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Fz600 oil cooler on XJ550

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by Noahsxj, Oct 2, 2021.

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  1. Noahsxj

    Noahsxj Active Member

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    Hey y’all, I got bored again and was able to find some cool stuff.

    this should be a bolt-on mod right?

    there anything I should worry about?

    I plan on just stripping and polishing the covers and cleaning and rebuilding the cooler and hoses.
     

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  2. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    The FZ mounted the cooler slightly off centre so the hoses might not line up correctly.
    It might not be a worry, you’re gonna find out.
     
  3. lostboy

    lostboy Well-Known Member

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    If you have after market exhaust the elbows on the adapter may interfere with the fit. I got oil cooler from @Simmy and found that one oil line was too short. New oil lines with be needed or modified. A new cooler mount will need to be fabricated. Not a straight bolt on install. Include pictures of your install
     
  4. Noahsxj

    Noahsxj Active Member

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    Luckily I’ve got stock 4-2 exhaust. & I’ll be making my own mounts
    I’ll just be cleaning up stripping and polishing all these bits while I’m waiting for new o rings and oil filter

    I really wanted to do the screw on filter adapter with this mod but $100 more will have to wait
     
  5. Noahsxj

    Noahsxj Active Member

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    Almost there
     

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  6. Noahsxj

    Noahsxj Active Member

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  7. lostboy

    lostboy Well-Known Member

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    What paint did you use? Looking good
     
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  8. Noahsxj

    Noahsxj Active Member

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    actually “radiator paint” from autozone hahaha

    It’s probably just a generic high heat chemical resistant enamel.
     
  9. Noahsxj

    Noahsxj Active Member

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    Update here too, still need to get myself a 32mm socket for that humongous bolt in the oil filter housing to swap it out for the new adapter plate to hook up the cooler!

    as for mounting, I just zip tied it there temporarily until I can figure out exactly how everything will line up

    Does anyone know anything about priming these before use?
    Thanks! 2F3D0CE1-46D0-43D3-A8E6-4AFEFC0E9529.jpeg 8E8755FF-A676-4DA7-95C1-15349C9C21C1.jpeg C50EDA76-9A3B-4F20-8250-E50E146D92CF.jpeg 3ADE3E77-B3B5-4B04-97BA-E5F88C64D9DB.jpeg C2D95BE7-3FAC-4CA0-80ED-2721EEDD21FD.jpeg
     
  10. Fuller56

    Fuller56 Well-Known Member

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    Very nice looking setup. Question though, it sure looks like the clutch cable is going to have a problem lying against that header pipe. Oh, yeah, nice job on the Maxim tank.
     
  11. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    Looking good!

    NOTES on XJ550 clutch cables:

    Originally, both the XJ550 Maxim and XJ550 Seca models were equipped with clutch cables that were a bit too “short” and required precise routing and fitment to prevent two problems:

    a) by being too short, the clutch cable would put undue tension on the clutch pivot arm when the handlebars were turned to the left (and the further the turn, the more this issue became a problem).

    b) it also caused issues with routing the cables, as if it weren’t routed exactly per the service manual guidelines, then the long horizontal run of the cable……from the frame downtube straight over to the clutch throwout pivot arm bracket…….then the cable would tend to “droop” a bit and come into contact with the top of the engine case (right above the “YICS” crank-end round cover). This contact would degrade the lubricant and the inner wire housing, making the cable stiffen over time, and would eventually start melting away the black (visible) outer sheath, and cause even more problems.

    Here is a good review of these issues:

    http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/45140


    The Yamaha “solution” to this problem was to release a longer cable (about 1-1/2” longer than stock) for the XJ550 Maxim models, but they never did address the XJ550 Seca cable length problem (primarily because there is more “flexibility” In routing the XJ550 Seca cable; even though both the Maxim and Seca models use the same handlebars and frames/engines, the way in which the clutch cables are supposed to be routed are a bit different---due to gauge cluster design and also due to the use of the front fairing on the Seca models----and thus it was not deemed enough of a problem, I suppose, on the XJ550 Seca models):

    XJ550 Maxim cables are fitted from the hand lever, below the speedo housing, thru a clamp on the upper steering crown bracket pinch bolt, and then crosses in front of the steering stem bearing headpipe, travels down the front side of the right side frame down-tube, thru a clamp welded-on to the downtube (at about the level of the gas tank rubber mounting “pegs"), and is then band-tied to the down-tube about halfway down, passes thru a welded-on cable clamp on the down tube that is just above the upper engine mount bracket (on the frame tube), and then straight over to the clutch pivot arm, passing thru a stamped steel cable holder “clamp” that is secured to the clutch cover, just behind the oil filler “thumb screw” plug. If either of the welded-on cable clamps on the down tube is “drooping” or a bit too low, or if the cable holder clamp on the top of the clutch cover (HCP19902) is missing or bent, the cable will tend to sag and rest on top of the crankcase (above the YICS cover) instead of clearing it on its horizontal path to the clutch pivot arm bracket……


    Questions:

    Do the cooler lower mounting holes line up with the holes in frame crossbar?

