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XJ750 Starter Clutch Replacement...

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by bike-man-man, Mar 7, 2006.

  1. adrian1

    adrian1 Active Member

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    Unlikely you'll see pictures he hasn't been around these parts for over 6 years.
     
  2. darkfibre

    darkfibre Member

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    damn you, I replied to an April fool bumped post.
     
  3. stevo32

    stevo32 Member

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  4. stevo32

    stevo32 Member

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    so this sticking a bolt in there and tightening it down is a load of b.s.!!! Just like i have come to expect from forums, just people telling you to buy assorted manuals and useless info that is pure crap.
     
  5. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    that's really all there is to it, wait till you get to the peened torx screws
     
  6. stevo32

    stevo32 Member

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    what the heck are those
     
  7. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    if this is a shaft drive, there's a set of bevel gears that drive the u-joint,
    under the first one there's 4 torx screws that are peened or staked so they don't come loose. you have to drill the dent out and use a impact driver loosen them.
    don't loose the shims when you take the u-joint shaft out
     
  8. LVSteve2011

    LVSteve2011 Member

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    Hi Stevo, the way the puller works is like this... the bolt has a long shaft that is not threaded all the way to the end, when you screw it in, the end of the bolt bottoms out inside the rotor shaft bolt hole, and as you apply more torque, the threads that screw into the rotor then force the rotor off the rotor shaft. And while our esteemed colleague Polock is correct in what he's written, it bares no relevance to this thread, for while the rotor shaft retainer plate is secured with TORX fasteners, they are not staked. TORX, for those who don't know is a special fastener that looks like a six pointed star and it needs a special TORX driver.
     
  9. 750E-II_29Rbloke

    750E-II_29Rbloke Active Member

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    Actually it does in a way, since those replacing their starter clutch WILL eventually be pulling the engine to split the cases to facilitate replacement in the only REAL way it can be done (Wizard's "bashing the roof in" method aside, not many people will want to split their cases quite so literally!), hence they will be likely making the most of the time to fully rebuild the motor as it's apart...
     
  10. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    Never mind then
     
  11. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    i don't make this stuff up
     

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  12. 750E-II_29Rbloke

    750E-II_29Rbloke Active Member

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    I don't recall anybody suggesting that you did? :?
     
  13. stevo32

    stevo32 Member

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    OK lets clarify one thing right now. My cases have been split(by me) now for nearly a month and i only had to remove two of those torx spits. And i didnt drill nothing out while doing so. Second nobody said thatthere was a an extra tool that went over the starter cluttch removal tool to keep the shaft from balloning out. So luckily after trying just a bolt and impact with no success dod i realize what could happen so i placed a big enough ball bearing in before i threaded the bolt in. And with 2 little zips of the impact everything came apart as it should.

    So that stupid primqary chain guide is in and the crank reconected with the pistons. NOW i have the left outer piston(1) all the way down to place the cams in the right spot(hopefully) to get teh timing sqaured away so i can ride this thing eventually. Oh and quick wuestion the cam chain guide the one with the metalspring like baking plate, does the top of tha metal plate slide into a lil slot some where or does the cam chain just put tension on the top?
     
  14. LVSteve2011

    LVSteve2011 Member

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    Hey Polock, to clear up a bit of confusion, WE are referring to the alternator shaft not the middle gear.
     
  15. retread83

    retread83 Member

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    So,is that 2006 post possible or B.S.?
     
  16. stevo32

    stevo32 Member

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    Yea pure B.S. i just removed that starter clutch the only way is to spli the cases. I mean u coukd remove the shaft without splitting the cases but that does no good cuz anything that would be broken would be inside still and no way to get it out. then it would falll down inside the block = alot of time wasted.
     
  17. nothinbutjets

    nothinbutjets New Member

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    how did you get tht charging mechanism out?should I just pry it out with some flatheads or what? dont want to break anything. I do see the three torques behind it. I want to try to do this repair the same way you did. Since the motor runs and the only other issue it seems to have engine wise besides the same start issue you had all those years ago is it wont stay running and idle down. but after i get the starter clutch issue f fixed, im gunna run some fresh oil thru the case with some sea foam and see if that will get things runnin smooth
     
  18. nothinbutjets

    nothinbutjets New Member

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    How did you get the charging mechanism out? Im at that point of the repair. And I can see the three torques behind it.
     
  19. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    It's not possible to replace the starter clutch on our engines without splitting the cases. I have seen the seal being replaced behind the alternator rotor in fact there is a thread on here about it. But if anyone is changing their starter clutch split the cases.
     
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  20. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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