XJ700X work updates.

Work on the new acquisition.
Tank had lots of rust.


I first cleaned it via electrolysis.


Then used a couple gallons of phosphoric acid to finish the job.

 

Nice!

 

Took a preliminary look inside a carb bowl. Float needle is stuck, open I think.

 

That's a remarkable difference showing before and after.

I'd think about rebuilding the cap, including a new seal too.
I'm sure the little breather check ball in it is cruddy like the tank, and the springs get rusty.

Tony

 

Let me add, the carbs look pretty good on the outside like they were redone at some point.

Tony

 

Well done....

How long did the tank take to do?

Those carbs do look good for the age.

 

The carb rack has been off at some point because two bowls are in the wrong positions, facing the wrong directions. The caps are still over the pilot screws.

 

The electrolysis was around 11-12 hours. The acid soak about 18-19 hours.

 

The bike sat in PO garage since 2014, I think. He wasn't planning on storing it but never got around to riding again. That's the reason for rusty tank and gummed up carbs. They are exceptionally clean on the outside.

 

What's the best way to remove the float needle housing? It appears to be pressed in with maybe an o-ring seal and held in place with small clamp. None of the four will budge and I certainly don't want to deform this thing by gripping too hard.

 

Yes, the brass seats on Mikuni carbs use an o-ring, which can "seize" the seat to the carb body. If you don't plan o re-using the seats, just grab with vise-grips and twist it out. Otherwise, soak with penetrating oil for as long as it takes, maybe some heat around / on the aluminum body to get it to expand a bit.

 

I do plan on reusing the seats and all the jets once they are cleaned up. That is the dilemma, I don't want to deform them by gripping too hard.

 

Just drilled the caps off over the pilot screws. The screws don't want to turn very well so they are now soaking in Blaster.

 

I’d plan on get new assemblies

 

They have been under the caps so they’ll come out in cleanly— there’s no dirt in there. The PB will help, I’d just turn them back and forth a little bit first, the turn all the way in ( turn forward a ways then backup a bit then forward.... Etc.... allows the oil to work in better. Then turn out with the same procedure. Gentle but firm down pressure will help keep the screwdriver from jumping/stripping. Remember, the screws are spring loaded, and the o-ring is probably the sticking point.

dfox

 

And P.S. if you slightly scar (but not deform) the outer edge of the seat it makes no difference (besides visual.........).

 

+1
When I rebuild my carbs I used penetrating oil, heat, tried to rock them loose and ended up using brute force with vise-grips. Man those suckers can be stuck... Luckily I already had new ones lying around.

 

Got the carbs back together and had to ream two of the float needle seats so the needles would freely spin without getting stuck. Wrestled the rack into the bike Sat., what a job with an X! It started up ok. Sunday I synced the vacuum levels but without a colortune it is temporary, the levels were way off. Checked the compression and got 154 PSI in cyl. #1, 140 in #2, 132 in #3 and 130 in #4. Not what I was looking for. Took the bike for a little ride around the son's complex and wow, does it really wanna go! Takes right off at the touch of the throttle and hitting the gas at higher RPM's seemed to want to throw me off the bike. Definitely a different feel from the non-X. Battery only charges at 13.5 V at 3000 RPM. Lot's of small stuff to do but it is now time to get it registered.
Edit: I checked compression with engine cold. Will recheck with a warmed up engine later.

 

Huntchuks.... I TOLD you it would feel like that— remember I told you about “The X-Factor” when you Get into the power band.....and you laughed at that??? Well, now you have experienced “THE X-FACTOR”

 

Current bike configuration. Missing left horn and tank badges still need to be glued back on.



Tough getting used to the high aftermarket handlebars.