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Barnyard Find 82 maxim 650 - Brakes question

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Btroppma, Jun 7, 2021.

  1. Btroppma

    Btroppma Member

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    Hi everyone,

    Today I acquired an 82 maxim 650 with 9000km on the clock! EXCITED!!
    All indications so far are that it is in fact unmolested after 40 years. Stock, even has the original toolkit. Garaged,covered and babied its whole life.

    It sat for most of the last 10 years and not started for at least two. Initial assessment is new battery and carb overhaul, and new tires.
    I noted that while petcock was in res position, it was dumping fuel from a hose I believe the airbox - a bad float valve seat I believe.

    I can take care of the items above, but I would like some opinions on the front brakes. The front brake is very soft and fluid is discolored. Brake lines and caliper look good.

    Question is: can the m/c be flushed and restored to service, or is it best to replace the assembly? I place a high value in being able to stop!

    Any other "resurrection" tips are welcome!
    Bob
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  2. Brent NZ

    Brent NZ Active Member

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    That is a beautiful bike, can't be too many around like that.
    Suggest you replace the hoses, they look original & will be well overdue for replacement. It would be a good idea to remove the caliper & check the pistons move freely, there's a chance the piston seals may have hardened. New fluid will probably transform the brakes. The master cylinder may not need any work however seals and rebuild kits are available if necessary.
     
  3. jayrodoh

    jayrodoh YimYam Premium Member

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    Man, that’s a nice bike. I restored one and it is a great bike to ride.

    You cannot just flush the MC, get a quality rebuild kit from Len and do it right. If the lines are original you really should change those out and rebuild the caliper too. The factory brake setup is more than adequate for the stock bike but it’s really important to make sure it’s up to the task.

    Do not replace it with some $17.96 Chinese master cylinder.

    Welcome to the best place for XJ knowledge and parts.
     
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  4. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    Nice looking bike!

    This is a good video that someone else posted on another thread, and it shows why you should (as Yamaha and other mfgs. recommend) rebuild your calipers and m/c every 4 years. Rubber seals under stressful conditions (brake fluid, heat, pressure) will deteriorate, losing their flexibility and rebound characteristics, and a whole lot of what makes your brakes perform well and safely is...........rubber "springiness":

    www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZTFS9TYf4I
     
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  5. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    Except the corrosion he points out is NOT on the piston. It’s in the upper corners of the seal. In the small corner gap that is there. No I’m not advocating leaving the corrosion there..... just pointing out that it’s not holding up the piston.
     
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  6. Dan Gardner

    Dan Gardner Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    That's a really nice looking example!

    I need to do the same thing to my XJ650J front brakes.
     
  7. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    True. I wonder if he did the same with an old seal if the piston wouldn't retract?
     
  8. Minimutly

    Minimutly Well-Known Member

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    I agree you should rebuild the whole braking system - every 4 years? Maybe if I was selling parts...
    I don't agree about the original brakes being adequate - they may have been for the rubber that was available on the road back then, but modern tyres have come a long way. And if it was adequate why did they fit twin discs to the seca?
    The flat bars on mine meant I needed a new m/c, I went with an RD half inch bore one - much better.
    That bike is remarkable in that it looks not to have been messed with - treat it well
     
  9. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    I fitted a Honda Pan European master cylinder. Works well. I saw a 900 Diversion with Yamaha's blue spot calipers on it. It's a pity they don't fit the XJ's.
     
  10. Btroppma

    Btroppma Member

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    Ok so here is my order of battle

    Parts are ordered (some I have on hand) to completely refresh the front brake system. I am going with rebuilt Mc and caliper from chacal.
    Also coming are clutch kit, petcock rebuild kit and tires. New battery on the charger already.

    While parts are in transit I am going to pull the carbs, rebuild them and get the bike running. I have a carb kit from chacal, ultrasonic cleaner carb dip and all the good guidance here.
    I will post my results!
     
  11. Carl LaFong

    Carl LaFong Member

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    Very nice machine, you were lucky to find it!
    last summer I picked up an 82 seca it had 41000km on it but just two owners stored for 11 years. Put on 600km last fall and today turned.another 800.
    Burns no oil. Increased pilot jets turns that took the bog out of excelleration. Stainless.brake.lines. Have done 3 oil changes last one this spring. Also valves adjusted and carb balance with vacuum bottles. New tires shinko put those on another bike liked them
    these are fun machines to ride, enjoy and keep it between the ditches!
     
  12. Minimutly

    Minimutly Well-Known Member

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    One thing to note with these long lay-up bikes - we all (well I did before I stripped one) that wet clutches are allways in oil - well of course they aren't, the oil is in the sump. So there is a good chance the plates are squeezed dry, and maybe a clutch rebuild is allways a good idea? Anyone have thoughts on this?
    My seca hadn't moved for 10 years plus, and even after breaking the clutch free it didn't sound or feel happy. A strip and clean was all it took to change this - with the caveat that the basket and centre was refitted well worn, but it still works.
    And no I didn't replace bolts or springs either. Note that I'm not recommending this, but I do feel capable of assessing the state of these bits.
     
  13. Btroppma

    Btroppma Member

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    Hi everyone,
    I'm draining fluids and have quickly come to the dreaded frozen float bowl screw x4 scenario.
    Based on past experience, I feel these will strip if I try to turn them. What is the general consensus on how best to proceed?
    Also, if forced to what's the best way to get gas out of float bowls when the screws are seized that doesn't involve getting gas all over myself.

    Thanks in advance

    Bob
     

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  14. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    bigfitz52 Has often reccomended a new clutch for a bike that has sat for a good while.
    I've been on the fence about that.
    It seems to me that if the clutch is of modern friction material (not cork) that it can be salvaged by turning it 180º and letting it soak for a few days in the sump oil (oil does wick into porous componenets, and the friction material is porous).
    My Seca is on the same clutch that I bought it with, and the PO had let it sit for three years with the clutch that he bought it with. The mileage is low enough that it could very well be the original clutch from '82.
     
  15. Minimutly

    Minimutly Well-Known Member

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    I don't see why you would need to replace the plates - a clean and maybe a soak for them would be fine I think.
     
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  16. Carl LaFong

    Carl LaFong Member

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    If it isn't broke don't fix it. My sec a after sitting for 11 years clutch just fine. Put 1400km on it since layup. Shifts smooth no slip finds neutral easy. Of course in the first 600km changed oil three times. Rotela 15/40.
     
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  17. Minimutly

    Minimutly Well-Known Member

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    Can't argue with that...
     
  18. cgutz

    cgutz Well-Known Member

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    Regarding bowl drain screws. My XJ550 had similar looking screws that hadn't been removed in years, and look semi stripped like yours. I used penetrating oil, let it soak for a few days, then was able to coax them out with flat head screwdriver and light tapping to break loose without further damage to the screw heads. I then replaced with hex versions from xj4ever.
     
  19. Door dude

    Door dude Active Member Premium Member

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    If you get the bowl drain screws out get a set of stainless allen head screws from len. I got them and very happy with them
     
  20. Btroppma

    Btroppma Member

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    Hello all,

    Carbs are out, and I am getting organized to disassemble. Remarkably clean for 40 years old. Screws all appear to be original I am first one in. The story seems to have unfolded a bit... the float needle on carb 2 failed and caused gas to dump out. The PO put the bike aside and forgot about it.

    I inverted the carb body over a drain pan to get the gas out, about 150ml, without getting it all over me (a first).

    Slides move, slide one is a bit gummy and slow to return.

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