyed, no good.
    IMG_0645[1].jpg
    IMG_0646[1].jpg
    IMG_0648[1].jpg


    IMG_0651[1].jpg
    I like the silver powder coating, makes the brake pedal look aluminum.
    Yes I know I have the swing arm pivot shafts reversed. They're only there so they don't get lost.
    I have 4 Yamaha rear brake switches but misplaced the LJ one somewhere. When I tore the 2 Secas down I stashed parts everywhere.
    I'm astonished I've found everything else so far. Luckily @chacal lists them.

    IMG_0654[1].jpg
    This side just needs a new sidestand switch rubber from Chacal
     
  8. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    My thread has garnered 10,000 views, thanks guys! If this were You-Tube I could buy a coffee or something LOL.
    I'm just about ready to start modifying the wiring harness.
    I plan to install the matching plugs on the LJ wiring harness to accept the plugs on the 650Seca headlight and dash panel.
    The 650 Seca routes the main wiring under the steering stem, the Turbo runs wiring along both sides of the steering stem and appears to be much longer but not certain about that yet.
    The LJ also routes the main harness along the side of the bike where it's covered by the huge side panels.
    It sits under the seat on the RJ, so I'll need to install the surge tank, air box and battery box and find room to route the harness like the RJ.
    This might mean some wiring might need to be extended to reach things, other wires nay need to be shortened.
    I have the wiring harness from the RJ and the LJ so I will spread them out on a table for initial comparison.
     
  9. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    After a discussion with @chacal he asked if the washer could be installed at the other end of the spring?
    That's what I did, however it is going to be thinner than a larger fender washer at the other end.
    I need some info from @JeffK if he measured the thickness of his washer and what his resultant pressure relief ended up being?
    washer.JPG
    Although I'm not planning to clutter my instruments with a boost gauge I will have to install something temporary to dial in the BoostValve.
    Set the the BoostValve initially low and I will be able to see at what pressure this BOV opens. Then I'll know if this spring needs more preload.
     
  10. ManBot13

    ManBot13 Well-Known Member

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    Spring force is linear. So measure the deflection of the spring in the stock configuration. That equals 14 psi . Then figure out what psi you would like it to open at (say 18 psi). Spring equation is x = k*F, so (stock length) = k * (14psi). Solve for k. Plug into x2 = k *(18psi). Then subtract your stock deflection from x2. That's your washer thickness.

    I didn't read back in your thread. Are you changing out the fuel pump? Fuel pressure must be 2 psi + Boost Pressure at all times or the carb bowls will empty out. So max boost pressure you can get out is 12 psi, with the stock pump putting out 14 psi.

    Also, FYI, the blow off valve is not really a fail safe for the wastegate. It is there to deal with the pressure wave from slamming the throttle closed under full boost. This will create a pressure wave as the compressor still has inertia and will continue to compress air immediately after the throttle valve is closed.

    Using the blow-off valve as a waste gate is no bueno for the compressor because it allows the turbine to basically free wheel as exhaust gases can keep driving it to higher and higher speeds. The wastegate prevents this by cutting the Turbo Pump from the energy it needs to spin the compressor.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2019
  11. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    I'll do the math, that's great info.

    Yes I'm planning a new pump.


    You're the 2nd one to explain this to me, so I'm now convinced, thanks.
     
  12. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    I had read that the surge tank drain valve filter would need replacement so I ordered the gasket, o-ring & filter.
    Sure enough the foam filter was crumbling. I flushed the valve mechanism with WD40.
    IMG_0662.JPG
     
  13. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    Last night I tore my carbs down to the bare bodies for dunking and new seals.
    Took about 2 hours but everything came apart. I needed an easy-out on 2 pilot jets and 2 butterfly screws.
    In my zeal to break them down I think I damaged the butterfly plates. the last set of Mikunis I rebuilt I wiggled the plates straight out the outlet opening so this is what I did with the Turbo set, however to get them out I needed persuasion from a hammer. I really should have stopped as there is no way they went together like that.
    They must go in and out through the top of the body, who knows for sure? I sure couldn't see a way last night.
    Only the 2 outer hats are chromed and they have rust through the plating. I have spare Mikuni 30mm carbs from the FZ600 with great hats but they are smaller and don't fit. I also have spare 900 carbs I will see if those hats fit. I know @chacal sells the hats but he does not list the butterfly plates.
    I'm not sure if the 600 butterfly plates are compatible, they do have a different stamping, I need to pull one out of the FZ and see if they fit, they're both 30 mm, perhaps the holes are not spaced the same. I hate to source another set of Turbo carbs just for the plates.
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2019
  14. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    We should have some good used carb hats for the turbo carbs (the 900's wont fit) as well as butterfly valves...…...just let me know how many you need, etc.
     
  15. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Len, I will add to my next list coming to you.
    I'm sure you have torn enough of these Turbo carbs apart, is there a way to wiggle the plate out through the top?
     
  16. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    Yes, that is how it is done! I don't know why you had so much trouble, maybe they were slightly bent? Although, they are a tough (tight) fit...……….
     
  17. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    #4 was the tightest and really took some hammering to extract.
    I can't understand how it ever got assembled without scoring the bore, as the 2nd pic shows I sure did getting it out.
    IMG_0705[1].jpg
    IMG_0706[1].jpg
    IMG_0709[1].jpg
    this pic shows a Turbo butterfly plate 130 next to FZ600 size 140. They're both 30 mm carbs but there's obviously some difference so I'm not even going to try fitting them.
    Len has come to the rescue and will supply replacements for #3 and 4 which I buggered up the most.
    I was doing this in my garage with the back door open, ambient temp -4C, not sure if that had anything to do with it, can't see the bore shrinking that much.
    Thinking on those lines maybe best to freeze the plate and heat the body for assembly like installing bearings.
     
  18. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    I laid the wiring harnesses from the RJ & LJ next to each other on a table in my basement and started the process of modifying the LJ harness to accept all the RJ instruments etc.

    IMG_0713[1].jpg

    IMG_0717[1].jpg
     
  19. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    I have a question for the electrical gurus.
    I removed the LJ's oil level sensor and installed the RJ oil level sensor as one switch is normally closed vs normally open, shout out to @XJ550H for that one.
    The B/R wire on the RJ is routed from the oil level switch through the diode block before reaching the bulb in the idiot display.
    On the LJ the wire went directly to the computer monitor.
    I now have the B/R wire going from the oil level switch direct to the RJ idiot display, no diode in between.
    Is this a problem?

    Another issue I discovered is that the 2nd wire to the oil level/engine light on the RJ display is fed by the R/W wiring circuit which seems to power the primary winding of the HT coils and all the various relays on the bike. I was able to dig into the harness and find where the R/W's are all joined together and plan to splice another R/W run up to the instruments, just like the RJ harness has.
     
  20. jayrodoh

    jayrodoh YimYam Premium Member

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    It originally goes to the diode block on the RJ to allow for the start button to light the light, the purpose of the diode is to prevent the starter from engaging should the oil level switch close the circuit. You will loose the self test of the light when pressing the starter button if you keep it this way but it will work if the oil level is low and the bulb is good. Without the self test function, it will be tricky to test the bulb.

    This will be fine, as you mentioned the positive side of the bulb is connected to the red white wire.
     

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