Little pulling power and slight backfire?

Finished the carb rebuild and got them back on the bike. 2.5 turns out on the mixtures and float levels 17.5 +/- .5, synced the butterflies. Got a little nervous doing the butterflies as the throttle shaft was much tighter after getting the carbs back on the rack and didn’t want to snap shut like I thought they should. Loosed all the rack screws up and gave everything a little wiggle and then back tight while holding flat with a chunk of angle iron and a granite counter top scrap. Seemed good after that. Took forever to get it started the first time. Once it was running it took some fiddling with the idle screw to get it close. Short ride for gas and the idle was not right after warming up fiddled that a bit more and it was much better. Longer ride and it has good power and the hesitation from before is gone. Took long enough to get everything clean and rebuilt but since this was my first big project on this bike I’m happy with it. Will need some fine tuning but no need for that until I do a proper valve check. Many thanks @chacal for answering questions and the rest of you for helping as well. Next up for this bike will be fork seals, since there is some leakage down onto the front caliper which is not good. And while they are off might as well to the head bearings and front brake system too. Happy to be in the wind again.

 

Y-262 are the markings on the aftermarket versions of the Y-10 original needles.

 

Pulled the plugs today to see how they looked since cylinder 4 doesn’t seem to fire until warm or high rpm. Looks a bit lean all around. Swapped 3 and 4 and no change. Since valve check is up next I’m not going to mess with the mixtures yet.

 

Back again with a different issue but staying on the same thread for bike consistency. Been running good with the slight hesitation when cold and at low RPM, but overall good.

Current issue is what sounds like a engine rattle. I tried to "clean" the engine to see if it would resolve the starter clutch issue on a warm start that seems to be the norm. Using some possible fixes from the site here I put some Seafoam in the oil, like 4 ounces-ish, ran it a bit, probably about 30 minutes total, on the center stand and a short trip or two up the road. Changed the oil and filter with some generic Fram 20w50, didn't have the Rotela T4 where I went to get oil. What I read around about the Fram was no additives and it would be ok for the wet clutch even though it isn't specifically JASO rated. Didn't see any bits of metal or plastic in the dirty oil which I was happy about. After a few rides it now has what to me sounds like a vibration rattle when RPMs are fairly high. Checked exaughts for tightness and other bits as well while on the stand and taching it up a bit listening for and holding things to try and narrow it down. Clutch isn't slipping or I would blame it on the oil.

What kind of symptoms might be expected from non conforming oil? Hate to dump it again if its not the issue. Oil isn't that expensive but its not free either. Tried to make a video to show the noise but it wasn't really detectable in the audio over other engine/exhaust noise, may try a different method to capture the audio.

 

mobil delvac 1300 works good in these, diesel oil. but your oil is ok
cam chains can make noise, easy to adjust
3 feet of old garden hose, one end on your ear the other moves around till you find the noise
plugs are a little lean
adjust your valves

 

Don't think my 650J has adjustable cam chain tension? But yeah need to check the valves and work on the carbs a bit for better sync. I've seen people use a wooden dowel to find noise, old garden hose seems obvious but never though of it, thanks for the tip. Was. bit worried since this noise started after the oil change, and don't want to ruin it with non-conforming oil.

 

If strange noises started after an oil change, maybe the filter got installed incorrectly? That might lead to less oil pressure, less oil in the valvetrain and more noise??? Just an idea.

 

Very possible that I put the filter in backwards, I can never remember which way it goes. The filter I got had the O rings with it but they were not the correct thickness so I reused the old ones that were still in good shape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CNLIFQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details. Plan to check the valves this weekend and will check that too. Need to check the clutch too while I'm doing things. (because I haven't since I got the bike) so I might as well go ahead and get some new gaskets for the clutch cover. The list grows on...

 

If you did happen to install the filter incorrectly, you wouldn't be the first one to do so. Don't ask how I know. No shame here.

There are several reports of those o-rings included with the filters are trash, so it's not surprising.

I don't think they need to be changed that often anyway. Seems like they should last for several years without an issue. Also, they are not price prohibitive to get the "good" ones. @chacal at xj4ever.com can hook you up with OEM or an aftermarket option for those o-rings. In fact, those o-rings are are common enough that they are still in the Yamaha parts book, so if you get an itchy trigger finger you could check to see if your friendly neighborhood Yamaha dealer has them in stock. Still probably a lot easier and safer to get them from xj4ever and save yourself a trip to the dealer and possibly end up with the wrong thing.

For reference on xj4ever: http://xj4ever.com/catalog/e-1-gaskets-top-650.html

Since I know there have been some people out there - cough - who have installed the oil filter incorrectly, let me just post this for reference:


Parts #2 and #3 usually come with the filter. The flat side of the filter goes against the engine block, then the washer (#7) goes against that, then the spring (#8) pushes against the cover (#1).

In reverse order, as usually done when re-installing:
- Start with cover (#1) with bolt and relief valve assembly (#4) installed, the little o-ring (#5) provides the seal between the bolt and the cover.
- Then put on spring (#8)
- then the washer (#7)
- then the filter (#2,#3), with the concave side of the filter facing the washer/spring
- then the big o-ring (#6) goes around outside of oil cover (#1), to seal between cover and block
- install, should have the flat side of the filter being pushed against the block by the spring.

 

Or the easy way: Install the spin-on filter conversion kit.

 

you can hold on that for awhile, the best way to check the clutch is to ride it

 

Thanks for the image. I “think” that is the way it is but….. I’ll check. Chacal has had more than one order from me so that is where I get anything that I want to be right.

As for the clutch it probably needs adjustment more than anything. Shifts fine but clunks a bit maybe more since the oil change as well which made me question the oil. Sometimes when sitting at a light I think it’s in first but it’s actually in neutral but the neutral indicator doesn’t light till I let the clutch lever out and then crap I’m revving and no go, clunk it down again and go for real.

Since I’m gonna check the filter orientation I’ll probably go back to known good oil and see if anything changes.

 

The "concave" depression in the filter is where the spring goes. Most of the filters have a finely stamped "engine side" wording on them (some of the aftermarket ones do not).

 

Pulled the filter off and discovered that it was on backwards, concave to the engine. Also discovered after flipping it over and putting it back on....while typing this and looking at the diagram, there is no washer #7 in the diagram above. I changed the oil last year and figure there has not been one there for a while since it isn't now, probably wasn't then either.

 

OK, that's progress I suppose.

That washer is kind of a flimsy little thing - I think it is just there to prevent the spring from tearing up the rubber seal in the middle of the filter.

I did a quick look on xj4ever and couldn't find that specific washer in the catalog. Maybe @chacal could point us in the right direction. On the Yamaha parts fiche it is part # 90201-21608. It is used on a jillion bikes.

If I were you, I would order a new one. In the mean time just install it without the washer (so spring pushing on filter directly) or I would go up to my local hardware store and see if I can find a washer that is close enough. Disclaimer: you should never listen to my advice.

 

Correct!

HCP1493 OEM oil filter element compression spring SEAT PLATE WASHER, fits all XJ550, 1984-85 FJ600, 1986-88 FZ600, 1986-90 YX600 Radian, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and all XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F models, and XJ1100 models, each: