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Acewell 2853 Install

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by Brandon Spencer, May 21, 2021.

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  1. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Hey everyone!

    Here is my short writeup on installing a new Acewell Speedometer/Tachometer onto my 82' XJ750R.

    IMG_0880.jpg IMG_0878.jpg

    New unit compared to my cheap eBay unit. Mainly replacing with this since the speed sensor totally crapped out on me and sometimes the unit would randomly shut off..

    Anyway, labeled all the wires from the stock harness again and set up the included harness's with new bullet connectors.

    IMG_0879.jpg IMG_0882.jpg

    Fairly simply wiring and now I even have a clock that stays on even with the key off.

    IMG_0885.jpg IMG_0886.jpg

    Settings:

    So these units have tons of settings for RPM, fuel gauge, speed etc. I ended up not using the magnet system and purchased the universal analog to digital speed adaptor. This plugs right into the harness for the unit then right into the OEM speed cable.

    Normally you would set the circumference to your tire size, for this bike that normally would be ~2081mm. Given this is now measuring off the gear hub I needed to do some trial and error to dial it wayyy down and match with a GPS.

    Circumference setting is at 695mm and its accurate within +/- 1 MPH. Good enough for me.

    Fuel tank sensor on these bikes are from 25-350 ohms. Not sure what the level is on this gauge is stock but you can change ohms settings in the menu. I set this to 250 ohms and it reads the tank fairly well. I may add in another 50 or 100 ohm resistor to make it more accurate. Next level on the gauge is 510 ohm which reads the tank full all the time.

    Tachometer is reading right from the grey wire from the TCI. Setting on the Acewell is 1r1P, which is 1 rotation of crank = 1 pulse. The reading was sporadic at first due to the "wasted" spark but adding the included 1M ohm resistor leveled the reading out to where the bars no longer are jumpy.

    Created a plug and play inline resistor:

    IMG_0887.jpg IMG_0888.jpg

    Ran all the new wires nicely inside the headlight bucket.

    IMG_0890.jpg

    I think the new unit is more streamline and overall looks really nice.

    IMG_0892.jpg IMG_0893.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

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  2. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    Great write up. Never knew they could run with a conventional speedometer cable. Does it have an oil light function?
     
  3. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    It does, though I think my oil level sensor is stuck as it's reading 0 ohms so the light stays on. Something to look into next oil change
     
  4. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    you may need to install the other low level sensor, the Atari bikes sensor and non-Atari sensor are opposite in the way they are triggered.
     
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  5. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    So another sensor of a non-Atari bike will do?
     
  6. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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  7. Rooster53

    Rooster53 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    The only reason to use the diode block would be to duplicate what Yamaha did, and that is to light the oil light when the starter button is depressed. I would say no need to do that and just connect it directly with the correct sensor - non Atari version that is normally open when safe.
     
  8. jayrodoh

    jayrodoh YimYam Premium Member

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    Yup, you can swap out the sensor with one from a non-atari bike or use a relay to "reverse" the function of the switch and enable the starer button oil light check. You can find 5 pin "Bosch" style relays at any auto/car stereo/Amazon type place. Good option if you do not want to deal with dropping exhaust to change out the oil level sensor.

    Wire colors in the drawing do not mean anything in relationship to the bike, random selection.

    Relay.png
     

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