    Are those the FJ600 cooler lines?

    Did you have to "straighten out" the tacho drive cable to get it to clear?
     
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  12. Noahsxj

    Noahsxj Active Member

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    I was going to look into the clutch cable this winter!
    Thank you for that, it will help a ton
    As for the length, It’s a motion pro brand cable so I wonder if they went with the longer or shorter option..

    The lower cooler mount holes do line up, but it puts the cooler quite a bit higher so the hoses won’t reach the adapter plate.. also the forks hit the cooler when fully turned when it’s mounted that high,

    the hoses are from the same fj600,

    & I did not have to make any adjustments to the tach cable!

    I will most likely be fabbing up a permanent mount for this cooler, which I will be updating hopefully soon in the future.

    Unfortunately I can’t use a hose mount
    The hose mount uses the 2 bolt threads that extend downwards out of the head, Next to the exhaust ports, but on my 550 maxim motor, theres not nearly enough threads to mount anything to.
     
  13. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    The hose clamp is supposed to be installed under the nuts; it's just thin sheetmetal, maybe 1mm thick, so there is enough thread length when mounted in the original manner.

    Keep us posted. Lowering the cooler (to gain fork clearance) will make the hoses splay out, perhaps too much?
     
  14. Noahsxj

    Noahsxj Active Member

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    I’ll have to find one and mount it up then!

    & the hoses are actually too short when the cooler is mounted to the frame holes, so moving it down would make them reach! & hopefully clear the forks, I think I’ll mess with it today a bit..
     
  15. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    I would also get different brake hose, or at least reposition the top banjo at the mastercylinder.. That’s a pretty sharp bend..... it’s a kink waiting to happen
     
  16. Noahsxj

    Noahsxj Active Member

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    Alrighty so the oil cooler, hoses, adapter plate, oil filter, housing, etc all in place and hooked up besides some permanent oil cooler mounts.

    the placement is almost perfect, it misses the forks by about 1/4 inch when they are fully turned.

    but the mounting holes on the frame are about 1 inch higher then the holes on the cooler, so I’ll have to fab some mounts

    if I wanted to use the frame mounting holes, I suppose I could use longer hoses, but I’m not sure where to start with swapping hose fittings and what-not

    what do you guys think?
    Also, I’m talking about the oil cooler associated parts, not my brake lines or clutch cable :) FBBABFE2-736E-4C67-BF26-D76343F025D9.jpeg E906F2F7-5EAE-4270-8B74-F6FF98554F38.jpeg 3DDEFBCA-DAFC-4BC2-A317-93E9DE8947E7.jpeg 83D35EFD-CD93-413C-BFEA-82EFA26B8321.jpeg 779A9553-464F-4880-B40E-4E176D59A66A.jpeg 5AC63187-D3C6-4226-B9C6-DFBCC18C4670.jpeg 0AB401D6-E79A-49DA-8AB1-6E8D87C0756C.jpeg 7E516B92-FCBA-498C-8092-3A63677F20C9.jpeg CEBB137A-91A1-4287-99D2-E8F6501D3F76.jpeg
     
  17. Scott I

    Scott I Member

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    I was in the same boat and posted this back in August:

    The FZ600 oil cooler assembly hose lengths are too short for where the cooler is mounted on the xj750. The hoses have crimped collars making them more difficult to remove. I had a local auto store that advertises custom hydraulic hose assemblies look at it and they did not feel they could replicate the custom steel parts and did not want to retrieve them from the assembly I brought in for fear of damaging. Young guys had no suggestions. Guy my age said, " take a whizzer and a vice and you can get those collars off." I went home, got out my whizzer (angle grinder), cut them in half being careful about depth, and used the vice to crush them off. Only slightly damaged the first custom steel piece while getting the hang of it. Was able to solder and file the damage. Now to increase the hose length by approximately 3" and done.
     
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