Swapping valve shims

I have started the task of adjusting my valve shims, and I am curious if you can take them out using the zip-tie method without putting a new one back in right away? Reason I ask is the local shop does an exchange, but you have to bring in your shims you are swapping out in order to get the new ones. So, in order to do that, I would probably want to keep zip tie in when I pull each shim, but it worries me that it would be bad somehow for the engine?

Could I really muck something up doing it that way? Would the buckets have a chance to somehow get unaligned inside the engine?

 

I would not try that, without the shim in there I don't think you will be able to open up the valve enough to get a zip tie or insulated wire (what I use) in to hold the valve open. Go back to the guy and borrow a few and give him $5 for a few of them. That way he will not be out anything and you will get it back once you do the shim swap with him.

Hope the helps out.... Again I would not try to pull a shim and then try to get shims latter.

 

Right. What I was considering is leaving the zip tie in until I got the new shims to put back in, then I would remove the zip tie. So if I left then in, I wouldn’t really need to worry about if the cam would push the bucket down far enough. Hmmm

The place that has the exchange is actually the Yamaha dealer lol. It’s 3 per shim for the exchange or you buy them for $30 each. Gross

 

you can cut some plastic (soft) to make place holders stack for thickness wants to be thick enough not to rip.
the concern is that the cam lobes will scratch on the empty buckets when rotated.

Have you checked the sizes you have to see if you can move them around

got a dollar store near you plastic lids would work or the bottoms of a snap and seal container.

a larger juice container not the cover, looking for about 2 mm thick max in total

bleach bottle, oil bottle, windshield washer fluid bottle. a few layers

xj4ever sells place holders.

 

you want to check all clearances and sizes to see if you can just swap them around

measure clearances pull each shim and return it to its place after getting size from bottom.

record your info in a note book so you have it all for the next time you measure.
this will give you an Idea of what is needed in the future.

use a note book to record the story of your bike.

ignition system specs and measurements.

charging system specs.

voltage drop of current battery

and key number if it is on key and if not it should be on bottom of key switch.

vin , miles.
the devil is in the details.

 

Ahh yes. Didn’t think about the scratching part. I have some left over pvc that should work perfectly. I did all the measurements and just need 3 out of 8 shims since I can move a lot of them around. But In order to start the swap, I need a 255. From there I can get to the last 2. But then I would need 2 275s to finish it up.

 

I recommend buying a thin shim on ebay and keep it to use when checking/swapping shims. They'll run about $10 delivered to your door.

 

I keep a stack of old 2pence pieces to act as dummy shims when I need to rotate the engine during a shim-swapping session if I don't have the right one for the job. You will find something in your local coinage that will be adequate.

 

Nice soft copper ones - or the nasty new copper-coloured steel ones??

 

Copper ones superficially, but they've been steel-cored for a long time. I've never put a magnet on these to find out.

 

So what did you end up doing with the shims? Did you get one and then move it around to see what the other shims are? Did you use the coin method mentioned above? Hope you get those shims from the local dealer and I hope they have what you need. They don't cost that much if you have to order a few.

 

I swapped some shims with the local dealer, but didn’t notice one was a Kawasaki shims with the beveled edge, so I had to order one of eBay. Otherwise swapped the others around.

 

Interested to know how it makes a difference, once you get running again.