Float needles with no spring?

Hello everyone while doing the carbs on my 82 xj650j maxim I bought rebuild kits as I got through to the float needles I noticed the ones I took out didnt have springs, also the new ones that came in the kit didnt have springs either. Most of the how to vids I've watched shows needles with springs. Is this ok to use without springs? The pic is exactly like what I got.

 

There's a little spring below that brass coloured nipple, push it down and it should pop up again.
Same style as early XS1100 float needles among others, the tang on the float itself pushes down on the nipple when in situ.
If they are the same as what you have taken out then what's the problem?
In theses vids you've watched do the needles have like a shaped piece of wire coming off the needle, and also a viton rubber tip on the needle, that then attaches to the tang on the float?

 

Yes the 650 is supposed to have the ones with the wire/spring that goes over the tab on the float and that have the rubber tip. The bike was running before the tear down so I'm assuming these will work but I just wanted to make sure these are correct for this bike. I dont like to guess on things and wanted to make sure i get the right parts. But they will probably be fine I figured I'd just ask the pros before I threw the rack back together.

 

Courtesy of Len

https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-c-fuel-system.44642/

"NOTE: kits that contain the original style rubber-tipped needles include the needle hanger clip. By the way, the purpose of this clip is to prevent the rubber tip of the needle from "seizing" within the float valve seat (due to the rubber swelling), or fuel varnish forming around it (and "gluing" it to the brass seat). Since the clip is attached to the float, as the fuel bowl empties the weight of the float pulling down on the needle will tend to overcome any needle tip seizure and prevent that float valve from remaining closed, even as the float bowl empties of fuel.

Metal-tipped needles, although not original on Hitachi carbs, were used on many original Mikuni carbs. The metal needle tips are much less prone to tip seizure and thus metal-tipped needles do not need, nor use (or even accept) the needle retaining clip."

Perhaps a bit of confusion on terminology as you referred to the hangers / clip as springs?

Also, you didn't share the source for your parts but if they are the same length you are likely OK to proceed with them. The wet set should reveal any issues with the float valves.

 

Many aftermarket needles do not include the needle hanging clips. A very annoying oversight, and often a clue that the float needles are likely not the correct size. A few manufacturers make "universal" float needles and market them for specific carbs, even though they are not engineered for that specific carb.

 

Yep, and this leads to all sorts of issues as a different length needle (or a needle length that doesn't match the depth of the brass seat) can lead to a "cocked" needle within the seat bore as the needle travels up-and-down within the seat, responding to float position. The "tang" on the float that actually contacts and pushes up on the float needle moves thru an "arc" as the float moves up-and-down (in response to the fuel level in the bowl), and thus the force acting on the float needle tip by the float "tang" creates both vertical (up-and-down) as well as horizontal forces (forward-and-back). If the needle length isn't correct, the horizontal forces in combination with the vertical forces can cause the needle to hang up...........

P.S. the skinny "tip" of the needle is spring loaded so that vibrational events and sudden shocks (going over a hard bump in the road) can be absorbed by the spring, rather than the full force of such being directed onto the needle tip itself.