STARTER RELAY OR BUTTON ISSUE?

I have an 82 XJ750J which has been giving me problems when I push the starter button. I have to wiggle it around while depressed to get the bike to fire up.
Thinking it was the button, I pulled it apart and cleaned the contact points, put it back together and it just wouldn't work at all except I heard a small clicking noise which is coming from the (round) relay, just aft of the battery.
Now I'm thinking the relay solenoid is the issue. I found some on EBay for about $11.00 new (w/shipping). I Don't think it's OEM (Paul Eagle brand?), but for 11.00 might not hurt to replace it.
If anyone has encountered this issue, any comments are appreciated.
Thanks

 

Try the following.

Battery voltage check.
Make sure handlebar is clean where the switch contacts it. Your starter switch grounds to the handlebar.
Fuse box, is it original you are better with blade type fuse box. Original ones the clips break.
Bridge solenoid with a screwdriver to see if engine turns over with ignition switch on.

 

Thanks for the reply. I'll try bridging the solenoid first. I did wipe down the handlebar under the switch but maybe not enough.
Everything is original and very clean.
No probs w/fusebox but good info. I do get a tail light warning sometimes but it goes away after a little while.
The battery was at 11.98v and had not been riden for a couple weeks and trying to start it drained it a little more so I trickle charged it but no diff.
I've had the bike for 25 years with hardly any problems.

 

The battery needs tested under load. Try a car battery and jump leads with the car engine not running. You need 10 volts minimum when the engine is cranking on the starter to get sparks at the plugs. I know your bike starter is not spinning but it might with the car battery. Also check the voltage at the two pin plug going to the solenoid with a multimeter. Good luck. Might be voltage drop caused by a wire at the switch. Wiggling the wire then it starts is a red flag. Might be a damaged wire.

 

So, I shorted the solenoid and it cranks engine every time. Took off starter switch and sandpapered handlebar contact area. No diff there. Pulled tank and checked for insulation/wire damage. No obvious damage there. Hooked up car bat w/engine off), and no diff.
I did pull starter switch apart again...looks good. (actually shiny-no rust at all) When I depress the starter button , and wiggle the button (not wire), a bit, it will crank engine. If I push starter button in and let go slowly it will catch sometimes about half way out. Tried wiggling wires w/button depressed to see if any change but no diff. I'm leaning towards a bad start switch even though it looks ok. Springs for contacts have good tension/pressure, contacts are clean with only slight scoring. Wires, connectors and soldering look fine from switch to solenoid.
Battery also has full charge and turns engine over easily...when it works.
I'm actually thinking of either getting another starter switch somewhere or tapping into the two wires that close the circuit and putting in an alternate start button which is far better than pulling out the rest of my hair. Ebay has a couple starter switches but they look pretty bad. (One looked like it was half melted in a fire)
Mine looks like new inside and out. I tried to load a couple pics but got an error message.

 

Yup must be the switch. One of the members here might have a spare or you can fit another switch as you stated.

 

What exactly do you mean by bridging the solenoid? If you short across the terminal lugs you will not test the solenoid that will simply bypass the solenoid to test the starter. If you activate the solenoid with 12 volts to the small terminal that will actually test the solenoid. If it clicks but does not crank the engine then the magnet may be working but the connection is not being made. After many years of use the contact bar inside can arc enough to stop the connection from being made.

 

Thanks Jeff, This problem has been getting worse over a long time and has finally hit critical mass. The old addage, "Don't fix it unless it's broke" may not have been the best approach. Kind of like putting off going to the dentist.
When I push the start button (now), I usually get a clicking in the relay but no cranking. After 39 years I wouldn't be suprised if the connections in the relay have worn down which would fit the slow degradation profile. For 11.00 bucks I don't mind replacing the solenoid.
As you hopefully can see from the pic of the starter switch housing, it looks like new.
After thinking about it, I won't be putting in an alternate start switch since I can't disable the 'run position' (button not depressed) circuit and would need to push two buttons to start it - if that makes sense.

 

Replace the starter solenoid!!! I had same issue my starter solenoid had corrosion inside housing , these are cheap in fact ordered two so I have a spare.

 

Thanks Jetfixer, Just ordered it.

 

Ditto. The p.o. Replaced the starter button. Did not fix issue, when I got the Bike replaced solenoid problem solved. Good luck.

 

Thanks to everyone for all the helpful comments and experience. My hair is starting to grow back already.
I will update when I have the 'thing' running again.

 

Pretty classic symptoms of a starter solenoid that failed. They get pitted/burnt up inside and eventually will not close the circuit even though the relay coil is pulling in. While you have it out to replace, make sure your connections are clean at the battery, solenoid, and starter lug to ensure a good connection. Poor connections will heat up.

FYI I've bought some cheap solenoids in the past that failed pretty quickly, not sure what you bought but in case that happens to you don't go pulling your hair out thinking you have another issue. Unfortunately Amazon and eBay are flooded with all sorts of cheap parts.

 

Thanks Jayrodoh, Once I get it running I'll take apart the old one to see what's up. All the connections are clean.
I probably got a cheap one just due to the price. Do you have a preferred source for a quality one?

TIA

 

What Jayrodoh says. If you hear a clicking noise when pushing the starter button, it's solenoid noise, and the starter button is ok. If jumpering the two thick wires at the solenoid starts the bike, the battery is ok and you have a bad solenoid.

 

Thanks to everyone who helped with comments and experience. Just got new solenoid. Just got it installed. Works every time.
New solenoid is about half the weight of the original. Maybe high tech or just cheap? For now, I'm happy to have it working.

 

So I disassembled the original solenoid. This is a one way job. You can see it's clean but the contact points are kinda worn.
Thought I'd add a couple pics of bike too.

 

I guess that is just worn enough to cause problems.

Nice looking bike though! The seat looks extra luxurious.

 

Thanks Dan, Yeah, that's the original seat and that luxurious seat has some luxurious duct tape on the King part of it. Gorilla tape actually. The good stuff! The cheap stuff tends to slide in hot weather and stick to my butt.

The day I got it running it was in the mid 60's. Today I woke up to 27F. Tonite it's going into the teens. Guess you're used to those temps up there.

Soon I'll be replacing the front tire and bleeding the front brake. I can actually squeeze the front brake lever all the way down without going over the handlebars. A friend said I should take off the caliper and hold it up high to bleed cause bubbles have trouble going down hill. Nothing worse than bubble trouble. Can't bleed it fast enough.

Then I'll pull the carbs off to change out the leaking boots to engine. I actually put my hand over the air box when running and nothing happened. It should have sucked my hand through the engine and spit it out the tailpipe. That's probably why it has trouble holding idle. If I get real crazy I just might try to fix the speedometer gears in the dash. Haven't had a speedometer in 25 years. I just pull up next to cars on the highway and look at theirs.