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XJ700 package deal

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Timbox, Nov 2, 2019.

  1. Ryengoth

    Ryengoth Active Member

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    Don't leave it in there too long or it will discolor the aluminum. A couple of hours should do.
     
  2. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Thanks about that color but not too worried ab out that. Most of that can be powered off with some soap water and a tooth brush.
     
  3. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Finally got the gas cap off the tank...not good. Threw some nuts and bolts in it to knock the big stuff off. Took high pressure air and a vacuum to it, this is just to get the chunks out. Seems to be holding water for now, have some old viegure solution just to get the nasty stuff out. I will use a good rust removal chem this time but I do not plan on sealing the tank. Not very lucky with 87 oct gas in my area.

    One more carb to put together and then finding some good "O" rings for the fuel tubes. Yes I know Len has them and that might be the way I go. :) Still working on the clutch cable, just being stubborn, a little more PB and some TLC and she should come lose.
     
  4. Ryengoth

    Ryengoth Active Member

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    Crud Cutter, The Must For Rust. 100x better and faster than evaporust. Rotate it often to keep it in contact or it will not work well. Smells like diluted hcl and phos acid mix to me so wear gloves. It will leave a phosphate coating for protection, but very thin, which is fine for gas tanks.
     
  5. tabaka45

    tabaka45 Well-Known Member

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    place the carbs in boiling water for about 15 minutes, then blow them out with carb cleaner followed with compressed air. Varnish will be gone.
     
  6. Jetfixer

    Jetfixer Well-Known Member

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    Please tell me you replaced the butterfly seals...if you split rack and tore down carbs ,soaking in carb cleaner will perish carb seals ...see my post on why you should replace your butterfly seals ...
     
  7. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    ^^^ Oh yes learned my lesson on a FJ1200 I worked on and didn't check the throttle body seals. Could not get the bike to idle. Could look down and see the engine suction pressure moving the throttle shaft on both outside carbs. I am just putting the individual carbs back together, all the jets and the diaphragm and tops. The seals will come later as they can be down without having to break into the bottom or top of the carbs. I look over the seals real good and make sure there are no cracks in them. I normally soak them in DOT3 for 24 hrs too, just to give them a little life again. That normally works.

    The PO must have filled the gas tank up, put the bike on prime and just left it sit. The carbs were just covered. That boiling idea I should have done, would have made it easy and I will remember that in the future.
     
  8. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Got the carbs on her today and gave it a try.
    [​IMG]DSCN0038 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
    [​IMG]DSCN0039 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
    She started up and sounded good. She got a sponge bath for that and a clean air box. Not that it needed to be cleaned out or anything. Might need a new filter before I run her on the rd though?
    [​IMG]DSCN0041 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
     
  9. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Got the shed doors open, AUX gas tank hanging up and let her rip. No drips from the bowls that is still good. She is running and shooting all kinds of mouse stuff out of the exhaust! No acorns but lots of other stuff. Nice flames with that as well. 1 and 4 are not firing as they should be, 2 and 3 are nice and warm on the IR temp gauge. Start to take apart the connectors, cut the leads back a bit and do some cleaning on the contacts for the coils. Nice easy place for the coils on the XJ700, I say that now until I might have to change them out. This bike has 3505 miles on the speedo...no way right?

    The side covers on both side are the Yamaha type without the YICS stamped on the side. The engine is a YICS as they bolts are there to plug the holes and the valve cover has the YICS on it. Just interesting, PO might have changed them out, for all I know they come that way on the XJ700 Maxim?
     
  10. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    700 is YICS whether it says so on the engine sides or not
     
  11. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    I knew the engine was that as it has the bolt covering the YICS tool location. Was not sure if all YICS engines came with the engine covers stamped YICS? Thanks for the input though.
     
  12. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    My 700 just says YAMAHA
     
  13. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Warmed up the bike today and added a little sea foam in the oil. Just wanted to get it up to temp and make sure the oil wold drain good being so cold out. Getting those 19mm and 12mm drain/filer cover plugs off took some time. The 12mm I had to hit with my electric impact driver to break it free. Jacking the bike rear end up to get at the plugs is a must on the lift too. Oil filter is a EMO so at least it was changed out once. Still oil was nasty as most of these projects bikes are.

    Soaking the MC screws now so I can work on the brakes next. Warming up the bike unfroze the oil swx as well. The light was not working (known good light) and now the light comes on as it should. I think the first oil change with be about one tank of gas just to make sure it gets cleaned up nice.

    Going to try the Evapo-Rust soon, but needs to be 65F or above, so that might have to weight a while.
     
  14. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Worked on getting the cover off the MC here is what I use if they are stuck, rusty or just a pain. The screws are still in good condition that is how the bit is able to fit. Use a 1/4 wrench and a hammer just tap and add pressure counter clockwise and it seems to work well.
    [​IMG]DSCN0047 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
     
  15. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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  16. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Got the shims in and buttoned her back up. Put the choke on with no gas hooked up, just what was left in the bowl from last week. She started right up, valve were way out of spec. Now I have to wait for a warmer day to open shed and do a carb synch, have not got the shop set up for exhaust fumes to run outside and keep the shed warm. This is still a hobby ( I keep telling myself) so no need to rig that up. :)
     
  17. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Pulled the wheels off her today, have them on order. Front was totally bald and the back was dry rotted cracked. While the wheels are off I polished the axles and have the tank warming up for the rust removal process. I will problebly have to rebuild the petcock too, but I will check that after the tank is done and I have a good mix of fuel with some mystery oil on the metal in the tank.
     
  18. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Finished the tank over the past few days. Looks like the new to me product did a great job. So Evapo Rust of better from now on. Easy to use and didn't have to shake or really keep an eye on it. Rinsed it well with fresh water and then hit the inside with compressed air. Added some Mystery oil to it and got that covering all the metal inside in case of flash rusting that could happen. Once it is filled with fuel the Mystery oil will just get burned away.

    Took the really large grips off it too, even found a spacer on the left bar end to make up the size difference.
    [​IMG]20200203_131610 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
    [​IMG]20200203_131633 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
    Have a new set ready to go on, but I might change out the bars to a little more conventional set, not sure yet. Time of get a new gas cap (as that was off when I got the bike).
     
  19. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    As you can tell from the pics at the start of the thread, this bike has cosmetic issues. New tires are being mounted now, already did a little work on the front disks to clean them up and polish the bolts. Now comes the rear brake housing, tried to clean it up a bit and then sanded it with 150 and orbital. Hit it again with the bench polishing wheel and I don't think that is the trick. Going with aluminum colored 500 degree engine paint to make it look better. Being that is so cold here I have to heat the can's up on the stove and take the heat gun to the part to get them up to 75 F or so. We have more snow on the way and I was hoping to have the tires back on to be able to move the bike, not going to happen.

    In the future I will need to take a look at painting the front fender and maybe the gas tank. I know the clear coat for the tank has to be the good stuff that will not be harmed by gas. I am always trying to paint and it never turns out the way I think it should. Nos this is all rattle can and not a air brush with the proper mix of paint and hardener, don't know if I want to build a make shift paint booth to do all that.
     
  20. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Paint seemed to work okay, good enough and better looking than what it was. Back tire is back on and got a call from the shop that the front is done. A little cool today so not working on the bikes today. Should be closer to 30's tomorrow so will get back to wiring and the front tire for this bike.
     

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