My turn to ask for help.

There is an idea. It'd be relatively inexpensive too.
If I don't find the Ezi Pull mentioned earlier I'll see about figuring that out, and as soon is it's made and fitted I'll find the Ezi Pull.

The only reason I thought about hydraulic is because Magura makes a bolt-on kit for just that, but it's a bit more expensive than I can stand. The knockoffs are all sized for 400cc and under.

 

Another reason for wanting a relatively cheap fix for this issue: the stiching on my Corbin seat finally gave up the ghost. Today's ride on the factory seat reminded me why I bought the Corbin. I can't have by backside hurt and my hands hurt at the same time, and I'm horrible at stiching leather. There are a few upholstery shops near me that do motorcycle seats, so my money needs to go to one of them first.

 

I sympathise. In my one hour spin on Saturday I had a numb bum from the xv750 single seat and aching wrists from the too straight flat(ish) bars. The bars are easy, I will get the propane torch on and add 5 degrees or so of in angle. The seat will need a gel pad and or new foam, might as well get it recovered with something better than black plastic - that will cost me...

 

Not a mechanical solution, but Voltaren works well for me with arthritis in my hands.

 

Thanks. I've been trying different things for years, and NSAID ointments do help. There are just some days where they don't help nearly enough.
I guess I should be thankful that the worst hand is on the throttle side and not the clutch side, or I'd have to fit an electric shifter ($$$).

 

Is CBD-oil an option?
THC free ofcourse.

 

It is, and hasn't helped. I won't go into the politics of what I'd prefer to use for pain management.
Most of the time my hands are around a 2, even just when resting (the right hand more often is a 4). Most riding puts them both at a 4, but the joy of riding is enough of a remedy that I keep on keeping on.
The day I started this thread asked about suggestions both hands were at a 6, and my left hand never used to get above a 4 during any normal activity. I'm used to dealing with the pain in the right hand (it's been over 20 years since the accident), but having both hurt that much at the same time was very concerning. I briefly thought about parking the bike and having my son bring the trailer to me.
The past two days of riding were great in terms of pain (aside from the stock seat, which is definately not all-day comfortable for me). I got out of the city as quickly as possible, and spent three hours each day enjoying the countryside.

I appreciate all of the suggestions and concern. This is a great community.

 

I'm not familiar with those numbers regarding the severity of pain or painlevels.
We've got thc-free or other to our disposal.
A big bummer for you but a big hooray for sticking to it.
Well.. it, riding bikes again, saved my sanity after not being able to ride for 3 years with muscle issues..

 

The last two pain scales mentioned in this blog are what my doctor uses, and what I refrenced.
https://lifewithmcc.com/2019/08/04/my-favorite-pain-scale/

 

how about something like this
https://www.progressiveautomations.com/products/mini-linear-actuator there's cheaper ones on amazon from china
didn't they have drag bike electric clutches that worked by moving the shifter? maybe they were pneumatic

 

That is a thought. Finding one that acts quickly enough when disengaging, and smoothly/slowly enough when engaging might be a challenge.
The drag shifters were pneumatic, and there are electric ones that use solenoids, but we're talking about money then. At some point I might have to go that route, but if I can keep it cheap and effective (and not lose clutch feel) then I'd be very pleased.

I was thinking about the route I took that day when this became a noticeable problem. My favorite hardware store around here (so far) is 7 miles away.
There are 19 stoplights between me and the store if I take surface streets.
I can cut that down to 10 if I take the expressway. And that expressway rarely has backups.

 

Is it possible to fit less powerful clutch springs without having clutch slip? No even if it was it's the repetitive use of the clutch lever that is exacerbating your hand pain. Daft idea I had there.

 

But it was an idea. All ideas are welcome. This is a brainstorming session, and if it weren't for the cost I would probably go straight for an electric shifter.
One of the requirements for my degree was to come up with 6 adaptive-technology solutons for students who have 1 or more disabilities. It was very interesting to see what my fellow pre-service teachers came up with in order to solve the same problem. So even though I think I know what I should do, I'm fully interested in hearing what others come up with.

 

I've been kicking around an idea for v6 or v8 trike for a while, and clutch operation was one of the issues that came to mind. Normal bike handlebar clutch lever would no way manage to shift enough fluid. So in my head I had a vacuum servo operated cylinder, with a pwm signal controlled from the lever varying the hydraulic pressure, and the clutch throw. Not something you could buy off the shelf, but maybe something that could be developed in the home workshop?
Of course you don't need to use a bulky vacuum servo, a hydraulic cylinder working on engine oil pressure should work?

 

Earlier today I thought about an Arduino controlled servo. Use a potentiometer on the clutch lever as the control, and have the board drive the servo. I think there may be enough room to have a servo fit below the #4 carb and use a reduction gear to get enough oomph to move the throwout arm. I wouldn't have feel, but there would be enough speed and good control over that speed.

I like simple, but projects are fun too.

 

you could still use the lever and the clutch switch to have a power assisted clutch.
would slipping a piece of 1/2 inch heater hose over the lever help

 

power door lock solenoid ?

 

This, along with a miniature hydraulic cylinder and some linkage.... clutch fully in, cylinder extends and "helps", albeit with no actual control. Let go the clutch, cylinder retracts, away you go. You can damp the movement so it doesn't do anything quickly, then some tuning.
Could use air as well I suppose, but where would you connect the pump? Use a DC electric one? Damn I could see that working...

 

I think we have a winner. It sounds relatively simple, and the parts count is low. Might even be able to keep it all electric with a small motor and limit switches.


I do want to try the Ezi Pull thhing first though. I gave up looking and bought another, they are cheap enough.

 

I wonder, just to be pedantic.
Since the lever to the fulcrum (on the clutch cover) is a certain length... how could you add to the length without increasing the pull on the lever.
I wonder how much that little spring adds to the overhead...

Mmmm, gears... oh okay this is actually going back to the addon from a previous idea in the thread.
Would be nice to keep the feel, if lighter, in the clutch though, is what I'm thinking.

I have the same issue sitting at a whole bunch of lights, so I understand completely about the urge to pop it into neutral.

It would be a hell of thing to increase the gearing inside the case to the pull bearing, somehow... maybe scifi at this point... hmm hmm... grinding, magnesium welding, gearing... ack.

The hydraulic question is pretty cool though, I wonder... at the wreckers... whether another Yamaha with hydraulic pull might have parts that are... okay I'll shutup now.

Oh, one thing that has helped me in the past with clutch fatigue.
As long as your battery and starter and everything else is good... hit the kill switch and then you just have to get ready to pull the clutch, hit the kill switch back to run and then the starter motor before the guy behind you runs up your backside.